Offa’s Dyke Path, or Llwybr Clawdd Offa (Welsh)
There was in Mercia in fairly recent times a certain vigorous king called Offa,
who terrified all the neighbouring kings and provinces around him,
and who had a great dyke built between Wales and Mercia from sea to sea …
—BISHOP ASSER, Life of King Alfred (893 CE)
* HIKING RULE 6: If you are walking on a National Trail in Great Britain and you see a hill ahead of you, the trail will inevitably go up the hill.
One of Britain’s longest National Trails, Offa’s Dyke Path (or as the Welsh say, Llwybr Clawdd Offa) is a magnificent long-distance walk that meanders for 285 km (177 mi.) along the English–Welsh border. Starting at the marker stone at Sedbury Cliffs near Chepstow and ending at the seafront monument at Prestatyn, it passes through three Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (the Wye Valley, the Shropshire Hills and the Clwydian Hills) as well as Brecon Beacons National Park, crossing the border more than 20 times. Along the way, it follows portions of the 1200-year-old earthwork known as Offa’s Dyke, Britain’s longest ancient monument, crossing over a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Site at the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. The dyke has actually become part of the language of Wales – the outside world is called “beyond Offa’s Dyke,” while tourists are said to come “from the other side of Offa’s Dyke.” The convention is common even for Welsh from west Wales who often have never seen the earthwork.
The path follows Offa’s Dyke as it snakes across the countryside north of Llanfair Hill.
Rob Dingle, Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail Officer
The trail begins near sea level at the Sedbury Cliffs overlooking the Severn Estuary by Chepstow, climbs to its highest point of 700 m (2,300 ft.) on the Hatterrall Ridge in the Black Mountains of Brecon Beacons National Park, and eventually descends to sea level at Prestatyn on the shore of the Irish Sea. This may sound fairly benign for anyone accustomed to mountain hiking, but don’t be fooled. Over the course of this superb walk you climb and descend multitudes of “hill-waves,” gaining and losing literally thousands of metres over the course of the hike.
As with any walking trail that includes climbs and descents on steep, uneven terrain, the normal cautions regarding twisted ankles and injuries from falling apply here. There are no natural predators to worry about – only an occasional sheep, squirrel or deer that might happen to cross your path.
Having said that, always be prepared for the possibility of an unpleasant encounter with a bull protecting his cow harem. You will pass through many, many paddocks on this walk, and although the majority will have sheep in them, you will also find some with cows or bullocks (the English equivalent of steers) and the occasional scary bull.
Dogs sometimes present problems on the trail, but 99 times out of 100 they are with a local who is out for a walk and they are quickly controlled. (The presence of dogs and walkers is always a good indication you are getting close to the next village and maybe a welcome cup of tea.)
Although you might think of Great Britain as a fairly gentle landscape with few natural hazards, never underestimate the ability of the weather to turn and put you in a bad situation. There are several parts of this hike that pass through fairly wild country, particularly in the Black Mountains and the Clwydian Hills, where the weather can change very quickly as fog and rain roll in unexpectedly. Always be prepared with extra clothes, water and food to avoid the possibility of hypothermia, which is a potentially dangerous condition that occurs when your body can’t generate sufficient heat to maintain its core temperature.
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Getting there: The hike is normally done from Chepstow in the south to Prestatyn in the north, both of which are located in Wales. Chepstow is easily accessible by bus or rail from either Heathrow Airport (www.heathrowairport.com) or Gatwick Airport (www.gatwickairport.com). Prestatyn is easily accessible from either airport by rail. These airports would be two of the most common entry points for flights from Canada. Of course, there are many routing options, depending on your own individual travel plans. Websites for both National Express Coaches (www.nationalexpress.com) and National Rail (www.nationalrail.co.uk) provide excellent starting points to plan your journey. |
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Currency: pound sterling, or GBP, or GB£. £1 = 100 pence. For current exchange rates, check out www.oanda.com. |
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Special gear: You will need good, sturdy, waterproof hiking boots that are well broken in before you hit the trail. Hiking poles are highly recommended to help maintain balance on uneven or slippery rocks or steps. You will also need to carry rain gear, of course, including gaiters, as well as adequate supplies of food and water. Rain is inevitable. Make sure your pack has a rain cover and that it is also lined with waterproof facing or plastic bags. One particularly indispensable piece of gear for walking in Great Britain is a plastic map pouch. These are wonderful contraptions that you hang around your neck and into which you insert your maps/guidebooks to keep them dry as you walk. Then all you need to do is flip it up to check your location along the trail. I didn’t have one of these on my first National Trail walk and ended up with a rain-wrinkled, very weathered guidebook by the end of it. |
Offa’s Dyke Path, or ODP, is a National Trail opened in July 1971. Curiously, although it has been around for over 40 years, you will find different “official” mileage quotes along its entire length. (Even though Great Britain has adopted the metric system of measurement for everything else, distances are still in miles, on trails as well as roads.) The official website, www.nationaltrail.co.uk/OffasDyke, quotes 177 mi. (285 km), while the marker stone on the Sedbury Cliffs shows 168 mi. (270 km) and the fingerpost at the end of the hike in Prestatyn shows 182 mi. (293 km).
Suffice it to say you should expect to cover close to 322 km (200 mi.) by the time you are finished. This is because there are several places where you will need to leave the trail to reach your accommodation and then return the next morning to resume the walk, plus a few diversions that are not to be missed.
The path takes its name from Offa’s Dyke, a 1200-year-old earthen barrier built by King Offa of Mercia in the eighth century to mark the western boundary of his kingdom and protect it from the wild Welshmen on the other side. (Please note the path is referred to as the ODP throughout this chapter, while references to the dyke itself will clearly state that fact.) Although the ODP follows some of the most spectacular portions of the dyke, practicalities of access combined with the need to choose the most scenic route mean you will not see the dyke along its whole length. In fact, it is now generally agreed it simply does not exist along many parts of the border.
Beginning at the Sedbury Cliffs overlooking the Severn Estuary, the walk makes its way through woodlands and paddocks full of sheep and past romantic ruins such as Tintern Abbey. Following ancient drover’s tracks and quiet country lanes it winds its way through historic villages, sometimes in England, sometimes in Wales, climbing to the dramatic, windswept and remote high point on Hatterrall Ridge in the Black Mountains, then down Hay Bluff to a book lover’s paradise at Hay-on-Wye, a good spot for a rest day.
Some of the finest sections of the dyke greet the walker near Knighton. Prepare yourself for the “hill-waves” of the South Shropshire Hills, and some of the best walking on the entire path. Then on to a not-to-be-missed diversion along the canal path to Welshpool and the terraced gardens of Powis Castle. Take a breather as you follow the Severn River, then prepare for the dizzying walk over Telford’s famous aqueduct. Soon the limestone cliffs of Trevor Rocks loom, and then it’s on to the ominously named World’s End and more splendid ridge walking in the Clwydian Range. With any luck you’ll catch some views of the mountains of Snowdonia as you make your way into the seaside resort of Prestatyn and the end of the trail.
The Reverend Lord Sandford (admittedly he was a long-time member of the Offa’s Dyke Association) declared at one of their meetings: “It’s not the longest, nor the oldest but it’s certainly the best footpath in Britain.” And who could argue with a Lord?
You may have noticed this book includes two chapters for European walks and both of them are National Trails in Great Britain. I make no apologies for my obvious bias. People often ask me about my favourite hike and although I find that question almost impossible to answer, these are my favourite types of hikes. I have done a number of National Trails in Great Britain and the ODP is definitely at or near the top of the list.
Of course, this is entirely my view, but I love the freedom of being able to walk safely on my own, set my own pace and not worry about encountering a bear or cougar along the trail. I can decide when I want to stop for tea, take a photograph or have a closer look at something. I can decide how far I want to walk each day and where I want to spend a rest day. And best of all, I can do it all with a daypack while someone else takes care of my luggage along the way. (See the “How to do the hike” section for detailed information on logistics.)
There is no doubt the ODP is challenging. Not only is its length somewhat daunting, it traverses some remote and wild areas where you must be prepared for sudden and potentially dangerous changes in the weather. But the sheer physical and mental pleasure of meeting the challenge is extremely satisfying. Combine this with the chance to follow some of the best bits of Britain’s largest archaeological monument, to experience an incredible diversity of terrain and revel in absolutely brilliant scenery (as the British would say), and I’d have to agree with Lord Sandford that there are few long-distance paths in Britain or anywhere else that will match it.
In theory the path can be tackled at any time of the year. The long days of May and June, combined with the superb proliferation of wildflowers and the fact that less rain falls in the spring than at any other time of year, makes this an ideal time to go. I did the path in mid-May and the bluebells were breathtaking. Although summer is traditional holiday time, the trail is generally not filled with masses of walkers other than at a few popular spots. Long days and usually more predictable weather make this a good time to head out. Rainfall increases in the fall and days are shorter, but the autumn colours in the woodlands and the crisp days make this a definite alternative. Winter is not recommended, given the short hours of daylight and the high chance of heavy rainfall.
It was customary for the English to cut off the ears of every Welshman who was found to the east of the dyke, and for the Welsh to hang every Englishman whom they found to the west of it.
—George Borrow, Wild Wales (1862)
Borrow’s comments make for good storytelling. Unfortunately there is no general agreement among archaeological experts about the purpose or the true extent of the dyke. But the sheer immensity of the project certainly speaks to the power of the man who ordered and oversaw the completion of this great earthwork. His name was Offa and he was a ruthless and aggressive leader who was king of Mercia and Emperor of Britain from 757 to 796 CE.
Ever since 893 CE, when Bishop Asser wrote of a “great dyke” extending from “sea to sea,” there has been considerable debate about the where and the why of the famous earthwork. In an 1857 article entitled “Offa’s Dyke in the Neighbourhood of Knighton,” historian John Earle spoke of the difficulty in determining the “use and efficiency” of such “vast undertakings,” noting, “They partake on the one hand of the character of a fence, on the other of a fortification, and yet it is difficult to suppose them to have been either the one or the other. For a mere fence, … the work is too considerable; as a fortification they are far too extensive to allow of the idea that the petty nations they divided were powerful enough to keep them manned.”
It was not until 1925 that actual archaeological fieldwork on the dyke was begun by Sir Cyril Fox, who took Asser’s comment about “sea to sea” literally, observing that obvious gaps could be explained by the existence of natural barriers such as rivers or dense forests. He concluded, “it was not a military boundary” but “… a boundary defined by treaty or agreement between the men of the hills and the men of the lowlands.”
Since the early 1970s, David Hill and Margaret Worthington of the University of Manchester have conducted extensive research into the mysteries of the giant earthwork through the Offa’s Dyke Project. Their excellent book mentioned earlier, Offa’s Dyke: History & Guide, takes issue with Fox’s theories. Their mile-by-mile analysis has resulted in new interpretations about the extent and purpose of the dyke, clearly demonstrating there is little evidence that it stretched from “sea to sea.” They make the case that Asser’s statement was merely trying to give the impression of great length and the expression was “no more than a literary device …”
Although the research is ongoing, they conclude that conflict between Mercia and the “virile” Welsh kingdom of Powys, at the beginning of Offa’s reign, provides strong evidence of a military incentive for the dyke’s construction; and that it runs for 103 km (64 mi.) from Rushock Hill near Kington to Treuddyn near Mold. The sidebar on page 174 describes how a relatively simple agrarian society may have had the ability to build such a massive structure.
Fortunately for us, the ODP follows some of the best sections of the dyke as it crosses the hills from Knighton to the Clun Valley and on to the Kerry Ridgeway. As you pause to admire Offa’s handiwork, it becomes obvious that the Mercians knew exactly what they were doing, as they designed the dyke to take advantage of hill contours and natural watercourses to give the best views to the west and those nasty Welshmen.
It is not my intention to provide a detailed step-by-step account of the trail. There are plenty of excellent guidebooks that do an outstanding job in that department. (See the “Recommended reading” section below.) What follows is an account of the highlights of the ODP based on the stages I chose to hike over a period of 14 walking days (an average of about 22.5 km (14 mi.) per day, including diversions). The trail offers a large selection of accommodation in the many villages located on or close to the path, so you are really only limited by your ambition, your time and your stamina. (See the “How to do the hike” section below for trip planning.)
I walked the ODP from south to north. This is the usual direction based on the fact that the sun and the prevailing winds are at your back. But it is entirely up to you if you choose to be a renegade. When it comes to navigating, the waymarking on the path is outstanding. Expect to see a variety of fingerposts, plastic discs and arrows on trees and rocks along with the ever comforting acorn symbol signifying you are on the National Trail. Please note that the distance quotes for each day are based on the official trail route and do not include side trips or off-trail accommodation add-ons.
Routing changes are inevitable from season to season as a result of weather or erosion on the trail. Always rely on the waymarking and not your map or guidebook, since they may not reflect the most recent diversions. And don’t feel shy about asking the locals. I have found them more than willing to help. Having said that, I have also found they often know less about the trail than you do. Like locals all over the world, they may not be familiar with the tourist attractions right in their own backyard.
The ODP officially begins at the marker stone on Sedbury Cliffs above the Severn Estuary, 2.4 km (1.5 mi.) from the junction with the trail from Chepstow.
It is worth arriving a day before your start, to tame that jetlag, do a final reorganization on your pack and stock up on lunch provisions for the next few days. If you are staying in Chepstow the night before you begin the walk, and it important to you to cover every mile, plan to head out to the marker the night before. This avoids the need to hike out to the Cliffs the first day and then backtrack again to where the trail intersects the route from Chepstow. Local lore maintains there is a horse buried underneath the marker stone, which is a sedimentary conglomerate called puddingstone.
Chepstow Castle dominates the town from its perch on the tall cliffs overlooking the Wye River. The foundations of this massive structure were begun in 1067 by William Fitz Osbern. Don’t miss a chance to have a closer look at the castle and the museum if you have time.
Tintern Abbey as seen from the Devil’s Pulpit.
ROB DINGLE, OFFA’S DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL OFFICER
The day offers excellent walking following the lower Wye valley through beech and oak woodlands full of bird song, bluebells and the pungent odour of wild garlic. As you leave Chepstow you will cross John Rennie’s ornate 1816 cast iron bridge with a fine view of the castle. The bridge marks the boundary between Wales and England, just one of many border crossings you will make over the course of your journey. Don’t miss the river view from Wintour’s Leap a short distance down the trail. During a Civil War skirmish, Sir John Wintour is said to have jumped off the sheer 100 m (330 ft.) cliff with his horse and survived to tell the tale.
Soon after you reach the Devil’s Pulpit, you will come to the 1.6 km (1 mi.) diversion to the ruins of Tintern Abbey. The Pulpit offers a distant and tantalizing view of the impressive ruins resting peacefully by the river below. It is said the devil himself preached from the Pulpit in an effort to lead the monks down the path of evil. The side trip is highly recommended.
From the Abbey diversion, the path continues along the river, through woodlands bursting with bluebells and on into Redbrook-on-Wye.
The view from Hatterrall Ridge.
ROB DINGLE, OFFA’S DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL OFFICER
Expect another day of fine walking over a gently rolling landscape, through many sheep-filled paddocks and woodlands, combined with a few good ascents up to excellent views. The trail passes through the National Trust’s Kymin property, with commanding views of the ancient border town of Monmouth and the surrounding countryside before descending past more bluebells to cross the famous Monnow Bridge with its historic gatehouse.
The turreted Round House at the top of the Kymin was built by some of the well-heeled local gentlemen in the late 1700s for use as a dining house where they could enjoy the view.
There is little doubt you are in Wales here. Along the way I stopped for a break at St. Michael’s Church in Llanfihangel Ystum Llywern, a Welsh tongue twister for sure.
Llanthony Priory as seen from Hatterrall Ridge.
ROB DINGLE, OFFA’S DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL OFFICER
Some walkers may choose to make the long walk over the Black Mountains from Pandy to Hay-on-Wye in one day. This covers a distance of almost 27 km (17 mi.) making it a very long and tiring day, with the added risk of doing a large portion of it in less than ideal conditions due to the potential for bad weather. I planned the length of the preceding days so I could break up this part of the journey with an off-trail stop in Longtown. This required descending off the ridge for the evening and climbing back up the next day to resume the walk.
The trail from Llantilio Crossenny to Pandy is mainly across agricultural land with plenty of sheep paddocks and quiet country lanes. In the process you will pass the entrance to the White Castle, so called for the white plaster on the outer wall that remains visible in spots. It is open to the public and worth a look if time permits. Soon the town of Pandy can be seen in the valley with fine views of the Black Mountains and Hatterrall Ridge beyond.
Once you reach Pandy, the serious climbing begins up to the ridge past an Iron Age hill fort. Ahead you will see the track running over the ridge. Now it is simply a matter of keeping to the undulating path, and if you are blessed with good weather, enjoying the wide vistas as they unfold before you. To the east are the fields of Herefordshire with the Malvern Hills and Cotswolds beyond. To the west, layers of mountain ridges fill the distance.
Walkers who have chosen to break their trek along the ridge have two choices. They can descend off the west side to Llanthony Priory or off the east side to Longtown. The turnoff for Longtown lies between the first and second triangulation points and is clearly marked.
I chose the diversion to Longtown because there were more options for accommodation. The Priory alternative offers a chance to explore the ruins of the twelfth century Cistercian monastery.
In theory, walkers going to Longtown can head across the fields into town, but there are no clearly marked footpaths (that I found) and I was concerned about crossing paddocks where I might not have a right of way. So I followed the trail down to the road and into town. This was a very long walk of probably close to 4 km (2.5 mi.) at the end of a long day. I eventually walked into a bed and breakfast along the way and paid the owner to drive me into town. The town’s castle ruins are worth a look if you have the time and the energy.
St. Mary’s in Newchurch welcomes walkers with everything required to enjoy tea or coffee and a biscuit.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
Fortunately the cook at the inn where I stayed drove me back to a different starting point after breakfast, so I was able to avoid the long walk back. She assured me it was well marked, but of course she had never walked it herself. There was one waymark and then a plethora of sheep trails heading every direction up to the ridge. I couldn’t believe my luck when a Dutch couple I had met several times along the trail on previous days came along with their Global Positioning System device. We eventually found the correct trail and I headed out along the ridge to Hay Bluff, leaving them behind. The weather had moved in, so the entire ridge walk required slogging through rain, sleet, fog and strong wind. I admit it was an eerie experience walking through the rolling mist with not a walker in sight (except two crazy joggers I met who were running in shorts!).
These are exactly the kind of conditions you must be prepared for with adequate clothing and food supplies. I made sure my pockets were stocked with easily accessible snack food to eat as I walked. In weather like this you need fuel against the cold but you aren’t likely to stop and open your pack for lunch. The trail is well marked but I was exceedingly glad to reach Hay Bluff, a clearing sky and good views.
From the bluff it is more or less downhill into Hay-on-Wye, with lovely walking through fields and along country lanes. On the way you will follow Dulas Brook, the boundary between Wales and England. Legend says the stream ran red with blood for three days following a battle in 1093, but the reddish soil in the area may have provided a more mundane explanation. Known as the Town of Books, Hay-on-Wye is a good spot to consider as a rest day. (See the “Consider this” section for more information.)
The day begins with delightful walking along the Wye River then passes through the woodland of Bettws Dingle to follow country lanes to the tiny village of Newchurch.
Be sure to stop in at St. Mary’s church, where you will find a picnic table for walkers, and inside, a table stocked with biscuits and facilities for thirsty walkers to make tea or coffee. There is no charge but donations are welcome. Expect a series of long, steady climbs as you ascend Disgwylfa Hill and Hergest Ridge. Your efforts will be rewarded with fine views to the village of Gladestry and Hatterrall Ridge on the Black Mountains.
Finally the path crosses the ellipse of an abandoned race course to descend into the old English border town of Kington.
The path follows Offa’s Dyke near Discoed.
ROB DINGLE, OFFA’S DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL OFFICER
Expect another wonderful day of hill climbing with good views of the dyke and very pleasant walking through woodlands and open fields and along country lanes. Portions of the trail are actually on top of the dyke near Burfa. The view of the dyke near Discoed is popular in many photographs of the area.
The path eventually descends steeply into Knighton, “the town on the dyke” located in Wales with its train station in England. Congratulations! You’ve covered almost half of the ODP. The Offa’s Dyke Association is headquartered in the information centre, where you will find interpretive displays about the dyke. The clock tower on Broad Street was built in 1872 and is the focal point of the town, which actually sits astride the dyke. Thursdays are market day when farmers come to town to buy and sell livestock.
This turned into my longest trail day, partly because I had to go some distance off the path at Cwm to my accommodation and partly because I got lost trying to find it. My notes say that despite being a hard day of ups and downs, it was one of my most enjoyable walking days, with superb views of the dyke and the countryside.
My notes are also full of references to steep climbs and steep descents. The dyke and the path head inexorably north, across valleys and ridges running west to east, making for several stiff climbs and earning the section from Knighton to Montgomery the nickname of “the Switchback.”
Leaving Knighton, the trail passes by the information centre, following the Teme River for a short distance. Then whammo, the climbing begins! Make sure you have plenty of water (I almost ran out) and just enjoy the day and the spectacular views. Along the way you will ascend Llanfair Hill, the highest point on the dyke at about 431 m (1,414 ft.) then on to Cwm-sanaham Hill for more great views.
The quiet little church at Churchtown is a good spot to regroup, then on to bisect the Kerry Ridgeway. The road is called Wales’s oldest. It has been in use for at least 4,000 years, first by Bronze Age traders, then for over 800 years by Welsh drovers taking their sheep and cattle to the English markets.
Good news! This is a pleasant day of walking over field paths, quiet lanes and woodland, with some climbing but nothing compared to the day before. Your efforts will be rewarded with wonderful views over the valley of the Severn River and good walking close to or on the dyke. The track actually passes through the yard of Rownal farm, where the lady of the house kindly asked if I needed water. I was impressed, considering the number of walkers she must see over the course of the season. After leaving Leighton Woods, the path ascends to Beacon Ring, a spooky Iron Age hill fort at the summit of the Long Mountain, with good views across to Welshpool and Powis Castle.
At Buttington Bridge the path shares the span with an extremely busy road, making for a very dangerous crossing. It could take a while to get across here, but make sure to wait for a safe opening in the traffic, because the drivers have no room to go around you. Walkers can continue along the Montgomery Canal at this point, or take the 3.2 km (2 mi.) detour to Welshpool. I chose to break my journey here for a rest day and to have a look at the famous Powis Castle, a diversion I highly recommend. (See the “Consider this” section for more information.) The trail winds along the Montgomery Canal towpath, making for some excellent walking into the centre of town.
Thankfully, there is no bridge crossing required! Expect a very pleasant day of almost level walking following the canal towpath, then field after field along the flood banks of the Severn River. The path passes by the door of the Golden Lion pub at Four Crosses, a good place for a pot of tea, or perhaps a pint if you prefer, then rejoins the towpath for another delightful stretch of walking into Llanymynech. The name may be Welsh, but the border actually runs along the main street.
The day brings good walking over undulating countryside with some good climbs as the path winds its way through paddocks and woodlands, down quiet lanes and even across a golf course. There is much evidence of quarrying as you leave Llanymynech and ascend to the tiny village of Nantmawr, clinging to the hillside. Walkers are greeted with splendid 360-degree views from the grassy summit of Moelydd before descending steeply to the valley of the River Morda and on to the double-headed horse sculpture at the Oswestry Old Racecourse. But no need to worry about dodging any horses here; the last race took place in 1848.
The path follows the dyke off and on most of the day, then leaves it for good before you cross the River Ceiriog and arrive at Castle Mill. Castle Mill is a dot on the map, but bus service is readily available into the town of Chirk or you can safely walk along the verge of the highway to divert to overnight accommodations.
As you work your way north you are no doubt becoming an experienced stile crosser. Hopefully you have worked out the most efficient system for getting over them. There is a particularly good one along the dyke south of Chirk.
A wooden stile on the dyke south of Chirk.
ROB DINGLE, OFFA’S DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL OFFICER
The day offers a short but spectacular walk with lots of up and down and several options. From Castle Mill, walkers have summertime access on a diversion to Chirk Castle, a National Trust property open to the public. It was originally built around 1300 by Roger Mortimer, who helped Edward I defeat Llywelyn the Last, Prince of Wales. The official route swings to the west of the estate, with views of the castle on a clear day. Woodlands full of the pungent scent of ramsons, or wild garlic, and more pleasant walking along the Llangollen Canal lead to a decision point at the swing bridge at Froncysyllte. The official route crosses the River Dee via a narrow stone bridge, providing stunning views of the famous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, where walkers and boats appear to glide across the sky far above you. If you are at all challenged by heights or vertigo, the official route is recommended. (I admit, this is the one I chose.) Otherwise, you can continue along the towpath to follow the canal across the River Dee on the aqueduct and meet up with the official route on the other side.
Once past the aqueduct, you can choose to follow the towpath into Llangollen or take the official route over the Panorama Walk. The official route is highly recommended unless you are running out of time and energy. If you take the canal path you won’t miss the wonderful views from Castell Dinas Brân the next day, but I still think the official route is preferred.
The name “Panorama” offers a hint, but the remainder of the walk entails some steady climbing through woodland eventually opening up to reveal fine views of the ruins of Castell Dinas Brân sitting ominously on top of the conical hill ahead of you and the limestone bluffs of Trevor Rocks to the right. The hill looks daunting but the climb only took me about 15 minutes. Admire the panorama and then head down a series of switchbacks and a well-marked pathway to the town of Llangollen. (The ODP does not officially include the diversion to Llangollen, but this is the most logical stopping place on this portion of the trail and is a lovely spot to spend some time.)
Castell Dinas Brân sits brooding atop the conical hill, with Trevor Rocks to the right.
ROB DINGLE, OFFA’S DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL OFFICER
The day offers much variety as you cross scree slopes to World’s End, then head out over open heather-covered moorland and through dense, dark forest to meet the challenges of the Clwydian Range. Walkers have the choice of following the single-track road beneath the cliffs of Trevor Rocks or taking to the steep limestone scree slopes along the western scarp of Eglwyseg Mountain. Many consider this one of the highlights of the ODP, but I must admit I took the road. I am not good on narrow scree trails and was warned that some parts are not much more than boot-width. Both trails meet at World’s End, and assuming the world hasn’t actually ended, the way continues across a very barren and exposed section of moorland before plunging into Llandegla Forest.
Heavy rain forced me to stop at the tiny village of Llandegla, where I was fortunate to find a local bus service that took me right to Clwyd Gate. The remainder of the day’s walk, according to the guidebook, heads across paddocks and follows country lanes before beginning the climb into the hills of the Clwydians. (For the uninitiated, “Clwyd” is pronounced “Cly-dee.” The Welsh may smile inwardly at your attempts to get it right, but in my experience they won’t correct you. As for any of the other Welsh names you will encounter, all I can say is good luck. This is probably the easiest one along the whole route.)
Boardwalk crosses marshes and barren moors just north of World’s End.
ROB DINGLE, OFFA’S DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL OFFICER
Just a word of warning: all my notes for this day refer to many steep ascents and descents, with one comment that asks, “When will these hills end?” Some walkers consider the portion of the ODP over the Clwydians to be the most challenging of the entire trail. The path is not particularly difficult, but it is relentless as it climbs and descends its way across the heather-covered hills with little opportunity for shelter. The weather gods smiled on me this day – it was cool and threatening rain, but only spit a few times. Take your time across here. Enjoy the magnificent views and the wonderful walking, but be careful to assess the weather. The hills are exposed and definitely not a good place to be if rain and wind move in. There are some escape routes along the track, so have a plan in mind if weather forces you off the path.
With any luck the final day will finish up with fine views of the Irish Sea and Snowdonia from the cliffs overlooking the seaside resort of Prestatyn.
Along the way there is much navigating of fields and the inevitable stiles, combined with quiet country lanes. And of course there are a few good climbs before you finally make the steep descent through the Prestatyn Hillside Nature Reserve into town. Be sure to follow the trail all the way to the seafront and the sculpture on the promenade. Titled “Dechrau a Diwedd” – “Beginning and End” – it signifies the beginning or end of your journey along the ODP. Then give yourself a big pat on the back and go put your feet up for a while!
This is a superb long-distance walk that can easily be done safely on your own or with a walking group. It is also possible to do sections of it if the full distance seems overwhelming or if time constraints limit your ability to complete the whole path in one go.
Over the years, I have used the services of Contours Walking Holidays (www.contours.co.uk) for many National Trail hikes and would highly recommend them. They book all the accommodations, arrange the luggage transfers and supply you with all the guidebooks and maps you’ll need to complete the route. The trip is all prepaid, avoiding the need to worry about carrying cash for small B&Bs that do not accept credit cards. Many other companies also supply similar services for self-guided trips as well as offering fully guided options. For a list of other reputable companies, check the Trailblazer guide described in the “Recommended reading” section below.
There is also the option of booking your own accommodations, but this can be a slow and frustrating process, requiring the need to communicate with many establishments, only to have to change your plans as you find out they don’t have room on the days you want to stay. The official trail website at www.nationaltrail.co.uk/OffasDyke provides a whole planning section if you want to tackle it yourself. If you choose this option, you can also decide whether you want to carry all your clothes etc. or arrange for luggage transfers. In general, camping opportunities are more limited but it is also possible to do the whole trail using this alternative.
Despite the common use of Welsh in Wales, there is no need to speak the language along the ODP. And that’s a good thing, since the unusual combinations of vowels and consonants can be somewhat intimidating to say the least. If you want to take on the challenge of learning some basic Welsh words and phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s guidebook on Wales or their phrasebook called British Language & Culture. Here is a small sampling of words you will encounter in place names along the trail that describe a feature of the countryside:
In each of the other chapters this section provides ideas for places to see and things to do before or after you finish the main hike that aren’t actually part of the hike. But this chapter departs from the normal format to include a couple of outstanding, not-to-be-missed highlights that can be included as part of the walk itself. This is because the ODP is so long that you will certainly need to plan for a rest day or two along the way if you walk its entire length and these suggestions seem to fit well. Of course, these selections are entirely based on my opinion.
Just one of the many bookstores in Hay, the Town of Books.
D. LARRAINE ANDREWS
Hay-on-Wye, the Town of Books is the home of the internationally acclaimed Hay Festival that runs each spring and regularly attracts 85,000 visitors from all over the world. Former US president Bill Clinton famously called the annual celebration of literature and culture a “Woodstock of the mind.” For over 25 years the festival has attracted high-profile celebrities of the book and political worlds, including such luminaries as Ian McEwan, Bill Bryson, Gordon Brown and Al Gore. Unless you reserve far in advance, don’t plan on arriving during the festival, because there won’t be a room to be had anywhere. But it’s not just the festival that brings visitors. Long before the annual celebration, Hay-on-Wye was already a destination for book lovers, mainly due to the prodigious efforts of the King of Hay. Even if you don’t have time to stop an extra day, give yourself a few hours to browse through the impressive selection of bookshops to be found in this town of barely 1,500 souls.
Welshpool isn’t on the official trail but is well situated for a rest day and a chance to visit Powis Castle and its famous terraced gardens. Be sure to take the 2 km (1.3 mi.) footpath from town through the stunning parkland surrounding the castle. The Welsh name, Castell Coch, means the “red castle” and you will quickly see why. The castle itself sits on high ground above the Severn River, offering commanding views of the valley and the Long Mountain. Don’t miss a chance to tour the Clive Museum, an extensive collection of artifacts collected by Robert Clive – Clive of India – during his time there in the 1700s.
Dining options vary along the trail. Your accommodation will provide the traditional cooked breakfast to get you started in the morning. This seems to last me well past noon, so I generally rely on picnic-type food such as fruit, cheese, crackers and energy bars to snack on along the trail during the day. Most towns and villages will have a shop or full-sized grocery where you can stock up. Many B&Bs will make your lunch for the next day for an additional charge and supply an evening meal if you are stopping in a village with few other options. Or you can always self-cater. I find most establishments are quite happy to supply you with a plate and utensils and let you eat your own meal if you are so inclined.
Although Welsh food was typically viewed as lacklustre and plain in the past, there has been a revolution on the food scene inspired by fresh, local produce and cooks eager to offer new twists on traditional fare. A good example is laverbread, a high-protein staple of Welsh miners in the 1700s and 1800s that has recently been reborn as a delicacy served with seafood dishes. It’s boiled seaweed rolled in oatmeal and fried in bacon fat, traditionally served with breakfast.
Hygiene standards are generally high and there should be no concerns about most food establishments.
Tipping is expected. Normally 10 to 15 per cent of the bill would be considered reasonable.
Vegetarians: Although strictly vegetarian restaurants may be few and far between along the trail, many will provide some vegetarian options, including pubs. Most B&Bs are happy to cater to vegetarian concerns – just ask.
For websites related to the ODP, check out:
www.nationaltrail.co.uk/OffasDyke, the official site for the ODP; and
www.offasdyke.demon.co.uk, the official site of the Offa’s Dyke Association.
For general information on Wales, visit:
www.visitwales.co.uk, the official Wales site for tourist information;
www.hay-on-wye.com, the town’s official website, with good information on the Hay Festival; and
www.welshpool.com, which includes good links to other Welsh towns in the area.
There are several excellent guidebooks to the trail. Those listed here are the ones I used and would highly recommend. Also included in the list are some books of historical and cultural interest relating to Wales in general and the Dyke in particular.
Favourite Welsh Recipes, Traditional Welsh Fare – a small collection of local recipes available in many bookstores in Wales.
Kilvert’s Diary – edited by William Plomer – available online at www.archive.org. The local curate lived and wrote of his life near Hay-on-Wye in Victorian times.
Ladies of Llangollen – Elizabeth Mavor – an interesting account of the famous friends who attracted some of the most celebrated figures of the early 1800s to their home.
Lonely Planet: Wales – a good starting place to plan your trip to Wales.
Offa’s Dyke History & Guide – David Hill and Margaret Worthington – written by the two primary researchers on the Offa’s Dyke Project, provides some fascinating history together with the how and why of the dyke without the need to get lost in the technical mile-by-mile analysis.
Offa’s Dyke: A Journey in Words and Pictures – Jim Saunders – this gem follows the trail in all its glory with fabulous pictures and plenty of information on the history, the flora and the fauna along the way. It is the companion book to the BBC series on the dyke and is highly recommended.
Offa’s Dyke Path: Prestatyn to Chepstow – Keith Carter – the Trailblazer series are some of my favourite guidebooks for the National Trails. They offer comprehensive information on towns and places along the trail, flora and fauna, together with exceptionally detailed, easy to follow maps. This guide goes from north to south, which can cause confusion if you are walking the other direction. I still recommend it for the wealth of town by town information it contains.
The Book of Hay – Kate Clarke – Everything you ever wanted to know about Hay-on-Wye.
The Offa’s Dyke Path: Walking Guide to the National Trail – David Hunter – is the guide I carried with me every day. The trail descriptions are excellent and the historical information is outstanding.
The Matter of Wales: Epic Views of a Small Country – Jan Morris – the well-known travel writer is from Wales so she has her own perspective on her native country.
Welsh Traditions and Traits – Chris Stephens – a fascinating collection of tales about all things Welsh.
Wild Wales – George Borrow – an account of his visit to Wales in the mid-1800s, available online at www.visionofbritain.org.uk.