Sew Any Fabric

Pleated fabrics can be purchased or custom made of manufactured or natural fibers and heat set to hold their pleats permanently. They are generally pleated on the crossgrain. Many fabrics do not drape well and are easily damaged by careless handling.

Pleated Types and Similar Fabrics: Accordian, crystal, marii, and sunburst pleating; crinkle fabrics, plissé.

Design Details: Minimal seaming, elastic casings, bound edges, lettuce hems, surplice necklines.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Sharp (HM, HJ), universal (H); sizes 60/8-80/12.

Thread: All-purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk), nylon, monofilament.

Cutting: Shears, rotary cutter/mat, duplicate pattern pieces.

Marking: Chalk, clips, pins, erasable pens.

Miscellaneous: Monofilament thread, 20-lb. fishing line, stay tape, vinegar, spray bottle, 1.4" (6mm) ribbon, safety pins, small trimming scissors.

Interfacings: Avoid fusibles.

Linings/Underlinings: Outerwear, quality garments.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2-2.5mm (10-12spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.

Feet: Zigzag, wide straight stitch.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Rarely required.

Fabric Prep: Rarely needed.

Layout: Without nap – single layer, right side up.

Seams: Plain (pressed closed), safety stitch serged, taped.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, catchstitch), machine rolled, pin, lettuce, merrow, satin-stitch, selvage.

Edge Finishes: Facings (smooth fabric, tulle, tricot, organza), bands, bindings, casings.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine), buttons/ loops, zippers (invisible, hand, machine).

Pressing: Warm, dry setting.

Garment Care: Dryclean.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Spread fabric in a single layer, right side up. Smooth it until it lies flat without stretching. Most pleated fabrics do not have a nap. Lay out pattern pieces so the grainline is parallel to pleats. Use duplicate pattern pieces to avoid cutting two left sleeves. Place pins in the seam allowances.

Stitching: To avoid distorting seams and edges, use the pattern pieces as a guide to stabilize the neckline, armholes, and all seams on the bias or crossgrain with lightweight selvage or tape.(See Any Fabric.)

Hems: For a quick and easy finish, place the selvage edge at the hemline. For fluted edges, turn under the selvage and stretch; zigzag (W,2-L,1). For more fluting, zigzag over monofilament nylon or 20-lb. fishing line. If there is no selvage at the hem edge, use small scissors to trim close to the stitching. For a softer hem, turn under 1.4" (6mm) and blindstitch by hand. If desired, use small glass beads to give the hem weight.

Edge Finishes: Bias bindings made from unpleated self- or contrast fabrics are particularly attractive. When using pleated self fabric, stretch and pin the fabric flat. Spray with white vinegar and cover with a damp cloth. Use a hot iron and press quickly until dry. Repeat as needed until flat.

Underlinings: To stabilize garment sections and control stretch, underline with organza or other lightweight silks.

Closures: Zippers and buttonholes are less conspicuous when placed parallel to the pleats. When the pleats are perpendicular to a zipper opening, bind the edges of the opening with self fabric before setting the zipper.

Garment Care: To protect skirts and pants from clip hanger marks, sew in ribbon hanger loops at the waist.

“Go for Baroque” designed by Marinda Stewart for the Fairfield “Heart and Soul”Fashion Show 1999-2000, the simple pleated skirt is the perfect companion for the richly embellished jacket. (Design 163; photo courtesy of Frank Biemer and Fairfield Processing Corporation, Inc.)