Fresh figs add sweetness to this lush blend of flavors and textures, mushrooms lend their rich flavor and aroma, and nuts provide a bit of crunch. A very light cheese sauce brings together all these good things, in an outstanding dish from Chef Jody Adams of the Boston area's Red Clay and Rialto.
Fresh pasta sheets are available at many specialty grocery and pasta shops, but the frozen variety you find in your local supermarket makes an acceptable substitute. Both types come sprinkled with cornmeal to prevent their sticking together in the package; brush off as much as you can before cooking.
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1 clove garlic, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
3 large portobello mushroom caps (about ⅔ pound without stems), cut into ¼-inch-wide, 1-inch-long slices
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
2 fresh pasta sheets, 8 by 12 inches, or substitute frozen sheets (4 sheets, 8 by 6 inches)
¼ pound fresh spinach, stemmed, washed, and dried
6 fresh Turkish (brown) figs, stems removed, cut into ¼-inch slices
6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons finely chopped toasted walnuts (see Note)
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup (2 ounces) crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
4 to 6 sprigs fresh thyme, for garnish
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Raise the heat to high and add the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the chopped thyme and toss to mix. Set aside to cool.
Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add 1 teaspoon salt per quart. Add the pasta sheets and cook, stirring occasionally and taking care not to break the sheets, until just tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer the pasta to the ice water to cool; drain immediately (if you leave them in the water too long, they will stick together). Pat the sheets dry with paper towels.
Brush a board with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil (make sure it is evenly covered, so the pasta gets coated).
Lay one pasta sheet on the board. If you are using 8 by 12-inch sheets, cover with half the spinach, leaving a 2-inch border along the long side farthest from you. Season with salt and pepper. Distribute half the mushrooms evenly over the spinach. Sprinkle half the figs, Parmesan, and walnuts over the mushrooms. If you are using the smaller frozen sheets, use ½ tablespoon of olive oil and one fourth of each ingredient for each.
Starting with the long edge closest to you, roll the sheet tightly, jelly roll-style, and seal with the uncovered edge. Cut into six even slices. Repeat this process with the remaining pasta sheet (start by brushing the board with oil). The uncut rolls may be wrapped tightly in aluminum foil and refrigerated up to one day.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush a small baking sheet with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and arrange the spirals on the sheet. Bake on the middle shelf until the spinach is cooked and the rolls are heated through, 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the heavy cream in a small pot over medium heat and reduce by one fourth, skimming the foam from the surface. Whisk in the Gorgonzola, stirring until completely dissolved. Sea son with salt and pepper and keep warm over low heat. The sauce will be thin.
Divide the sauce among four to six warmed plates and arrange the pasta spirals on top. Garnish with the thyme sprigs and serve immediately.
NOTE: To toast walnuts: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the walnuts on a baking sheet in a single layer and bake on the middle shelf until slightly brown and aromatic, 8 to 10 minutes.