Sew Any Fabric

Faux suede and suede look-alikes are synthetic fabrics. Ultrasuede® is perhaps the best known, but there are many others. These fabrics have no obvious grain, do not fray, tear easily under stress, and are easily damaged by abrasion, hot irons, pins, and machine stitching.

Some, like the original Ultrasuede®, are very crisp while others, like Ultrasuede® Light, are much lighter and softer.

Pattern Prep: To simulate the look of real suede, select a pattern with small garment sections or add seams on larger sections.

Fabric Prep: Check the manufacturer’s recommendations. You can machine wash/dry most faux suedes. Remove from the dryer while damp, shake well, and hang to dry. Do not over-dry.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Mark the nap direction on the wrong side of the fabric with chalk arrows. For a more economical layout, spread the fabric in a single layer, right side up; and use duplicate pattern pieces. Pattern pieces can be tilted very slightly. Use super fine pins to avoid damaging the fabric. Cut sleeves and pants 1" to 2" (2.5-5cm) longer to allow for shortening when the garment is worn.

Stitching: Begin with a new needle in the smallest size that will not skip stitches. Change the needle frequently. If skipped stitches are a problem, insert a new needle; if they persist, use a larger needle and a needle lubricant.

Seams: Generally plain seams are better for dressy designs while Nonwoven flat fell and lapped seams are attractive on sportswear.

To stitch plain seams, use quilting clothes pins, spring hair clips, or a glue stick to baste; or use super fine pins only in the seam allowances. To flatten seams, press the seam open. Brush the open seam with a 50/50 vinegar/water solution; press again and cover with a clapper. Hold the clapper in place about 20 seconds. (Always test for colorfastness before using vinegar on a garment.) Topstitch seams and darts so they will remain flat. Trim close to the stitching. Topstitch sporty designs with a longer stitch 1.4" (6mm) from the seamline. Stabilize all seams which will be stressed.Hems: Topstitch or fuse hems in place.

Buttonholes: Lengthen the stitch for machine buttonholes. To prevent machine stitches embedding in the fabric, stitch with water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric. For more defined buttonholes, cord them.

Linings: Line garments to preserve the shape, reduce clinging, and prevent the color from crocking.

Pressing: Test press on scraps. Faux suedes are very sensitive to hot irons.When pressing the right side, use a press cloth or press with a steamer.

Garment Care: You can machine wash/dry most faux suedes if the design and other elements are washable; but to maintain the garment’s pristine appearance, Dryclean.

Faux Suede Types/Similar Fabrics: Butter-suede, Facile®, Ultrasuede® Elite, Ultrasuede® Light, Ultrasuede® Soft, Sensuede, sherpa, sueded reversible sherpa.

Uses: Tailored designs, casual wear, sportswear, jackets, skirts, outerwear, tote bags.

Design Elements: Simple designs, minimal seaming, extended shoulders, shirt and raglan sleeves. For crisp fabrics – topstitching, structured silhouettes; for softer fabrics – shirring, pleats, draped designs.

Faux suedes are most attractive in simple designs like this suit. (Photo courtesy of KWIK·SEW®.)

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needle type: Stretch (HS), sharp (HM, HJ), universal (H); sizes 70/10-90/14.

Thread: All purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester). Topstitching – all purpose, machine embroidery/topstitching threads.

Cutting: Sharp shears, rotary cutter/mat, duplicate pattern pieces.

Marking: Chalk, clips, erasable pens.

Miscellaneous: Shim, quilting clothes pins or spring hair clips, washable glue stick, temporary spray adhesive, super fine pins, needle lubricant, water soluble stabilizer, fusible web, vinegar, steamer.

Interfacings: Low temp fusibles or sew ins.

Linings: Outerwear, quality garments; same care requirement.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2.5-3mm (8-10spi); top stitching – 3-4mm (6-8spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.

Feet: Teflon, roller, even feed, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Fabric Prep: Machine wash and dry for easier stitching.

Layout: Nap – single layer, right side up.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), topstitched, Nonwoven flat fell, Nonwoven lapped.

Seam/Hem Finishes: None.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self, contrast, faux leather), bindings, ribbings, bands.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, bound, inseam), zippers (machine, invisible).

Pressing: Low heat; press cloth, steamer.

Garment Care: Dryclean or machine wash/dry.