Photo: Tromsø |
Photo: Tromsø |
HIGHLIGHTS | SVALBARD (SPITSBERGEN) | TROMSØ | VESTERÅLENThere is jewel-like scenery at the foot of the mountains, sandy beaches and old fishing villages on the islands, and rivers full of fish and broad valleys in the interior. However, you will only be able to enjoy the stable summer weather protected by a mosquito net. Tourism on Svalbard profits from the natural scenery of the Arctic and the history of the island group as a whaling and sealing station. Large areas are protected and outdoor activities strictly regulated. The ‘Land of the Pointed Mountains’, as it was called by its discoverer Willem Barents in 1596, cannot sustain mass tourism.
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Norway’s arctic outpost |
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Nobody wants to go to bed here in summer |
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Paradise under the midnight sun for climbers |
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Sandy beaches, the North Sea and enormous sperm whales |
Road Atlas [134 A–B 1–2] | Google Map
Ice-capped mountains with glaciers on their slopes running into the sea, high mountain valleys that are only free of snow in the west and at the height of summer; but, the ‘Land of the Cold Coasts’ is not an icy desert.A side arm of the Golf Stream is to be thanked for it never becoming really cold on the west side of Spitsbergen, the inhabited main island in Svalbard: the average temperature in summer is 6°C (43°F) and minus 12°C (+10°F) in winter. The summer is made even more pleasant by the midnight sun: it never becomes really dark between 19 April and 22 August. Around 3700 people live on Svalbard, around one third of them in the main town Longyearbyen and smaller settlements.
This is where you can get fresh bread and pastries, lunches and various types of coffee. Lompensenteret | tel. 79 02 76 40
 | SPITSBERGEN GUESTHOUSE |
Today, you can find reasonably-priced accommodation where the workers in the coalmine used to live – on the outskirts of town and below the mountains and glaciers. Meals are still served in the ‘main mess hall’ that is a meeting place for guests from all over the world with one thing in common: they all want to discover Svalbard. 75 rooms | tel. 79 02 63 00 | www.spitsbergentravel.no | Budget
This was also once used for housing by the coal-mining company. It is now a great place to relax in cosy surroundings. 88 rooms | tel. 79 02 62 00 | www.spitsbergentravel.no | Expensive
Svalbard Reiseliv | Longyearbyen | tel. 79 02 55 50 | www.svalbard.net
Road Atlas [137 D1] | Google Map
The most northerly university city in the world has no lack of superlatives: with 2558m² Tromsø is the largest city in Norway in terms of area, it is the most densely populated city north of the Arctic Circle (pop. 55,000) and the city with the lowest average age.And, in relation to the population, nowhere else are there as many hotels, restaurants and pubs as in the ‘Paris of the North’. Sometimes it happens that there is still snow on the ground when the midnight sun, which shines here from 23 May to 23 July, makes its first appearance. But this is still reason enough for people to sit outside until late in the evening.
The trip to the Storsteinen mountain viewpoint (421 m/1380m ft) can be especially recommended on a summer evening. A refreshing drink under the midnight sun – it’s all possible here! 20 May–20 Aug daily 10am–1am | cable car 99 NOK
The church is really called Tromsdalen Kirke. But, shortly after its consecration in 1965 it was renamed the ‘Arctic Ocean Cathedral’ because the large, aluminium-coated concrete panels and triangular form created associations with an iceberg. The gigantic glass mosaic on the east wall is especially impressive as are the Midnight Sun Concerts (regularly in summer, programme from the Tourist Information Office). In summer Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 1–7pm, at other times daily 4–6pm | entrance fee 50 NOK | www.ishavskatedralen.no
A visit to the northern-most brewery in the world is topped off by half a litre of your choice in the beer hall. Tours Mon–Thu 1pm | entrance fee 150 NOK | www.mack.no
Norway’s polar history, expeditions and seal and polar bear hunting are the themes in the Polar Museum that has been set up between the old harbour warehouses. In summer daily 10am–7pm, shorter opening hours at other times | entrance fee 60 NOK | www.polarmuseum.no
The Polarmuseet on the harbour in Tromsø will take you on an expedition to the Arctic Ocean |
The 43 m (141 ft) high Tromsø Bridge spans the Tromsøsund and joins the suburb of Tromsdalen with the centre. Walking across it is an absolute must simply for the view.
Pasta and pizza between the Arctic Ocean Cathedral and cable car. Turistveien 19 | tel. 77 68 80 71 | Budget
The perfect place for a helaften – a long, pleasant evening. It can begin in the Biffhuset (Moderate) steak restaurant on the first floor or higher up in the Arctandria (Expensive) fish restaurant, continue in the Kroa (Budget) pub that is famous throughout Norway, and finish up in the cocktail bar in the basement. Strandtorget | tel. 77 60 07 20 | www.skarven.no
The light of the north really makes itself felt in the artistic products created by the Blåst glass blowing workshop (Peder Hansensgate 4 | www.blaast.no).
It is fun to spend the evening in the Storgata pedestrian precinct going from pub to pub and waiting for night to fall – because, this never happens in summer. The ideal place to start is the Ølhallan, the ‘Beer Hall’ (open until 6pm, closed on Sunday | Storgata 4 | www.olhallen.no).
Small, simple hotel in quiet surroundings. 22 rooms | Parkgata 4 | tel. 77 66 83 00 | www.hotellnord.no | Budget
Its location and ship shape make it impossible not to notice this hotel. The rooms are modern but some of them have carpets in very strong colours. If you don’t like this, ask for a room uten gulvbelleg (without a carpet) but med utsikt (with a view). 180 rooms | Frederik Langesgat 2 (on the sound) | tel. 77 66 64 00 | www.rica.no | Expensive
Destinasjon Tromsø| Kirkegata 2 | tel. 77 61 00 00 | www.destinasjontromso.no
LYNGSALPENRoad Atlas [137 E1] | Google Map
Lyngseidet is an ideal starting point for exploring the arctic alpine scenery with its, partly ice-covered, peaks reaching up to an altitude of 1800 m (5900 ft). The first mountaineers came here in the middle of the 19th century – today, this is a destination for the bravest off-slope skiers. Lyngseidet is around 60 km (37.5 mi) to the east of Tromsø and can be reached along the E8 and Road 91 and then the Breivikeidet–Svensby ferry (crossing: 20 minutes).
Road Atlas [137 D1] | Google Map
The drive on Road 862 from Tromsø along the south coast of the gigantic Kvaløya Island towards the west is an excursion into the fertile agricultural region of Troms and to the beautiful island of Sommarøy. The crystal-clear water, white beaches and flowering front gardens create delightful, colourful contrasts. 80 km (50 mi) west of Tromsø
| VOLLAN GJESTESTUE |
Road Atlas [137 E1–2] | Google Map
Norway’s truck drivers have voted: the best motorway restaurant in the country is where the E6 and E8 meet. The restaurant serves arctic dishes made with the best-quality products from the region. Nordkjosbotn | tel. 77 72 23 00 | www.vollan-gjestestue.no | 70 km (44 mi) south of Tromsø | Moderate
One of the ways to do this is by taking the small ferry (June–Aug 3 departures daily) from Gryllefjord Road Atlas [137 D1] (on the west side of Senja Island) to Andenes, the northernmost point of the group of islands. Another alternative is to drive on the E10 from Bjerkvik Road Atlas [137 D2]. After 60 km (37.5 mi), head north to Harstad or further to the west to Sortland (pop. 4200). Here, you will have to decide whether you want to go on a whale safari to the northern island of Andøya or mountain hiking to Øksnes (north-west of Sortland).
ANDENESAlthough surrounded by a wall of mountains and snow-white beaches, the main town on the island of Andøya lies completely at the mercy of the North Sea. Excursions leave the Whale Centre for the edge of the Norwegian Shelf where sperm whales regularly show up in summer waiting to be photographed. End May–mid-Sept daily 9.30am | excursion lasts a good 4 hours | from Andenes harbour | price 830 NOK | bookings necessary | tel. 76 11 56 00 | www.whalesafari.com
A wave of the fin: organised whale safaris start from the island of Andøya |
Richard With, the ‘father’ of the Hurtigruten, came from Stokmarknes and that is where the MS Finnmarken has dropped anchor – as a museum. In summer daily 10am–6pm | entrance fee 90 NOK | 26 km (16 mi) south-west of Sortland on the E10 | www.hurtigrutemuseet.no
One of the many trading posts that were established on the coast of northern Norway in the early 20th century. Visits and exhibitions in summer Tue–Sun 11am–5pm | entrance fee 30 NOK | 8 km (5 mi) north of Sortland on Road 820
Small, but exquisite. In the centre of Sortland with tastefully decorated rooms. Breakfast with freshly-baked bread is served 70 m away in the stylish but cosy Kafé Steingodt. 21 rooms | Storgata 15 | tel. 91 58 35 17 | www.hotellmarena.no | Expensive
Vesterålen Reiseliv | Kjøpmannsgata 2 | Sortland | tel. 76 11 14 80 | www.visitvesteralen.com; Andøy Turistinformasjon | Hamnegata 1c | tel. 76 14 12 03 | www.andoyturist.no
Tromsø Vandrerhjem: The youth hostel lies in the hills 15 minutes from the town centre. From 510 NOK for two | tel. 77 65 76 28 | Asgårdveien 9 | tromsohostell@vandrerhjem.no
22 self-catering cabins, such as Senjabu (3 rooms | 35 km (22 mi) from Finnsnes on the island of Senja) make it possible to enjoy the nature of the fjell and coastal landscape. 250 NOK per person | tel. 77 68 51 75 | www.turistforeningen.no/rooms