Net and Tulle
Very Easy
Net and tulle are open-mesh fabrics. Available in cotton, silk, nylon, and polyester, they are easy to sew, transparent, do not fray, and have no grain or right side. They have more stretch in the width, tear easily, and are easily damaged with the point of the iron. When sewing stretch tulle, review Stretch Knit page 83.
Workroom Secrets
Layout/Cutting/Marking: When cutting multiple layers, use safety pins or flower pins to hold the layers together. To economize, pattern pieces can be tilted slightly; but you should avoid cutting some pieces on the straight grain and some on the crossgrain.
Stitching: To avoid snagging the net, use a roller or wide straight stitch foot or wrap the toes of the zigzag foot with transparent tape. To avoid tearing the net on the feed dogs, place a stabilizer under the net. When stitching nets with large holes, shorten the stitch length. To prevent puckered seams, stitch slowly .
Seam Finishes: To avoid scratchy seams, bind seams with tricot or flesh colored chiffon. When both sides of the garment show, use French or faux French seams.
Edge Finishes: To avoid snagging your nylon hose, bind edges of net skirts or petticoats with ribbon, tricot, or fabric. To finish necklines and armholes inconspicuously, use narrow tulle or flesh colored silk facings. To give hems more definition, use horsehair braid or zigzag over monofilament thread. To create decorative hems, use a merrow stitch, narrow zigzag, bias binding, or ribbon facing on the right side.
Underlinings: Net is an excellent support material, but it may have too much stretch in the width to stabilize the fashion fabric. If so, cut the net on the crossgrain. When making sleeve boosters to support gathered sleeve caps, cut a football shape about 10" (25cm) long from the net. Fold it in half lengthwise and gather the raw edges. Sew it into the armhole at the top of the cap. Use a skirt booster to support heavy, full skirts. Cut a net strip 60"-72" (150-180cm) wide and 18" (45cm) long. Fold the net in half; stitch 3.4" (2cm) from the fold. Insert narrow braided elastic; pull up the elastic until it fits the waist comfortably.Stitch through all layers at each end; trim, and sew on a hook and eye at the waist.
Pressing: Avoid hot irons. Use a press cloth or tissue to press. To restore crispness, use spray starch.
Designed by Joi Mahon, this stunning gown features 100 yards of hand-dyed tulle skirt trimmed with satin-band hems and a beaded bodice. (Photo courtesy of Joi Mahon, Dress Forms Design Studio, LLC.)
Similar Fabrics: Athletic mesh, bobbinet, embroidered net, English net, illusion, maline, metallic net, point d’esprit, stretch tulle.
Uses: Special occasion and evening designs, wedding veils, petticoats, costumes, underlining, interfacing, sleeve boosters.
Design Elements: Minimal seaming, full skirts, bands, bindings, ribbon facings.
Sewing Checklist
Essential Supplies
Needles: Universal (H); sizes 70/10-80/12.
Thread: All-purpose (polyester, cotton, cotton covered polyester).
Cutting: Shears, rotary cutter/mat.
Marking: Clips, safety pins.
Miscellaneous: Flower pins, safety pins, transparent tape, spray starch, tricot binding, stabilizer.
Interfacings: self fabric.
Linings/Underlinings: Use for modesty or design.
Machine Setup
Stitch Length: 1.75-2.5mm (10-15spi).
Tension: Lightly balanced.
Feet: Wide straight stitch, roller, zigzag.
Sewing Basics
Test Garment: Rarely required.
Fabric Prep: Press to remove wrinkles.
Layout: Without nap – double layer.
Seams: Plain (open or closed), narrow, double stitched, French, faux French, safety stitch serged.
Seam/Hem Finishes: None, serged, bindings (tricot, tulle, chiffon).
Hems: None, narrow, merrow, horsehair braid, lace, wired.
Edge Finishes: Unfinished, bindings and bands (lightweight silk, satin, ribbon, tricot), facings (tulle, lightweight silk, ribbon).
Closures: Buttons/loops, buttonholes (machine, bound) covered snaps.
Pressing:Warm, dry heat; press cloth.
Garment Care: Machine wash/dry or Dryclean, depending on fiber and garment design.