The Cotswold Way – “Cotswold” from the twelfth century Codesuualt or “Cod’s-wold,” meaning “Cod’s high open land,” with “Cod” believed to be an Old English personal name; alternatively, “cots,” meaning “large sheep enclosures,” and “wolds” meaning “hills” – literally “sheep-hills”
The Cotswold country is, as I think, the most beautiful in England … It is a commonplace to us who know this small country of ours that there is hardly any stretch of twenty miles in it which does not flatter us in the belief that there is no more tender or subtle landscape on earth.
—JOHN DRINKWATER, Cotswold Characters (1921)
* HIKING RULE 5: On a National Trail there will always be a marker as you pass through a gate or climb over a stile. If you can’t find it, you have probably gone the wrong way. When you can’t tell for sure which way a marker is pointing, because it is faded or hard to read, just check the other side. The marker for walkers approaching from the other direction will usually solve the mystery.
Formally designated as a National Trail in May 2007, this superb long-distance footpath runs mainly along the Cotswold escarpment for 164 km (102 mi.), starting at Chipping Campden in the north and ending at the city of Bath, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Almost the entire trail lies within the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the largest in England and Wales. (AONBs are places of considerable landscape value, chosen to promote conservation and enhancement of their natural beauty.) The Cotswolds AONB was established primarily in recognition of the region’s rare limestone grasslands and ancient beech woodlands featuring a rich diversity of flora and fauna. The unique value of the Cotswolds AONB is confirmed by the five European Special Areas of Conservation, three National Nature Reserves and over 80 Sites of Special Scientific Interest that are contained within its boundaries.
Glorious walking in the “sheep hills” of the Cotswolds.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
The trail begins just above sea level in Chipping Campden, climbing to a maximum elevation of 325 m (1,066 ft.) at Cleeve Hill, eventually descending off the escarpment to Bath. This may not sound very challenging, but never underestimate the English countryside. Over the course of the walk you will encounter countless sharp ups and downs. By the end you will probably have climbed the equivalent of several mountains.
As with any walking trail that includes climbs and descents on steep, uneven terrain, the normal cautions regarding twisted ankles and injuries from falling apply here. There are no natural predators to worry about – only an occasional sheep, squirrel or roe deer that might happen to cross your path.
Curious cows surround a gate at the entrance to a paddock on the trail.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
You will cross innumerable paddocks on this walk. While almost all of them will contain sheep, always be prepared with an exit plan if any of the fields contain a bull or cows with calves. The law states that bulls over ten months of age are not allowed in a field through which a public footpath passes, but there isn’t much you can do about it if a farmer has decided to ignore the rules. Stay alert and give any bull, no matter its age, a wide berth. Keep to the edge of the field so you can hop over the fence if you need to. And never take lightly the presence of cows with calves, since they tend to be very protective of their young.
I have found that dogs can sometimes present problems on the trail. But 99 times out of 100 they are with a local out for a walk and are quickly controlled. (The presence of dogs and dog walkers is always a good indication you are getting close to the next village and maybe a welcome cup of tea.)
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Getting there: The hike is normally done from Chipping Campden in the north to Bath in the south. Both towns are easily accessible by rail from either Heathrow airport (www.heathrowairport.com) or Gatwick airport (www.gatwickairport.com). These airports would be two of the most common entry points for flights from Canada. The most convenient railway station for Chipping Campden is Moreton-in-Marsh, requiring a short local bus or taxi ride to Chipping Campden. There is frequent rail service from Bath back to London, with easy connections to either airport. Of course, there are many routing options, depending on your own individual travel plans. Websites for both National Express Coaches (www.nationalexpress.com) and National Rail (www.nationalrail.co.uk) provide excellent starting points. |
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Currency: pound sterling, or GBP, or GB£. £1 = 100 pence. For current exchange rates, check out www.oanda.com. |
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Special gear: You will need good, sturdy, waterproof hiking boots that are well broken in before you hit the trail. Hiking poles are highly recommended to help maintain balance on uneven or slippery rocks or steps. You will also need to carry rain gear, of course, including gaiters, as well as adequate supplies of food and water. Rain is inevitable. Make sure your pack has a rain cover and that it is also lined with waterproof facing or plastic bags. One particularly indispensable piece of gear for walking in Great Britain is a plastic map pouch. These are wonderful contraptions that you hang around your neck and into which you insert your maps/guidebooks to keep them dry as you walk. Then all you need to do is flip it up to check your location along the trail. I didn’t have one of these on my first National Trail walk and ended up with a rain-wrinkled, very weathered guidebook by the end of it. |
For much of its 164 km (102 mi.) the Cotswold Way wanders along the limestone escarpment called the Cotswold Edge, climbing and descending countless times as it passes through idyllic, almost picture-perfect villages and some of the finest landscape in the country.
Since almost the entire trail lies within the Cotswolds AONB, it has been designed to encompass some of the very best the area has to offer. The result is a trail that has been described by Kev Reynolds, in his guide The Cotswold Way: Two-Way Trail Description, as “a devious route – a switchback, stuttering, to-ing and fro-ing, climbing and falling walk.” But one that is superb just the same.
Heading south from the ancient market town of Chipping Campden, with its elegant collection of golden-hued buildings, the walker passes through a stunning landscape of ancient grazing lands and woodland trails filled with beeches, birdsong and amazing wildflowers. Along the way, villages like Stanton, with its iconic Cotswold cottages, seem almost too perfect to be real, while the romantic ruins of Hailes Abbey, the ancient tombs of Belas Knap and the ubiquitous drystone walls clearly show how the famous Cotswold limestone has shaped and defined this country for centuries.
The trail climbs to its highest point on the protected grasslands of Cleeve Common, with fine views back to Winchcombe, then on to the Devil’s Chimney on the edge of Leckhampton Hill, with Cheltenham spread out below. Expect more splendid panoramas and fine woodland walking as you head toward the white stone buildings of Painswick. A series of ups and downs leads to rewarding vistas from Haresfield Beacon and Cam Long Down. From here it’s down to the old wool town of Dursley, before more climbing to the Tyndale Monument on Nibley Knoll and down to the village of Wotton-under-Edge.
Ahead lies more excellent scarp walking, deep sunken tracks through magical beech forest, quiet country lanes and peaceful vales filled with grazing sheep as you pass villages with intriguing names like Hawkesbury Upton and Old Sodbury. Don’t miss a chance to stop for a pot of tea and admire the fine gardens of Dyrham Park and to record your thoughts on the Cotswold Way in the message book by the trail in Dyrham Wood. From here it’s not far before the final descent to the elegant streets of Bath. Along the way, be sure to savour the final miles filled with broad panoramas and tranquil country walking before plunging back into “civilization” as you wind your way through the city to the magnificent splendour of Bath Abbey, and the end of this exceptional trail.
You may have noticed this book includes two chapters for European walks and both of them are National Trails in Great Britain. I make no apologies for my obvious bias. People often ask me about my favourite hike and although I find that question almost impossible to answer, these are my favourite types of hikes. I have done a number of National Trails and the Cotswold Way ranks close to the top of the list.
Of course, this is entirely my view, but I love the freedom of being able to walk safely on my own, set my own pace and not worry about encountering a bear or a cougar along the trail. I can decide when I want to stop for tea, take a photograph or have a closer look at something. I can decide how far I want to walk each day and where I want to spend a rest day. And best of all, I can do it all with a daypack while someone else takes care of my luggage along the way. (See the “How to do the hike” section for detailed information on logistics.)
When it comes to choosing the Cotswold Way, I suppose the obvious answer is that almost the entire length lies within the largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England and Wales. It seems John Drinkwater can be forgiven his apparent hyperbole when he calls the Cotswold country the most beautiful in England. Even the official National Trail guide calls it “100 miles of quintessentially English countryside.”
At 164 km (102 mi.) in length, the Way gives novice National Trail walkers an outstanding opportunity to sample some of the best the country has to offer without the somewhat daunting challenge of an Offa’s Dyke Path (see chapter 6) or other longer alternatives in the extensive National Trail network. Since the Cotswold route passes through numerous villages and towns, walkers have many options when it comes to deciding on where to stop and how far to walk each day. And easy accessibility along the trail means there is always the possibility of hiking just a portion of the path if your time or ambition is limited.
The Way is not difficult, but neither is it a mere stroll. You will climb and descend the escarpment countless times before you reach Bath, but there are no vast open moorlands or lonely mountain tracks to threaten the solitary walker. The land is peaceful, rolling, welcoming. Along the way you will pass through picture-
perfect villages where charming thatched cottages and magnificent churches crafted from the famous Cotswold limestone create a veritable “poem in stone.” Sheep graze the grasslands as they have for centuries. Orchids and bluebells spring from the rich soil to greet the watchful rambler while a symphony of birdsong fills the ancient beech woodlands. What can I say? The walking is good here.
In theory the path can be tackled at any time of the year. The long days of May and June, combined with the superb proliferation of wildflowers and the fact that less rain falls in the spring than at any other time of the year, makes this one of the best times to go. I walked the trail in early June and had only one really bad day of high wind and driving rain. Neither the trail nor the villages were busy, making it an ideal time to walk. Summer is traditional holiday time, with many of the Cotswold villages attracting hordes of visitors throughout July and August. Although most of them aren’t there to walk the National Trail, the Cotswold Way is very popular for day trips and loop walks because there is easy access from so many points. This means portions of the trail close to popular destinations such as Chipping Campden or Broadway can be very busy during the summer. Of course, the likelihood of rain is highly unpredictable and ever-present no matter what time of year you choose, with chances slightly higher in the fall and winter. (Having said that, I should also point out that the last major flooding in the area occurred in the summer of 2007, with 2008 a close second.) The brilliant colours in the woodlands and the crisp days make autumn a definite alternative. Winter is not recommended, though. The very short days combined with the possibility of encountering cold winds and driving rain can make for some tough walking conditions.
… these walls were still faintly warm and luminous, as if they knew the trick of keeping the lost sunlight of centuries glimmering about them. This lovely trick is at the heart of the Cotswold mystery.
—J.B. PRIESTLEY, English Journey (1934)
Priestley was clearly captivated by the spell of the luminous stone that defines the very essence of the Cotswolds. For centuries, man has captured the magic of the famous limestone in the cottages, the fine churches and the drystone walls that seem an almost natural extension of a landscape that was largely untouched by the Industrial Revolution and hasn’t changed for hundreds of years.
Just for a minute you need to put on your geologist’s hat to understand what makes this stone, and consequently the Cotswolds, so special. For much of its length, the Cotswold Way follows the Cotswold Edge, a high limestone escarpment formed during the Jurassic period about 150 million years ago. The sedimentary rock emerged out of a warm, shallow sea where the shells of tiny creatures were compressed into a distinctive oolitic (from Greek, “egg stone”) limestone that was eventually pushed up and exposed in the undulating cliff of land we see today. The Way follows much of this scarp, providing stunning views over the Malvern Hills and the Severn River as far as Wales on a good day.
According to Anthony Burton, in his Cotswold Way Official National Trail Guide, the organic texture of the limestone gives it an unusual ability to “not so much reflect the light as to absorb and throw it back, enriched with a deep, golden glow.” The result is a distinctive honey-coloured stone that is easily worked and considered to be some of the most durable building material in the world. Over the centuries, the easy availability of the rock meant its use was not restricted to grand manors and churches, but graced even the most modest cottages.
The limestone varies in colour as you walk from north to south, gradually changing from the golden-hued buildings of Chipping Campden to the off-white elegance of Painswick and Bath. But the use of this magical stone has never been limited to the towns and villages. Over 4,000 years ago Neolithic people built a communal tomb at Belas Knap incorporating the local limestone into a structure that seems to have hardly changed since then.
When the Romans invaded England in 43 CE they quickly realized the agricultural value of the land in this area, establishing prosperous farming estates in the valleys and building richly decorated stone villas strategically designed to catch the rays of the sun. Ruins can still be seen not far off the trail near Winchcombe and at Witcombe, close to Cooper’s Hill. The peaceful prosperity of Roman times came to an end as the legions withdrew in 410 CE and the Anglo-Saxons, with their feudal pattern of farming, advanced into the region. They established small villages clustered around stone manors and churches. But it was the arrival of the Normans, following the invasion in 1066, that saw church-building begin in earnest and the transformation of the high wolds into vast sheep-walks where sheep were said to outnumber people four to one.
By the twelfth century large areas of woodland were being cleared to accommodate even more sheep. As Jane Bingham notes in her book The Cotswolds: A Cultural History, it was a situation that would later prompt cleric William Tyndale to complain, “God gave the earth to men to inhabit and not unto sheep.” Much of the land was controlled by influential abbots who employed locals to herd and shear the flocks, while a class of powerful middlemen developed to act as wool brokers between the church and the cloth merchants.
By 1586 William Camden was writing in Britannia, “In these woulds there feed in great numbers flockes of sheepe … whose wool being most fine and soft, is had in passing great account among nations.” The best wool in Europe was considered to be English, and the best wool in England was said to be Cotswold. It was produced by a distinctive breed called the Cotswold Lion.
At its height in the fourteenth century, the wool trade was said to account for 50 per cent of England’s wealth, a fact that was recognized by “the woolsack,” a wool-stuffed cushion originally presented to the Lord Chancellor in the upper house of the British Parliament as a symbol of the prosperity brought by the wool trade.
The rise of the wealthy wool merchant class left an indelible mark on the countryside, with enormous sums being spent on fine manor houses and grand renovations to existing Norman churches in an exuberant architectural style called Perpendicular Gothic. In the Cotswolds it became known as Woolgothic. One of the finest examples is the parish church of St. James in Chipping Campden, widely recognized as one of the great “wool churches” of the region.
William Grevel, who built himself a handsome stone home that still stands on the High Street, was a major benefactor of the church. A memorial brass declares him “the flower of the wool merchants of all England.”
As the demand for raw wool exports declined, a prosperous new middle class of textile mill owners emerged, with woollen cloth manufacturing providing yet another source of wealth. They built grand stone houses in Painswick and the Stroud Valley and launched another round of church building. Their mills can still be seen along many of the rivers and streams throughout the Cotswolds, including the grand Stanley Mill at King’s Stanley, which included five giant waterwheels. But sharp competition and high tariffs eventually spelled the end of the woollen mills. Many of these lovely stone buildings have since been converted into shops and restaurants to serve the summer tourist hordes.
Despite the huge sheep-walks, there had always been plenty of arable farming land. Eventually the feudal system imposed by the Anglo-Saxons was replaced by a process that saw many villagers become freeholders who owned their own small pieces of land. The imposition of the Enclosure Acts during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries saw the partition of vast tracts of the wolds into fields, creating the landscape of drystone walls and hedges that still greets modern ramblers along the Way.
The Romans understood the agricultural value of the land and the beauty of the stone right from the beginning. It is these elements that continue to sustain the Cotswolds and that give such pleasure to walkers along this extraordinary trail.
It is not my intention to provide a detailed, step-by-step account of the trail. There are plenty of excellent guidebooks that do an outstanding job in that department. (See the “Recommended reading” section below.) What follows is an account of the highlights of the Cotswold Way based on stages that allow a walker to cover the trail in a fairly leisurely eight days. The easy accessibility of villages and accommodations along the way means you have many planning options, so you are really only limited by your ambition, your time constraints and your stamina. (I actually did a portion of the Way in reverse in order to incorporate the Cotswold Round into the walk with no backtracking. This routing is discussed in more detail in the “Consider this” section below.)
The issue of which direction to walk always arises. The trail is usually done from north to south. Other than one small portion done in reverse, this is the route I took. There is not much difference in up vs. down no matter which way you travel, and it probably makes sense to walk north with the sun and the prevailing wind at your back. But for many it comes down to the fact that it just seems more fitting to start in the true heart of the Cotswolds and end with a triumphant conclusion in the elegant city of Bath with extra time to savour the remarkable beauty of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is also the practical aspect of easy access from Bath, while ending in Chipping Campden can result in missing the last bus out of town if you arrive later than planned. Of course, it is up to you. Either way, you can expect a superb walk.
When it comes to navigating, the waymarking of the path is outstanding. Expect to see a variety of fingerposts, plastic discs and arrows on trees and rocks along with the ever comforting acorn symbol signifying you are on the National Trail. Note that even though Great Britain has adopted the metric system of measurement for everything else, distances are still in miles, on the trail and on the roads as well.
Routing changes are inevitable from season to season as a result of weather events or erosion damage on the trail. Always rely on the waymarking and not your map or your guidebook, since those may not reflect the most recent diversions. And don’t feel shy about asking the locals. I have found them more than willing to help. Having said that, I have also found they often know less about the trail than you do. Like locals all over the world, they may not be familiar with the tourist attractions right in their own backyard.
Please note that the distance quotes for each day are based on the official trail route and do not include side trips or off-trail accommodation add-ons.
A picture-perfect cottage in the village of Stanton.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
Consider arriving a day before your start to tame that jetlag, do a final reorganization on your pack and stock up on lunch provisions for the next few days. (Most of the guidebooks give good information on villages with shops and pubs along the way. See the “Recommended reading” section for detailed listings.)
Chipping Campden certainly qualifies as one of the quintessential market towns of the Cotswolds, so it is worth planning on at least one extra day here to explore all it has to offer. This architectural treasure, with its fine High Street of remarkably preserved, honey-coloured stone buildings, is home to the parish church of St. James, one of the great “wool” churches. The town was also a major centre for the Arts and Crafts movement led by William Morris in late Victorian Britain.
The day is a fine introduction to all the Way has to offer, as you climb to the escarpment on Dover’s Hill with views over the Vale of Evesham, then on through fields bordered by drystone walls and beech woodlands filled with the scent of wild garlic.
If you are blessed with good weather you can expect many outstanding views along the Way as you climb to the Broadway Tower, descend to the village of Broadway and then ascend to Shenberrow Hill.
Broadway can be thronged with tourists in the summer, but don’t let that deter you from taking in the considerable charms of this classic Cotswold town with its magnificent stone buildings and fine topiary displays. As you leave Broadway, don’t forget to look back occasionally to catch unexpected vistas opening up behind you. Ahead lies Stanton, often called the perfect Cotswold village. It seems almost too quaint to actually be real – more like a movie set than a place where people live and work. It has managed to escape the commercialism that is rampant in many other Cotswold villages, so be sure to savour the untouched beauty of the place as you pass through.
The initial portion of the route to Winchcombe is a gentle walk through peaceful countryside as grassland gives way to parkland full of horse chestnuts and copper beech trees. There is only one real climb of any significance, from Wood Stanway to Stumps Cross. Along the way you will pass the seventeenth century Jacobean gatehouse to Stanway House (open to the public in the summer). The magnificent gardens boast the tallest gravity fountain in the world, shooting over 91 m (300 ft.). Just down the road is the lovely thatched cricket pavilion built with money donated by J.M. Barrie, an enthusiastic cricketer and author of Peter Pan. A stop at the ruins of Hailes Abbey is highly recommended before you begin the real climbing of the day south of Winchcombe.
Winchcombe is another fine Cotswold town along the Way with much to offer. The parish church of St. Peter is an exceptional example of a “wool” church, famous for its 40 gargoyles – one is said to have been used by Lewis Carroll as a model for the Mad Hatter in Alice in Wonderland.
Cleeve Hill is the highest point on the Cotswold Way.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
As you leave town, the Way follows Vineyard Street, one of the most beautiful in Winchcombe, with its stone cottages and trellised porches. In the past it was called Duck Street after the ducking stool once set up by the river. Apparently the see-saw-like
device was used to dunk malicious town gossipers, presumably to teach them a lesson.
South of Winchcombe, the trail begins to climb, first to the ancient long barrow site of Belas Knap and then to the wide open spaces of Cleeve Common. You will be amply rewarded for your efforts with wonderful panoramas back to Winchcombe and Sudeley Castle. One of the finest viewpoints along the Way is from the top of the Common, with Cheltenham spread out below and the Malvern Hills and Brecon Beacons in the distance.
The ruins of Hailes Abbey are worth a stop.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
The Devil’s Chimney is a major landmark along the trail.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
Much of the day’s walking follows the western edge of the escarpment, skirting the city of Cheltenham below, with many wonderful views. On a clear day you can see as far as the Black Mountains in Wales. Although the Common is criss-crossed with a confusing array of golf and sheep trails, the Way is well marked and easily followed. There is plenty of splendid woodland walking, including the Bill Smylie Nature Reserve, home to more than 30 species of butterfly, and Lineover Wood with its broad-leafed lime trees. Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep, especially the climb up Ravensgate Hill, where a welcome bench at the top gives you a place to enjoy the view and catch your breath. The trail emerges onto the grassland of Hartley Hill and dramatic panoramic views unfold as you follow the scarp along Leckhampton Hill to the rock pinnacle called the Devil’s Chimney.
The trail continues over grassland, down country lanes and through woodland with fleeting views of Gloucester opening to a broad panorama before plunging into more splendid beech woods. The track emerges to cross a very dangerous bit of road by the Air Balloon pub. Then it’s back to the scarp edge and fine views over the Vale of Gloucester, with the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons in the distance. The path eventually arrives at the Birdlip road but does not go into the village.
The trail to Painswick is one of woodlands interspersed with tantalizing views of Gloucester and the Severn Vale. The Way is generally good underfoot, with welcome shade on a hot day. The riot of birdsong is a constant companion as you make your way through Witcombe Wood, Brockworth Wood, Buckholt Wood and Pope’s Wood. Along the way you will make a steep climb to the top of Cooper’s Hill with its superb views of Gloucester and the far off Malvern Hills.
The trail eventually leaves the woods to emerge onto the manicured slopes of the Painswick Golf Course, just below the ramparts of Painswick Beacon. A short diversion to the summit of the hill provides good views across the Severn Vale. The Beacon is the site of an Iron Age fort called Kimsbury Camp, which has suffered much damage over the years but still impresses with its extensive double and triple banks and ditches. From here it’s mostly downhill to the white stone elegance of Painswick.
Built on the wealth of the woollen textile trade, this old market town is dominated by St. Mary’s church with its towering spire (which has suffered two lightning hits over the years). The church is famous for its table tombs, its 99 yew trees (it is said the Devil won’t allow 100 to grow), and its annual clipping ritual. The ceremony has nothing to do with clipping the trees, but requires parishioners to join hands and encircle the church in a group hug of “affection and gratitude.”
From Painswick, it’s open meadows, woodlands and some of the best views along the entire Cotswold Way. The scarp is soon regained, with Painswick clearly visible as you look back from Scottsquar Hill. A milestone confirms you are almost halfway to Bath, with only 55 miles (88.5 km) left! Magnificent vistas over the Severn Vale now open up at the trigonometry point at Haresfield Beacon and the topograph a little further down the trail, followed by the welcome shade of Standish Wood. Field walking and several squeeze stiles eventually lead you across the Stroudwater Canal, past the obsolete Stanley Mill to the small village of King’s Stanley. Walkers have the option of taking a longer but more scenic route across Selsley Common, converging with the main trail in Pen Wood. I took the shorter route due to the location of my accommodations for the evening, but have since been advised that the longer route (adding about 2.4 km, or 1.5 mi.) is highly recommended.
The view of Cam Long Down from Coaley Peak on a clear day.
© COTSWOLD WAY – NICK TURNER
May the weather gods be with you along this section! I walked most of the day in rain and wind, missing the extensive views that are a highlight of this stage. Fortunately, the path includes beautiful sections of woodland walking which offered good shelter from the steady rainfall. It was a good reminder of the need to be prepared with adequate rain gear and accessible snacks, since you are unlikely to stop in such inclement weather to eat properly.
The day brings some fairly strenuous ascents and steep descents as you climb to pass the Nympsfield long barrow and the panoramic views from Coaley Peak. The route eventually follows a broad track between farms to begin a steep climb to the summit of Cam Long Down.
The ascent was quite treacherous here due to the wet conditions. On a clear day the view includes the Severn River to the west, the curve of the Cotswold escarpment and the old wool market town of Dursley at the bottom of the hill.
I am forever grateful to the staff and patrons of the Old Spot pub who welcomed me in my sodden gear and gladly served me on a busy afternoon. The pub lies directly on the route and is a good place to stop for a break (even when it isn’t raining) before heading up the next challenging climb through woodland to the golf course on Stinchcombe Hill. Here you have the choice of cutting straight across the end of the course to meet up with the main trail that follows a circuitous and much longer route around the edge of the golf course. The shortcut eliminates almost 4 km (2.5 mi.) and is highly recommended in bad weather since the views from the escarpment are obviously lost. If you opt for the longer route when conditions are good, you will be rewarded with views all the way.
The trail continues through woodland and across open fields through the village of North Nibley and up another climb to the escarpment by the Tyndale Monument on Nibley Knoll. The climb is quite steep but there are good stairs with a handrail. The trail emerges at the base of the monument.
From here the trail follows a welcome section of level grassland and more woodland before emerging at the Jubilee Plantation on Wotton Hill with more grand views. (The plantation initially celebrated the English victory at the Battle of Waterloo. The trees were replanted to recognize the golden jubilee of Queen Victoria after they had been burned earlier to mark the end of the Crimean War.) Then it’s downhill all the way to the village of Wotton-under-Edge.
At Wortley, the trail follows a sunken lane through woodland.
© COTSWOLD WAY – JO WARD
A combination of country lanes, gentle valleys, woodlands and airy views along the scarp greet the walker along this stage. And of course, a few steep climbs along the way. As you follow the track through woodland to the edge of Wortley village, you will pass down a deep sunken lane.
If it is springtime, expect a profusion of wood violets and primroses to line the banks as the lane dips ever lower before emerging into open farmland. Soon the trail passes the small hamlet of Alderley and then follows the edge of meadows stretching into the Kilcott Valley.
Along the way you will pass an impressive stand of very large larch trees and eventually head up to the Somerset monument. This rather oriental-looking landmark commemorates the services of General Lord Robert Somerset, who served under Wellington at the Battle of Waterloo.
The trail bypasses the town of Hawkesbury Upton, but maybe that is a good thing, since the sign at the entrance to the town declares “You’ll never leave.” The track passes an old drovers’ pond and then heads out along country lanes, through woodland and across fields with good views along the way. As you approach Little Sodbury keep your eye open for the waymark by the church. I completely missed it and went several miles out of my way before I realized my error. It was covered by the leaves of a large tree. I should have known I had gone too far without seeing another waymark, but fortunately it was a beautiful day and good walking, although it made for a long trek. The trail follows through Sodbury Camp, a very well-preserved Iron Age hill fort with excellent views, before heading down to the village of Old Sodbury.
Strip lynchets are ridges formed on a hillside by long-repeated plowing.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
This is a short but beautiful stage with delightful walking and several highlights despite the need to cross a few large roadways during the day. The path follows open parkland through Dodington Park before crossing the busy A46 highway, and into the village of Tormarton, where the lovely little church boasts a massive Norman tower and table tombs. Once across the ugly slash of the M4 motorway, the track follows beside a series of huge cultivated fields, then skirts the edge of Dyrham Park (famous for its elusive deer) along a drystone wall that is one of the best examples seen along the trail. The walking is superb along this section, with wonderful views and outstanding examples of ancient strip lynchets plowed into the terraced hillsides.
It seems all too soon when the path descends into the town of Dyrham and past the gate of Dyrham House. The house and its magnificent grounds were featured in the film The Remains of the Day and are well worth a visit. Don’t miss a chance to leave your thoughts on the Cotswold Way in the message box as you pass through Dyrham Wood, then continue on through the fields to the village of Cold Ashton, with its broad, sweeping views over the valley.
The magnificent Bath Abbey marks the end of the Cotswold Way.
VISITBATH.CO.UK © BATH TOURISM PLUS
Sadly, the end of this wonderful walk approaches, but not before a final day of brilliant walking capped off with far-reaching panoramas before the final descent to the magnificent city of Bath. The path follows quiet country lanes and sheep-filled paddocks across a gently rolling landscape before climbing to follow a series of metal standards marking the Civil War battlefield of Lansdown Hill with its fine view to the southeast. Soon the scarp edge is regained with more fine vistas the reward. The trail winds past a golf course to the Bath Racecourse, then along the scarp to a well-known lookout called Prospect Stile (though there is actually no stile there) and your first view of Bath in the valley below. From here it’s a steady downhill to the elegant winding streets of Bath. The trail ends at the doors to the magnificent Bath Abbey, a grand finale to a superb walk.
This is a superb long-distance walk that can easily be done safely on your own or with a walking group. It is also possible to do parts of it if the full distance seems overwhelming or if time constraints limit your ability to complete the whole path at one go.
Over the years, I have used the services of Contours Walking Holidays (www.contours.co.uk) for a number of National Trail hikes and would highly recommend them. They book your accommodations, arrange your luggage transfers and supply you with all the guidebooks and maps you need to complete the route. The trip is prepaid, avoiding the need to worry about carrying cash for small B&Bs that do not accept credit cards. Many other companies supply similar services for self-guided trips or fully guided options. For a list of other reputable companies, check the Trailblazer guide described in the “Recommended reading” section below.
There is also the option of booking your own accommodations, but this can be a slow and frustrating process, requiring the need to communicate with many establishments, only to have to change your plans as you find out they don’t have room on the days you want to stay. The official trail website at www.nationaltrail.co.uk/Cotswold provides a whole planning section if you want to tackle it yourself. If you choose this alternative, you can also decide whether you want to carry all your clothes etc. or instead arrange for luggage transfers. For anyone considering camping, be advised that official campsites are few and far between, while wild camping is not allowed anywhere along the Cotswold Way. It may be possible to camp in a field, but definitely not without the explicit permission of the owner.
In theory, English-speaking visitors shouldn’t have too many problems understanding the locals. That is the theory, anyway. What follows are a few interesting translations of place names you will encounter along the trail.
Oh, who can ever be tired of Bath?
—Catherine Morland in Jane Austen’s Northanger Abbey (1817)
Bath Abbey towers over the Roman baths.
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It is a sentiment I would echo. But apparently Jane herself wasn’t particularly happy during the time she spent in the elegant Georgian city that had become a popular eighteenth century destination for the prominent social, political and cultural leaders of the day. Dubbed the “busiest idle place in the world,” Bath saw people flocking there in droves to indulge in every leisure and business pursuit the city had to offer and to partake of the famous hot springs. “Taking the waters” became a fashionable activity after a visit by Queen Anne seeking a remedy for dropsy. One doctor claimed the springs could cure “rheumatic, gouty and paralytic afflictions, in all those disorders originating from indigestion and acidity of the stomach, bilious and glandular obstructions, hypochondriac and hysterical afflictions.” (Little wonder that the term “aquatic doctor” is the origin of the slang term “quack doctor.”)
The hot springs had been recognized for their curative powers as far back as 863 BCE when legend maintains they miraculously cured the young Prince Bladud of leprosy. They reached their zenith under the Romans, who developed a religious sanctuary and spa honouring Sulis Minerva. The name combined Sul, the Celtic goddess of the waters, and Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom and healing. The Roman baths at Aquae Sulis (“waters of Sul”), became renowned across Europe.
The usual superlatives just don’t seem to do the city justice. You could easily spend a week here and still have plenty left on your list of things to see and do. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, the city reflects some of the finest examples of two great eras in human history – the Roman and the Georgian. Not only have the ancient Roman baths been restored, but the extraordinary Georgian buildings, which suffered extensive bomb damage during the Second World War, were eventually reconstructed to their former glory.
The architectural genius of John Wood the Elder (1704–1754) and his vision of a “New Rome” is reflected in his masterpieces of The Circus, Queen Square and much else in Bath. Following his death, his work was continued by his son, John Wood the Younger, who completed The Circus and went on to build the dramatic Royal Crescent, with its 30 terraced houses connected with giant Ionic columns.
Built from the light-coloured Cotswold stone quarried from nearby Coombe Down, Bath is, in the words of UNESCO, “a demonstration par excellence of the integration of architecture, urban design and landscape setting, and the deliberate creation of a beautiful city.” Make sure you plan to spend some time here before you head home.
For anyone interested in adding more miles of walking in the Cotswold countryside, it is possible to easily incorporate the Cotswold Round into the Cotswold Way without any backtracking. As the name suggests, the Round basically takes you in a circle and can be started from any of the villages along it. The path covers a distance of about 82 km (51 mi.), including approximately 29 km (18 mi.) of the Cotswold Way, from Chipping Campden to Winchcombe. I started my walk in Winchcombe, heading north on the Cotswold Way to Broadway and Chipping Campden, then on to Moreton-in-Marsh, Stow-on-the-Wold, Bourton-on-the-Water and back to Winchcombe. From there I headed south on the Cotswold Way to Bath.
The Round combines sections of several well marked trails, including the Monarch’s Way, Windrush Way, Wardens’ Way and the Cotswold Way. Expect more superb walking and a chance to see some of the region’s most iconic Cotswold villages not visited on the National Trail. I used the services of Contours Walking Holidays, who custom-designed the itinerary for me, booked all the accommodations and luggage transfers and provided detailed trail notes. (See the “How to do the hike” section for more information.)
Eating options along the trail vary. Your accommodation will provide the traditional cooked breakfast to get you started in the morning. This seems to last me well past noon, so I generally rely on picnic-type food such as fruit, cheese, crackers and energy bars to snack on along the trail during the day. Most towns and villages will have a shop or full-sized grocery where you can stock up. Many B&Bs will make your lunch for the next day for an additional charge and supply an evening meal if you are stopping in a village with few other options. Or you can always self-cater. I find most establishments are quite happy to supply you with a plate and utensils and let you eat your own meal if you are so inclined.
Bath offers the weary walker an extensive choice of restaurants and pubs for a celebratory dinner, but don’t miss the chance to sample some of the specialties specifically associated with the city.
The Bath Chap is the salted and smoked lower half of a pig’s cheek and can be found at the Guildhall covered market. Bath Oliver biscuits, the Georgian equivalent of a slimming aid and antidote for rich food, are still available. They were invented by Dr. William Oliver, who opened the Bath General Hospital (now called the Royal Mineral Water Hospital) in the mid-eighteenth century and was a well-known anti-obesity campaigner even then. Oliver is also said to have invented the Bath bun, a sweet roll that was a favourite of Jane Austen when she lived in the town. These should not be confused with the famous Sally Lunn bun, which claims to be the original Bath bun. Described as “a rich, round and generous brioche bun,” it is still prepared from a closely guarded secret recipe and served at Sally Lunn’s, a popular café located in the oldest house in Bath.
Hygiene standards are generally high and there should be no concerns about most food establishments.
Tipping is expected. Normally 10 to 15 per cent of the bill would be considered reasonable.
Vegetarians: Although strictly vegetarian restaurants may be few and far between along the trail, many will provide some vegetarian options, including pubs. Most B&Bs are happy to cater to vegetarian concerns. Just ask.
There is an enormous amount of information available on the Internet relating to the Cotswolds and the Way. The following websites provide excellent sources and related links to help get you started. Many of the larger villages and towns along the Way also have their own websites, providing more detailed local information.
www.nationaltrail.co.uk/Cotswold is the official National Trail website for the Cotswold Way.
www.cotswolds.com is the official website of the Cotswolds.
www.cotswoldsaonb.com is the official website for the Cotswolds Conservation Board.
www.ChippingCampden.co.uk has information on Chipping Campden and the surrounding area.
www.beautifulbroadway.com contains information on Broadway and the surrounding area.
www.winchcombe.co.uk features information on Winchcombe and the surrounding area.
www.visitbath.co.uk is the official website for the city of Bath.
There are several excellent guidebooks to the trail. Those listed here are the ones I used and would highly recommend. Also included in the list are some books of historical and cultural interest relating to the Cotswolds.
Bath Valley of the Sacred Spring – Kim Green – stories of Bath including photographs.
Cotswold Characters – John Drinkwater – prose sketches of five Cotsaller characters, including a mason, a fisherman, a foreigner, a footballer and a thatcher. Available at www.archive.org.
Cotswold Way: Chipping Campden to Bath – Tricia and Bob Hayne – the Trailblazer series are some of my favourite guidebooks for the National Trails. They offer comprehensive information on towns and places along the trail, flora and fauna, together with exceptionally detailed, easy to follow maps.
Cotswold Way: Official National Trail Guide – Anthony Burton – this official trail guide provides excellent trail descriptions and maps along with practical information on planning your walk and good historical background. This is the guide I carried with me every day.
Did You Know? Bath: A Miscellany – Julia Skinner – fascinating trivia along with an outstanding collection of archival photographs.
Lonely Planet England – a good starting point to plan your trip to England.
Stories of Bath: A Selective History in Eleven Episodes – Diana White – not your standard history, this collection of eleven stories provides a fascinating insight into this extraordinary city.
The Cotswolds: A Cultural History – Jane Bingham – an excellent introduction to the history and unique culture of the Cotswolds including an outstanding section of further reading.
The Cotswold Way: Two-Way Trail Description – Kev Reynolds – this Cicerone guide provides the trail description from Chipping Campden to Bath as well as in reverse from Bath to Chipping Campden. These are excellent guides with good trail descriptions and maps along with great historical information interspersed throughout the text.
The Little Book of the Cotswolds – Gillian Broomhall – a wonderful collection of facts and miscellany about the Cotswolds. Includes a good list of further reading.
Hedgehogs are common in English hedgerows.
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