Sew Any Fabric

Sometimes called the queen of fibers, silk is the only natural filament fiber and the most luxurious. Silks are generally selected for their beauty, not their durability.

Comfortable to wear, silk is warm in winter and cool in summer. It is resilient and elastic, holds its shape, resists wrinkling, and absorbs moisture well. It is available in a variety of fabrications from soft and sheer to crisp and heavy. Many are easily damaged by needles, pins, ripping, improper pressing, and perspiration.

Fabric Prep: Depends on manufacturer’s recommendation, fabric structure, garment design, quality, and use. Silk does not shrink but many silk fabrics do.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Generally a nap layout is best, even though the fabric does not have an obvious nap or one-way pattern. When marking on the body of the garment, mark lightly to avoid marring the fabric. Use only super fine pins or needles, tailor’s tacks, or thread; avoid erasable pens, colored or wax chalk.

Seams/Hems: Depends on the fabric weight, structure, and transparency and garment quality, design, use, and care. Wider seams will press and drape better.

Interfacings/Linings/Underlinings: Depends on the fabric weight, garment type, quality, and structure; same care properties.

Pressing: Test press; silks are easily damaged by improper pressing, hot irons, and waterspots. When using steam, use a press cloth or be sure that the iron does not spit and sputter.

Drycleaned, depending on the dyes, finishes, fabric structure, garment design, quality, and use.

Dryclean in order to preserve the original hand and maintain the fabric’s pristine appearance.

Designed by Diane Tatara, using PatternMaster Boutique™, this elegant caftan showcases a dazzling silk chiffon border design.(Photo courtesy of Wild Ginger Software®.)

Silk Fabrics: Bengaline, brocade, charmeuse, chiffon, China silk, crepe de chine, doupioni, faille, fuji silk, gazar, georgette, grosgrain, habutai, honan, jacquard silk, jersey, marquisette, matelassé, matka, mikado silk, moiré, organza, ottoman, peau de soie, pongee, repp, satin, satin-faced crepe, shantung, silk noil, suiting, surah, taffeta, tussah, velvet, voile.

Burn test: Silk burns slowly, sputters, forming tiny bubbles along the burned edge. It is self-extinguishing, and leaves crushable black beads.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles:Woven fabrics – sharp (HM), universal (H). Knit fabrics – stretch (HS), universal (H), ballpoint (H-SUK).Sizes – lightweight fabrics, 60/8-70/10; Medium weight fabrics, 70/10-80/12; heavy-weight fabrics, 80/12-90/14; very heavy-weight fabrics, 90/14-120/20.

Thread: Lightweight fabrics – lightweight (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk), all purpose. Medium weight fabrics – all purpose. Heavy-weight fabrics all purpose, machine embroidery/ topstitching threads. Very heavy-weight fabrics – embroidery/topstitching threads.

Cutting: Lightweight fabrics – serrated shears; other fabrics – very sharp shears; all fabrics – rotary cutter/mat, duplicate pattern pieces.

Marking: Chalk, clips, super fine pins, tailor’s tacks, thread.

Miscellaneous: Super fine pins, water soluble stabilizer.

Interfacings/Linings/Underlinings: All types depending on the fabric structure and garment design.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: Lightweight fabrics – 1.5-1.75mm (15-18spi). Medium weight fabrics – 2-2.5mm (10-12spi).

Heavy-weight fabrics – 2.5-3mm (8-10spi). Very heavyweight fabrics – 3-4mm (6-8spi). All weights – zigzag (W,.5-L,2).

Tension: Depends on the fabric.

Feet: Straight stitch, even feed, roller, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Recommended for quality fabrics and intricate designs.

Fabric Prep: Depends on fabric, garment design, quality, and use.

Layout: Nap – Single layer when matching patterns.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed); lightweight and sheer fabrics, French, faux French.

Hems/Edge Finishes: All types, depending on fabric and design.

Seam/Hem Finishes: All types. Avoid bulky finishes on lightweight fabrics.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, bound, inseam), buttons/ loops, ties, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium heat; press cloth and steam.

Garment Care: Dryclean quality garments. Hand wash/line dry lingerie silks.