A SALAD DOES NOT HAVE TO BE JUST GREENS AND A DRESSING! THIN, SPINACH-FILLED EGG CREPES; A CHILLED TERRINE OF RICOTTA AND PARMESAN; FRITTATAS; GRAIN SALADS; AND THOSE SPICY CHICKPEA BALLS KNOWN AS FALAFEL FIND THEIR WAY INTO MY REPERTOIRE. FOR SOME EATERS, THESE ITEMS MAY NOT FALL IN THE CATEGORY OF SALADS, BUT IN MY HOUSE, I LIKE A LOT OF DIFFERENT LITTLE ITEMS ON A PLATE, AND OFTEN A SIMPLE TOSSED GREEN SALAD LIKES TO HAVE SOME FRIENDS AROUND.
EGG CREPES WITH MUSHROOMS AND SPINACH
RICOTTA, PARMESAN, AND LEMON ZEST TERRINE
ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM FRITTATA WITH GOAT CHEESE AND MINT
CRISPY, SPICY CHICKPEA BALLS: FALAFEL
EGG CREPES WITH MUSHROOMS AND SPINACH
Accompanied by a fresh and lively green salad, these ultra-thin egg crepes make a perfect lunch. The egg crepe is quite simply a light envelope for whatever you want to put inside. Here I suggest mushrooms and spinach, but one could also dig into the pantry or refrigerator for all manner of herbs, vegetables, and cheese on hand.
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 large mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and thinly sliced
Fine sea salt
8 ounces fresh spinach, stemmed and chopped
Freshly grated nutmeg
2 ultra-fresh large eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs (such as parsley, thyme, mint, and/or basil)
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
Several handfuls of salad greens, tossed with dressing of choice
1. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon of the oil over moderate heat. Add the mushrooms, season lightly with salt, and cook just until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the mushrooms to a sieve to drain. Add the spinach and 2 tablespoons of water to the skillet. Cover and cook until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the spinach and season with salt and freshly grated nutmeg.
2. Crack each egg into a small bowl. Lightly beat each egg with a fork (not a whisk), just enough to combine the yolk and the white well without incorporating any air bubbles, which might make the crepe dry out. Add 1 tablespoon of water to each bowl.
3. Warm the crepe pan for a few seconds over high heat. Add ½ teaspoon of the remaining oil and swirl to evenly coat the pan. Add 1 beaten egg, tilting the pan from side to side to evenly coat the bottom. Cook just until the egg is evenly set but still slightly liquid on top, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. Quickly spoon half the spinach, then half the mushrooms, herbs, and cheese in the center of the egg crepe to form a strip parallel to the pan’s handle. With a fork, carefully fold the crepe over the filling from each side. Tip the pan up against the edge of a warmed plate so that the crepe rolls out browned side up. Season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make a second filled crepe. Serve immediately, with a green salad alongside.
VARIATIONS: Wilted Swiss chard and feta; wilted lamb’s lettuce and ricotta; salsa, cubed avocado, and grated cheese; morels in truffle cream with chives.
WINE SUGGESTION: Our winemaker, Yves Gras, makes one of the “best dry whites of the Southern Rhône,” or so says wine expert Robert Parker. We agree, for his Sablet Blanc Le Fournas is crisp, chalky, elegant, and made for everyday drinking—perfect with this simple but sublime egg crepe.
RICOTTA, PARMESAN, AND LEMON ZEST TERRINE
This is a fabulous cheese-based terrine to have on hand anytime. A delicate mixture of fresh ricotta cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and eggs with a touch of lemon zest, it is a golden treasure. Serve it with a fresh tomato sauce and a tossed green salad and you have a marvelous meal. As garnish, you might add toast rounds, seared baby peppers, and roasted tomato halves topped with a basic puree. I like to call this a summer house recipe: you know, you rent a summer house with a plan to cook, but there is hardly a pot or a pan to be found. For this you need only bare-bones basics: a bowl, a fork, a loaf pan, a roasting pan, and an oven!
Vegetable oil for oiling the pan
1 pound buffalo-milk ricotta cheese
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
Grated zest of 2 lemons, preferably organic
Fresh Tomato Sauce (see Fresh Tomato Sauce)
Several handfuls of salad greens, tossed with dressing of choice
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Lightly brush the loaf pan with oil. Set aside.
3. In a large bowl, mash the ricotta and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses with a fork to blend. Add the eggs and lemon zest, and continue mashing until the eggs have been evenly incorporated. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan.
4. Fill a roasting pan with 1 inch of hot water and place the loaf pan in the water bath. Place the roasting pan in the oven and bake until the terrine is puffed, firm, and lightly browned, about 45 minutes. The water should just simmer gently; check it halfway through the cooking time and if necessary, add some hot water.
5. Remove the roasting pan from the oven and place the loaf pan on a wire rack. Let the terrine cool at for least 25 minutes before turning it out onto a rectangular cake plate. Serve the terrine chilled or at room temperature, cut into thin slices, with the tomato sauce and the green salad. (Store the terrine, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)
WINE SUGGESTION: A chilled white, such as the offering from the Perrin brothers from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their Perrin et Fils Côtes-du-Rhône Réserve Blanc is super-crisp, a blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne, with citrus-like overtones and good acidity, perfect for this soothing terrine.
I eat yogurt is some form almost every day, and have come to rely on a battery of different yogurt cheeses to fulfill my lifelong passion for anything with a sharp, lactic tang. There is no secret or technique here: all you need is a good-quality, flavorful yogurt (I use only organic nonfat sheep’s milk yogurt) and a cheese strainer, a piece of cheesecloth, or a reusable plastic mesh coffee filter. I make mine in antique French molds used for making goat cheese, but any mold with uniform holes can be used. The traditional heart-shaped porcelain molds used for making coeur à la crème work well. In France, soft cheeses are sold in perforated molds called faisselles , and the firm plastic strainers can be reused. Short of a mold, the yogurt can be poured into a colander lined with several thicknesses of cheesecloth, though I find this method a bit messy. Sometimes I simply pour goat or sheep’s milk yogurt or kefir into the strainer with no seasoning. For more forward flavors, I mix to taste a touch of salt, chopped fresh garlic, minced summer savory, minced rosemary, or finely chopped chives. Within 12 hours, you have a soft and supple cheese that can be used as a dip or a spread or rolled into little balls and drizzled with olive oil. In short, any way you would usually use a fresh cheese.
8 ounces plain nonfat yogurt
Fine sea salt, freshly minced garlic, summer savory, rosemary, chives (all optional)
1. Pour the yogurt—seasoned or not—into a strainer, a mold, or a colander lined with cheesecloth. Place the mold or colander in a container that will receive the liquid that drips. Cover with plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator and drain for 12 to 24 hours.
2. Remove the cheese from the mold and taste for seasoning. Transfer to a bowl or roll into balls as appetizers. (I drink the liquid, or whey, that drains from the cheese, or use it in soups or breads.) Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM FRITTATA WITH GOAT CHEESE AND MINT
When zucchini and squash blossoms appear in my garden, I gather them just before lunch and quickly prepare this easy dish to serve with a simply dressed green salad, also from the garden. It is great to add to a Provençal salad buffet, which might include Socca (see Chickpea Flour Crepes: Socca), Picholine Olives with Toasted Cumin and Paprika (see Picholine Olives with Toasted Cumin and Paprika), and Black Olive Tapenade with Lemon Confit (see Black Olive Tapenade with Lemon Confit).
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced
Fine sea salt
12 zucchini blossoms, rinsed
7 ounces mild, soft goat’s milk cheese (or imported Greek feta cheese), cubed
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
6 ultra-fresh large eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, cut into a chiffonade
Lemon wedges, for garnish
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. In a small skillet, combine the oil, onion, and salt, and sweat—cook, covered, over low heat until soft and translucent—for about 3 minutes. Transfer the onions to the baking dish. Arrange the zucchini blossoms like spokes on a wheel on top of the onions. Sprinkle with the goat cheese or feta and the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Pour the eggs over all.
3. Place in the center of the oven and bake until the eggs are firm and the top is golden, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven. Sprinkle with the mint chiffonade and serve with lemon wedges.
WINE SUGGESTION: This purely Provençal garden recipe deserves a local companion: I vote for the Lirac Blanc from the Domaine de la Mordorée, a domaine we have loved for decades. Their white Lirac is a complex and flattering blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Picpoul, and Clairette.
CRISPY, SPICY CHICKPEA BALLS: FALAFEL
I like to use this delicious vegetarian salad to encourage my students to get over the fear of frying. Few people understand that when you deep-fry properly and judiciously at the correct temperature, ingredients absorb almost no oil at all. This recipe is proof: once you’ve cooked these crispy, spicy morsels, pour the used oil back in the bottle to see how little has been absorbed—usually just a few teaspoons for this recipe. I like to serve these with Tahini-Lemon-Yogurt Dressing and Dipping Sauce, Chickpea and Sesame Dip, and a quickly tossed salad of green and red baby pepper slices, tomatoes, and parsley.
1¼ cups (7 ounces) dried chickpeas, rinsed
2 plump, moist garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed, and minced
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup minced fresh cilantro
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
1½ teaspoons toasted cumin seeds, ground
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
1 recipe Tahini-Lemon-Yogurt Dressing and Dipping Sauce (see Tahini-Lemon-Yogurt Dressing and Dipping Sauce)
1 recipe Chickpea and Sesame Dip: Hummus (see Chickpea and Sesame Dip: Hummus)
Salad
4 ripe heirloom tomatoes, rinsed, cored, and quartered
Several baby peppers, sliced
¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
Lemon and Olive Oil Dressing (see Lemon and Olive Oil Dressing)
1. At least 12 hours and up to 24 hours before preparing the falafel, soak the chickpeas at room temperature in cold water to cover by 2 inches.
2. Drain the chickpeas and discard the water. In a food processor or a blender, combine the drained chickpeas, garlic, onion, cilantro, salt, cumin, coriander, black pepper, and cayenne. Puree as smooth as possible, about 2 minutes. With your hands, carefully form the mixture into sixteen 1-inch balls. (This can be done several hours in advance. Leave them uncovered at room temperature to dry out a bit.)
3. Pour the oil into a deep-fat fryer; the oil should be at least 2 inches deep. Place a wire skimmer into the oil, so that when you lift the falafel from the oil, they will not stick to the skimmer. Heat the oil to 375°F.
4. Gently drop the chickpea balls, a few at a time, into the hot oil and fry until firm and golden brown, about 3 minutes. (There is no need to turn them in the oil.) Remove from the oil with the skimmer, and drain on paper towels. Repeat for the remaining falafel.
5. Make the salad: Combine the tomatoes, peppers, and parsley in a salad bowl. Toss with just enough Lemon and Olive Oil Dressing to lightly and evenly coat the ingredients.
6. Arrange the falafel on a large plate and pierce each with a large toothpick for dipping into a bowl of Tahini-Lemon-Yogurt Dressing and Dipping Sauce. Serve with the salad and a bowl of Chickpea and Sesame Dip as an accompaniment.
WINE SUGGESTION: I would go with a rosé here, preferably a Tavel from Domaine de la Mordorée, a wine that is complex without being the least bit pretentious.
PENNE SALAD WITH TUNA AND SPICY MUSTARD
One sunny summer day my husband, Walter, and I visited good friends in the seaside village of Marseillan in the Languedoc. Former restaurateurs Alain Dumergue, Claude Udron, and Philippe Marquet were our hosts, and Claude prepared this quick, simple, and delicious pasta salad.
¼ cup coarse sea salt
1 pound Italian penne pasta
Two 6½-ounce jars best-quality tuna in oil
1 tablespoon French Espelette pepper mustard (or other coarse-grain mustard)
1. Fill the pasta pot with 8 quarts of water and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and the pasta, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender but still firm to the bite, about 11 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, set the strainer over a medium bowl. Pour the tuna into the strainer, reserving the tuna and the oil separately. Break up the tuna pieces. Transfer the oil to a large skillet, and add the mustard to it.
3. Gently warm the oil and mustard.
4. When the pasta is cooked, remove the pot from the heat. Remove the colander and drain the pasta over the sink, shaking the colander to remove the excess water. Immediately transfer the drained pasta to the skillet containing the oil and mustard. Toss to evenly coat the pasta. Add the tuna and toss once more. Taste for seasoning. Serve in shallow soup bowls. This dish can be served at room temperature if desired.
QUINOA SALAD WITH SPINACH, PARSLEY, AND SPRING ONIONS
This is perhaps my favorite grain salad, one that I can enjoy day after day. I often make up a batch and serve it for lunch or as an afternoon snack.
1½ cups quinoa
3 cups Homemade Vegetable Stock (see Homemade Vegetable Stock), Homemade Chicken Stock (see Homemade Chicken Stock), or water
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 bunch fresh parsley, leaves only (2 cups loosely packed)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 small spring onions or scallions, white part only, trimmed, peeled, and cut into very thin rings
5 ounces fresh spinach, stemmed, cut into a chiffonade (4 cups loosely packed)
Creamy Lemon-Chive Dressing (see Creamy Lemon-Chive Dressing)
1. In a large, dry, nonstick skillet, toast the quinoa over medium heat, stirring regularly, until it crackles and becomes aromatic, 3 to 5 minutes. Place the quinoa in a sieve and rinse under cold running water to remove the grain’s coating, which can be bitter.
2. In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a boil over high heat. Add the quinoa, bay leaves, and salt. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent the quinoa from sticking to the pan. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaves.
3. Meanwhile, in a food processor or a blender, combine the lemon juice, parsley leaves, and olive oil and process until the parsley is finely chopped.
4. Toss the vinaigrette with the quinoa and the spring onions. (Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.)
5. At serving time, toss the spinach chiffonnade with just enough Creamy Lemon-Chive Dressing to lightly and evenly coat the greens. Add the quinoa and toss gently. Serve.
NOTE: Some brands of quinoa are already rinsed. Read the package directions.
WINE SUGGESTION: For no reason at all, this salad reminds me of Alsace, so I enjoy it with a light, dry, young Alsatian white, such as the offering from the house of Hugel, their Pinot Blanc Cuvée les Amours.