It's hard to stop eating this gratin from the chef-owner of Bouterin restaurant in Manhattan; his mother, herself a talented cook, prepared this treat in the kitchen of the family's farm in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Wild thyme grew just outside the farmhouse (which was called Mas Antoine), along with lavender and other fragrant herbs.
2 tablespoons butter, plus extra for the gratin dish
1 pound elbow macaroni
2 generous tablespoons flour
2½ cups whole milk Generous pinch of kosher salt
6 drops of Tabasco or pinch of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
2 cups (½ pound) grated Swiss cheese
3 tablespoons seasoned bread crumbs
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 9 by 13-inch gratin dish or baking pan.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat and cook the pasta until al dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and place in a large bowl.
In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the 2 tablespoons of butter. Sprinkle the flour over it and mix well with a spatula or wooden spoon; cook about 2 minutes. Raise the heat to high, slowly whisk in the milk, and bring to a boil, whisking. Add the salt, Tabasco, thyme, nutmeg, and cheese and mix well. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the cheese is almost completely melted and the mixture is thick. Pour the sauce over the macaroni, mix well, and pour into the buttered dish. Sprinkle with the bread crumbs.
Bake on the middle shelf until brown and firm, 25 to 30 minutes. If the top has not browned, place under a preheated broiler just until brown and crisp.