Sew Any Fabric

Melton is a bulky wool coating with a thick nap. Warm, water and wind resistant, it frays little, is difficult to ease and press, and wears badly at edges.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Spread the melton in a single layer with wrong-side up. Use duplicate pattern pieces. Cut the seams 1" (2.5mm) wide so they will lie flatter when pressed.

Stitching: To position bulky fabrics under the presser foot, cover the fabric with a small piece of water soluble stabilizer so you can slide it under the foot easily.

Seams: Press seams open; then topstitch each side to hold the seams flat. For unlined garments, serge seam edges, then topstitch; or zigzag edges flat against garment.

Facings: For a separate facing, stitch the facing and garment together. Press the seam flat; then press it open. Trim the seam evenly to a scant 1.4" (6mm). Fold the facing to the wrong side, and topstitch a generous 1.4" (6mm) from the edge. To avoid bulk at the front edges, cut the facing in one piece with the front. Stabilize the folded edge with a strip of lightweight selvage so the edges will hang perpendicular to the floor even when the garment is unfastened.

Topstitching: Topstitching is especially attractive on simple, uncluttered designs; and it helps control bulk and hold seams flat. When topstitching over bulky seams, use a shim to balance the foot and prevent skipped stitches.

Pockets: Stabilize pocket openings to prevent stretching. To reduce bulk, line patch pockets and flaps with lining.

Pressing: Cover the pressing surface with wool. When pressing the right side, use a wool press cloth to avoid damaging the nap.

This handsome casual jacket is easy-fitting and comfortable to wear. (Photo courtesy of KWIK·SEW®.)

Similar Fabrics: Astrakan, baize, blazer cloth, bolivia, blanket cloth, buffalo cloth, camel’s hair, cashmere, cavalry, chinchilla, coatings, duffel, fleece, friezé, homespun coating, jumbo corduroy, kersey, loden cloth, lumberjack, mackinac, molleton, ottoman, polo cloth, ratiné, wool fleece, wool velour, zibeline.

Design Elements: Simple structured designs, top stitching, fur or stand collars. Avoid fussy details, gathers, pleats.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Universal (H); sizes 80/12-100/16.

Thread: All-purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester). Topstitching – machine embroidery/ topstitching (cotton, polyester, silk, rayon).

Cutting: Large, sharp shears; duplicate pattern pieces.

Marking: Chalk, clips, tailor’s tacks, thread.

Miscellaneous: Flower pins, shim, water soluble stabilizer.

Interfacings: sew ins, hair canvas; fusibles, knit.

Lining: Generally (Bemberg or silk); underlining, rarely.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2.5-3mm (8-10spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.

Feet: Wide straight stitch, zipper, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Fabric Prep: Steam or dry clean.

Layout: Nap – single layer, right side up.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), topstitched, abutted.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, blind catchstitch, catch stitch), double- or triple-stitched, interfaced, topstitched.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag, tricot bound, Hong Kong binding, seam tape; if lined, none.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self fabric, lining), bindings.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, bound, inseam), buttons/loops, zippers (machine, decorative), toggles, frogs.

Pressing: Medium heat, steam; wool press cloth, clapper, point presser, needleboard.

Garment Care: Dryclean.