Lacking geysers, bison, and fumaroles, Glacier National Park is perhaps destined to forever be Montana’s second-favorite national park. But hikers—day-trippers and back-country enthusiasts alike—have long appreciated Glacier’s 700 miles of hiking trails, and the abundant opportunities for transcendence and isolation they afford.
“I had visited many of the national parks in the western United States with my parents as I was growing up,” Randy Gayner recalled, “and the mountains of Glacier made a tremendous impression on me. When I finished college, I found a summer job there. Once I was out there, I thought it would be crazy for me to start my adult life back in Cleveland, when the Glacier area provided such a spectacular venue for outdoors folks like myself. Almost thirty years later, I’m still here.”
Glacier National Park comprises more than one million acres in northwestern Montana; the park abuts the Canadian provinces of Alberta and British Columbia, and is contiguous with Canada’s Waterton Lakes National Park. Contrary to popular perception, the park is named not for existing glaciers (of which a few do remain), but for the work earlier glaciers did at the conclusion of the last ice age. These glaciers slowly scoured away deep valleys and sharp ridges, carving rugged mountains and deep lakes en route. “The most special thing for me about Glacier is the tremendous amount of high alpine country you find here,” Randy continued. “Since we’re so far north, a lot of our high country is above tree line. Our mountains are actually a southern extension of the Canadian Rockies, more sedimentary in composition than the granitic American Rockies. The way these formations have worn away adds to their dramatic nature. Glacier is also special because of its abundant animal life. Every big-game animal that was here originally is still here—wolf, mountain lion, wolverine, lynx … and, of course, grizzly bear. The presence of these predators, especially the bears, intensifies your senses. It gives any hiking experience here a little extra pizzazz.”
Some two million visitors come to take in Glacier each year, though many of those folks do not range much beyond the Going-to-the-Sun Road, which cuts across the center of the park from west to east. The fifty-two-mile highway is frequently ranked as one of the most beautiful roads in the world, and many of the park’s trademark characteristics—from glacial lakes to windswept passes—are visible from its macadam. As it turns out, the Going-to-the-Sun Road is also the launching point for one of Glacier’s most noteworthy day hikes, the Highline Trail. “The trail begins at Logan Pass, the high point of Going-to-the-Sun [at 6,646 feet],” Randy described, “and parallels the Continental Divide for seven miles. The hike is all above tree line, providing for wide-open, grand vistas.” The high vantage point, unbroken by trees, makes the Highline an excellent wildlife-viewing trail. “You almost always see mountain goats and bighorn sheep,” Randy continued. “The animals are used to seeing people and don’t spook easily, so photographers can get some great shots. The Highline is also a good trail to see grizzlies—at a comfortable distance! There’s a valley down below that we’ve nicknamed Bear Valley, for the many times we’ve watched bears from above.” The Highline has other things going for it: It’s one of Glacier’s least punishing trails, with many extended flat sections, and at the end of the trail the Granite Park Chalet awaits, with snacks and beverages available.
Another of Randy’s favorite day hikes is the trail to Iceberg Lake. “Iceberg Lake is in the Many Glacier Valley in the northeastern section of the park. The valley is a great place to base yourself, as there are many wonderful day hikes from here.” The Iceberg Lake trail unfolds through open terrain, framed by Mount Wilbur in the background and the Ptarmigan Wall to the west, which towers nearly 3,000 feet above the trail. Like Highline, Iceberg Lake is one of the gentler walks in Glacier, gaining a modest 1,200 feet in elevation over four and a half miles. It’s also a productive trail for finding grizzlies. These characteristics, and its astounding scenery, make it another visitor favorite. “Iceberg Lake itself is tucked back into a cirque, in the shadows of Mount Wilbur,” Randy explained. “It doesn’t get a lot of sun, especially against the north wall. Snow holds in there for a long time, but as the summer goes on, large chunks of snow and ice will calve off. There are usually small icebergs floating around on the lake, hence the name.”
With a million acres to explore, Glacier offers no shortage of backcountry hiking opportunities, where you’re sure to leave the crowds behind. Randy shared a few of his favorites. “For a shorter backpacking trip—say, three days—I love the Dawson–Pitamakan Pass hike in the Two Medicine region of the park. It’s about twenty miles, so you don’t need to cover too much ground each day. The campgrounds on Old Man Lake and No Name Lake are spectacular, and between Dawson Pass and Pitamakan, you walk a ridge-line along the Continental Divide. There are huge views to the east and the west—and enough wind to blow you off your feet! This was a sacred area for the Blackfeet Indians. They called it the Backbone of the World. For a longer backpacking trip, the Boulder Pass–Brown Pass trail in the north of the park is a favorite. In the section between Brown and Boulder Pass, you spend several days up in high alpine country, with huge wildflower meadows. The most spectacular place to camp in Glacier is just off the trail near Boulder Pass, a spot called Hole in the Wall. It’s a cirque with waterfalls all around, and a little creek that runs through the middle of the campsite.”
RANDY GAYNER came to Montana after finishing college, and he never left. After first working as a backcountry ranger based out of the Polebridge Ranger district in Glacier National Park, Randy founded Glacier Guides and Montana Raft Company in 1983. When he’s not holding his trusty clipboard, you can find him floating local rivers, ski patrolling up on Big Mountain, or scouting for another fun adventure.
► Getting There: Visitors can fly to Kalispell, Montana, which is served by Alaska Airlines (800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com) and United (800-864-8331; www.united.com).
► Best Time to Visit: Peak hiking season is June through September. The Glacier National Park Web site (www.nps.gov/glac) lists trail conditions.
► Accommodations: In addition to many campgrounds, there are a number of lodging options inside Glacier National Park; all are highlighted on the park’s Web site (www.nps.gov/glac). The Flathead Convention & Visitor Bureau (800-543-3105; www.fcvb.org) highlights lodging outside the park.
► Guides/Outfitters: Glacier Guides and Montana Raft Company (800-521-7238; www.glacierguides.com) leads both day and backcountry hikes in Glacier National Park.
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