Sew Any Fabric

Embroidered fabrics are embellished with decorative threads, beads, sequins, glitter, paillettes, ribbons, and sparkling chips. Sewn or glued on a variety of background fabrics such as taffeta, wool knits, open raschel knits, satin, chiffon, lace, tulle, silk shantung, cotton and cotton blends, embellishments are applied in dense all-over patterns, random individual motifs, and border designs.

Similar Fabrics: All-over sequined designs, cracked ice, embroidered laces and border designs, beaded knits, chiffons, eyelet, sari cloth, tulle.

Uses: Evening/formal wear, jackets, coats, dresses, blouses, bustiers, skirts, pants, children’s garments.

Design Elements: Minimal seaming, bindings, pockets (inseam). Avoid intricate designs.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies Needles: Sharp (HM, HJ), stretch (HS) universal (H); sizes 60/8-90/14, depending on the background fabric.

Thread: All-purpose or lightweight (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk).

Cutting: Stainless steel shears, flower pins, weights.

Marking: Chalk, clips, tailor’s tacks, thread, safety pins.

Miscellaneous: Old sharp shears, weights, 1.4"

(6mm) ribbon, duplicate pattern pieces, water soluble stabilizers.

Interfacings: sew ins.

Linings/Underlinings: Generally for outerwear, formal designs, and scratchy fabrics.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2-2.5mm (10-12spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.

Feet: Zipper, wide straight stitch, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Recommended.

Fabric Prep: Steam or Dryclean; wash cottons and cotton blends.

Layout: Nap – single layer right side up, duplicate pattern pieces.

Seams: Plain (pressed open), sequin appliqué.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag, bound.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, blind catchstitch, catch stitch), interfaced.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self fabric, lining, bias), bands, bindings, edge-to edge linings.

Closures: Buttons/loops, buttonholes (machine, bound, inseam, corded), ties, snaps, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium heat, press cloth, steam.

Garment Care: Dryclean; launder if the fabric was pretreated.

Fabric Prep: Steam or Dryclean, depending on background fabric. Hand or machine wash cotton and cotton blends, depending on the garment design.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: For easy clean-up, cover the floor and cutting table with a clean sheet. Spread fabric in a single layer with the right side up. To reduce fraying, do not cut until you are ready to sew; after cutting, handle the fabric as little as possible. Use clips sparingly. Avoid erasable pens; they may stain permanently.

Seam/Hem Finishes: For an elegant finish in unlined garments, use a Hong Kong binding with silk chiffon.

Underlinings: To add body to lightweight or soft embroidered fabrics, use silk organza, polyester chiffon, or lightweight sew in interfacings.

Pressing: Test press. Many embroidered and embellished fabrics are easily damaged by steam and high heat. Use a press cloth when pressing the right side. Cover the pressing surface with a thick terry towel to avoid flattening or damaging the embellishments on the fabric.

Garment Care: To protect skirts and pants from clip hanger marks, sew in ribbon hanger loops at the waist.

Designed by Raffaella Galeotafiore, this elegant gown features an allover embroidery pattern with small motifs reapplied at the upper edge of the bodice. (Photo courtesy of Raffaella Galeotafiore and Solotu Design Studio.)