Tim Goodell assures us that when people order generous servings of his Mac and Cheese for lunch at his restaurants, Aubergine, Troquet, and Red Pearl Kitchen, they don't order more food—they have no room for anything else. It is uncomplicated, yet elegant, perfectly spiced, and satisfying.
4 tablespoons butter, plus extra for the baking dish
1 pound elbow macaroni
2 quarts whole milk
½ cup flour
½ tablespoon minced garlic
½ pound sharp Cheddar cheese, cut into ¼-inch dice
¼ pound Montgomery Cheddar cheese (or substitute a mild Cheddar), cut into ¼-inch dice
2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
½ teaspoon Tabasco
1 teaspoon black truffle oil (see Sources)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
½ cup (2 ounces) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
¼ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
Fresh chives, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 9 by 13-inch baking dish and set on a foil-lined sheet pan (to catch any spills).
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat and cook the pasta until al dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain.
In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the milk until almost scalding.
In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, melt the 4 tablespoons of butter, add the flour, and cook, stirring occasionally, until smooth and straw-colored, about 3 minutes. Raise the heat to medium, whisk the hot milk into the flour mixture, and continue whisking until smooth. Slowly bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to make sure that the milk at the bottom doesn't burn, and remove from the heat. Add the garlic and sharp Cheddar, Montgomery Cheddar, and Gorgonzola cheeses and mix carefully. Add the Tabasco and truffle oil and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the cooked macaroni.
Pour into the prepared baking dish. Combine the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and the panko crumbs and sprinkle over the macaroni mixture. Bake until bubbling and browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish individual servings with chives.