Sew Any Fabric

Microfibers are finer than silk filaments. Made of manufactured fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, and rayon, they can be woven, knit, or Nonwoven and used for a variety of fabric types and textures from sheer chiffon to velvet to synthetic suede and insulating material.

They are lightweight and combine the aesthetics and comfort of natural fibers with the easy care, durability, and versatility of manufactured fibers. Some fray badly; others, very little. All are difficult to ease.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Set pins parallel to selvage. Cut with serrated shears or rotary cutter/mat. Keep extra rotary cutting blades on hand; microfibers dull them quickly. Erasable pens are very convenient for marking, but they may stain permanently.

Stitching: Begin with a new needle with a sharp point (HM, HJ). Replace needles frequently.

Seams: When basting, use super fine pins. To reduce puckered seams, avoid seams on the straight grain. (See Any Fabric.) Hold the fabric firmly in front of and behind the foot when stitching or stitch with a narrow zigzag (W,.5-L1.5). To flatten seams, topstitch.

Seam/Hem Finishes: To reduce thread imprints when serging, use textured thread in the loopers.

Buttonholes: Machine stitch with fine machine embroidery or very fine serger thread and a new needle in a small size.

Sleeves: To sew sleeves smoothly, reduce the ease in the cap. (See Any Fabric.)

Pressing: Test press. Microfibers are easily damaged by heat and difficult to press. Always use a press cloth. To press seams, place on a seam roll or seam stick. Brush with 50/50 solution of white vinegar/ water; press and cover with a clapper until cool.

Garment Care: To avoid permanent stains, remove any grease spots before laundering. I use talcum powder or fuller’s earth—diatomaceous earth used by auto shops to absorb grease and in pools as a filter— which will absorb most stains.

Softly draped, this microfiber design is comfortable to wear and resistant to wrinkles. (Photo courtesy of New Look Patterns.)

Microfiber Fabrics: MicroFinesse, MicroMattique®, Micro-Supplex®, MicroSupreme®, rayon twill, sandwashed rayon, sandwashed Tencel®, Trevira Finess®, Satin Gab, Silky Touch®, Supplex®.

Uses: Casual sportswear, jackets, coats, pants, shorts, tops, raincoats, sleepwear, linings.

Design Elements: Minimal seaming; kimono, raglan, dolman, cap, and shirt sleeves; gathers, drapes, cowl necklines, and topstitching. Avoid sharp creases, tucks, pressed pleats, and designs which require hand sewing.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Sharp (HM, HJ), universal (H); sizes 60/8-70/12.

Thread: Lightweight threads (polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk), textured thread. Topstitching – lightweight, all purpose.

Cutting: Sharp serrated shears, rotary cutter/mat.

Marking: Chalk, clips, erasable pens.

Miscellaneous: Super fine pins, brush, vinegar, water soluble stabilizer, talcum powder or fuller’s earth.

Interfacings: Very lightweight sew in or low-temp fusible, polyester organdy, Sewin’ Sheer™; same care as fabric.

Linings/Underlinings: Optional, same care as fabric.

Machine Setup

Stitch length: 1-2mm (12-24spi), narrow zigzag (W,1-L,1) Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.

Feet: Wide straight stitch, roller, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Fabric Prep: Machine wash/dry.

Layout: Without nap – double layer.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), topstitched.

Hems: Topstitched, fused, hand (blindstitch); avoid very narrow machine-rolled.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, pinked.

Edge Finishes: Facings, bindings, ribbings, bands, casings.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine), buttons/loops, ties, toggles, zippers (machine, invisible, separating, decorative).

Pressing: Low to medium heat; steam, press cloth, seam roll, seam stick, clapper.

Garment Care: Machine wash/dry; better garments, Dryclean.