Sew Any Fabric

Handkerchief linen is a lightweight, crisp fabric. It wrinkles, ravels, does not ease well, has little elasticity, and varies in transparency. It is easily damaged by wax, colored chalk, and erasable pens.

Fabric Preparation: Dryclean or steam dark colors which fade badly and become white at edges. Wash and dry light colors if you plan to wash the garment.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Mark the right side of the fabric with small safety pins. Avoid erasable pens; they may stain permanently.

Stitching: Begin with a new, sharp (HM) needle in the smallest recommended size. Use a wide straight stitch or roller foot to reduce stitching problems; or use a zigzag foot, and move the needle to the right hand position. When stitching curves, shorten the stitch length.

Seams: Use topstitched seams and hems for unlined and washable designs. For dressy designs, topstitch close to the seam. For sportswear, topstitch 1.4"(6mm) away or use a wide twin needle to simulate flat fell seams. When both sides of the garment show, use French, faux French, or strap seams.

Edge Finishes: To avoid unattractive facing shadows, replace facings with bindings, bands, or ribbings. When facings cannot be avoided, cut them straight or make them a design element.

Buttonholes: Machine stitch with a sharp needle and lightweight embroidery thread (60/2). To add crispness before stitching, spray the buttonhole area with spray starch.

Pressing: Use a cooler iron than for regular linen. To avoid slicking dark fabrics, press from the wrong side or use a press cloth.

Embroidery: Handkerchief linen is an easy fabric to embroider. Use water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric with tearaway or cut-away stabilizer underneath.

Sophisticated enough to wear alone or layered, this linen easy shirt is cool and smart for warm weather dressing.(Butterick Pattern-3473, Linda Allard Ellen Tracy; photo courtesy of The McCall Pattern Co.)

Similar Fabrics: Cotton organdy, dimity, cotton dobby, dotted swiss, eyelet, eyelash voile, gazar, lawn, leno, marquisette, organzine, satin faced organza, shirtings, voile.

Uses: Reversible or unlined garments, casual jackets, blouses, skirts, lingerie, interfacings, men’s shirts, and children’s garments.

Design Elements: Topstitching, crisp silhouettes, ruffles, gathers, tucks, dropped shoulders, lace trims, lace insertions, decorative embroidery.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Sharp (HM, HJ), universal (H); sizes 70/10-90/14; twin needles.

Thread: Lightweight or all purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk). Topstitching – lightweight machine embroidery/topstitching or all purpose.

Cutting: Sharp shears, rotary cutter/mat.

Marking: Chalk, clips, pins.

Miscellaneous: Safety pins, spray starch, super fine pins, stabilizers – water soluble, burn-away, tearaway, cut away.

Interfacings: Optional; self fabric, lightweight sew ins or fusibles.

Linings/Underlinings: Rarely.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2.5-3mm (8-10spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced.

Feet: Wide straight stitch, roller, zigzag; small hole throat plate.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Optional, depending on design.

Fabric Prep: For washable garments, hand or machine wash/dry; otherwise Dryclean. Fabric will soften some when washed.

Layout: Without nap – double layer.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), topstitched, bound, strap, French, faux French.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, pinked, zigzag, bound.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, catchstitch), topstitched, twin needle, wrong-side out, shirttail, pin.

Edge Finishes: Facings, bindings, ribbing, bands.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, corded, bound, inseam); buttons/loops, ties, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium to high heat, damp cloth or steam.

Garment Care: Machine wash/dry casual designs if fabric was pretreated; Dryclean quality garments.