The vibrant flavors and textures in this hearty Greek classic from the chef of New York's Molyvos restaurant will bring you back for seconds and thirds. When you set this out on your buffet table, it will disappear in a flash.
Pastitsio is a complex dish with many enticing ingredients in addition to pasta and cheese, so be sure to leave a few hours for preparation. It helps to make the components ahead and refrigerate them separately; you can also complete the dish a day in advance and reheat it before serving. But this one is well worth your time—Pastitsio will make your party.
FOR THE FILLING
¼ cup currants
9 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound ground beef (90% lean)
1 pound ground lamb, or substitute another pound of beef
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
3½ tablespoons ras el hanout (see Note and Sources)
2 teaspoons ground Aleppo pepper (see Note and Sources)
2½ tablespoons ground cinnamon
4 cups finely diced onion
(2 large onions, about 1½ pounds)
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 cups red wine
2½ cups canned whole tomatoes (from a 28-ounce can; keep any extra for another use), crushed by hand, with their juice
In a small bowl, cover the currants with warm water and let soak for 30 minutes. Drain and reserve.
Heat a large skillet or a 4- to 6-quart pot over medium heat until hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, swirl to coat the pan, and add one quarter of the beef and lamb in small bits. Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until lightly browned. Season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper, ¼ teaspoon each of ras el hanout and Aleppo pepper, and a pinch of cinnamon. Remove from the heat and, with a slotted spatula or spoon, transfer the meat to a bowl. Pour off any excess oil and wipe out the pan with a paper towel; repeat the process until all the meat has been cooked.
Return the skillet to the stove over medium heat and heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering. Add the onions and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook another minute, stirring once to combine. Return the meat to the pan and season with the remaining ras el hanout, Aleppo pepper, and cinnamon. Stir to combine well (be careful—the pan will be quite full). Add the wine and reduce the liquid until the mixture is almost dry, 35 to 40 minutes. Stir it occasionally, since the bottom will be drier than the top. Add the tomatoes with their juices, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring once to combine. Add the currants, taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the meat to a large bowl to cool.
May be refrigerated for up to one day.
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE
¼ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, with juice
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering and sauté the garlic for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the oregano and season with salt and pepper. Sauté for 1 minute more, add the crushed tomatoes, stir once to combine (most of the oil will float to the top), and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally and skimming the surface if necessary. Can be refrigerated, covered, for up to five days, or frozen.
FOR THE YOGURT-BÉCHAMEL TOPPING
1½ cups whole milk
1½ cups heavy cream
1 bay leaf
½ medium onion
2 whole cloves
2 tablespoons butter, softened
Scant ½ cup flour
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
½ cup goat’s milk yogurt (available at specialty and health food stores and some greenmarkets) or cow’s milk yogurt, drained in a cheesecloth-lined strainer until thick
Combine the milk and cream in a large, heavy pot, place over medium heat, and bring the milk mixture to a simmer.
Meanwhile, lay the bay leaf over the cut side of the onion and pierce it with the cloves; the bay leaf will adhere. Set aside.
In a large pot over medium heat, melt the butter and stir in the flour. Blend until smooth and thick (the mixture will resemble thick mashed potatoes). Cook the mixture over low heat for 10 minutes; remove from the heat and whisk in the milk mixture in a steady stream. Place the pot over medium heat, add the clove-studded onion, and cook for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to make it smooth. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg and set aside to cool.
When the béchamel comes to room temperature, remove the onion, fold in the yogurt, and combine well. If it isn't smooth, whisk again.
FOR THE PASTA
1 pound penne
2 tablespoons olive oil
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat and cook the pasta until al dente (approximately 12 minutes), stirring occasionally to keep it moving freely in the water. Drain in a colander and transfer to a pot of cold water with ice, to stop the cooking process. When the pasta has cooled, drain well and place in a mixing bowl. Toss with the olive oil, to keep it from sticking.
TO ASSEMBLE
¼ cup (about 1 ounce) grated kefalotyri cheese,
or substitute grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Spread ¾ cup of the tomato sauce in a 9 by 13 by 4-inch baking dish (or use two smaller, shallower baking dishes), covering the bottom thoroughly. Add ¼ to ½ cup of the tomato sauce to the reserved penne and toss to coat. Spread the pasta evenly in the baking dish and spread the meat mixture over the pasta. Pour the yogurt mixture over the meat and sprinkle with the kefalotyri cheese.
Put the baking dish on a sheet pan and bake on the middle shelf for 25 minutes. Turn the oven setting to broil and finish the Pastitsio under the broiler until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve hot (use a slotted spoon).
NOTE: Ras el hanout (literally “head of the shop”), a Middle Eastern spice blend, contains cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, turmeric, ginger, and cardamom, among other flavors. Aleppo pepper is made from dried, lightly salted Turkish chiles.