I Girini: Briciole di Pasta Buttata Condite dall’Orto e Funghi Porcini, Quasi Crudi

“TADPOLES”: CRUMBS OF TOSSED PASTA SEASONED FROM THE GARDEN, AND PORCINI MUSHROOMS, ALMOST RAW, SERVES 4

La Subida is a family enterprise. Fortuitous it was that daughter Tanja married a chef. Alessandro Gavagna stepped into the kitchen and the La Subida legend continues. I’m delighted to share his “tadpoles.” Porcini are hard to find in the United States. Substitute portobello or any wild mushroom. When traveling in Italy, tuck a few bags of dried porcini in your luggage, along with small boxes of porcini dadi, bouillon cubes. The colander called for below should be one with good-size holes. I have an old aluminum one that works perfectly. When dropping the pasta into the water, it should be at a dolce boil, a soft boil rather than a hard boil. Remove the zucchini pistils with tweezers.

FOR THE PASTA

  • 4 large eggs

  • 1½ cups all-purpose sifted flour

FOR THE SAUCE

  • 1 tablespoon butter

  • 3 ounces porcini mushrooms, chopped

  • 1 small zucchini, finely chopped

  • 8 pumpkin or zucchini flowers, opened, stem and pistil removed, coarsely chopped

  • Salt and pepper, QB

  • 3 tablespoons aged Montasio cheese (or substitute aged Parmigiano-Reggiano)

  • 4 grapevine leaves, washed and patted dry

  • Olive oil

  • 2 to 3 tablespoons goat cheese, crumbled

  • Chopped oregano or basil, or the flowers of ursino garlic (wild garlic or ramps)

  • Dash of red wine vinegar

Prepare the pasta: Break the eggs in a bowl and beat until well combined. Let them rest for 10 minutes. Add the flour and mix vigorously. Let rest for another 15 minutes, then pour the mixture into a colander and push the dough through, dropping “tadpoles” into gently boiling salted water. Pour in small batches to prevent clumping. Break apart any clumps with a fork. As soon as they come to the surface, skim them from the pot and drain them in cold water.

Prepare the sauce: Melt the butter in a medium-size skillet and add the mushrooms, zucchini, and zucchini flowers. Sauté for 5 minutes and season with salt and pepper.

Stir in the cheese and add the “tadpoles” to the vegetables.

For each diner, take a flat plate. Lay down a vine leaf and arrange the tadpoles and vegetables. Sprinkle with a little oil and the crumbled goat cheese. To taste, add the oregano, basil, or flowers of ursino garlic. Finally, add a small dash of vinegar.

Trattoria Al Cacciatore della Subida, Cormòns, Friuli Venezia Giulia