APPENDIX A – SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES
The needles below are listed alphabetically by type. The letter designation for Schmetz needles is in parentheses. I have used the following brands with success: Abca, Groz-Beckert, Lammertz, Organ, Schmetz, Singer, and Sullivans.
Ballpoint (H-SUK)
Sizes: 70/10-100/16
Description: Medium ballpoint (Point spreads yarns to slip between them)
Use: Knits, especially bulky knits, elastics, and spandex
Denim (HJ)
Sizes: 70/10-110/18
Description: Sharp point, stiff shank to resist deflection
Use: Densely woven fabrics, denim, canvas, lace, shantung, embroideries
Embroidery (HE)
Sizes: 75/11;90/14
Description: Very light ballpoint, special scarf, deep groove, large eye
Use: Decorative stitching with metallic and machine embroidery threads; does not shred the thread
Hemstitch needle
Sizes: 100-110
Description: Very wide blade, sharp point
Use: Decorative stitching
Leather (HLL, NTW)
Sizes: 70/10-110/18
Description: Cutting point
Use: Leather, vinyl, heavy Nonwoven synthetics
Microtex (HM)
Sizes: 60/8-90/14
Description: Very sharp point
Use: Lightweight woven fabrics, chiffon, satin, lace, embroideries, shantung
Quilting (HQ)
Sizes: 75/11-90/14
Description: Slightly tapered sharp point
Use: Multiple layers, bulky seams, densely woven fabrics
Red Band (Singer)
Sizes: 65/9-110/18
Description: Sharp point
Use: Woven fabrics
Self-threading needle (same as calyx-eyed, quick
threading, or slotted needle)
Sizes: 80/12-90/14
Description: Slotted eye to make threading easier
Use: General purpose needle
Serger or Overlock needle
Description: Varies with serger brand
Use: General purpose needle for sergers
Sharp or Standard point (HM,HJ)
Sizes: 60/8-90/14
Description: Very sharp point, slender shaft
Use: Woven fabrics, topstitching
Stretch needle (HS)
Sizes: 75/11;90/14
Description: Fine ballpoint with shaved shank and small hump above eye to prevent skipped stitches
Use: Lingerie, difficult-to-stitch fabrics, faux suede, elastic, stretch knits and wovens
Topstitching (N)
Sizes: 80/12-100/16
Description: Sharp point, extra large eye, and deep groove
Use: Topstitching with heavy threads
Twin needle (Universal)
Sizes: 1.6/80; 2.0/80; 2.5/80;4.0/80; 3.0/90; 4.0/90; 4.0/100; 6.0/100; 8.0/100
Description: Two needles on one shank spaced 1.6mm to 6.0mm apart
Use: Decorative stitching, stretch seams and hems
Universal (H)
Sizes: 60/8- 120/19
Description: Slight ballpoint
Use: Most knits and wovens
Yellow Band (Singer)
Sizes: 65/9-100/16
Description: Slight ballpoint, elongated scarf and shaved shaft
Use: General purpose for knits and many wovens
SPECIALTY NEEDLES
Metafil
Sizes: 70/10-90/14
Description: Large eye, square groove to accommodate rayon and metallic threads
Use: Embroidery, topstitching
Metafil Quilting
Sizes: 80/12
Description: Large eye, square groove
Use: Quilting, topstitching
Metafil twin
Sizes: 2.0/80; 3.0/80; 4.0/80
Description: Large eye, square groove
Use: Decorative stitching, topstitching, hems
Spring needle
Sizes: Universal:70/10-90/14; Embroidery: 75/11; 90/14; Quilting:75/11;90/14
Description: Needle set inside spring
Use: Freehand embroidery, monograms, quilting
Triple needle
Sizes: Triple 2.5,triple 3.0
Description: Three needles on one shank
Use: Decorative stitching
Twin Embroidery
Sizes: 2.0/75; 4.0/75
Description: Two embroidery needles on one shank
Use: Topstitch, pin tucks, decorative stitching
Twin Hemstitch
Description: One regular/one hemstitch needle on one shank
Use: Decorative openwork stitch
Twin Stretch
Sizes: 2.5/75; 4.0/75
Description: Two stretch needles on one shank
Use: Seams, hems, and decorative stitching on knits