Sew Any Fabric

Silk suitings range from firmly woven shantungs to unique loosely woven tweeds. Many are bulky with slubs, thick ribs, and long floats which make them pick, pull, and ravel badly.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Many silk suitings stretch badly. Do not allow them to hang off the table when cutting. Use weights, temporary pattern adhesive, or flower pins. To match patterns, use single layer and duplicate pattern pieces. For fabrics which fray badly, cut 1" (2.5cm) seams. Before moving the sections, spray cut edges lightly with seam sealant, thin solution of white glue and water, or spray starch.

Use small safety pins to mark the right side of the fabric and construction symbols.

Stitching: To prevent underlayer creep, use a roller or even feed foot, hold the fabric firmly in front and behind the presser foot. Stitch several inches, then rest; raise and lower the foot; and stitch again. Tissue stitch seams as needed. Use polyester thread and a narrow zigzag (W,.5-L,2) for more elastic seams.

Seams: Stabilize necklines, shoulder seams, buttonholes, and zipper openings with stay tape. (See Any Fabric.) When it is difficult to match fabric patterns, piped seams are a good choice.

Seam/Hem Finishes: If the fabric frays badly, serge or bind seams before assembling. Work carefully to avoid changing or varying the seam allowance widths. On unlined garments, finish quality garments with a Hong Kong finish using silk chiffon or China silk. Use tricot bindings on everyday designs. Avoid double-fold bias bindings; they are too bulky and may show through.

Buttonholes: For more definition on machine stitched buttonholes, use water soluble stabilizer on top of fabric and/or cord the buttonholes. Underlinings: Use sew ins for stability and lightweight fusibles for added structure. sew in underlinings are more tactile than fusibles.

Pressing: To avoid flattening the fabric, cover pressing surface with thick terry towel. Use a press cloth to prevent iron from snagging fabric.

This fabulous swing coat is from the Custom Couture Collection by Claire Shaeffer. (Vogue Pattern – 7539; courtesy of The McCall Pattern Co.)

Similar Fabrics: Doupioni, handwovens, Indian tussah, heavy spun hopsacking, matka, muggah, raw silk, raj Indian silk, monk’s cloth, shantung, silk/linen blend, silk tweed.

Uses: Tailored or unstructured designs, coats, jackets, straight skirts, pants, dresses, and wraps.

Design Elements: Simple designs, minimal seaming, pleats, pockets (all types), collars (all types), piped seams.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Sharp (HM, HJ), universal (H); sizes 70/10-90/14, depending on fabric weight.

Thread: All purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk). Topstitching – all purpose, machine embroidery/ topstitching.

Cutting: Sharp shears, rotary cutter/mat, duplicate pattern pieces.

Marking: Chalk, clips, flower pins, safety pins, tailor’s tacks, thread.

Miscellaneous: Flower pins, safety pins, weights, stay tape, temporary pattern adhesive, seam sealant, white glue, spray starch, spray bottle, covered snaps, stabilizers – water soluble, burn away, tearaway.

Interfacings: Fusible, weft insertion, knit; sew in, hair canvas.

Linings: Outerwear, quality garments.

Underlinings: Organza, polyester chiffon, sew in interfacings, very lightweight fusibles.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2-3mm (8-12spi); or zigzag (W,.5-L,2).

Tension: Lightly balanced.

Feet: Roller, wide straight stitch, even feed, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Recommended; fabric is easily damaged by ripping.

Fabric Prep: Steam or Dryclean.

Layout: Nap – double layer; bulky fabrics and matching patterns – single layer right side up, duplicate pattern pieces.

Seams: Plain (pressed open), topstitched, strap, lapped, piped, taped.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, blind catchstitch, catchstitch), double stitched, interfaced, topstitched.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, tricot binding, Hong Kong finish, zigzag; if lined, none.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self fabric, lining), bindings (contrast, synthetic leather, or suede), ribbings, edge-to edge linings.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, corded, bound, inseam), buttons/loops, zippers (machine, hand, invisible).

Pressing: Cool to medium heat; steam, self fabric or wool press cloth.

Garment Care: Dryclean.