BPG_Turkey_6ed-13

Accommodation

In general, lodgings fall into two categories: hotels (oteller), found in larger towns and cities, and extending to massive resort complexes along the Aegean or Mediterranean coasts; or guest houses (pansiyonlar) which can mean simple, rock-bottom accommodation or, increasingly in the historic quarters of cities and towns, character-filled and comfortable bed-and-breakfast-type lodgings. There is an increasing number of delightfully restored Ottoman mansions opening as small boutique hotels in historic cities at surprisingly affordable rates. All places are officially rated on a scale effectively corresponding to a one-to-five-star system. Technically, the rating reflects the type of amenities offered (pool, restaurant, lifts, etc.) but does not reflect charm or ambience, so a highly desirable establishment can be given a lower rating than a mediocre establishment next door.

Prices are generally considerably less than for similar accommodation in Western Europe and North America, although luxury hotels in İstanbul, İzmir and Ankara charge at international levels. Breakfast – ‘traditional’ Turkish in simpler places, buffet-style with ‘western’ options in multi-starred establishments – is usually included. Many establishments have single beds only; if you want a double bed, request a fransiz yatak (‘French’ bed). Advance reservations are highly advisable at peak season.

I have a reservation. Reservasyonim var.

I’d like a single/double room. Tek/çift yataklı bir oda istiyorum.

With shower Duşlu

What is the price per night? Bir gecelik oda ücreti ne kadar?

Can I see the room? Bakabilimiyini?

Airports (havaIimani; see also Getting There)

Most travellers to Istanbul arrive at Atatürk Airport (www.ataturkairport.com) 20km (15 miles) southwest of İstanbul. There are excellent transport links, with metro, shuttle buses and taxis to downtown İstanbul (45mins–1hr). The low-cost carrier currently flying into İstanbul, Pegasus Air (www.flypgs.com) and regional airlines (Bora and Anadolu Jet), use Sabiha Gökçen Airport (www.sgairport.com) at Pendik, about 46km (25 miles) from the centre of İstanbul on the Asian shore. Transport from here is slow, with buses to the city centre (6am–10pm, 1–2hr depending on traffic); the green E10 bus to Kadiköy connecting directly with ferries across the Bosphorus to Eminönü and EM22 to the Kartal metro station; or taxis which can be very expensive.

There are also a few year-round scheduled services to İzmir and Antalya, plus no-frills flights to these two airports as well as to Bodrum and Dalaman on the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts respectively. Flying into Ankara (www.esenbogaairport.com) frequently involves a change at İstanbul.

Budgeting for Your Trip

Turkey is often inexpensive compared to the euro zone, but prices have risen recently as the currency stabilises and the economy booms. Think of İstanbul, İzmir, Ankara and major resorts as separate entities to the rest of Turkey. In İstanbul or Bodrum, for example, you can get a good double room for US$100–150/£60–93; elsewhere, you can usually find one for half that amount.

Meals along the coast, and in İstanbul, tend to cost what they do in most of the European Mediterranean; inland prices drop sharply. Generally, two people can eat extremely well for about $50/£30 and have a pleasant, simple meal for about $35/£22 (with beer, not wine) and a light snack for under $20/£13. Seafood is considerably more expensive than meat, beer is on the cheap side, but wine and rakı are relatively dear. Coffee is more expensive than tea, especially if it’s cappuccino or espresso. Petrol is about the most expensive in the world, yet local transport remains affordable; on-line specials for domestic air tickets can often nearly match bus fares.

Camping (kamping)

Camping is quite easy in Turkey, the campsites are mostly along the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts) and along long distance trails such as the Lycian Way or St Paul Trail. Some sites are open also in winter. The most pleasant sites, especially if you have a caravan or camper van, are the 20 or so run by the Ministry of Forestry – look for yellow lettering on brown wooden signs. Wild camping is also permitted.

Car hire

To hire a car, you must be over 21 and have had a licence for a year. You will also need a credit card for the damages deposit. The major companies all have outlets in Turkey and there are also many local hire-car agencies. Antalya, Bodrum, Dalaman airport and (sometimes) İzmir airport are the least expensive places to pick up a car; İstanbul, Marmaris, Kuşadası, Çeşme and anywhere in the east are the most expensive. Booking on-line will often be much cheaper, especially for longer periods. If you have an accident when driving a hire car in Turkey, notify the police immediately; insurance claims are invalid unless accompanied by an official accident report (kaza raporu).

Climate

Turkey is given to great extremes of climate. Expect high summer temperatures everywhere, cold, damp winters in İstanbul and Cappadocia (where, as elsewhere in Central Anatolia, it can be bitterly cold and snowy), and mild winters on the Mediterranean and Aegean coasts. Especially pleasant times to visit Turkey are spring and autumn, when temperatures are moderate and crowds are thin.

Clothing

Although Turks have become inured to the sight of tourists clad in shorts and T-shirts tramping through their cities, they do not like the practice. This is an Islamic country and while they do not expect you to wear the veil, keeping your shoulders and knees covered away from the beach is only polite. It’s a necessity if you are planning to visit any mosques. The general summer dress is lightweight trousers and short-sleeved button-down or polo shirts for men, and trousers and blouses, skirts, or dresses for women. Bathing suits, vests, brief shorts and other skimpy attire are not to be worn anywhere other than the beach. A hat and sunglasses are necessities in summer and sensible at most times.

From October through to April you will need a pullover or two in the south; in the centre and north, including İstanbul, you may need full-blown winter gear as temperatures fall, rain is common and it will usually snow at some point.

Only the most expensive restaurants in İstanbul require jacket-and-tie formality, but you will want to dress well for dinner in better restaurants anywhere in the country.

Crime and Safety

Turkey is relatively safe, and even in İstanbul crime is rarely more serious than pick-pocketing or purse-snatching; be especially careful in crowded markets and in metro cars. This said, you should be aware of some scams that are periodically perpetrated against tourists. One involves İstanbul cab drivers taking your money, substituting it with lower-denomination bills, and flashing them at you insisting that you have underpaid; to avoid this situation, tally the money you are handing the driver and call for the police immediately if an argument ensues. Far more serious is someone (usually a man) who will offer assistance with directions, only to lure you to an accomplice who may attempt to mug you.

Two of the most serious offences tourists might commit are possession of illicit drugs or antiquities; both incursions are punishable by stiff prison sentences and are not to be taken lightly. Due to civil war in Syria, it’s advisable stay at least 10km (6 miles) away from the Turkish−Syrian border.

Driving

Turkey’s roads are not for the faint of heart and you need to drive defensively at all times. While some major highways, including the country’s growing number of toll motorways, are well designed and well maintained, many roads are poorly paved, poorly marked and lit, erratically signposted and dangerously curvy and narrow, with relatively few crash barriers on cliff roads. The Turks tend to drive fast and often recklessly. In rural areas, you are quite likely to come upon flocks of sheep and goats in the road, as well as elderly and overloaded trucks, children playing football or donkey carts. All of these pose an extra hazard at night, especially with the frequent presence of unlit vehicles. Traffic lights go straight from red to green; a flashing yellow arrow means you can turn right if the road is clear even if the main light is red.

You may drive on your national driver’s licence for up to three months, but an IDP is most useful for flashing at the many control points. If bringing a car into Turkey, you will need the logbook, proof of ownership, a Green Card and carnet. Check you are comprehensively insured. An official nationality sticker must be displayed at the rear of the vehicle, and the vehicle equipped with flares, a red breakdown-warning triangle, and a full set of spares (including bulbs).

Drive on the right, pass on the left and give way to the right, even on roundabouts. Speed limits are 120km/h (70mph) on motorways, 90km/h (55mph), or 80km (50mph) for big vans or caravans on rural roads; 50km/h (30mph) or 40km/h (25mp/h) if towing something in town. Drivers and all passengers must wear seat belts, and motorcyclists must wear helmets. Blood-alcohol limits are in line with European countries – 50mg alcohol per 100ml of blood – so just two beers will put you over the limit. Traffic control points and radar speed traps are common, particularly at the entrance to towns; foreigners, especially in rental vehicles, are likely to be waved through, but make sure the rental company has provided all required documentation in the glove box.

Petrol (benzin) and diesel (mazot) are readily available around larger towns and resorts, sometimes on a 24-hr basis; however, stations can be far apart in eastern Turkey. Petrol is available three grades: super, normal and lead-free fuel (kurşunsuz), the latter rarer in rural districts; so-called euro-diesel is more efficient than standard. In most of the country, you can pay for fuel by credit card.

Durmak Yasaktır No Stopping

Yol Yapimı Men Working (Road Works)

Dikkat Danger

Yavaş Slow Down

Tek Yön One-way

Giremez No Entry

Şehir Merkezi Town Centre

Some useful phrases:

Driver’s licence Ehliyet

Petrol Benzin

Petrol station Benzin istasyonu

Oil Motor yagi

Tyre Lastik

Brakes Frenler

It does not work Calismiyor.

Fill the tank, please Doldurum, lütfen.

I’ve had a breakdown Arabam arızalandı.

There’s been an accident Bir kaza oldu.

Electricity

220V/50Hz; continental-style 2 round-pin plugs. UK Visitors will require an adapter; travellers from North America will also need a converter.

Embassies and Consulates

Foreign embassies are all in Ankara, but most major countries also have consulates in İstanbul and there are also some in larger resorts.

Consulates (in İstanbul unless otherwise stated)

Australia: Ritz Carlton residences, Asker Ocağı Cad.15, Elmadağ, tel: 0212-393 8542; Canada: Buyukdere Cad. 209, tel: 0212-385 9700; New Zealand: Inonu Cad. 48/3, Taksim, tel: 0212-244 0272; UK: Mesrutiyet Cad. 34, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu, tel: 0212-334 75406400; in Antalya: Gürsu Mah. 324 Sok. 6, Konyaaltı, tel: 0242-228 2811; in Bodrum: Cafer Paşa Caddesi, İkinci Emsan Evleri 7, tel: 0252-313 0021; in Fethiye, Atatürk Caddesi, Likya İş Merkezi, Kat 2, 202, tel: 0252- 614 6302; in İzmir: 1442 Sok. 49, Alsancak, tel: 0232-463 5151; and in Marmaris: Barbaros Cad. 11, tel: 0252-412 6486; US: İstinye Mahallesi, Üç Şehitler Sok. 2, İstinye, tel: 0212-335 9000.

Embassies in Ankara

Australia: Ugur Mumcu Cad. No.88, Gaziosmanpaşa, tel: 0312-459 9500 (www.turkey.embassy.gov.au); Canada: Cinnah Cad. 58, Çankaya, tel: 0312-409 2700 (www.turkey.gc.ca); Ireland: Ugur Mumcu Cad. 88, Gaziosmanpaşa, tel: 0312-459 1000; New Zealand: Kizkulesi Sok. 11, Gaziosmanpaşa, tel: 0312-446 3333 (www.nzembassy.com/turkey); UK: Şehit Ersan Cad. 46/A, Cankaya, tel: 0312-455 3344 (www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-ankara); US: Atatürk Bulv. 110, Kavaklıdere, tel: 0312-455 5555 (http://turkey.usembassy.gov).

EMERGENCY NUMBERS (see also Police)

0212-527 4503 Tourism police

155 Police, general

110 Urban fire department

112 Ambulance

Help! Imdat!

I am ill. Hastayım.

Call a doctor. Doktor cagirim.

Where is the hospital? Nerede hastane?

Gay and Lesbian Travellers

Although homosexual activity between consenting adults over the age of 18 is legal, Turks are generally not accepting of gay lifestyles and it is illegal to print and distribute material promoting homosexuality. Members of the same sex travel and socialise together, so gay couples should feel quite comfortable travelling together. However, sexually charged contact could result in violence. Bodrum, Alanya, Antalya and Marmaris are considered the most gay-friendly resorts, though the only place with dedicated clubs is İstanbul, where the scene is centred around Beyoğlu.

Getting there (see also Airports)

By air. Most international carriers fly to İstanbul. In summer, there are many additional direct flights to the resort airports of Dalaman, Bodrum and Antalya. The national carrier, Turkish Airlines (THY, www.thy.com), provides direct services across the globe, as well as domestic services. From the UK, Thomas Cook and Thomson offer flight-only charter deals, and low-cost carriers such as easyJet (www.easyjet.com), Pegasus Air (www.flypgs.com), and Jet2 (www.jet2.com) provide flights throughout the year.

By land. Travelling from other European cities to İstanbul by train is long (about 72 hours from London), but enjoyable if you have sufficient time. Trains from Europe arrive at Sirkeci Station in Eminönü, in the heart of old Constantinople. An excellent source of information is the website www.seat61.com, which has every possible routing to Turkey, and links for ticket purchases for the various legs of the journey. Global InterRail (www.interrail.eu) and Eurail (www.eurail.com) passes are valid in Turkey, but are unlikely to save you much money.

It takes up to four days to drive to Turkey from most places in Western Europe.

By sea. The only way to sail to Turkey is from Greece. There are (often seasonal) services from the Greek islands opposite to various Turkish resort-ports; www.feribot.net and www.ferries-turkey.com are useful information and booking resources.

Guides and Tours

Wherever you go in Turkey, you will encounter guides offering their services outside museums or archaeological sites. Some are properly qualified, licensed and excellent at their job; others provide entertainment at best. If you want a guarantee, hire a guide through the tourist office. Fees are not high. Don’t be put off if at the end of the tour the guide offers to take you to a relative’s carpet shop – it is part of the profession.

For special-interest tours, the following agencies are recommended:

IN TURKEY

Middle Earth Travel, Göreme, Cappadocia, tel: 0384-271 2559, www.middleearthtravel.com. Hiking/trekking both locally and along Lycian/St Paul trails, plus conventional sightseeing.

Crowded House Tours, Eceabat, Gallipoli, tel: 0286-8141565, www.crowdedhousegallipoli.com. Battlefield tour operator.

Alternatif Turizm, Marmaris, tel: 0252-417 2720, www.alternatifraft.com. Main local outfitter for sea-kayaking, river-rafting, canyoning, trekking along this coast.

Kirkit Voyage, Sultanahmet, İstanbul, and Avanos, Cappadocia, tel: 0212-5182282, www.kirkit.com. Mountain-biking and horse-riding in Cappadocia, plus general cultural tours.

OVERSEAS

Andante Travels (UK), tel: 01722-713800, www.andantetravels.co.uk. Up-market tours to archaeological and historical sites, led by distinguished experts.

The Imaginative Traveller (UK), tel: 0473-852 354, www.imaginative-traveller.com. Variety of escorted overland tours, many family-friendly, covering all of Turkey and visiting lesser-known spots as well as the main attractions.

Cultural Folk Tours (US), tel: 1-800-935 8875, http://culturalfolktours.com. Led by musican Bora Özkök, these 15-to-27-day tours give real insight into seldom-visited parts of Turkey.

Health and Medical Care

You don’t need any inoculations for travel to Turkey and there are no serious health risks, although the coastal area east of Alanya does have malaria in season. The most common problems for tourists are mild stomach upsets, sunburn and/or heat stroke in high summer, and alcohol poisoning. All are easily avoided – keep washing your hands, drink bottled water, eat only freshly cooked, hygienically prepared food; wear a hat and sunblock and drink plenty of water; and keep the alcohol levels down. Also, be careful in the countryside – there are poisonous scorpions, snakes and spiders.

Make sure you have full travel insurance that will cover any medical treatment you may need. You may be asked to pay for treatment upfront, so keep all receipts. Pharmacies are well stocked, and can treat many minor ailments; emergency after-hour locations are posted in all pharmacies. Your hotel will be able to get you a doctor if necessary. The quality of medical care is generally good.

Water. Tap water is heavily chlorinated and not exactly tasty (in İstanbul it is absolutely to be avoided). Turks prefer inexpensive bottled water; still water is şişe suyu, sparkling water is maden suyu. Rural springs are labelled içilir, içibelir or içme suyu (all meaning ‘drinkable’) or içilmez (‘not drinkable’).

Where can I find a doctor/ dentist? Nereden bir doktor/bir disci bulabilirim?

Where is the nearest pharmacy? En yakin eczane nerededir?

Sunburn Güneş yanğı

Fever Ateş

Stomach ache Mide bozulması

Language

While English is spoken widely in hotels and other tourist facilities, you may well find yourself in many places in Turkey where English is unknown. Try to have at least a few words of Turkish up your sleeve: English-speaking or not, Turks will applaud your efforts.

Among Atatürk’s sweeping reforms were his attempts to ‘modernise’ the Turkish language. As a result, since 1929 Turkish has been written in a modified Roman alphabet. Many letters are pronounced as they are in English. Some exceptions:

c like j in jam

ç like ch in chip

ğ almost silent, lengthening the preceding vowel

h always pronounced

ı like the sound between b and l in ‘probable’

j like s in pleasure

ö like ur in fur

ş like sh in shell

ü like ew in few

Some basic words and phrases:

Good morning Günaydın Goon-eye-DEN

Please Lütfen LEWT-fen

Thank you Teşekkür ederim Tay-shake-kur eh-day-REEM

Bon appetite Afiyet olsun

Cheers! Şerefe!

Excuse me Ozur dilerim Oh-ZEWR deel-air-eem

Where is…? Nerde…? NEH-deer…?

I don’t understand Anlamıyorum Ahn-LAH-muh-yohr-um

I’d like… Istiyorum… EES-tee-yohr-ruhm

How much is that? Bu ne kadar? boo neh kaddar?

Is there a toilet here? Tuvalet var mı?

OK Tamam

Yes/No Evet/Hayır

Numbers:

one bir beer

two iki ee-KEE

three üc ooch

four dört doort

five beş besh

six altı ahl-TUH

seven yedi YED-dee

eight sekiz sek-KEEZ

nine dokuz doh-KOOZ

ten on ohn

hundred yüz yewz

Days of the week:

Monday Pazartesi Pahz-AHR-teh-see

Tuesday Salı SAHL-luh

Wednesday Çarşamba Char-shahm-BAH

Thursday Perşembe Pair-shem-BAH

Friday Cuma JOON-ahz

Saturday Cumartesi Joom-AHR-teh-see

Sunday Pazar Pahz-AHR

Maps

Good country or regional maps can be bought in bookshops in Istanbul and other touristdestinations. Consider buying one before you leave home; the best currently available overseas is Reise Know-How’s 1:700,000-scale Western Turkey Mediterranean Coast and Cyprus, which covers the entire southern and western third of the country. Locally, Sabri Aydal’s 1:250,000 products for Lycia, Cappadocia and Pamphylia are available. Turkish motorway maps are available at the website of the Republic of Turkey Directorate of Highways (www.kgm.gov.tr).

Media

Some foreign English-language newspapers are available from newsstands in İstanbul and in larger resorts. The two local English-language dailies are the Hürriyet Daily News (www.hurriyetdailynews.com) and the Today’s Zaman (www.todayszaman.com). Good news website in English are: www.turkishweekly.net and www.aa.com.tr (of Anadolou News Agency). News in English is broadcast on CNN, BBC World and Al Jazeera; the better hotels offer a satellite package including these, as well as the private Digitürk network’s English-language CNBC-e and E2 channels.

Money

Currency. The unit of currency is the Türk Lirası (TL, Turkish Lira); 1TL is broken into 100 kuruş, which are available in coins of 5, 10, 25 and 50 kuruş, plus 1 TL. Notes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200TL.

Most travellers obtain cash either through the ubiquitous ATMs, or exchange sterling, euro or US$ bills at dedicated foreign-exchange booths (döviz burolar); these are open much longer hours than banks, and charge no commission, though usually offer a poorer rate. Credit/debit cards are useful for air ticket and petrol purchase; most brands are accepted. Payment in foreign currency is happily accepted for purchase of valuable souvenirs (eg carpets).

Opening Times

In general, hours are: archaeological sites, 8.30am–6.30pm daily in summer (with many variations); government offices, 8.30am–12.30pm and 1.30–5.30pm, Mon–Fri (tourist offices are often open on weekends too during summer); museums, 8.30/9am–5.30/6pm Tue–Sun (with many variations); restaurants, noon–2.30pm or 3pm for lunch, 7 or 7.30–10pm or 10.30pm for dinner (those that have music and offer drinks will often remain open longer); shops, 9am–7pm (as late as midnight during the summer season in some resorts).

Police (polis)

There are many kinds of police in Turkey. Municipal polis deal with petty crime, traffic, parking and other day-to-day matters; the Jandarma, a better trained national force, actually a branch of the army, handle serious crime and civil unrest; Trafik Polis monitor town streets and highways; the Belediye Zabitası (market police) patrol market areas with an eye out for shoplifters and dishonest merchants; and the Turizm Polis, who often speak English, are on hand in busy tourist areas.

Post Offices

Turkish post offices (www.ptt.gov.tr) are easily recognised by their PTT signs. In the major cities and resorts, the central post office is open 8am–midnight; others are open 8.30am–12.30pm and 1.30–5.30pm. Express service is faster but much more expensive; most people use courier companies for anything precious. Post offices also offer metered counter-telephone service.

Public Holidays

Turks enjoy year-round festivals (for more information, click here), and observe the following nation-wide holidays:

1 January New Year’s Day

23 April National Independence and Children’s Day

19 May Atatürk Commemoration and Youth and Sports Day

30 August Victory Day

29 October Republic Day (anniversary of the declaration of the Turkish Republic)

10 November Anniversary of Atatürk’s death

The most important Islamic holidays, which drift backward 11 days annually relative to the western calendar, are Şeker Bayramı (end of Ramazan), falling in mid-summer until 2016, and Kurban Bayramı (Festival of the Sacrifice), occurring lately in mid-autumn. Both are multi-day festivals, and the country effectively shuts down for the duration as everyone who can goes on holiday. Many restaurants close during Ramazan at midday, except in tourist resorts.

Religion

Turkey is 99 percent Muslim. In İstanbul and İzmir, you will find Jewish, Armenian, Catholic and Greek Orthodox services. Non-Muslims are welcome to visit mosques, though often not during prayers. Visitors must remove their shoes (at larger mosques, an attendant will check them; elsewhere, there’s a rack inside the door on which to place them). Men and women should cover their legs and upper arms (no shorts or sleeveless T-shirts) and women should cover their heads, shoulders and knees.

Telephone (telefon)

Turkey’s mobile phone networks offer widespread coverage; they use the European operating system, so North Americans will need a tri-band phone. Foreign visitors should not roam on their home SIM for anything other than texting; since Turkish networks are not subject to EU roaming caps, making or receiving voice calls is expensive. Instead, purchase a local pay-as-you-go SIM card (they start from around 20TL) or, for somewhat dearer rates, an international roaming SIM card (www.gosim.co.uk). To use your mobile phone with Turkish SIM card, especially in case of stays longer than two weeks, it’s necessary to register it with the Turkish authorities.

Because of the prevalence of mobile use, there are fewer public phones now. They are usually blue, and take phone cards (from post offices and newsstands) or credit cards. Instructions are available in several languages. For more quiet, go to a TT (Türk Telekom, www.turktelekom.com.tr) premises. Local calls are quite cheap. To call internationally, dial 00, then the country code. Calling Turkey from abroad, its country code is 90; omit the initial zero of the 11-digit Turkish land or mobile number. Avoid phoning from your hotel room, as surcharges are horrendous.

Time Zones

Turkey is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), which places it 2 hours ahead of London, 7 hours ahead of New York, 10 hours ahead of Los Angeles, 2 hours behind Johannesburg, 9 hours behind Sydney, and 11 hours behind Auckland. Turkey observes Daylight Savings Time as in Europe: 1 hour forward the last Sunday in March, reverting to standard time the last Sunday in October.

New York London Turkey Sydney Los Angeles

5am 10am noon 8pm 2am

Tipping

Tips provide many Turks working in tourism with a good share of their income. Tip bellhops 2TL or 3TL a bag, and leave about 5TL per day of your stay for a hotel chambermaid. In many small hotels and pansiyons, the desk staff does double duty as cleaners, room service attendants, breakfast waiters and all-around service providers, and it is nice to leave a generous tip upon departure. To tip a taxi driver, simply round up the total. Tour guides and excursion-boat operators usually also expect a tip; 20–30TL per day of friendly service is appropriate. In non-fancy restaurants where no service charge or garsoniye (‘waiter charge’) is levied, 5 to 10 percent of the bill is fine; in fancier places, mandatory service charges can approach 20 percent of the bill, but leave a bit more on top if service has been good.

Toilets (tuvalet)

There are plenty of public toilets, with most cafés and restaurants, petrol stations and tourist sights having facilities. They are often kept clean by a full-time warden, who will charge users up to 1TL. Most offer a mix of Western-style and Turkish squat toilets. All have little squirter-pipes aimed your nether parts, as local custom requires cleansing with running water. Carry a bit of toilet paper with you to blot yourself dry, and (usually) deposit this in a basket next to the basin, not in it. The gents’ toilet is designated by baylar, the ladies’ by bayanlar.

Tourist Information

The official Turkish tourism websites are www.goturkey.com, www.tourismturkey.org and www.gototurkey.co.uk. Turkish Tourist Offices abroad:

UK: 3rd Floor, Craven House 121 Kingsway, London WC2B 6PA, tel: 020-7839 7802

US: 825 3rd Avenue Floor 5, New York, NY 10022, tel: 212-687 2194; 5055 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 850, Los Angeles, CA, 90036, tel: 323-937 8066

Tourist offices in Turkey:

Ankara: Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulvarı 121, 06570 Maltepe, tel: 0312-231 5572

İstanbul: At Meydanı, Sultanahmet, tel: 0212-518 1802/518 8754

İzmir: 1344 Sokak 2, Passport, tel: 0232-444 7390

There are also variably helpful offices in Alanya, Antakya, Antalya, Avanos, Ayvalık, Bodrum, Bursa, Çanakkale, Çeşme, Edirne, Fethiye, Gaziantep, Kaş, Konya, Kuşadası, Marmaris and Selçuk.

Transport

A good public transport network makes it relatively easy to move between major cities and towns in Turkey without a car. Even some remote archaeological sites and beaches may be reached by public transport, but service can be infrequent.

Any town of any size has at least one otogar (bus station) that is the hub of local and long-distance transport. Long-distance buses, many of which travel by night, are often the only mode of transport available between cities and towns. Better companies, worth paying extra for, include Ulusoy, Varan (www.varan.com.tr), Metro (www.metroturizm.com.tr), Pamukkale and Kamil Koç.

Large towns and cities are served by local buses; buy tickets at kiosks before boarding, though in İstanbul most are now geared only for swiping of electronic, reloadable tickets called akbil. İstanbul, Ankara and İzmir all have efficient, if often limited, metro networks. İstanbul, of course, has an extensive ferry network along the Bosphorus, and there are also useful car ferries and sea-buses across the Sea of Marmara.

Dolmuş fleets (often vans) also operate in most towns, and can serve as the main transport between smaller villages off major bus routes as well. They ply will drop off passengers upon request along the way. Stops are marked with a ‘D’. In resorts, a dolmuş often provides fast and inexpensive transport to a beach or nearby archaeological site.

Numerous yellow taxis serve larger towns; make sure the meter is running and visible, and that the driver understands where it is you want to go (write it down to save problems). For trips to remote sites, it is worth doing a flat-rate deal for the morning or day, including waiting time, so you will have return transport.

Trains (www.tcdd.gov.tr) of interest to tourists are mostly confined to the triangle İstanbul-İzmir-Ankara; the best ones are cheaper than buses, more comfortable, and sometimes faster. The hi-speed trains run several times a day on three routes: Ankara–Istanbul Pendik Station (3h 30 min), Ankara–Konya (1h 45 min) and Eskişehir–Konya (1 h 30 min).

Domestic flights are numerous, serve an increasing number of hitherto obscure airports and can be surprisingly cheap. In addition to THY and Pegasus, Anadolu Jet (www.anadolujet.com), Atlas Jet (www. atlasjet.com), Sun Express (www.sunexpress.com) and Onurair (www.onurair.com.tr) provide internal services.

When is the next bus to…? Bir sonraki otobüs kaçta kalkiyor…?

A ticket to… a bir bilet…

What time does it leave? Kaçta kalkiyor?

How long does it take? Ne kadar surebilir?

How much does it cost? Ne kadar?

Visas and Entry Requirements

Tourist visa requirements and costs vary substantially according to your nationality. All travellers need a passport valid for at least six months. Visas for 90 days are no longer granted on entry, it’s necessary to apply via the Electronic Visa Application System (www.evisa.gov.tr) and pay with a credit or debit card. There are interactive kiosks at Turkish airports when you can get your visa in 3 minutes, but it’s recommended to buy it in advance. In the case of the US and UK the fee is £20/$US30.

Turkish regulations permit visitors to bring all personal effects, including one camera, one music system (eg iPod), one personal computer and one video player. Duty-free import limits for luxury consumables include 1 litres of wine or spirits, 200 cigarettes, 10 cigars, and 200g of tobacco, 1kg coffee, 500g of tea and 1kg of chocolate. Exiting Turkey into the EU (particularly Greece), there is a duty-free limit for souvenir purchases (up to the value of €300). It is an offence to attempt to export ‘antiquities’, whose exact definition is vague but can include very old carpets. Reputable dealers will prepare a document for you stating that the purchased item is not an antiquity.

Currency Restrictions and VAT. There is no limit on the amount of foreign currency you can bring into Turkey, but sums above $US15,000 equivalent should be declared. Do not bring significant amounts of Turkish lira – you always get a better rate inside the country.

A variable (8 to 23 percent) value-added tax (KDV in Turkish) is added to most purchases in Turkey. Non-EU-resident foreigners can claim a VAT refund on departure providing they have dealt with retailers who furnished them with a Special VAT Refund Invoice. In practice, only the most expensive shops participate in the scheme

Websites and Internet Access

www.biletix.com Booking for arts, music and sporting events, mostly in İstanbul and Ankara.

www.turkeytravelplanner.com American-orientated site with loads of practical tips and links to vetted service providers.

www.trekkinginturkey.com and www.cultureroutesinturkey.com Information on major trekking areas and marked long-distance routes, with on-line sales of guides and maps.

www.turkeycentral.com Useful portal with links to a variety of sites.

www.tulumba.com New-York-based shopping site specialising in all things Turkish, especially foodstuffs and music.

www.mymerhaba.com Aimed at long-term residents, and strongest on İstanbul, but wide-ranging and authoritative, with good events listings.

www.theguideistanbul.com The website of Istanbul magazine with listings, news about shopping, lifestyle and arts.

Turkey must be one of the most well connected societies in the world. Wi-fi zones are ubiquitous in bars and restaurants, and even surprisingly modest pansiyons will have a signal (usually free), in common areas if not every room; luxury hotels are more apt to charge for use.

Youth Hostels

Pansiyons in Turkey are so reasonably priced that hostels per se are restricted to backpacker meccas such as İstanbul, Kuşadası, Fethiye, Çanakkale and Köyceğiz. Along the Lycian coast, interesting adaptations of these – arisen to get around a ban on ‘permanent’ buildings in protected areas – are the so-called ‘treehouse’ lodges, particularly at Olympos, near Ölüdeniz and elsewhere along the Lycian Way.