Sew Any Fabric

Double-faced or two-faced fabrics are reversible fabrics with two attractive sides. They can look the same on both sides or have different colorways or patterns. Unlike double cloth, they cannot be separated into two pieces of cloth.

They are well suited for reversible and unlined jackets and coats, and available in a variety of fibers and fabrications. These fabrics range from lightweight, soft fabrics to heavy, crisp materials. The focus in this chapter is on reversible garments.

Double Faced Fabrics: Blanket cloth, boiled wool, crêpe de Chine, damask, double knit, duplex prints, faux suede, granite cloth, hemp, jacquard patterns, linen, satin backed crepe, wool crepe, woven plaids and stripes.

Uses: Reversible or unlined garments, dresses, skirts, jackets, coats, capes, ponchos.

Design Elements: Simple designs, minimal seams, wrap styles, tailored details, topstitching, dropped shoulders, shirt and kimono sleeves, foldover braids, bindings.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Woven fabrics – sharp (HM), universal (H).

Knit fabrics – stretch (HS), universal (H), ballpoint (H-SUK). Sizes – lightweight, 60/8-70/10; medium-weight, 70/10-80/12; heavy-weight, 80/12-90/14.

Thread: Lightweight fabrics – lightweight (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk), all purpose thread. Medium weight fabrics – all purpose thread.

Heavy-weight fabrics – all purpose, machine embroidery/ topstitching threads. Very heavy-weight fabrics – machine embroidery/topstitching threads.

Cutting: Lightweight fabrics – serrated shears, other fabrics – sharp shears; rotary cutter/mat.

Marking: Chalk, clips, erasable pens, tailor’s tacks, thread.

Miscellaneous: Fine pins, safety pins, water soluble stabilizer.

Interfacings: Depends on the fabric weight, garment type, quality, and structure; same care properties.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: Lightweight wovens – 1.5-1.75mm

(15-18spi). Medium weight wovens – 2-2.5mm (10-12spi); Heavy-weight wovens – 2.5-3mm (8-10spi).

Very heavy-weight wovens – 3-4mm (6-8spi).

Tension: Depends on the fabric.

Feet: Straight stitch, zigzag, roller foot.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Depends on design, fabric, and quality.

Fabric Prep: Machine wash/dry, steam, or Dryclean.

Layout: Depends on fabric.

Seams: Plain, strap, bound, French, faux French, stand-up French, decorative French.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, catchstitch), shirttail, wrong-side out, topstitched.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag, turned under, tricot binding, Hong Kong finish.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, inseam), lacings, button links, toggles, frogs, fabric and ribbon ties.

Pressing: Depends on fiber and fabric structure.

Garment Care: Machine wash/dry; Dryclean.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Examine the fabric to determine if it has a nap. When in doubt, use a nap layout. When both sides look the same, mark the side which you have selected as the “right” side at the outset, using safety pins. All reversible garments are more attractive on one side.

Seams/Reversible Garments: For reversible garments, use seams such as strap, lapped, decorative French, decorative bound, and stand-up French seams which will be attractive on both sides. Decorative French seams are a good choice for lightweight fabrics. There are two versions: stand-up French and topstitched French. To sew stand-up French seams, consider a wider finished seam. Stitch first with right sides together; then stitch with wrong sides together so the finished seam is on the outside. When joining the seamed section to another section, fold the French seam down or toward the back. To sew a topstitched French seam, stitch the seam as usual; press it to one side, and edgestitch flat against the garment.

Seams/Unlined Garments: For unlined garments which are not reversible, you can use any of the seams for reversible garments, but the best choice is generally the simplest and easiest: a narrow seam. To sew, stitch a plain seam, then trim and serge or zigzag

the edges together; or stitch a safety stitch seam. Another attractive seam for jackets and coats is a plain seam with a contrast Hong Kong finish.

Seam/Hem Finishes: A neat finish for reversible designs is to fold under the raw edge of hems or seams, and edgestitch flat. Use bound and Hong Kong finishes only when the fabric is medium to heavy-weight.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self, contrast, trim), foldover braids, and bindings work well on reversible garments as well as unlined items.

Garment Care: Double Faced fabrics can be laundered or Drycleaned, depending on the dyes, finishes, fabric structure, garment design, quality, and use. Better garments will maintain their pristine appearance longer when Drycleaned.

Crepe-back satin—Can’t decide which side to use? Use them both to create a stunning design. (Burda Pattern – 8859, courtesy of Burda.)