See You in the Piazza is arranged geographically, north to south, instead of in the chronological trajectory of my travels. Since there’s no thread of continuity, you may choose to read the sections randomly, though I suggest reading about whole regions together, as travels within them are usually contiguous.
Finding unexpected places to travel in Italy couldn’t be easier. Just veer off any road. Several websites often lead me in surprising directions: The Touring Club Italiano produces good guides, extensive travel services, trips, and maps to all of Italy—and has for over 120 years. Their Bandiere Arancioni (orange banner) site, http://www.bandierearancioni.it, identifies more than two hundred small towns of particular beauty and cultural significance. I visited many for this book: In Piemonte: Neive, Cherasco, La Morra, Barolo, Orta San Giulio. In Trentino–Alto Adige: Campo Tures, Vipiteno. In Veneto: Asolo, Montagnana, Arquà Petrarca. In Friuli Venezia Giulia: Cividale del Friuli. In Liguria: Varese Ligure. In Toscana: Massa Marittima. In Umbria: Montefalco, Bevagna. In Le Marche: Mercatello sul Metauro. In Puglia: Troia, Orsara, Alberobello.
I Borghi più belli d’Italia, http://borghipiubelliditalia.it/borghi/, lists the most beautiful small towns of Italy. Not an exhaustive list but still useful.
Also helpful: various sites list Blue Flag beaches, those determined by the Foundation for Environmental Education to have the cleanest water and environmentally sound coasts.
I’m enthusiastic about the government-sponsored program of agriturismi, farm stays. These vary from boutique hotel standard to the simplest room. The advantage of either is that you meet local people who are usually hospitable and helpful. You may make a friend, or at least get to pet a goat. Often the agriturismo family will offer cheese-making or cooking classes. Check out the farms at https://www.agriturismo.it/en/.
If you like staying in historic inns, and sometimes castles, Dimore d’Epoca, http://www.dimoredepoca.it/en/, provides many romantic and characteristic listings.
For wine and restaurants, I rely on finding a local enoteca to learn about the area’s vineyards. There are numerous useful apps and, prior to travel, I recommend downloading several. We especially like Gambero Rosso’s yearly wine and restaurant guides. Even though they’re in Italian, the guides are symbol-oriented and easy to understand. While you’re in an enoteca, a bar, bookstore, or produce stand, it’s a good moment to ask, “Where do you eat for a special occasion?” You’re likely to be told of a good local place with atmosphere.
I’M THRILLED TO include recipes from some of our favorite restaurants. Chefs have been enthusiastic, generous, and happy to share their talents. In translating their sometimes elusive notes, I’ve tried to keep the chef’s tone—and to preserve the Italian way of presenting a recipe, which often leaves room for your own creativity. I’ve left the notation QB, quanto basta, meaning “how much is enough,” or “to taste.” Seasonings are almost always QB in an Italian recipe. No “¼ teaspoon of salt” or “6 leaves of basil”! Usually, too, the chef has left quantities of broth or wine open to common sense; I have sometimes inserted quantities when the amount didn’t seem obvious, as when “a glass of white wine” is called for. What size glass might that be? When ingredients may be hard to obtain, such as a particular cheese, or wild game such as hare, I’ve suggested substitutes, although almost everything is available via Internet sources. Some recipes are challenging! I think they represent the new directions I’m finding in restaurants all over Italy, where chefs are suddenly improvising, taking traditions and running with them. Not to worry—there will always be tagliatelle al ragù. While testing, I learned new techniques and usages that I now carry over into other recipes. I hope you have fun trying these recipes that chefs have chosen as representative of their kitchens.
When looking for apartments and villas: Buyer beware. I’ve rented probably a hundred and still can make a mistake, although most have been pleasant and well located. Ask yourself what they’re not showing in the photographs, then ask to see that omitted bathroom or kitchen. Tiny box showers, furniture covered with throws, bad art, dark rooms—all send up warning flags. While bad reviews can’t always be trusted—some people are cranks—lots of iffy reviews certainly cause me to return to search. Look up the address on Google Earth to ascertain that the location is not beside a major road or in an inconvenient neighborhood.
Trains are a fantastic option. Italy has many fast trains, some with business class ambiance and friendly service of drinks, sandwiches, and snacks. The train trip often seems too short! Consult http://www.trenitalia.com and look for the Freccia (arrow) line: Frecciargento, Frecciarossa, and Frecciabianca. Italo, a private high-speed line, is another fabulous option: https://www.italotreno.it/en. The normal intercity trains are great, too.
Luggage is a burden. Best advice: Travel light.