Sew Any Fabric

Double knit are medium to heavy-weight warp knits and have little stretch. Generally, made of wool, wool blends, or polyester, they hold their shape well and do not run or ravel.

Fabric Prep: To preshrink wool and wool blends, steam or Dryclean; for polyester, hand wash or machine wash/dry. Purchase an additional 1.4 yard when washing wool/wool blend garments.

Seams: Stabilize seams with stay tape at shoulders, neck, and waist to prevent stretching. (See Any Fabric.)

Topstitching: To highlight the structural details, topstitch seams and edges 1.4" (6mm) to 1.2" (1.2cm) from stitching line or edge. To topstitch inconspicuously, press seams open; topstitch each side close to the seamline.

Hems: When hemming with a blindstitch, take an occasional backstitch. On quality designs, interface hems; on heavy fabrics, double- or triple-stitch hems with the additional rows in the middle of the hem allowance. For a decorative hem, topstitch several rows, or use a twin needle.To prevent rippling, fuse a strip of lightweight knit interfacing to the hem allowance.

Facings: Understitch or topstitch to prevent facings from rolling to the outside.

Buttonholes: Stabilize machine buttonholes with a small strip of fusible interfacing; position the strip with the least amount of stretch parallel to the opening. Use water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric to prevent the stitches from embedding in the fabric.

Zippers: Stay the opening with lightweight selvage to prevent stretching.Hand stitch zippers on quality designs. On heavy fabrics, machine stitch the opening; then sew zipper in by hand. (See Sewing Techniques .)

Underlining: To maintain the shape, use partial underlining for skirt backs and knees of pants.

Pressing: To set creases, saturate a brown paper grocery bag with water.Place the bag over the fabric and iron until the paper is dry.

Similar Fabrics: Blanket cloth, Chinella®, double cloth, duffel, frieze, loden, mackinac, wadmal.

Uses: Unlined or reversible garments, casual or tailored designs, jackets, coats, capes, ponchos, skirts, pants.

Design Elements: Tailored details, structured silhouettes, minimal seaming, decorative seaming, topstitching, foldover braids, bindings, pockets (all types).

A favorite for casual and dressy designs alike, double knits are comfortable to wear and easy to sew. (Photo courtesy of KWIK·SEW®.)

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Universal (H); sizes 70/10-90/14.

Thread: All purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester). Topstitching – machine embroidery/ topstitching (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester), silk buttonhole twist, all purpose threads.

Cutting: Sharp shears.

Marking: Chalk, clips, pins, erasable pens.

Miscellaneous: Flower pins, weights, shim, stay tape, safety pins, stabilizers – water soluble, tearaway, cut away.

Interfacings: Garment details, fusible or sew in.

Linings: Optional, depending on design, quality, and use; same care as garment.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2.5-3mm (8-10spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced.

Machine Feet: Roller, wide straight stitch, even feed, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Optional.

Fabric Prep: Preshrink with steam, Dryclean, or handwash.

Layout: Nap – double layer; heavy – single layer using duplicate pattern pieces.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), taped, topstitched.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag; if lined, none.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, blind catchstitch, catch stitch, double stitched), interfaced, topstitched, twin needle, wrong-side out.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self fabric, lining), bindings, foldover braid, linings.

Closures: Buttonholes (hand, machine, corded, bound, inseam); buttons/loops, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium heat, damp cloth or steam.

Garment Care: Dryclean or machine wash/dry, depending on fiber content, design, quality, and use.