Risotto agli Asparagi al Profumo di Prosecco

RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS AND PROSECCO, SERVES 4

The type of rice does make a difference. Vialone nano is a medium-grain and high-starch rice that renders the kind of creamy risotto Chef Gianmaria Cozza prefers in the Veneto. I also like carnaroli for similar results. Arborio isn’t a favorite in my kitchen—too goopy. Optional: Top the risotto with grated Parmigiano.

• 1 large bunch (1 pound) asparagus, preferably white, stems peeled

• 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 onion, minced

• 1½ cups Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG

• Salt and pepper, QB

• 1½ cups vialone nano rice

• 4 cups vegetable stock

• 2 ounces Casatella Trevigiana cheese (or other soft cow cheese, such as Taleggio)

• 1½ tablespoons butter

Cut the asparagus stems into small, round pieces, and thinly slice the tips.

In a small skillet over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and brown half of the onion for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the asparagus stems (not the tips) and cook until crispy and tender, about 3 minutes. Splash in ¼ cup of the prosecco and stir, allowing it to evaporate. Add salt and pepper.

In a risotto pot over medium heat, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and brown the rest of the onion. Add the rice, and let it toast for 4 minutes, frequently stirring. Add ½ cup of the prosecco and again allow it to evaporate as you stir. Add 1 cup of the stock, and stir the rice for 6 to 7 minutes. Add the stock in ½-cup increments, letting each addition be absorbed before adding more. When the rice is close to al dente, after about 12 minutes, add the asparagus mixture and tips.

When the risotto is ready, add the cheese, butter, and the remaining ¼ cup of wine. Stir to combine. Divide risotto among serving bowls and serve immediately.

Locanda Sandi, Valdobbiadene, Veneto

Gallina Padovana in Saor

PADUAN HEN IN SAOR, SERVES 6

The sauce called saor—meaning “flavor” in the Venetian dialect—originally may have been created to help preserve fish. The sweet-sour sauce for sardines and for sole is ubiquitous in the Veneto. At Il Sogno, Chef Silvano Libralesso serves it with a tender poached chicken. I find this outstanding for a summer dinner. Prepare a day in advance for the flavors to heighten and blend.

• 1 3½-pound hen

• 1 carrot, halved

• 1 stalk celery, cut into 3 pieces

• 1 onion, peeled and quartered

• 1 teaspoon salt

• Thyme sprigs

FOR THE SAOR

• 3 medium white onions, julienned

• ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 cup white wine

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 2 ounces pine nuts

• 2 ounces raisins

• 1 large red bell pepper, cut into strips

• Extra-virgin olive oil, QB

In a large pot of boiling water, place the hen, the aromatic vegetables, salt, and thyme. Reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer for about an hour. Test for doneness. Cool the chicken, then cut the meat off the bones, making sure the pieces are not too small. (You can save the light broth for a soup.)

Prepare the saor:

Toss the onions into a large skillet with ¾ cup of the vinegar, the oil, white wine, and salt. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and simmer for 50 minutes, adding the pine nuts and raisins after about 20 minutes. Stir often, making sure nothing sticks to the pan.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of vinegar to a small pot of boiling water and blanch the red pepper for 3 minutes, then drain.

Mix the chicken, saor, and red pepper, tasting for correct seasoning. Leave to rest in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Taste for seasonings. Serve at room temperature with a drizzle of olive oil.

Trattoria Il Sogno, Mirano, Veneto