Double Cloth
Average
Double cloth is a reversible fabric which can be separated into two pieces of cloth with completely different weaves, colors, or patterns. Generally wool or a wool blend, these fabrics range from lightweight, soft fabrics to heavy, crisp materials.
Double cloth fabrics are particularly attractive when used for unlined garments, but they can also be used for traditional designs. When used for reversible garments, one side will always be more attractive than the other.
Workroom Secrets
Layout/Cutting/Marking: Mark right side of each section with safety pins.
Seams: Double-cloth seams are attractive and inconspicuous.
1. Baste 11.8" (2.8cm) from the edge to avoid an unattractive demarcation line when separating fabrics for double-cloth seams.
2. Separate the layers to the basting.
3. Right sides together, stitch the seams on the outer layer.
Press open, and trim to a scant 1.2" (1.2cm).
4. On the inner layer, trim the seam allowances to 3.8". Fold the edges under, and slipstitch the folds together. Press.
5. Topstitch, if desired.
Hems: Use double-cloth hems on the edges of quality garments.
1. Baste 11.8" (2.8cm) from the edge. Separate to the basting.
2. Trim the hem allowance to 1.4 to 1.2" (6mm-1.2cm). Fold the edges in; slipstitch the folded edges together.
3. Topstitch, if desired.
Edge Finishes: Stay openings with a narrow strip (1.4"/6mm) of lightweight fusible to prevent stretching. Trim the seams to a scant 1.4" (6mm).
Topstitching: Use decorative stitches and/or contrast thread to highlight the topstitching for a more decorative finish. Topstitch seams and darts to hold them flat. To topstitch inconspicuously, topstitch each side close to the seamline. To topstitch edges, use a zipper foot. Topstitch a generous 1.4" (6mm) from the edge to enclose the seam allowances. Use a shim when crossing bulky seams.
Buttonholes:Machine stitch buttonholes with water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric to prevent the stitches from embedding in the fabric.
Embroidery:Use water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric and several layers of lightweight tearaway stabilizer on the wrong side.
Similar Fabrics: Blanket cloth, boiled wool, double knit, loden.
Uses: Unlined or reversible garments, tailored designs, dresses, skirts, jackets, coats, capes, ponchos.
Design Elements: Crisp, tailored details, top stitching, braid trims, bindings.
Warm and comfortable, use double cloth to make this go-anywhere poncho reversible.
(Photo courtesy of KWIK·SEW®.)
Sewing Checklist
Essential Supplies
Needles: Universal (H), sharp (HM, HJ); sizes 70/10-90/14.
Thread: All purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester). Topstitching – machine embroidery/topstitching (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polester, silk), all purpose.
Cutting: Sharp shears, rotary cutter/mat.
Marking: Chalk, clips, pins, tailor’s tacks, thread.
Miscellaneous: Flower pins, shim, safety pins, stabilizers – water soluble, cut away, lightweight tearaway.
Interfacings/Linings/Underlinings:Rarely.
Machine Setup
Stitch Length: 2.5-3mm (8-10spi).
Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.
Feet: Wide straight stitch, zipper, zigzag.
Sewing Basics
Test Garment: Recommended.
Fabric Prep: Preshrink with steam or Dryclean.
Layout: Nap – light to medium-weight, double layer; heavy-weight – single layer.
Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), top-stitched, abutted, decorative serged, strap, double-cloth seam.
Hems: Double-cloth hem, hand (catchstitch, double stitched), topstitched.
Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag, Hong-Kong binding.
Edge Finishes: Foldover braids, bindings, facings to trim, double-cloth hem.
Closures: Buttonholes (machine, corded, inseam), toggles, frogs, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).
Pressing: Medium heat, steam; wool press cloth.
Garment Care: Dryclean.