This baked macaroni and cheese was a staple in the Davis family while Mitchell, now James Beard Foundation executive editor and publisher, was growing up, and his mother still makes it when he comes home for dinner. Her secret is to use two kinds of Cheddar—extra-sharp and mild—and to cut it into cubes, rather than grate it.
For best results, assemble it the night before and let it sit in the fridge. That way, the noodles will absorb some of the tomato juice and the ingredients will meld together into a delicious whole.
1 pound penne
4 tablespoons butter, plus extra for the baking dish
½ pound extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes
½ pound mild Cheddar cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, roughly chopped, with their juice
2 tablespoons sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
Pinch of freshly ground pepper
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat and cook the pasta until just al dente, 2 or 3 minutes less than the package directions. Drain in a colander but do not rinse.
Return the pasta to the pot and stir in the 4 tablespoons of butter. Add the cheeses, tomatoes, and sugar, stir to combine, and season with the salt and pepper. Pour into a lightly buttered 2-quart rectangular baking dish (Pyrex works well). Pile high; it will hold. If you are finishing the casserole the following day, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
When you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake on the middle shelf until the top is brown and crisp and the casserole is bubbling, 40 to 45 minutes (if it has been refrigerated, cook a few minutes longer).