Sew Any Fabric

The oldest manufactured fiber, rayon was introduced in 1884 and called “artificial silk.” The name “rayon” was adopted in 1924. A cellulosic fiber, it is made from wood pulp and passed through spinnerettes to form filaments.

A very versatile fiber, rayon can be made to look like cotton, linen, wool, or silk. It is known for its softness, drapeability, sheen, and absorbency. Comfortable to wear, easy to dye, and economical, it is resistant to moths, static electricity, and pilling. It ravels badly, fades, deteriorates when exposed to light for long periods, burns rapidly, and shrinks.

Most rayons are made by the viscose process. It is called “rayon” in the United States, “viscose” and “modal” in the United Kingdom, and “fibranne” in France. All are similar in quality.

There are three types of viscose rayon: regular, high tenacity, and high-wet-modulus. High tenacity rayons are stronger and more resistant to abrasion and wrinkling. High-wet-modulus rayons are firmer than regular viscose, stronger when wet or dry, and absorb less moisture.

Cupramonium rayon is made by a different process. Used to make chiffon, satin, net, ninon, and other sheer fabrics, the filaments are finer and stronger than viscose. Bemberg is a high-quality silk-like lining.

Uses: Accessories, blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, pants, sportswear, suits.

Burn Test: Rayon burns rapidly with an afterglow, leaving a small amount of light, fluffy ash. It smells like paper or rags.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Woven fabrics – sharp (HM), universal (H). Knit fabrics – stretch (HS), universal (H), ballpoint (H-SUK). Sizes – lightweight, 60/8-70/10; medium-weight, 70/10-80/12; heavyweight, 80/12-90/14.

Thread: Lightweight fabrics – lightweight (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk), all purpose thread.

Medium weight fabrics – all purpose thread. Heavyweight fabrics – all purpose, machine embroidery/top stitching threads. Very heavy-weight fabrics – machine embroidery/topstitching threads.

Cutting: Lightweight fabrics – serrated shears; other fabrics – sharp shears; rotary cutter/mat.

Marking: Chalk, clips, erasable pens, pins.

Miscellaneous: Fine pins, water soluble stabilizer.

Interfacings/Linings/Underlinings: All types, depending on the fabric structure and garment design.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: Lightweight fabrics – 1.5-1.75mm (15-18spi). Medium weight fabrics – 2-2.5mm (10-12spi).

Heavy-weight fabrics – 2.5-3mm (8-10spi). Very heavyweight fabrics – 3-4mm (6-8spi). All weights – zigzag (W,.5-L,2).

Tension: Depends on the fabric.

Feet: Straight stitch, zigzag, roller foot.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Rarely required.

Fabric Prep: Machine wash/dry, steam, or Dryclean.

Layout: Double layer without nap.

Seams: All types.

Hems/Edge Finishes: All types, depending on fabric and design.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, pinked, zigzag.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine), buttons/loops, ties, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium heat; press cloth and steam.

Garment Care: Clean the garment using the method to preshrink.

Rayon Fabrics/Trademarks: Challis, chiffon, crepe, damask, Fibro®, Galaxy, interfacings, linings, net, rayon blends, sandwashed, satin, slinky, velour, velvet, Viscose by Lenzing.

Washability depends on the rayon type, fabric weave, and garment design. Many rayons will shrink and waterspot if laundered. It has progressive shrinkage and may waterspot or streak when wet. Machine wash on gentle or hand wash in cold water with cold rinse; machine dry on low and remove while damp. Shake well and hang to dry on a plastic hanger. Using medium heat, press as needed from the wrong side before the garment dries. When pressing from the right side, use a press cloth. When hand washing, rinse thoroughly. Press excess water out; do not wring or twist.

Garment Care:If the fabric was preshrunk, launder it using the same method. Dryclean it to maintain the garment’s pristine appearance.

Soft and sheer, this rayon georgette skirt features a unique stripe design. (Burda Pattern – 8666; photo courtesy of Burda.)