Sew Any Fabric

Velveteen is a pile fabric woven with an extra set of filling yarns. Made from several fibers such as cotton, polyester, and various blends, velveteens are made in a variety of weights and designs. Velveteens have a nap, and the pile separates on seams and folds on the lengthwise grain. It does not ease well, creeps badly when stitched, and is easily marred by pins, improper pressing, and ripping.

Uses: Dresses, jackets, coats, capes, skirts, pants, evening wear, sportswear, pillows, children’s designs, trims.

Design Details: Minimal seaming, soft gathers, pleats, flares, topstitching on casual designs. Combines well with wool, fleece, cotton, faux suede, faux leather, and satin. Avoid tucks, close fitting garments, seams and folds on straight grain. (See Any Fabric.)

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Sharp (HM, HJ), universal (H); sizes 70/10-90/14.

Thread: All-purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk). Topstitching – machine embroidery/top stitching thread, 2 threads all purpose. Serger – lightweight serger, textured thread.

Cutting: Large, sharp shears; rotary cutter/mat.

Marking: Chalk, clips, tailor’s tacks, thread.

Miscellaneous: Super fine pins, cotton embroidery floss or silk for basting, stiff bristled brush, needleboard, point turner, thick towel, wigan, muslin.

Interfacings: sew ins, hair canvas; fusibles, weft.

Linings: Generally on quality designs and outerwear.

Underlinings: Rarely.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2.5-3mm (8-10spi); topstitching – 3-3.5mm (7-8 spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced; light pressure.

Feet: Even feed, roller, wide straight stitch, zipper, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Recommended.

Fabric Prep: Preshrink natural fibers with steam or Dryclean. Machine wash/dry several times to preshrink cottons and blends for casual designs.

Layout: Nap – wrong sides together; heavy fabrics – single layer, wrong-side up; matching – single layer right side up, using duplicate pattern pieces.

Seams: Plain (pressed open), topstitched, piped.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, blind catchstitch, catchstitch), double stitched, interfaced.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag, tricot binding, Hong Kong finish; if lined, none.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self-, lining), bindings, fold-over braid.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, bound, inseam), buttons/ loops, toggles, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium to high heat; steam, velveteen press cloth.

Garment Care: Dryclean to maintain the garment’s pristine appearance. If fabric was preshrunk, launder casual designs. Turn garment wrong-side out.

Fabric Selection: Twill weave velveteens have a denser pile, wear better, and shed less than plain weave fabrics. To store, hang by the selvage. Do not fold.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Spread the fabric wrong sides together, except when working with heavy velveteens or prints which require matching. Spread heavy fabrics wrong-side up and prints right side up. For a rich, deep color, lay out so nap runs up; for wear and lighter color, lay out so nap runs down. Place pins only in the seam allowances. Try to avoid marking on the right side.

Stitching: To avoid stitching problems and ripping, baste seams; baste again to fill in the spaces. Hold firmly in front and behind foot. Stitch with the nap. When joining to a smooth fabric, stitch with the velveteen on top. When topstitching, lengthen stitch; use a zipper foot to topstitch edges and a shim to stitch over uneven layers.

Seams: At edges, press seams open before trimming. Trim to a scant 1.4" (6mm). At corners, do not trim too closely. Before turning, fold the seam toward the underside, and sew it flat at the corner. Turn the seam right side out and straighten with a point turner.

Hems: For soft hems on quality garments, interface with bias cut wigan or muslin. To press the hemline, steam generously. Cover with self fabric scrap and pat with bristles of a stiff brush. Double stitch hems on heavier fabrics.

Pressing: Cover the pressing surface with a thick terry towel or piece of velveteen. Set heat higher for cottons. Avoid touching pile with iron.

Garment Care: To freshen the pile, tumble in dryer with several damp towels for 10 minutes. Remove and hang immediately.

A favorite for all ages, this velveteen party dress is trimmed with satin.(Photo courtesy of KWIK·SEW®.)