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Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Emily Brackstone, Ed Carlisle, David Carr, Paymon Daneshpay, Carlotta Fabian, Mick Groucott, Anne Gunn, Yael & Gil Hartman, Fredrik Janson, Colin Kenning, Rikke Palm, Emilia Pawłowska, Kelly Pickerill, Jim Pincini, Nina Plumbe, Derek Rosen, David Ryder, Cornelius Schröder, Anfrew Seitz, Maddy Smith, Elgin Tay, Rachel Wheeler
Heartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips, Mary Fitzpatrick and Peter Ndirangu, three wise companions of the Africa road of long-standing. Thanks also to Stuart Butler, Kate Thomas, Luke Hunter, Philipp Henschel, Thomas Temple, George Muriuki, Leela Hazzah, Stephanie Dolrenry, Kamunu Saitoti, Eric ole Kesoi, Richard Bonham, Rosie Kempson, Alex Walters, Nadia Walford, Lucy Cameron (Lewa Safari Camp), Wanjiku Kinuthia (Lewa Wildlife Conservancy), Annick Mitchell (Ol Pejeta), Daryll Pleasants (Ol Pejeta), Luca Belpietro (Campi y Kanzi), Jens Kozany (Segera Retreat), Tamsin Corcoran (Mbulia Conservancy), Katito Sayialel (Amboseli), Dr Cynthia Moss (Amboseli), Sandy Evans, (Manyara Ranch Conservancy), Ingela Jansson (Ngorongoro Lion Project), Daniel Rosengren and Craig Packer (Serengeti Lion project). To Marina, Carlota and Valentina – next time with you.
First and foremost I must thank my wife, Heather, and children Jake and Grace for once again putting up with my absence for too long while I worked on this book. It is ever appreciated. In Rwanda and Burundi I would like to thank Sarah Hall at Akagera National Park and Daniel Niyonsaba at Nyungwe Forest National Park. At the RDB office in Kigali huge thanks to Isaac Niyoyita and Norbert. At Volcanoes National Park big thanks to Prosper Uwingeli and the fine folk of the Iby’lwacu Cultural Village for the good times. Finally thank you to Jean-Paul Birasa and, for great driving and company, Damas.
My gratitude goes in particular to Matt Phillips and Anthony Ham for their insights, wise perspectives, patience and assistance with this project, and with many others. Thank you also to the inimitable J4 in Dar es Salaam, to the outstanding Mtemere entry gate rangers at Selous Game Reserve and – most of all – to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for the companionship, love and humour on this and all our journeys.
Thanks first up to Matt Phillips for giving me the amazing opportunity to work again on Uganda – seriously a dream gig. Anne-Marie Weeden, for taking the time and effort to help out with incredibly useful tips, contacts and hilarious anecdotes. The guys from UWA for their assistance, info and efforts in maintaining the parks, as well as John Mugisha in Mgahinga for letting me interview him. Plus Benson, Hassan and Noor for getting me around in one piece. Lance Goettsch for his help in Masaka, and to all those I met on the road and shared a beer with along the journey. But as always my biggest thanks goes to my beautiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends whom all I miss back home in Melbourne.
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Cover photograph: Bull elephant, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania; Nigel Pavitt/AWL
This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s East Africa guidebook was researched and written by Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler, Mary Fitzpatrick and Trent Holden. The previous edition was written by Mary Fitzpatrick, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden and Dean Starnes. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Matt Phillips
Product Editors Briohny Hooper, Martine Power
Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison
Book Designer Wibowo Rusli
Assisting Editors Melanie Dankel, Kate Evans, Samantha Forge, Andi Jones, Jodie Martire, Kate Mathews, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon Williamson
Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, David Kemp, James Leversha
Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Elin Berglund, Kate Chapman, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Clara Monitto, Katie O’Connell, Samantha Tyson, Diana Saengkham, Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, Luna Soo, Amanda Williamson