Sew Any Fabric

Real fur is an animal skin with the hair still attached. All furs have two parts: the skin and the fur. Tanned and processed to make it soft and supple, fur can be sheared, bleached, dyed, tipped, stenciled, let out, or curled to make it more interesting and more fashionable. The most common sources for furs are garage sales and thrift shops. Generally they are inexpensive, but the quality and condition will vary.

Fur is warmer than faux fur fabrics. It has a nap, is bulky and easily damaged by ripping; but it is not difficult to sew, and most mistakes can be corrected.

Uses: Jackets, skirts, pants, vests, coats, capes, ponchos, linings, collars, cuffs, hats, muffs, pillows, bedspreads, dog beds.

Design Elements: Simple uncluttered designs, leather or suede trims, inseam pockets, hook and eye fasteners. Avoid patch pockets, intricate details, pleats, gathers, and double-breasted styles.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Leather (HLL, NTW), sharp (HJ); sizes 80/12-100/16.

Thread: All purpose (polyester).

Cutting: Mat knife, sharp shears.

Marking: Chalk, erasable pens, clips, pencil.

Miscellaneous: Flower pins, quilting clothes pins, fabric surgical tape, wire dog comb, masking tape, pencil, mat knife, polyester fleece, sponge, vinegar, twill tape.

Linings: Quality satin lining.

Underlinings: Muslin, hair canvas, polyester fleece.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: Narrow zigzag seams (W,4-L,1); plain seams – 2.5-3mm (8-10spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.

Feet: Zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Recommended.

Layout: Nap – single layer, wrong-side up; duplicate pattern pieces.

Seams: Fur, taped, plain.

Seam/Hem Finishes: None.

Hems: Hand (catchstitch), interfaced, faced.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self cut-on facing, suede, leather), edge to edge lining, bands, bindings, ribbings.

Closures: Large hooks/eyes, covered snaps, buttons/loops, leather tabs, toggles, large zippers (machine), buttonholes (faced, inseam).

Pressing: Low to medium heat; thick towel, press cloth.

Garment Care: Fur clean.

Pattern Prep: To reduce bulk, eliminate non-fitting seams at center back and straight seamlines at the front edges. (See Any Fabric.) If you are using fur seams, trim seam allowances to 1.8" (3mm). On the collar pattern, add a seam at center back. The hair can run away from the center, toward it, or down to the floor.

Fur Prep: To clean a used fur, wipe with a sponge and a 50/50 vinegar/water solution; air dry. Test for colorfastness first.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Mark the fur direction and any pelt markings with chalk on the wrong side. Lay out in single layer, wrong-side out. Use duplicate pattern pieces, and weights or tape the pattern in place. Trace around the pattern with a pencil or erasable marking pen. Before cutting, double check to be sure there is a pair of each section. Use scissor points or a mat knife to cut just the backing. Do not clip-mark when using fur seams.

Stitching: Avoid cotton thread; the tannin in the fur will rot it.Seams: Baste, using quilting clothes pins or flower pins. For fur seams, trim seam allowances to 1.8" (3mm). For stronger seams, tape edges with fabric surgical tape. Before stitching, brush or tape pile away from the edge. Right sides together, stitch (W,4-L,1) so the needle will swing off the fabric edge. Wrong side up, press stitching line with the scissor handles. Use a dog comb to brush the seam on the right side. To stitch plain fur to fabric seams, stitch with the fabric uppermost.

Edge Finishes: Sew 1.2" (1.2cm) twill tape to all unfaced edges. To reduce wear at edges, interface with polyester fleece. To reduce bulk, face hem with lining fabric.

Pockets: Generally inseam pockets are best. Cut the pocket sacks from velveteen or cotton flannel.

Collars/Cuffs: Cut the collar facing from fur or fabric. Cut with 1.4" (6mm) seam allowances. Underline the fur with muslin or polyester fleece.

Garment Care: Hang fur on well padded hanger in a cool closet. To protect from moths, store in a cedar chest or sealed cedar closet. Avoid shoulder strap bags.

Embellish your favorite gown or coat with a touch of mink. (Photo courtesy of PtakCouture.com.)