Like the recipes in Part 2, these are traditional in both ingredients and techniques, but their traditions are global rather than American. Although Italian, Greek, and French influences on pasta dishes are legendary, the international spirit isn't limited to the classics; it inspires the dishes in Part 4, “Mac and Cheese Today,” and that often has made recipe placement a very close call. Consider this part a treasury of dishes that would pass muster with an Old World nonna or grandmère—who happens to be a fantastic cook.

International dishes provide an education in food, and you will see that what is customary in Greece (ras el hanout, Aleppo pepper) or Provence (salt cod) can be new and surprising to American macaroni gourmets. The cheeses, especially, are a departure from earlier recipes. In place of Cheddar and American, look for such delights as Manchego, robiola, Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Fontina Val d'Aosta, and kefalotyri.

Italy, the cradle of macaroni, inspires Alan Tardi's Rigatoni al Forno, Melissa Kelly's Orecchiette con Fonduta (with its fascinating sauce method), Don Pintabona's Farfalle al Quattro Formaggi, and Andrea Curto's Wish Macaroni and Cheese, as well my simple Mozzarella Mac.

Antoine Bouterin offers a memory of his Provençal childhood in Macaroni Gratin Mas Antoine, and Gordon Hamersley transports us to France with his charming cod and garlic-enriched Macaroni and Cheese Provençal.

Two Greek pasta dishes share the same spirit but are direct opposites. Nora Pouillon's Greek (and Organic) Macaroni and Cheese couples baked macaroni with an herbal, colorful Greek salad; while James Botsacos's Pastitsio is a sturdy combination of macaroni, cheese, yogurt, meat, tomatoes, spices, and herbs. And a crisp, refreshing Macaroni and Feta Salad is a showcase of Greek flavors.

Allen Susser's Macaroni and Manchego accents Spanish Manchego cheese with tender shallots and fennel. The Swiss contribute a stick-to-the-ribs winter Swiss Mac with Potatoes; and my favorite Sweet Noodle and Cheese Kugel is an Eastern European Jewish dish passed down from generation to generation, rich with vanilla and creamy cheeses.