Photo: Saltstraumen |
Photo: Saltstraumen |
HIGHLIGHTS | BODØ | NARVIKThe narrowest piece of Norway is located in the fylke Nordland – it is a mere 6 km (3¾ mi) from the end of the Tysfjord to the Swedish border.
Only two roads make their way northwards: one, through a densely forested valley and the other, with the help of numerous ferries, along the coast. If you take the main road to the north, the E6, you will need almost an entire day to drive from the southern border of Nordland to Narvik. So just pull over to the right and let this region – already arctic in character – charm you with all that it has to offer: nature galore.
Nordland is the homeland of Knut Hamsun; this is where the poet and Nobel Prize laureate created and settled many of the characters in his books. They live from fishing and love their Nordland, cheerful stories and crude jokes. The Nordlanders are always full of respect when they talk about the weather and do not let themselves be put down by the whims of nature or by the high and mighty. It will also not take you very long to find out just how warm-hearted the people here can be.
Although Nordland is small, it is big enough for many a holiday and a trip with the Hurtigruten ships along the coast of Helgeland is the beginning of an intense relationship for many. Alpine lakes lie hidden behind the boulders of the eastern Satfjell Mountains and there are massive glaciers with gigantic grottos beneath them – some even accessible (www.nordlandsnaturen.no). Knut Hamsun’s country is the north of the fylke between Bodø and Narvik: a paradise on the coast. Offshore lie the Lofoten Islands – they are so unique that there is a special chapter devoted to them in this guide.
People who visit a Nordland island far out at sea are always given a warm welcome and can take an active part in the daily lives of the fishermen and fish farmers.
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Ancient coastal traditions are coming back to life on the peninsula to the north of Bodø |
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Unbelievable power: the fastest tidal river in Norway is a terrifyingly beautiful natural phenomenon |
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North Norway’s largest glacier reaches down to the sea, protects the hinterland from storms and conceals many secrets within it |
Road Atlas [136 B4] | Google Map
Only the 800 m (2600 ft) high rugged peaks on Landego Island off the coast provide a little protection from the icy storms from the north west.
Bodø received its town charter in 1860 but the German attack on 27 May 1940 destroyed the entire built-up area. That is why, today, many visitors think Bodø seems rather boring; there are not many buildings or residential areas worth seeing. But the people living in Bodø make up for that: when you take a stroll over the Moloveien on the seashore you will soon recognise that the Bodøværinger are warm-hearted and open-minded – their good humour typifies the town.
Bodø is also major a traffic junction. This is the terminus of the Nordland railway and the Hurtigruten ships dock directly opposite the station. This is where many holiday-makers take a ferry to the Lofoten. Express ships set off for the remote regions and islands on both sides of Vestfjord. This is also the nursery of the Northern-Atlantic cod and if you want to eat a delicious dish of this fish, Bodø is the right place to do so.
The stone church, built around 1240, lies directly on Saltfjord about 3 km from the town centre. The richly decorated altarpiece from 1670 is especially noteworthy. Mid-June–end of Aug Mon–Fri 10am–3pm
An easy, three-hour hike over the nearby hills will be rewarded with the most beautiful view over the North Sea to the Lofoten Wall. From 350 m (1150 ft) up, just below the treeline, you can watch the midnight sun sink until it barely touches the sea before rising again – provided that the weather is fine. Concerts are also held here during the Nordland Music Festival. More information and hiking maps are available at the Tourist Information Office
The history of Norwegian civil aviation and the air force, a flight simulator and the depiction of what happens when a plane takes off or lands: exciting impressions for young and old. Mid-June–mid-Aug daily 10am–6pm, at other times Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat/Sun 11am–5pm | entrance fee 95 NOK | www.luftfart.museum.no
Beneath the clouds: time flies by in the Norwegian Aviation Museum |
The reconstructed entrenchment that protected the trading station at Hundholmen, the later town of Bodø, between 1810 and 1835 is located on a small island just offshore from the town. If you walk to the lighthouse, you will have a fine view of Bodø and the surrounding area from the sea.
 | SALTEN MUSEUM – NORDLANDSMUSEET BODØ |
The everyday life of Nordland’s fish farmers and the Sami settlements are the main subjects in the oldest building in Nordland (built in 1903). Bodø’s iron-age silver treasure, which was found in 1919, is also kept here. May–Aug daily 9am–4pm, Sat/Sun 11am–4pm, at other times Mon–Fri 9am–3pm | entrance fee 35 NOK | Prinsensgate 116 | www.saltenmuseum.no
| FARMORS STUE |  |  |
A delightfully cosy atmosphere with white tablecloths and the smell of coffee is to be found in ‘Grandma’s Room’. The snacks and cakes are made using organic ingredients. Kongens gate 27 | tel. 75 52 78 60 | www.farmorsstue.no | Budget–Moderate
This is where you can get reasonably-priced Norwegian home-style cooking. The restaurant swears by products from the Arctic. Tollbugta 9 | tel. 75 52 02 61 | cafeteria.lovold.wips.no | Budget
Seeing that it is always windy and sometimes quite cold, an entire street of shops in Bodø has been glazed over: you will find everything you need in the Glashuset in the centre. Souvenirs, jewellery and useful articles made of (mostly local) stone, can be bought at Bertnes Geo-Senter (www.bertnesgeosenter.no | around 8 km (5 mi) east of Bodø).
Fishing is possible everywhere here. In the fjord and on the open sea, from the shore or a boat. Salmon, cod and halibut of seemingly record size can be caught on the cutter trips on the Saltstraumen. The size of the boat, length of the excursion and price vary according to the number of people taking part. Info: Tuvsjyen AS | tel. 75 58 77 91 | www.tuvsjyen.com
| NORDLANDSBADET |  |
One of the loveliest water parks in Norway and a place where you can pamper yourself. In addition to the various swimming pools and slides, there are whirlpools and corners where you can relax – and a spa area with grottos, various temperature zones, a herbal steam bath and Finnish sauna on the first floor. Mon–Fri 10am–2am, Sat/Sun 10am–6pm | entrance fee 120 (weekends 140) NOK | spa area Mon–Fri noon–9pm, Sat to 8pm, Sun to 6pm (entrance fee 200/230 NOK) | Plassmyrveien | www.bodospektrum.no
The morning Sea Eagle Safari to Landego is really exciting and finishes up with a substantial lunch. Further information from the Tourist Information Office only.
It is worthwhile passing by the Tourist Information Office before choosing where to spend the night. They have a daily listing of where reasonably-priced rooms are available.
This idyllic hotel lies 35 km (21¾mi) from Bodø on Road 17 in the midst of wonderful scenery directly on the tidal River Saltstraumen. Cosy cabins and good Norwegian cooking. Spa facilities include a sauna and bathtubs outside in the fresh air. 28 rooms, 12 cabins | Saltstraumen | tel. 75 50 65 00 | www.satstraumenhotell.no | Moderate
This hotel, where the breakfast chef conjures up delicious dishes requested by the guests and keeps everybody happy, is tastefully decorated and – in spite of its central location – very peaceful. 71 rooms | Nyholmsgata 11 | tel. 75 51 91 00 | www.skagen-hotel.no | Expensive
Turistinformasjon | Sentrumsterminalen | tel. 75 54 80 00 | www.visitbodo.com
KJERRINGØYRoad Atlas [136 C4] | Google Map
Traditional trading centre with 15 buildings from the 19th century in an absolutely beautiful coastal setting. Here you will get a good impression of the everyday life led by the masters and their servants in a typical Norwegian merchant town in times gone by – and you’ll feel that a lot is familiar if you have read Knut Hamsun’s novels (end of May–end of Aug daily 11am–5pm | entrance fee 70 NOK, tour 40 NOK | www.saltenmuseum.no). The Markens Grøde Café (end of July–end of Aug) only uses products from neighbouring Kjerringøy organic farm. A hike from the Kjerringøy parsonage to Middagshaugen mountain is worthwhile (don’t forget to put on your hiking boots). 38 km (24 mi) north of Bodø on Road 834
Trade and change in Northern Norway: Kjerringøy tells about merchant life in times gone by |
Road Atlas [136 A4] | Google Map
You can reach these bird islands either in the 35-seat plane operated by Widerøe or by ferry from Bodø. The approximately 1400 people who have their home on these islands live from fish. The constant wind, mild winters and cool summers make it the perfect place for producing dried cod that is then exported to southern Europe. The cliffs on the south-west of the island provide shelter for gigantic colonies of seabirds. A quarter of Norway’s entire seabird population nests on the rocks of Røst – and that means around 2.5 million birds: puffins, gulls, cormorants and sea eagles. The tourist offices on the islands can give further information on boat trips to the bird rocks. Røst is 100 km (63 mi) from Bodø (the ferry takes around 7 hours) Værøy 85 km (54 mi) (around 4.5 hours)
SALTSTRAUMENRoad Atlas [136 B4] | Google Map
The most savage tidal river in the country is even a gruesomely beautiful sight from far away. Within a mere 6 hours, masses of water are forced through the 3 km (1.9 mi) long and only 150 m wide sound at almost 40 km/h – you can even hear the thundering of the force of nature from the bridge. Fishermen appreciate other qualities that this fjord entrance has to offer: this is where the largest rock salmon in Europe are caught, the record is 22.7 kg (50 lb). If you want to experience the force of the current at close quarters, you can sign up for a rafting tour. (Saltstraumen Naturopplevelser | tel. 99 42 76 06 | info@saltstraumen-adventure.com). 33 km (20½mi) east of Bodø
Road Atlas [136 C4] | Google Map
The former mining town of Sulitjelma, where copper was extracted between 1887 and 1991, lies at the end of Road 830, surrounded by threatening mountain ranges and glaciers. The difference in altitude in the galleries of the mines is more than 1200 m (almost 4000 ft) but the pit railway (end of June–mid-Aug daily 11am–5pm | 200 NOK) only goes 1500 m into the heart of the mountain. The Mining Museum (in summer, daily 11am–5pm | entrance fee 35 NOK) 1000 m away gives an overview of 100 years of mining. www.saltenmuseum.no | 106 km (66 mi) to the east
SVARTISENRoad Atlas [136 B5] | Google Map
You can get very close to Norway’s second-largest glacier if you approach it from the sea. Engabreen, a glacier snout that reaches down to the shore, is an especially popular tourist destination. In summer, small ships depart daily from the village of Holand (170 km/106 mi from Bodø) for the glacier; visitors have to cover the last 1000 metres to the Café Svartispaviljonen, with a magnificent view of the mighty main glacier, on foot or by bus. If you want to, you can walk a further 2 km until you reach the ice. (Glacier hikes May–Oct | info and bookings at Rocks ‘n Rivers | tel. 41 08 29 81 | 800 NOK for 4½ hours). www.rocksnrivers.no
| TRÆNA |
Road Atlas [136 A5] | Google Map
There are good reasons for visiting Norway’s smallest community (pop. 464). Only three of the almost 1000 islands and islets near the Arctic Circle are inhabited, and the people here have all grown up with the sea. They are fishermen or involved in salmon farming and happy to see any visitor who comes by. Even hobby anglers will be very successful in the fishing grounds between the islands, and the enormous puffin colony on the island of Lovund is a fascinating spectacle. At the beginning of July, the Træna Festival (3-day pass 90 NOK | www.trena.net) takes place: first-rate rock and pop from Norway, around 2000 – mostly young – visitors, tent camps, fine seafood straight off the cutter, sun and rain are the ingredients that make this an unforgettable experience at the Arctic Circle. Accommodation is available in the Træna Rorbuferie fishing huts (tel. 75 09 53 80 | www.rorbu-ferie.com | Budget) on Husøy. www.trana.kommune.no | 140 km (88 mi) from Bodø | express ship from Bodø or Sandnessjøen/Nesna/Stokkvågen (same ship)
A magic word all over Norway: since 1893, the 
Hurtigruten ships have plied their way between Bergen and Kirkenes. The 4600 km (2875 mi) return voyage takes 11 days and that means that 11 ships are also needed. The route mainly crosses peaceful waters between the skerries and islands. Tourists are especially fond of tours on Hurtigruten ships between April and October but there is a lot to discover on the Norwegian coast from the sea at any time of the year. It is a good idea to choose the off-season, seeing that the trip alone – excluding flight, insurance, etc. – can costs anything from around £750 to more than £11,000 per person. Information and booking: www.hurtigruten.co.uk/norway
Road Atlas [137 D3] | Google Map
Iron ore from the mines in Kiruna in Sweden is still shipped out of Narvik today. The gigantic loading wharfs are the first and most dominating, impression of a town that is located in a magnificent setting.
If you decide to stay in town but still want to have a fine view, the cable car (fjellheisen) can be recommended – it will whisk you up to an altitude of 656 m (2100 ft) in a mere seven minutes. When the sky is blue, the fjord and fjell – and sometimes the midnight sun – combine to create a breathtaking panorama. In summer daily noon–1am
The battles for Narvik and its iron ore as well as the destruction of the town in World War II are recorded this museum. The exhibition is well worth seeing and thought provoking. In summer Mon–Sat 10am–9pm, Sun noon–6pm | entrance fee 50 NOK | an the Market Square | www.fred.no
| OFOTBANEN | |
The Ofot Railway, one of the most exciting stretches of track in Europe, runs between fjords and Arctic plateaus. Travelling on this train will give you an idea of the hardships the migrant workers who built the line more than 100 years ago had to endure. The return trip to the Swedish border (Riksgränsen) costs 180 NOK. Daily 10.30am, return around 4pm | tickets at the ticket machines in Narvik
The fresh charr is one of the most delicious of the North-Norwegian specialities served in this exclusive restaurant in the Grand Royal Hotel. Kongensgate 64 | tel. 76 97 70 00 | info.q.royal@choice.no | Expensive
Alpine sports are very popular between the fjord and fjell: World Cup races are even held in Narvik. The cable cars and lifts are in operation until late May. The ski centre is in the middle of town making distances between your accommodation and the slopes short. Narvik after a fresh snowfall is a top address among snowboarders.
A reasonably priced hotel of a simple standard. In winter, many young skiers stay here. Those seeking peace and quiet are best advised to stay here in the summer only. 25 rooms | Kongensgate 26 | tel. 76 94 41 20 | www.nordstjernen.no | Moderate
Magnificent wooden villa in a suburb a bit out of the centre; decorated with antiques and beautifully furnished rooms. 4 rooms | Framnesvei 127 | tel. 76 94 48 57 | norum gaarden.narviknett.no | Budget
Turistinformasjon | Destination Narvik | Kongensgate 57 | tel. 76 96 56 00 | www.destinationnarvik.com
Road Atlas [136 C3] | Google Map
‘The sky all open and clean; I stared into that clear sea, …’. This sentence in Knut Hamsun’s book Pan was written during the many years he spent on the Hamarøy Peninsula. The community lies in a picturesque coastal setting among bizarre peaks. The Hamsunsenter (mid-June–mid-Aug daily 11am–6pm, shorter opening hours at other times | entrance fee 70 NOK | Presteid | www.hamsunsenteret.no) created by the American architect Steven Holl shows the most comprehensive exhibition on the life and work of the famous novelist anywhere. There is also a very special place to spend the night on Hamarøy: in the lighthouse Tranøy fyr (13 rooms | tel. 91 32 80 13 | www.tranoyfyr.no | Moderate) you will fall asleep with the tang of salt on your lips and the shriek of seagulls in your ears. This is also a place where anglers will be able to reel in some impressive cod. 100 km (62 mi) south of Narvik
Endless views in the far north: Tranøy fyr lighthouse on the Hamarøy peninsula |
Out Stealing Horses – This novel by Per Petterson has won many international awards and deals with universal problems: confronting the past and the truth.
Don’t Look Back – Karin Fossum made her literary debut in Norway in 1974. The author of crime fiction, often referred to as the ‘Norwegian queen of crime’, also writes poetry and short stories. It is with her Inspector Sejer mysteries that Fossum has won greatest acclaim and the series has been published in 16 languages. Other successful titles include ‘Calling Out For You’; her most recent works are ‘Bad Intentions and The Caller’.
Kitchen Stories – Director Bent Hamer has made it to Hollywood. His first film ‘Eggs’ (1995) was followed by the prize-winning ‘Kitchen Stories’ in 2003 – a somewhat off-beat story with gentle humour, little dialogue and first-class character performances.
Trollhunter – Anybody who believed that there were no trolls in Norway was shown that this is not true in this film (2011), directed by André Øvredal. During the day, the gnarled giants are not dangerous but at night they have been know to flatten a forest or steal a sheep from the meadow. This parody on documentary films can make you shudder a little – and laugh a lot.
Island-hopping by bicycle will make it easy for you to discover the island and skerry paradise along Helgeland’s coast and also bring you closer to the culture and people. Tips for routes and maps can be obtained from the tourist information offices. 125 NOK per day (incl. helmet) | tel. 75 01 80 00 | www.visithelgeland.com
The fjell farm Furuheim Gård in Susendal provides fresh produce straight from the field, overnight stays in untamed natural surroundings, culture and plenty of other activities. Overnight stay 300 NOK per person, breakfast and supper 50 NOK per meal | Hattfjeelldal | tel. 75 18 56 23 | www.furuheimgaard.no
Enjoy health food: The 
Helgeland Matfestival, the largest organic foods festival in Norway, is the place to go to taste and enjoy unusual, as well as traditional, culinary delights. All this along with good entertainment, music and cooking competitions. 17–19 Aug | entrance fee 40 NOK | Mosjøen | www.helgelandmatfestival.no