Sew Any Fabric

Wool crepe has a dull crinkled surface. Suitable for a variety of designs from dressy to tailored to casual, it is available in all weights from very light to heavy. It is not difficult to sew, but is easily damaged when ripped or pressed carelessly.

Fabric Prep: Ask your Drycleaner to preshrink it or preshrink by hanging over the shower rod in a steam-filled bathroom. When steamed with an iron, wool crepe may shrink unevenly.

Layout/Cutting/Marking: Mark the right side with small safety pins. Cut seams 1" (2.5cm) so they will lie flatter when pressed open. On quality garments, cut the hem allowance 2" (5cm).

Stitching: To reduce puckered seams, use a wide straight stitch foot; and hold fabric firmly in front and back of foot when stitching.

Hem/Seam Finishes: Hand overcast or serge with textured thread in the loopers for a flat, inconspicuous finish. Bound and Hong Kong finishes are generally too bulky for light and Medium weight crepes.

Sleeves: Shrink and shape sleeve caps before setting them into the garment. If the fullness cannot be eased smoothly, reduce the ease. (See Any Fabric.)

Underlining: For dresses, use silk organza, silk chiffon, or Sewin’ Sheer™. For jackets, use bias cut hair canvas in a light to Medium weight for a supple silhouette; use a very lightweight fusible for more structure.

Pressing: Before pressing, cover pressing surface with wool fabric. Test press to determine the appropriate amount of heat, moisture, and pressure.

Use wool press cloth to press right side. When pressing light colors, use a white wool press cloth. For sharp, well-pressed seams and edges, press the seam flat, then press the seam open. For additional pressing hints, see Wool.

Fabricated in wool crepe, this simple shift is from the Custom Couture Collection by Claire Shaeffer. (Vogue Pattern – 7540; courtesy of The McCall Pattern Co.)

Similar Fabrics: Bark crepe, stretch crepe, wool flannel. Uses: Tailored designs, dressy garments, jackets, coats, dresses, pants, skirts.

Sewing Checklist

Essential Supplies

Needles: Sharp (HJ), universal (H); sizes 70/10-90/14.

Thread: All purpose (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester). Topstitching – machine embroidery/ topstitching (cotton, polyester, cotton covered polyester, silk), all purpose. Serger – lightweight serger, textured thread.

Cutting: Sharp shears, rotary cutter/mat.

Marking: Chalk, clips, pins, tailor’s tacks.

Miscellaneous: Soft cotton thread, hand embroidery floss, Ivory soap, small safety pins, water soluble stabilizers.

Interfacings: Generally; sew ins, fusibles, Sof-knit ™, Feather Weft™.

Linings: Generally on quality garments; care, same as garment.

Underlinings: Depends on garment design, weight of wool crepe.

Machine Setup

Stitch Length: 2-2.5mm (10-12spi).

Tension: Lightly balanced.

Machine Feet: Wide straight stitch, zigzag.

Sewing Basics

Test Garment: Usually, depending on design.

Fabric Prep: Dryclean, steam.

Layout: Nap – double layer.

Seams: Plain (pressed open or closed), topstitched.

Hems: Hand (blindstitch, blind catchstitch), double stitched, topstitched, interfaced.

Seam/Hem Finishes: Serged, zigzag, hand overcast, Hong Kong binding; if lined, none.

Edge Finishes: Facings (self fabric), bindings, bands.

Closures: Buttonholes (machine, bound, inseam); buttons/loops, zippers (hand, machine, invisible).

Pressing: Medium heat, steam, wool press cloth, clapper, point presser, seam roll.

Garment Care: Dryclean.