Matelassé

Average

Matelassé is a blistered or quilted-effect fabric with a fine, plainweave on the back. Made in all fiber types, it may be bulky, difficult to ease, and ravel badly. Its uneven surface helps to hide stitching irregularities.

Similar Fabrics: Blister, brocade, brocatelle, broché, cloqué, cotton suiting, crinkle, embossed, imperial brocade, plissé, soufflé, tapestry, upholstery, upholstery satin, venetian.

Uses: Special occasion and formal wear, suits, coats, dresses, skirts, pants, handbags.

Design Elements: Simple designs to showcase the fabric. Avoid intricate seams, fussy details, and close fitting designs.

Sewing Checklist

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Essential Supplies

Needles: Sharp (HM), universal (H); sizes 70/10-80/12.

Thread: All purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk). Serger – lightweight serger thread, textured thread.

Cutting: Sharp shears, rotary cutter/mat.

Marking: Chalk, clips, pins, tailor’s tacks, thread.

Miscellaneous: Super fine pins, weights, covered snaps.

Interfacings: sew in.

Lining: Generally on jackets, but not necessarily on soft skirts and pants.

Underlinings: Frequently; organza, China silk, soft organza, voile, batiste.

Machine Setup

Stitch length: 2-3mm (8-12spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced.

Feet: Wide straight stitch, zigzag, roller.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Recommended.

Fabric Prep: Preshrink with steam or Dryclean.

Layout: Nap – double or single layer.

Seams: Plain (pressed open), piped, lapped.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, catchstitch), interfaced, double stitched.

Seam/Hem finishes: Serged, zigzag; if lined, none.

Edge Finishes: Facings (lining, self fabric, bias), bindings, edge to edge linings.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, bound, inseam) buttons/loops, zippers (hand, invisible), covered snaps.

Pressing: Low to medium heat, steam.

Garment Care: Dryclean.

Workroom Secrets

Stitching: Stitch carefully; most matelassé fabrics are easily marred by ripping.

Underlinings: When making a suit, underline the skirt with silk organza, soft organza, or voile to maintain the suppleness and reduce seam slippage on seams which will be stressed. Underline the jacket with a crisp woven interfacing in cotton or cotton/blend to add body and maintain the design’s shape.

Buttonholes: To prevent stitches from embedding in the fabric, stitch with water soluble stabilizer on top of fabric. To stitch inconspicuous buttonholes, use fine embroidery thread (60/2).

Zippers: To prevent the opening stretching, stabilize opening with a lightweight interfacing.

Pressing: Test press to determine the appropriate heat, moisture, and pressure for the fiber content. When steaming, watch for shrinking. Always use a press cloth when pressing the right side. To avoid flattening the fabric, cover pressing surface with a thick towel. To prevent seam and hem impressions, use a seam roll and brown paper strips under the edges.

Garment Care: Store special-occasion garments on well-padded hangers.

Designed by Geoffrey Beene, this timeless design showcases a luxurious matelassé fabric. (Vogue Pattern, Geoffrey Beene-2232, courtesy of The McCall Pattern Co.)