Sew Any Fabric

Jersey is a single knit with lengthwise ribs on one side and horizontal rows on the back. Generally the ribs are on the right side. Available in wool, silk, cotton, nylon, and polyester, jersey is soft and drapeable with moderate stretch. It runs from both ends, will not hold a crease, and tends to bag and sag.

Jersey Types/Similar Fabrics: Interlock knits, jacquard jersey, lisle, milanese, pointelle, simplex, single knits, tricot, wool jersey.

Uses: Tee shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, pants, lingerie, evening wear, casual jackets, coats.

Design Elements: Soft, fluid or draped designs, unpressed pleats, gathers, casings, ribbings, bindings.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Universal (H), stretch (HS), ballpoint (H-SUK), twin needle; sizes 60/8-80/12.

Thread: All purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk). Topstitching – all purpose or fine machine embroidery thread (60/2).

Cutting: Sharp shears, weights, tissue.

Marking: Chalk, clips, erasable pens, thread, tailor’s tacks.

Miscellaneous: Super fine pins, lightweight zippers, nylon stocking scrap, stabilizers – water soluble, cut-away.

Interfacings: Detail areas; lightweight fusibles or sew ins, bias cut organza or China silk.

Linings/Underlinings: Optional, same care as garment. Cut on bias to retain stretch.

Machine Setup

Stitch length: 2-2.5mm (10-12spi), narrow zigzag (W,.5-L,1.5)

Tension: Lightly balanced.

Feet: Wide straight stitch, roller, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Fabric Prep: Preshrink cottons and synthetics, machine wash/dry; non-washables, steam or Dryclean.

Layout: Nap – double layer.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), zigzagged (W,.5-L,1.5), topstitched, twin needle, safety stitch serged, tissue-stitched, taped.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag, none.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, catchstitch), pinked, topstitched, twin needle, lettucing, fused, interfaced.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self fabric, bias), bindings, ribbings.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, corded, bound, inseam); buttons/loops, ties, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium to high heat, depending on the fiber; damp cloth or steam.

Garment Care: Dryclean, machine wash/dry, depending on fiber.

Workroom Secrets Fabric Prep: To preshrink cotton and cotton blend fabrics, machine wash/dry three times. Steam or Dryclean silk and wool.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Let fabric relax overnight before cutting. To find right side, stretch crosswise; edge will curl to the right side. To cut silk jersey, pin to tissue. Lay out pattern; cut through fabric and tissue.

Seams: Check needle for burrs before stitching by stitching through a nylon stocking scrap. To prevent snagging on the feed dogs, tissue stitch seams. For more elastic seams, use polyester or textured thread and zigzag (W,.5-L,1.5), or use a twin needle seam. Narrow serged seams are a good choice for casual garments. Tape seams at shoulders, neck, and waist to prevent stretching.

Hems: Let hems hang at least 24 hours before hemming. To avoid runs, zigzag (W,.5-L,1) close to the raw edge. Use loose blindstitches, blind catchstitches, or catchstitches to hem quality designs. Topstitch everyday garments with a straight or twin needle. To prevent rippling, fuse a strip of lightweight knit interfacing to the hem allowance. For a soft, feminine look, use a lettuce edge.

Facings: Understitch or topstitch to prevent facings from rolling to the outside.

Buttonholes: Stabilize buttonhole area with a strip of interfacing. Use water soluble stabilizer on top of fabric to prevent the stitches from embedding in the fabric. Stitch with fine embroidery thread (60/2). Consider buttons/loops for wool or silk jerseys.

Zippers: Stabilize the opening to prevent stretching. Hand stitch zippers on quality designs.

Embroidery: Use water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric and cutaway stabilizer on wrong side.

This go-anywhere ensemble in jersey will be a welcome addition to any wardrobe. (Petite Plus Patterns® – 102, 601; Photo courtesy of Petite Plus Patterns®.)