Treat the hall, stairs and landing as you would other rooms in the home – consider practicalities and functions, as well as style and visual appearance.
Halls, stairs and landings are fundamentally thoroughfares and you must allow for the smooth flow from outside to inside, from one room to another, and from upstairs to downstairs. When designing and decorating, you need to be very practical as they are areas of high usage and subject to considerable wear and tear. In addition, you need to make sure there is no chance of stumbling over furniture or slipping on polished floors or loose rugs, and to avoid accidents there should be ample lighting. Keeping their main function in mind, halls and landings should be planned to work well with the rest of the house. Be clear about your personal requirements and priorities.
VISUAL EFFECTS
Entrance halls provide the first view of the rest of your home; they should be warm, friendly and welcoming. If you have a roomy hall this makes life easier, but if you have a relatively small hall, there are clever ways of creating a feeling of space. Sightlines can help to create a bright, welcoming area with a sense of openness. From your front door, check to see if you can catch a glimpse of the back garden or greenery from a small window; or an interesting-looking room leading off the hall; or the sky from a roof light in the stairwell. Similarly, consider sightlines when choosing colours for walls and flooring; imagine how they will look next to adjacent rooms when doors are left open. Try to create flow through the home. Use mirrors in hallways to bounce light around and to create a feeling of space.
Sealed wooden flooring is a practical choice for hallways. This scheme also incorporates fitted cupboards for storage.
In a small house it might seem like a good idea to get rid of the hall and open up the living space. Think twice before doing this; it may extend your floor space in one area, but a hall provides a mediating zone – a breathing space – between indoors and out. In addition, it will deprive you of privacy; people outside will be able to see straight into your home.
The space under the stairs is often used for storage, but if you’re short of space it can be a really useful spot. Use it for a downstairs loo, a utility area for a washing machine and tumble dryer, or a small study area. Larger landings can also be used for compact working areas.
In a narrow corridor, don’t clog up the space by positioning a line of coat hooks along the wall – move coat racks into more spacious areas or cupboards. And even if you have room for seating, a thoroughfare is unlikely to be used as a space for relaxing. However, if you do have space it might be a terrific location for a decorative piece of furniture.
Don’t waste the wall space – use for pictures, collections and displays. Landings can also be used in the same way, and perhaps also for bookshelves.
In this hallway design the dramatic floor provided the inspiration for a bold paint effect on the walls.
▶ People need somewhere to wipe their feet – a large doormat is essential.
▶ A light switch just inside the door will be useful.
▶ It will be necessary to have somewhere to hang outdoor clothing. And somewhere for muddy shoes, umbrellas, roller skates, etc.
▶ A shelf or alcove where you can leave mail, messages and keys is useful.
▶ Never allow a hall to be cluttered – there must be easy access to other rooms and the stairs.
▶ Floors need to be durable and washable; consider the period and style of your house before deciding on the material. Tiles or sealed wooden flooring are excellent choices. If you decide to have carpet, make sure that the colour will not show the dirt and that it is easy to clean.
▶ Use lighting to pick out features – tables, bookshelves and pictures.
▶ Lower parts of walls are likely to get some rough treatment from bicycles, sticky fingers and pets, so use washable paint.
▶ Inspired use of colour will help you put your individual stamp on the hall, stairs and landing. In a small area, a single colour scheme over walls and woodwork can create a stunning impact. Subtle tones and complementary colours can add interest if you have panelling, moulding or alcoves. Dark halls may benefit from bolder colours.
Staircases often dominate halls, and while period-style or contemporary stairs can provide a dramatic statement in a home, with clever design ideas even an average staircase can become more than just a thoroughfare.
Most importantly, think about sightlines from the bottom to the top of the stairs; try to create some interest to draw the eye upstairs. Place a collection of china on a landing windowsill; put a decorative piece of furniture in an alcove. While it is impossible to line the walls of the stairs with anything that protrudes, as in halls and corridors, you can use them for collections of prints or photographs. The top of the stairwell is probably the largest wall space in the house, and an ideal location for a really large painting or well-loved quilt or tapestry.
The stairwell is also a good place to introduce a strong colour or a wallpaper design that will give you a jolt of pleasure as you move from place to place. As you will experience this only momentarily, it means you are less likely to tire of it. And consider painting handrails and balusters in something other than white.
FLOORING FOR STAIRS AND LANDINGS
If you have carpet in the hall, then carry it up the stairs and landing for continuity, but if you have hard flooring, such as tiles or wood, you will need to consider what to have on the stairs and landings. Fitted carpet is a popular solution – it is warm and far less noisy than harder options. However, make sure that it is hardwearing and easy to clean. Alternatively – if you want to make a feature of a dull, straight stairway – choose a carpet runner, using either carpet rods or various forms of gripper, with painted or polished wooden treads at either side. Carpets, fitted or runners, come in a multitude of colours, patterns and fibres – all of which are important considerations.
For open-tread wooden stairs, make sure that they are sealed well, but with a product that does not produce a high polish or slippery surface. Painted stairs can look stunning, especially if they are the same colour as used in the hall, but be aware that they can be slippery.
STAIR SAFETY
Stairs can be hazardous. If you replace a staircase, be sure to comply with building regulations. The rules relate to size and layout of stairs and apply to all new work (but not repairs to existing stairs).
A key safety issue is lighting. Make sure staircases are well lit; low-level lighting is acceptable as long as there is a clear distinction between riser and tread. Another issue is flooring: avoid polished wooden treads – they may prove to be too slippery. Badly laid carpets can cause accidents, so make sure a professional fits them.
Finally, steps should have a maximum rise of 22cm (8½in) and rails should be a minimum of 0.9m (3ft) high for both stairs and landings.
Positioning the handrail away from the main living area means that the space is not broken up; painting it in a light colour also maximises the feeling of openness.
It is important that the style of staircase you choose fits in with the rest of your house. These boxed-in stairs blend in well with the retro style of the room.
Completely open stairs can be unsafe. Here, vertical handrails provide stability while keeping the space open.
In a wide hallway, built-in storage is an elegant way to provide much-needed storage for the whole family.
In this hallway, a demi lune table creates a focal point. Decorative items and artwork provide interest in a space that is usually just a thoroughfare.
Don’t be afraid to use colour when decorating your stairs – in openplan spaces it can provide a focal point and link the different areas together.
Understanding what you want out of your living space is crucial to its success: you need to make sure the room fulfils all of its functions as well as being somewhere you want to spend your time. Careful planning is key.
PLANNING
The best way to start is with a floor plan: it will help you visualise how the various elements of the room will work together before you begin to move things around. Start with your windows and doors and also include features like plugs and radiators – these are all features that can’t be moved.
POSITIONING YOUR FURNITURE
Seating area: This usually comprises the main element of a living room, and is often arranged around a focal point such as the television or a fireplace. Make sure you choose the best position for the sofa relative to the television, speakers and tables. For entertaining, it helps to have chairs grouped together, and make sure there are surfaces within easy reach for people to put drinks, etc.
Dining area: For dual-function living/dining rooms, the amount of space you dedicate to each function will depend on the size of table you need, although extendable tables are a useful way to save space when not in use. Something else to consider is the position of the dining table relative to the kitchen – the nearer the better when carrying plates. The dining area can also double up as a craft area when necessary.
Here, a children’s area is defined using a colourful rug, a section of wall painted using blackboard paint, and an upcycled cupboard for storage.
A reading corner can be created using a comfortable chair and good lighting; a table within reach is also useful.
Work/study area: To enable people to work or study effectively, it helps to place the desk so that it faces away from the seating area. Making use of alcoves can provide an element of privacy and utilise spaces that might otherwise be wasted. As well as a desk you might also want to include a comfortable chair with good lighting for reading.
Play area: If you do not have the space for a separate playroom for your children you can create a play corner with some good storage that enables the toys to be stored out of sight. Try to position the play area away from the main seating area so that when the toys are packed away you still have a ‘grown-up’ space for relaxing or entertaining.
▶ The seat depth and back height should allow you to sit comfortably, neither too slumped nor too upright, and to get up easily.
▶ Look for a frame with smooth, well-fitting joints and no knots, splits or cracks. When you sit down it shouldn’t ‘give’ more than a little.
▶ Cushions should be well stuffed, and seams stitched straight and strong.
▶ A washable loose cover is a good idea if you have children or animals.
▶ Don’t overcrowd a small room with a huge sofa. But in a large room, a tiny sofa will disappear.
▶ Will it go through your front door? If your hall is exceptionally narrow, look for a model with removable back, arms and/or legs.
Group sofas together to make the most of your space; here, a contrasting box adds surface for books and mugs.
Whether you choose designer style or second-hand bargains, aim to buy furniture that is well-made, comfortable and solid. Quality pieces will stand the test of time and give great value for money.
When we furnish a room, very few of us start from scratch. Try to include pieces you own, and mix with carefully chosen items to complete the look.
FURNITURE FOR LIVING
What do you do in your living room? It can be a space for relaxing, reading, entertaining, playing, crafting, even working – so you will need to make sure every single item of furniture works really hard to earn its place. Comfortable seating is your first priority. A pair of sofas that face each other, or perhaps L-shaped modular seating, can be a good-looking and convivial alternative to the traditional three-piece suite, while a single sofa can be supplemented with an interesting chair or two, or even a beanbag or floor cushion. Coffee tables, often seen as essential, take up lots of floor space and can interrupt the flow of movement around the room; you may be better off with side tables, a console table against the back of the sofa, or even a small chest of drawers at one arm, which can double up as useful extra storage space.
In small rooms, look for neat, low pieces, but avoid making everything miniature, or you could end up with a doll’s-house effect. In large rooms, generously sized, high-backed furnishings work well. Group them sociably rather than placing them around the edges of the room, which can look somewhat institutional. If you are in any doubt as to how to arrange your furniture, there’s a really simple solution: make lifesized paper templates and lay them out on the floor. Simply move them around until everything feels as if it’s in its rightful place.
Living rooms, particularly seating areas, need to have some points of visual interest so that everyone can relax and feel at ease.
FOCAL POINTS
Traditionally, the fireplace is the chief focal point in a living room; firelight gives a sense of warmth and well-being. If you have a fireplace that has been boxed in, it is worth restoring, and if you don’t have a fireplace, it might be worth considering adding one.
Perhaps not traditionally, but certainly conventionally, televisions come a close second to providing a focal point. While most homes have more than one, the main living room is still a place where people watch television, and the place that operates as a home media centre, with computers, DVD players and CD players. All these items will need to be integrated into the living room. The television should be situated so that viewing is comfortable but not be unduly domineering. If it is the focal point, make sure you choose one that fits in with the rest of the room.
Windows act as focal points and, if you have a great view, think hard about how much privacy you need before you decide to add curtains or blinds. However, you will need to consider glare, especially when deciding where to position the television. When choosing a window treatment, make sure the colour and pattern relates to the rest of the furniture and flooring in the room.
Walls and ceilings play a large part in any decorative scheme; use colour or pattern on walls as a focal point. Paint a wall or maybe a partition in a strong or intense colour, or use wallpaper, to accentuate the way space is divided. Colour and pattern on walls can also provide a backdrop to a specific area within an open-plan living room. If you are concerned about space, paint ceilings a few shades lighter than the walls. However, a very tall ceiling painted in a darker colour will provide visual interest and an intimate atmosphere.
Once the furniture layout is settled, think about the lighting in the living room. Mostly it’s common sense: bright lights for reading; pleasing, suitably muted lighting for watching television and relaxation; and even more subdued, flattering lighting for parties.
In this simple scheme, fauxbook wallpaper furnishes the alcoves while a mirror adds a focal point.
A mirror enhances the effect of natural light and increases the sense of spaciousness. As well as creating the illusion of space, a large mirror on a chimney breast or in an alcove can create a point of interest. If mirrors are placed close to any outside space, they can reflect views inside.
Bevelled mirrors can look uninspiring if hung individually, but a collection of them will give multiple reflections and visual interest. Similarly, you can use various types of mirrors with a variety of frames in conjunction with other artwork.
DISPLAYS
The way you display a collection is almost as important as the objects themselves. Collections can take pride of place, say on shelving in alcoves; equally, a slightly isolated position works well (see Halls, stairs and landings). Either way, a display can be a very interesting visual point of reference. A glass cabinet will confine your collection so that it doesn’t spread and take over.
Tables can be used for displays: a low table with an arrangement of, for instance, small lacquer boxes or other objects, can also become a focal point in a living room. Use your imagination, you may come up with quirky alternatives that are a visible reflection of your own interests.
A collection of artwork – paintings, prints or photographs – is one of the most popular forms of display and can offer stunning visual interest.
Tiles have been used to create a large mirror to reflect light and colour around this striking room.
This symmetrical display of book pages framed in black is highly effective.
Love it or hate it, we can’t live without technology. Make the most of it or hide it away – it’s your decision.
There is no getting away from the fact that the TV is nearly always the focal point of a modern living room. But it doesn’t have to dominate. Avoid purpose-built stands as they are rarely very attractive – you are better off with a side table, low cupboard or shelf that suits the overall style of the room. And it’s easy to mount a TV on a swing-arm support or pop it on a wheeled trolley, so you can push it out of sight whenever you wish.
Alternatively, upcycle an old cabinet into an all-purpose media unit (drill holes in the back for leads and to avoid heat build-up) and you can simply shut the doors when the set is off.
Flat screen TVs are much easier to disguise than oldfashioned, deep-backed ones. Mounted on the wall, they can even become part of the artwork.
Chargers are probably the biggest bugbear of the modern home. For organisation’s sake, keep them all in one place – a drawer near a socket is neat and efficient. Or consider buying a single charging station that all your gadgets can sit on. There are all sorts of stands, fasteners, tidies and other inexpensive accessories that are no end of help when it comes to organising techno-jumble; then again, it is possible to do a neat job of it with handwritten labels and wire ties. If your remote control is always getting lost, just stick on some hook-and-loop tape so you can attach it to the side of the TV.
Cupboards or shelves can be used as media units to store or hide away satellite boxes and games consoles.
In large rooms you can combine a variety of different wall coverings to great effect. This room combines a dark feature wall with painted wooden panelling and elegant stripes.
Attention to detail and a cohesive colour scheme ensure that this midcentury modern scheme works well in the living room of this Victorian building.
Capitalise on high ceilings by using a small area of wall to create a large amount of storage.
In this scheme, neutral walls show off dark wood and leather furniture to their best advantage; the coloured tiles in the fireplace are echoed in the cushions and the unusual light fitting.
Fitted window seats are a brilliant use of space in a bay window, and the wealth of cushions makes the room feel colourful and cosy.
An elaborate chandelier and a pair of antique chairs complement this imposing stone fireplace perfectly.
A bay window provides a perfect place for additional living room seating; heavy curtains add luxury and will keep out draughts in cold weather.
While some people believe that dining rooms are outdated, others are embracing the fact it is useful to have a separate dining room that can also be used for other purposes.
Eating habits have changed enormously over the past 20 years. Everyone’s time is at a premium, not many people cook elaborate meals; it is quite tempting and very easy to buy a ready-meal or have a takeaway. In addition, a kitchen is no longer purely functional – it tends to be the heart of the home or part of ‘the family room’, where people eat, live and entertain. Basically, lifestyles are less formal than they used to be. These changes have played a role in the demise of the dining room, as have television renovation programmes, which regularly suggest that open-plan spaces have the wow factor. As a consequence, in many homes the dining room is the first room to be sacrificed in order to create a kitchen/dining room or living/dining room.
Formal dining rooms can still found in large houses or luxurious high-end properties, where space (and money) are not an issue.
▶ Keep the room alive by using the table for piles of books that can easily moved. Alternatively, line the walls with books to create a library.
▶ Use as an occasional office, with space for the computer and papers to be tidied away when you eat. Children can also do their homework here.
▶ Think about a games room – a large dining table can double up as a table tennis or pool table.
▶ Extendable tables are a good idea, allowing you to cater for different numbers of people and giving you extra space if you are using the room for other purposes.
▶ Flexible dining rooms can be dressed up for entertaining, or down during the day.
In this dining room the table has been replaced with a snooker table with a custom-made cover that can be folded back.
The debate about whether or not we are seeing the demise of the dining room is ongoing. Supporters of the dining room have excellent points to make, which definitely provide food for thought. For a start, having a kitchen and a dining room allows for separate cooking and eating areas, preventing cooking smells, steam and noise to permeate the dining area. Similarly, dining rooms allow adults to talk or listen to music in one room while children play, do their homework or watch television in another. Dining rooms work well when the space relates to other rooms in the house, and if you’re prepared to be adaptable, a dining room could become one of the most useful rooms in the house.
Create a bold statement and bring your dining room furniture back to life using paint effects.
Mismatched or different-coloured chairs can also add variety to a dining room.
Whether you have a separate dining room, or your dining area is part of your kitchen or open-plan living space, meals should be enjoyed in a comfortable, relaxed atmosphere.
The dining table is a focal point for lots of activities, for doing homework, playing games, conversation and, above all, for the pleasure of eating – everyday family meals and cosy suppers for guests. The table is the centre of any eating space, and there should be ample room to move around when serving a meal. But for the rest of the time you may want to position it to the side of a room or even against a wall. It can be moved when necessary, to accommodate guests.
CHOOSING A DINING TABLE
Dining tables come in all shapes and sizes, so where to begin? The choice of table will be determined by the space available, the number of people it has to accommodate and, of course, the style of your home.
Round tables will seat more people comfortably than rectangular tables, and are generally considered to be more sociable. There is no head of the table and everyone can see each other easily. Obviously, if you need to place a table alongside a wall, a rectangular table is a better option. And where space is at a premium, you might want to use a small table, again, probably rectangular, that fits into a recess or bay window; extra leaves can extend square and rectangular tables.
If the table is going to be used for different purposes, the surface will need to be durable, so polished wood is probably not a good option, although you can always use a protective tablecloth. Washable surfaces are important for relaxed meal times with children.
Wooden tables are the most popular, whatever their style, and if they are solid wood they will be extremely hardwearing. Glass tables can complement a modern room, and help make the room look spacious, because you can see through them, but if you have children you may worry that they could run into the table, or even that something could be dropped on it, causing it to break.
Apart from wood and glass, dining tables come in a wide range of materials, such as veneered wood, melamine foil finishes, chrome-plated steel and glass and painted wood. As with the shape and size, choose the material from both a utilitarian and style point of view.
Painted wooden furniture will give your dining room a fresh, Scandinavian feel.
An antique, vintage or second-hand table is worth considering, especially if it fits in with the rest of the room. They can be bought from antique or second-hand shops, online auction sites, and through auction houses. Very often this is an economical way of buying a dining table; a solid wood, brand-new table will be much more expensive.
In today’s less formal society, matching sets of dining chairs are no longer de rigeur – you can combine contemporary chairs with a vintage table or vice versa. The main thing is to choose chairs that are comfortable; there should be plenty of room for knees between the seat and the table.
DINING ROOM STORAGE
Cutlery, glass and china is often stored in the kitchen for ease of use; it can be washed up and put straight away. However, you may need storage in the dining room/area for extra china, glasses, mats and table linen. Sideboards, the traditional way of storing dining room accessories, are making a comeback. As well as offering good storage, they provide a useful surface for plates, serving dishes, water jugs, wine and so on. If space is tight, narrow, built-in cupboards might be a better option. These could be fitted either side of a chimney breast or along a wall.
Glass-fronted storage is perfect for displaying your china and glassware.
▶ How do you envisage your ideal eating area?
▶ How many people usually eat at the table?
▶ How often will it be used and for how long?
▶ Is the table going to be in a self-contained space?
▶ Is it going to be used for other purposes?
▶ Will it be subjected to a great deal of wear and tear?
▶ What is your budget?
In order to create a relaxed, comfortable eating area, carefully combine wall and window treatments, and lighting.
Separate dining rooms are mostly used in the evenings, for special occasions and for entertaining. Consequently, they offer great scope for decoration; this is one room where you can get a little carried away. Warm, dark shades work well and provide a cosy atmosphere, and are often chosen because they look good in artificial light – glass and silver on the table glitters in sharp contrast. Red is traditionally associated with dining rooms, but you could combine bold colour choices with contemporary boxy bookcases and keep other elements, such as curtains, more neutral for a modern twist. This is not to say that a dining room can’t be bright, airy and full of sunshine, especially if there are French doors that open out onto a garden. A lovely wallpaper design can be used to good effect in dining rooms, adding colour, pattern and texture.
Whatever the shape and location of your dining area, the décor should reflect your lifestyle. For example, if you eat in a kitchen/dining room, and you like giving dinner parties, use an informal colour scheme, maybe choosing two complimentary colours in each area. Be flexible, think about how you can transform the dining area in the evening. Use mirrors, not only to maximise light, but also to add a touch of sparkle when reflecting cutlery and glassware from the tabletop.
If you are painting the walls with a bold colour then the window treatment should tie in or complement the rest of the scheme. Lined curtains or blinds in a dining room will help with the acoustics – an important yet often overlooked element; easy conversation is key to any gathering around the dining table.
Lighting is an essential factor in defining spaces and creating mood; use lighting to help put your dining table in focus. A strong central light over the table can look stunning, but the height is crucial – it must not glare in people’s eyes. Keep other light sources subdued for maximum effect – dimmer switches will help. Experiment with the level of lighting to achieve the perfect balance. And remember, when you are entertaining, there is nothing quite like low-tech, soft, flattering candlelight.
If your office forms part of your dining room your office furniture will need to fit in with the rest of your design scheme.
A STYLISH STUDY
When working from home, personality is as important as efficiency so, provided they are practical, why not look for more interesting alternatives such as old school lockers, a blackboard resting on a pair of metal filing cabinets, an architect’s plan chest or a distressed kitchen dresser? And while it is a good idea to choose a chair on wheels that swivels and is height-adjustable, it doesn’t have to be boring black – it could be upholstered in a joyful pattern that will enhance your office. Hunt around auctions, junk shops, markets and the like for home office furniture that you actually find appealing. As long as it’s in good condition and suits the space, there are no limits on style.
Traditional writing desks are beautiful pieces of furniture as well as being a useful addition to any family space.
Dining room tables and chairs do not need to match; you can mix different styles of chairs or mix chairs and benches.
Use built-in shelving in dining rooms to create a library area or provide an interesting display.
In this dining room the table has been replaced with a snooker table with a custom-made cover that can be folded back.
Add colour and interest to a large table with a simple row of plants.
Lined curtains or blinds in a dining room will help with the acoustics when entertaining; always make sure the window treatments complement the rest of the scheme.
What makes a good-looking, functional kitchen – where you can cook, eat and spend time together as a family? Careful planning is the answer.
First, assess exactly what you need from the kitchen. Ask yourself lots of questions. Who will use it and how often? How will it be used – for regular family meals or the occasional microwave dinner? And what about other activities – homework, watching TV, doing the washing or ironing? Do you have lots of kitchen gadgets and will you keep them on worktops or in cupboards? Do you prefer solid or glass-fronted cupboards, or lots of open shelves? Will you have some unfitted elements, such as a dresser or sideboard? Would you prefer built-in or freestanding appliances? What about worktops, sinks and flooring? Next, do plenty of research, and visit every showroom within reach. Consider what styles you like, and what you can afford. Ultimately, it’s best to avoid fashion fads; invest in quality and, above all, go with what feels right for you.
HOW TO PLAN A KITCHEN
Deciding where the sink will go is often a good place to start when designing a kitchen. From there, it is usually best to place the main food preparation area between the sink and the hob, ensuring that this worktop space is large enough to serve up a meal, and has enough power points nearby for small appliances. Depending on your hob/cooker, it may need to go against an exterior wall or chimney, and it should certainly be sited so that hot pans can be carried to the sink easily. Place the fridge at the end of a run of cupboards. Remember to allow enough space around your appliances to open doors comfortably. Experts recommend a ‘work triangle’ between the cooker, sink and fridge. This may not work for you, but aim to leave an uninterrupted space between the areas you use the most.
From the most traditional, solid-wood, Shaker-style kitchen unit to the glossiest of flat-fronted, lacquered modern versions, there really are endless styles of kitchen cupboard to choose from.
Colour, finish and style are not your only choices. Do you want units that are machine-made or individually constructed by hand? Budget will probably help you decide, and it’s worth bearing in mind that machine-made units are not necessarily poor quality, though they will have ‘plant-on’ doors that sit in front of the frame, rather than ‘in-frame’ doors, which have to be individually made.
If you want to avoid the bland, box-like look of the conventional fitted kitchen, vary things by specifying wall cupboards of different heights or colours, or replacing some solid cupboard doors with glass fronts. For a more open look, opt for base units on legs rather than those hidden by plinths, replace wall units with shelves, hooks and racks, and create interesting displays of your crockery, glassware and attractively packaged food.
FITTING YOUR KITCHEN
When buying a fitted kitchen, ensure that you are clear on who will install it – does the company have a team of experienced fitters, or will you have to find someone yourself? If you are buying a flatpack, are you confident in your own abilities to put it together? Just remember: a good fitter can make an average kitchen look amazing, while poor fitting can make even an expensive kitchen look terrible.
Worktop-to-ceiling, glass-fronted cupboards will provide all the kitchen storage you need.
Fitted kitchens are the norm these days, but you can still add one or two freestanding pieces to create a charming, informal look – or even create an entire kitchen from assorted cupboards, tables, dressers and shelves. The trick to mixing and matching successfully is to plan in advance, ensuring that adjacent pieces are very similar in depth and height, that wall units and shelves are aligned in order to create visual coherence, and that you have a pleasing blend of materials, colours and finishes.
These pale blue, Shaker-style cupboards are a perfect mix of modern and traditional.
1 Remove the doors and drawer fronts and take off the handles, hinges and any other hardware.
2 Thoroughly sand everything you plan to paint or stain.
3 Mask the areas on the insides of the carcasses that you don’t want to paint.
4 Carefully apply a suitable primer, undercoat and topcoat, or a wood stain.
5 Replace any hinges that are worn or not working properly and, if necessary, change the knobs or handles, too (you may need to fill holes if they don’t match the existing ones).
Worktops and splashbacks can dramatically alter the character of a kitchen. As well as looking good, they must be tough and durable, too.
First things first, worktops must be easy to clean, without nooks and crannies that can harbour germs. They must be tough enough to withstand wear and tear, and resistant to knives, heat, steam and water. Splashbacks and upstands (their smaller cousins) should be smooth, wipeable, waterproof and durable enough to protect the walls behind your sink and hob. Because every material has its own, unique qualities, your best option may be to fit different surfaces in different areas of your kitchen.
Having considered the practicalities, next comes the fun part. There are endless choices of material, colour and finish for both worktops and splashbacks. Most materials can be used for both surfaces (usually cut thinner when used vertically), so you can opt for a seamless, all-over look, or mix and match for an interesting effect. You can choose a surface that will blend into the background, or create a look-at-me, wow-factor feature. You may prefer natural colours or dramatic, vibrant shades. One thing is certain: whatever your style, there’s a surface to suit you.
Wooden worktops have a classic look but need to be sealed regularly to keep them in good condition.
A good-looking sink fitted with beautiful taps is often the focal point of a kitchen. And don’t forget the cooker hood – as well as a practical necessity, it can be a decorative enhancement to your scheme.
SELECTING A SINK
Kitchen sinks come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, colours and materials – your ideal choice is a sink that has the ability to withstand hard usage as well as good looks that complement your other fixtures, materials and general colour scheme.
Choose from stainless steel, ceramic, composite stone or even timber, copper or concrete. Sinks can be undermounted, inset, farmhouse-style or even moulded from the same material as the worktop. As for size, you may opt for a compact or corner sink to suit a tiny space, a one-and-a-half bowl version with a drainer that means you can wash up and rinse at the same time, or an oversized sink to cope with large pans and utensils.
TYPES OF TAPS
Choose a tap that suits the style and size of your kitchen and works with your water pressure. Check that it is high enough to get your pans under, and reaches properly over the sink. For best quality, look for a solid metal body with ceramic discs in the cartridge. A handy option is a pull-out spray tap that lets you rinse your washing up quickly and easily.
A matt black monobloc tap contrasts well with a chrome sink.
▶ Pillar: This has two taps, one hot, one cold, with crosshead or lever handles.
▶ Monobloc: One tap mixes hot and cold water, controlled via one or two handles or levers.
▶ Wall-mounted: A tap that frees up space and makes cleaning easier.
▶ Pull-out: Features an extendable spray hose.
▶ Swivel: An essential tap for reaching both bowls of a double sink.
▶ Water filter: Add a water filter to reduce impurities in your water.
▶ Boiling water: This tap provides boiling water instantly (there are safety features built in).
▶ Colour-changing: An LED light ring illuminates the water.
COOKER HOODS
A cooker hood is essential to get rid of steam and smells. There are two types: those which extract, via ducting, to the outside of your house, and those that filter out odours and smoke, then recirculate the clean air back into your kitchen. Before you buy, you’ll need to know the extraction rate – ideally 12 times an hour – and check how noisy the extractor is when it’s switched on. There are all sorts of style options, from totally concealed, integrated hoods to statement-making versions that double up as stunning light fittings.
This stainless steel cooker hood gives a modern touch.
▶ When comparing prices, check exactly what’s included: design and planning, disposal of existing fittings, plumbing and electrical work, associated building work, fitting flooring, tiling, carpentry? Is there a guarantee or after-sales service?
▶ Veneered doors are usually cheaper than solid wood. Chipboard carcasses are cheapest – but look for at least 18–20mm (¾in) thick.
▶ Avoid thin metal hinges, which can wear quickly.
▶ High-pressure laminate worktops are more durable than low-pressure ones.
▶ Don’t skimp on fitting. A good fitter can make a distinctly average kitchen appear fantastic, whereas poor fitting will make the most luxurious kitchen look terrible.
The current trend is for kitchens to serve as informal living spaces where people can sit and enjoy their meals together, adding to the enjoyment of life.
In a kitchen-diner, the person who is preparing the food or cooking can socialise with family or friends at the same time, and he or she is not isolated, or toiling away while others relax.
Kitchen-diners have two key functions: cooking and eating. If you are planning from scratch, always place the eating zone near a window or French (bi-fold or sliding) doors, where there is natural light. This will allow you to open the windows and doors on a sunny day, provide views of any outside space, and let the outside in while you are sat around the dining table. The kitchen zone can afford to be in the darker area as you can cook under artificial light.
If you have a long rectangular room, place the kitchen units halfway down both sides, as opposed to all the way along one side, then both areas can be used independently. For extra storage, you can always add a freestanding piece of furniture.
In a self-contained kitchen, you will need to create a dining area in the living area. When the kitchen is visible from the dining area, try to screen appliances and preparation areas as far as possible. Dimmer switches help to vary the focus of attention in the evening.
While it’s good to differentiate between the two functions, bear in mind that a kitchen-diner is still one room, so remember to think of the design as a whole.
In spacious kitchens, state-of-the-art breakfast bars can be added to equally ‘on trend’ island units. They serve many functions and provide an extra surface for entertaining: while the host is busy cooking, guests can be having a pre-dinner drink at the bar. They can also be used for informal meals, and especially – as the name suggests – for breakfast, when most people don’t have time to linger at the dining table.
In small kitchens, breakfast bars are a godsend, they needn’t take up much space; a narrow counter can be fitted along one wall, made from the same worktop as is used in the kitchen, or from wood to add contrast.
Whatever the size of your kitchen, breakfast bars can also be fitted in a U-shaped layout, a peninsula or room divider (half height), with cupboards and appliances on the other side.
FOLD-AWAY TABLES
If you are short of space you may not have room for a dining table and chairs. One solution is a foldaway or fold-down table, which makes the most of limited space, and makes it possible to eat in the kitchen. There are some ingenious designs available, including ones that slide out from under the worktop. Generally, though, they will only seat two to three people, but they can be useful when you need to grab a quick bite, and for informal meals.
Cookers, ovens, hobs and white goods form the engine of the kitchen. What you choose needs careful consideration in order to make preparing food both enjoyable and efficient.
With a mind-boggling array of products – cookers, refrigerators, dishwashers, washing machines and tumble dryers – to choose from, it’s a challenge to figure out what is right for you. Budget will help you to prioritise, but it’s best to choose good-quality products that suit your lifestyle. For instance, unless you’re always entertaining and catering for large numbers, don’t be tempted by a huge, multi-function double oven or range. This goes for refrigerators, too: ask yourself whether an American-style refrigerator, which takes up a lot of room and can be costly to run, is right for you; or will a low-level, integrated fridge and freezer better suit your layout.
COOKERS
Although there are masses to choose from, basically, there are two main types – freestanding cookers (stoves) or separate ovens (built under or at eye-level) with hobs fitted into the worktop. Of course you can have gas burners, electric hotplates, ceramic tops and induction hobs, in a wide range of combinations. Cookers, too, can be powered by gas or electricity, or a combination of both – an electric oven and gas rings – often deemed to be the optimum choice. However, in some locations gas is not available, so this will have to be considered. Base your decision about what cooker to buy on the following criteria: the amount of space you have, what will look good, and what will suit your requirements and your budget.
WHITE GOODS
Integrated appliances are a good choice because they help to blur the line between kitchen and dining areas. This streamlined option is especially true if you have to accommodate all four of the major white goods – washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator and freezer – in the kitchen. If you are lucky enough to have a utility area where the laundry is done, then it’s not so crucial and you could just have an integrated dishwasher. Integrated refrigerators, freezers or fridge-freezers can be built under the worksurface or at eye-level.
Freestanding fridge-freezers in stainless steel or gleaming enamel can make a statement in your kitchen, if you have the space. You can even have a side-by-side wine cooler and fridge-freezer providing excellent storage for everything from Sauvignon Blanc to sorbet.
Extractor hoods are available in some interesting and quirky designs.
HEAT, LIGHT AND VENTILATION
The kitchen is the only room in the house that produces its own heat: from cooking appliances and, to a lesser extent, refrigerators and freezers. It is also susceptible to the problem of condensation. An extractor fan is a good solution as it can produce significant drops in temperature and is an efficient means of expelling moisture.
It’s worth investing in a good extractor hood over the cooker/hob, particularly in kitchen-diners, or open-plan living spaces, to eliminate odours, grease and steam. The latest models are quiet with efficient lighting built in. However, the more streamlined they are, the easier they are to keep clean.
Conventional radiators are not appropriate in kitchens as they often waste valuable wall space, although they can be fitted in dining areas – underfloor heating works well.
When it comes to light in the kitchen, it is essential to have general and specific lighting. Around work surfaces, sinks and ovens and hobs you will need bright light. Integrated lights under wall units are a good idea – mini fluorescent strips don’t get hot, and send a diffused, warm light onto surfaces below.
Island units provide an additional work surface and can also be used as a breakfast bar or for entertaining.
A simple wall unit can provide both shelving and hanging space.
Incorporate fireplaces into your kitchen design by using the mantelpiece to provide additional storage.
In small kitchens white units will make the room feel bigger; make use of as much wall space as you can with a combination of shelves and hooks.
This U-shaped kitchen incorporates a breakfast bar; a piece of wire between the wall and the worktop provides a place to hang artwork.
This kitchen is clean, white and modern but the wooden worktop makes the room feel warmer and matches the flooring.
You can mix and match fitted drawers and cupboards with freestanding units and shelves to create a kitchen that is completely individual.
In a kitchen-diner always site the eating area next to a window or French doors where there is natural light.
This kitchen combines different types of freestanding units in a variety of finishes to give a rustic, French-style look.
Whatever the activity or task, it will always feel easier and more pleasurable in a stimulating, well-organised area.
Lifestyle changes have had an effect on how, where and when we work. Working from home is an increasingly viable option for many people due to sophisticated communication systems, as well as relatively inexpensive computer and office equipment. If you can take over a whole room, then you won’t have to worry about your office fitting in with other elements in the design scheme, something that will be necessary if you have to accommodate your office space in another room.
If you are working from home every day, your office should be furnished and equipped so that you can work efficiently and productively. Working at a desk continually can cause problems – back pain, repetitive strain injury (RSI) and eye strain. Choose ergonomically designed furniture; make sure that your desk is the right height and your chair has been designed for office use.
For more general use, whatever space you have for your home office – perhaps even a dual-purpose dining room/ study – flexible organisation is the key to success. It needs to be carefully thought through in every detail to create stimulating surroundings.
This office combines elements of modern and retro design with a glass-topped desk and a vintage chair.
SELF-CONTAINED OFFICE
Mix business and pleasure with the latest furniture and equipment for your office at home. Apart from essential equipment – seating, a desk with a solid work surface, good basic equipment and glare-free lighting – be creative with storage. You could mix industrial-type shelving with metal cupboards, or a traditional oak desk with library shelves. A piece of designer furniture can add instant style to a functional space. For anyone who has occasional meetings, a large table can be used as a flexible desk, as it can be pulled out from the wall. A wooden slatted blind is useful in an office as it can shade the room on a sunny day, or be pulled up completely when you need more natural light.
Folding chairs and a desk on castors mean that a workspace can be as flexible as possible.
MULTI-FUNCTIONAL SPACES
There are lots of possibilities for delineating a workspace in other areas, even if you only have a corner of a room to house a computer and a desk. Partitions, screens (freestanding and fitted) and storage units can be used to divide work and living areas. Some screens will slide so that the office can be masked completely. In dual-purpose rooms or small-space offices, organise the space and store equipment without compromising either work or living activities; you need to be able to clear away the office when not in use. The simpler the design, the quicker the transition from workspace to living space, and vice versa.
If you mainly require a workstation, the key decision is where to site it. Think about putting it near or in front of a window in a living area or bedroom; it may aid concentration. Make use of odd space – on a generoussized landing or under the stairs. Build your workstation into a wall of storage, including a fold-down or pull-out desk, with shelves above. If you have a very high ceiling you could even consider a platform level, provided head height is sufficient.
Floating shelves are a great way to store equipment, provided your sockets are close enough to avoid trailing wires.
▶ List how many things you need to plug in, and work out how many sockets you will need (you’ll probably be surprised). Fix several sockets about three inches above your work surface, and have a few hidden lower down, too.
▶ Organise all your electrical items together – so you don’t end up with long cables between them.
▶ For a desk in the middle of the room, you will need floor sockets.
▶ Adjustable wall lamps above your working area free up desk space.
▶ Get ergonomic: site your computer monitor straight ahead of you, about an arm’s length away; feet should be flat on the floor, with thighs parallel to the floor; your desk should be about elbow height; when typing, your fingers should be lower than your wrists.
A utility room is a useful space, not just for the laundry but also for doing other jobs around the house and garden. If you haven’t got one, it’s worth considering creating a utility area in a little-used space.
A dedicated laundry/utility room frees up living space. Ideally it should house a sink, washing machine, dryer and ironing board, as well as cleaning utensils, mops, vacuum cleaners and other household necessities. A butler’s sink is particularly useful for hand washing, soaking, bleaching or washing bulky items. Some sort of counter next to the sink allows you to sort clothes prior to and after washing; and a drying rack is also handy when tumble dryers can’t be used.
New-builds – houses and flats – often have laundry equipment (washing machine and tumble dryer) situated in a separate utility area away from the kitchen. This makes a great deal of sense in any home but particularly those with open-plan designs or kitchen/dining rooms. It not only provides more space in the kitchen, but also reduces noise from the washing machine, and the washing itself doesn’t have to be sorted and on view when you’re about to eat a meal.
In utility rooms, flooring needs to be durable and able to stand up to possible soaking. Walls should be painted in washable paint, which is stain- and scuff- resistant.
Many essential but messy tasks can be done in the utility room, out of the way of easily damaged surfaces. It is also a good location for boilers, freezers and meters.
Wall-mounted hangers are a great, space-saving way to dry laundry on a wet day without having to hang it around the house.
Recycling takes a bit of effort and boxes or bins can take up a lot of space, but creating an organised section in your utility area will make the job a lot easier.
A utility area in your house means that you have a dedicated space for washing and other essential but messy tasks.
OTHER SPACES AND USES
With careful planning you can make better use of your existing space. A corner of a garage can be transformed into a laundry, complete with plenty of storage for washing products. A utility area doesn’t need to have great head height, so think about the possibility of siting one under the stairs, or in a basement/cellar, as long as it’s not damp and there’s good ventilation. Sometimes you can even fit a washing machine, dryer, airer and shelving into a large cupboard, for instance, off the hall, or in an old larder.
Depending on the size, a utility room can also be used for other purposes. If you are keen on DIY it could double-up as a workroom – somewhere to store tools and materials, keep a portable workbench and a large dustsheet. Alternatively, you might want a hobby room for craft/art materials or a sewing room.
A downstairs loo is very useful in a family home and can be accommodated in a utility room (or vice versa for that matter). It could be screened off from the laundry area or integrated into the design of the room. There are space-saving loos that fit into corners, and the great advantage is that plumbing should not cause too much of a problem.
This small multi-functional space has to work very hard. A shelf has been fitted into an alcove to provide space for a computer, and the desk chair can also be used for eating at the table.
A fold-down table, an Eames-style chair and brightly coloured lamp create the perfect office space in this mid-century modern living room.
Places that might not otherwise be used can be made into office areas, such as alcoves, landings and spaces under the stairs.
The fabric for this desk chair has been carefully chosen to complement a Regency-style living room.
Decoratively, bedrooms should be restful, welcoming and, above all, personal havens. Choose a style that works best for you, that suits the structure of your room, and include elements that will make you happy.
FINDING YOUR STYLE
Bear in mind that your bedroom can be anything you want it to be. If you’re struggling to decide what style you’re after, think about which words convey the feeling you want to experience in the room. For instance, ‘light, elegant and welcoming’ or ‘dark, intimate and romantic’, then gather visual samples to meet these criteria. Keep your influences as broad as possible, but bear in mind it could be just one item that inspires you or that you particularly like – anything from a stunning, designer duvet cover to a vintage dressing table.
When deciding on a scheme, you may have to incorporate some existing furniture. Once you have settled on a style, why not upcycle a favourite piece, or an online auction bargain, to fit in with the new decoration. The results can be very successful and will give the item a new lease of life.
IDEAS
▶ Choose a theme – a unifying device – such as stripes in different widths, colour and direction.
▶ Add extra seating to store shoes on, to sit on while reading, etc. – it could be a bedroom chair or a storage chest.
▶ Banish television from the bedroom; the bedroom is about sleeping, it will keep your mind buzzing longer before you are able to go to sleep. Plus you’ll have more room for furniture and accessories.
▶ Add a collection or display of things you love in the bedroom – make sure you can see them from the bed.
▶ Try to include some drama into your scheme, or an element of glamour. It could be a theatrical chandelier or just a dark feature wall. Stick with one or two dramatic elements so as not to overdo it.
▶ Colour and pattern are important; take inspiration from a favourite painting. For a relaxing room, soft colours will work best, from warm light tones to earthy hues. Different shades of white reflect the light and provide a good backdrop for brightly patterned fabric.
▶ Ceilings deserve attention in a bedroom. Where you have no cornicing, consider wallpapering the ceiling in a pattern to suit your style. If you have a picture rail you could bring the paper down to meet the rail and paint it in a matching colour.
▶ Ideally, bedroom windows should be doubleglazed not only for extra warmth, but also for peace and quiet. If you choose curtains, use blackout interlining, for insulation and darkness.
▶ Fitted carpet is an obvious choice for floors, but it needn’t be expensive as it will not be subject to a great deal of wear. Wooden flooring or painted floorboards can look great; just add a soft, comforting rug at each side of the bed to step out on.
Invest in quality pieces for the bedroom: a great mattress and spacious wardrobes. For kids, function comes first, but have fun, too.
A comfortable bed is the most important piece of furniture in the bedroom – and a focal point for decoration.
A PEACEFUL SANCTUARY
A comfortable bed and all-encompassing storage are the key components of a bedroom and, from subtle pieces to statement designs; there are all sorts of options to suit any budget. Flat-packs are cheap and can easily be painted and given new handles for a more upmarket appearance (just make sure they’re not too flimsy). Second-hand items from junk shops or auctions can be a solid, handsome choice, too. Don’t be afraid to make furniture more useful by screwing in hooks, adding shelves or gluing a mirror onto the back of a door.
In a child’s bedroom, forget themed furniture and choose well-made, simple pieces that will still be useable (even if they have to be given a lick of paint) in decades to come. For younger children, keep furniture around the edges of the room, leaving plenty of play space in the middle. As for teenagers, a homework area is important, as is a chill-out zone with a relaxing chair or beanbag. Add a dressing table (this could double up as the desk), a mirror and, for good organisation, a pin board or magnetic board and some open-topped storage for all those bits and pieces that you’d prefer not to end up on the floor.
Bespoke cabin beds are on most kids’ wishlists; this one provides a cool hideaway.
Rich colours and fun features like invisible shelves make a girl’s room feel grown up.
▶ Choose as big a bed as you can. Disturbance from a partner (or children) is one of the most common causes of sleeping complaints.
▶ The mattress should be comfortable and supportive. Lying down, slide the flat of your hand into the hollow of your back. If it slides in very easily, the bed is too firm; if it’s hard to slide your hand in, the bed is too soft.
▶ If you and your partner prefer different mattresses, or are very different in weight, you may need a combination mattress, or two singles that zip together.
▶ Launder pillows regularly and replace every few years.
In a bedroom, after the bed, wardrobes are the second most important piece of furniture, so it’s important to find one that best suits your needs.
Mirrored panels on the front of this wardrobe (see right) are useful and also reflect colours around the room.
WARDROBES
Before choosing a wardrobe it’s a good idea to edit your clothes; it’s estimated that we wear only 20% of the clothes we own, which means a huge 80% of the space allocated for clothes storage is wasted space. Once you have cleared out your wardrobe, you can decide on exactly how much storage space you will need.
As with every other room in the house, careful planning is essential. Work out how much hanging and drawer or shelf space you will need. Think about the height of the rail – do you need one placed high enough to take coats and long dresses? Or would two at half height be suitable as it would double the amount of hanging space? Also consider whether you need space for other items – shoes, bags and accessories.
▶ Sliding: An optimum choice for bedrooms with limited space.
▶ Mirror: Adds glamour and elegance and is space enhancing.
▶ Translucent glass: Lightens the look of built-in storage, especially when backlit.
▶ Coloured high gloss: Use if you want to inject some vibrant colour into your room.
▶ Panelled: For a traditional or Shaker-style bedroom.
▶ Off-white: A hardworking wardrobe that will fit into most schemes.
▶ Wooden: These can be painted to blend in with the rest of the room.
Generally, a freestanding wardrobe is more versatile and will give your bedroom a more relaxed feel than a fitted version, which is more streamlined. For a start, if you want a change of layout, a freestanding wardrobe can be moved to a different position. Built-in storage does not suit every room, and you may just prefer the look of a traditional wardrobe, or it may be better suited to the style or size of your room. For instance, if you have limited space, you may only have room for a single wardrobe, or one that is narrower than usual.
Freestanding wardrobes come in a wide variety of sizes and styles; they can be bought on the high street or from specialist shops, and can be handmade, antique, vintage or second-hand.
BUILT-IN WARDROBES
If you want to make the most of your space, it’s advisable to go for built-in storage because it’s less visually intrusive and more spatially efficient. Options include various massmarket types, specialist wardrobe systems that can be tailored to your requirements, and bespoke versions that are made to your specifications. All options are available in a wide range of styles and materials.
If possible, devote an entire wall, from floor to ceiling, for built-in storage to make the final effect more seamless and to blend in with the room. You can also fit out alcoves or recesses to good effect. Fitted wardrobes can even be designed to fit round awkward angles, sloping ceilings and uneven walls, making the most of the space. However, they are usually more expensive than freestanding wardrobes and often need to be fitted by an expert.
WALK-IN WARDROBES
Mostly we consider walk-in wardrobes as a luxury, but they can represent a good use of space. If you are fortunate enough to have a large bedroom, consider partitioning off a section of the room and creating a walkin wardrobe with open shelves and rails. Alternatively, in a smaller bedroom you may be able to adapt this idea by taking some space, perhaps from an adjacent corridor, landing or spare room. This would mean knocking through a bedroom wall and dividing off a small area. While this may seem like a lot of work, it would ensure that your bedroom is a calm and clutter-free retreat.
Fit a large wardrobe into a recess to make the best use of space. The panelled effect helps the doors blend into the rest of the room.
Creating the right atmosphere for sleep and relaxation is the objective of good bedroom design, along with essential storage and attention to detail.
As well as wardrobes, you also need to think about other storage needs for your bedroom or bedroom/study. Ideally, it is a good idea to include bedside cabinets, a chest of drawers and/or a dressing table/desk. In reality, most of us have to compromise between essential furniture, a comfortable space and the practicalities of moving around the room.
If you have limited space for a chest of drawers or dressing table, you could explore the possibility of fitting a compact set of drawers into an existing wardrobe, with a pull-out section to use as a dressing table. For an extra surface in the bedroom, think about adding a shelf above a picture rail. Use it to store paperbacks or all those bits and bobs that can create clutter on bedside cabinets – it can also provide a neat solution for displaying decorative objects.
Another good use of space is to go for a small chest of drawers either side of a double bed, rather than a bedside cabinet. Many companies produce slimline units, with five or six drawers, that function as bedside tables. However, if you can fit a chest of drawers or dressing table into your bedroom, it will certainly prove very useful and can double up as a desk.
In a bedroom, shelving can be used for many different functions.
DRESSING TABLES
Once considered an essential piece of bedroom furniture, dressing tables aren’t for everyone, but the latest dressing tables are compact, chic and provide a stylish space for lotions and potions. If you fancy a styling zone in your bedroom, with everything to hand, then opt for a dressing table. Make-up and jewellery can be hidden away in the drawers or on top in lovely boxes or baskets. Some have mirrors built in, or you could add a freestanding vanity mirror that suits your style. Options include: an Art Deco console table in birch and mirrored glass, a painted dressing table with a feminine feel, a leather and chrome table which can double up as a desk, a unisex dark oak design and a modern classic in oak with a matching stool. You could even buy a handmade trunk, with a hardened canvas exterior; these have masses of storage – mini drawers, compartments, etc. – making them ideal for a bedroom that’s tight on space.
Of course, you could opt for an antique or vintage dressing table; they come in many shapes and sizes, and not only provide a practical place to put on the glamour, but also make a big style impact in a bedroom.
MIRRORS
Bedrooms definitely need at least one mirror, whether it sits on the dressing table or chest of drawers, on a wall, or is full length. Make a style statement with a distinctive mirror, which will make a room look brighter and bigger. A full-length mirror is extremely useful for getting ready.
With so many shapes and sizes, mirrors are a versatile decorative element that gives instant elegance to a bedroom with very little effort. They can brighten up dark corners and there’s a mirror for everyone’s taste.
With antique furniture, consider reupholstering to add pattern and texture.
Here, the imposing stone fireplace that could dominate the room has been given a quirky touch with a display of soup tins.
Interest has been added to the large wall facing the bed with a painted white section; the useful shelf that marks the end of the vertical could double as a dressing table or work area.
This luxurious sleigh bed has been made even more sumptuous with the addition of a canopy suspended from the ceiling.
The painted floor adds to the feeling of space in this rustic, softly coloured bedroom that has been decorated with quirky, vintage-style pieces.
The feature wall behind this elaborate wooden bed has been set inside a ‘frame’ made from Edwardian-style architrave.
This serene scheme of muted greys includes a subtle, wallpaper-like pattern that has been stencilled onto one wall.
From a calm and comforting nursery for a newborn baby to a teenager’s cool, high-tech hang-out, a child’s room needs to change as much as they do.
BABIES
Nurseries for young babies should be calm and comforting spaces, both to allow them to sleep as easily and soundly as possible, and also to provide a peaceful place for feeding and changing.
Moses baskets, cribs or small cots are ideal for the first few months when parents want to keep the baby in their bedroom. Tiny babies will be happy in fairly enclosed spaces; however, they are not absolutely essential, as they will be quickly outgrown. Cots that allow you to adjust the height of the mattress as the baby grows provide more flexibility. When a small crib or basket has been outgrown – at about 3–6 months – it is a good idea to move the baby into a proper cot in his or her own room to encourage a settled sleep routine. You can buy two-in-one cot beds that will turn into grown-up beds when the baby gets older.
NURSERY FURNITURE
Choose well-made furniture for strength, safety, flexibility and good looks. For babies and very young children, storage should be adultorientated for ease of changing, feeding and dressing. A chest of drawers is more useful than a wardrobe as a baby’s clothes tend to be folded rather than hung up; in addition, a changing mat can be added on the top.
A shelf close to the changing mat is very useful for storing all the necessary creams, etc., within easy reach. Shelving makes good all-purpose storage for toys, games and picture books (and for books, computer games and DVDs later); position shelves so the baby can see and enjoy them from the cot.
This is a room where you will spend a great deal of time, so add a comfortable low chair for nursing the baby.
Like beds, under cot spaces make good storage areas; you can buy storage boxes on castors, which makes access even easier.
CURTAINS AND BLINDS
Windows in a nursery will need either curtains or blinds to block out all light when the baby needs to sleep. These can be any colour, as long as curtains are lined with blackout material and blinds are blackout quality. Alternatively, you could combine some pretty unlined voile curtains with a blackout blind. Opt for delicate shades and tactile fabrics for extra cosiness. Consider keeping walls neutral and choosing simple wall stickers to add interest.
Lighting should be bright so that you can see what you’re doing when changing and dressing babies, but soft for night feeds. A dimmer switch is ideal in a baby’s room.
Stickers and feature walls are easy ways to liven up a baby’s room.
▶ Don’t position the cot or bed underneath a window, directly against a radiator or with shelves or appliances above that a child can get hold of.
▶ Avoid hanging heavy pictures or mirrors above the cot or bed.
▶ Secure all tall or heavy items of furniture by fixing it to the wall with anti-toppling devices such as fixing brackets.
▶ Use socket covers to keep plug sockets safe from probing fingers.
▶ Keep trailing lamp cords out of children’s reach, to prevent injury from pulling on them.
▶ Fit window locks and latches so that windows will only open up to 10cm (4in).
▶ Bunk beds are not suitable for children under six years old.
A child’s room can give you a great deal of scope for design; it can look as smart and stylish as any other room in the house.
When choosing paint colour or wallpaper, it’s a good idea to allow children a say in the decoration – if he or she is involved the chances are that the room will be treated with greater care and consideration. Walls need to be finished in a surface that is tough and easy to clean, such as washable paint or wallpaper. Children grow out of fads quickly, so rather than decorate a complete room in the latest cartoon-hero wallpaper or converting it into an authentic pirate ship, use a neutral background and introduce colour with bed linen, curtains or blinds, or maybe with stickers and fun accessories. A feature wall is also a good way of turning a nursery into a bedroom.
BEDS AND FURNITURE
When it’s time for your child to move out of their cot, choose between a toddler bed and a full-sized bed. Toddler beds come in a wide range of styles and colours, and some are extendable to keep up with your growing child. However, a full-size bed, fitted with safety rails, is a better long-term buy than a child’s bed.
Stringent safety regulations govern the dimensions of bunk beds, and they are not advisable for children under six years old. However, they are space-saving, providing two beds in a room that would not accommodate two beds side by side, or where they would be very cramped; and, of course, children love climbing up to bed. Cabin beds are also a good option, because there is lots of fitted storage underneath. Some children’s beds are versatile and can be turned upside down, allowing you to have a low bed or a high bed. The space underneath is perfect for extending the floor space/ play area, storage or an extra mattress for sleepovers.
Upcycling is not just for adults; give your child’s room a unique personality with upcycled furniture – a chest of drawers or wardrobe. You could even use a combination of paint and wallpaper, for instance, and paint the frame of the drawers or wardrobe and jazz up the drawer fronts or doors with wallpaper offcuts.
Use all of the space in the bedroom. If an alcove or recess is not being utilised, try adding some shelves, and you can then use them to display books or an assortment of items.
PLAYING
Energetic toddlers need a play area as well as a secure and cosy bed to snuggle down in at night.
Children also love to draw, and you can create a semi-permanent drawing space if you paint a panel or a section of a wardrobe door with blackboard paint – with a few sticks of chalk, they will always have somewhere to express themselves. Keep the rest of the door white or a pale colour so that the black doesn’t dominate the space.
Children often have to share a room. If possible, provide each with a clearly defined area. It doesn’t have to be divided equally; ages and interests will be a determining factor. If it’s not possible to divide the space, provide some kind of base or private place where they can keep their special possessions or hide them away.
Create a versatile bed/sitting room for your teenager, that incorporates space to sleep, study and entertain, together with clever storage.
Teenagers can be pretty tough customers when it comes to designing a bedroom, they will have their own ideas, so include them when deciding on a scheme. Most teenagers want a more adult room – a living-room-cum-study-cumbedroom. Let them experiment with colours and designs that you might not choose for yourself. If they choose the main colour you can then help them to pick a scheme that works well around it.
BEDS
One of the main concerns in a teenager’s room is to make the bed look more like a sofa. Divans are ideal because they can be pushed against a wall in a corner with plenty of cushions and used as seating, as well as for sleeping. In addition, they often provide storage space underneath.
A loft bed or sleeping platform is a good idea, especially if you have limited space, although the ceiling must be reasonably high. Raising the level of the bed leaves space underneath for a study, relaxing or storage area. If you use the space for a study then it will also free up wall space for notice boards, posters or photographs.
If there’s room for a small sofabed as well as a bed, there’ll be plenty of seating when friends are round – and it will convert into a bed if someone needs to sleep over.
STORAGE
Not necessarily, but almost inevitably, teenagers are messy and unconcerned about being tidy. All you can do is just provide as much storage as you can and encourage them to use it. Respect his or her privacy and so don’t go in unasked and tidy up yourself.
Furniture need not be brand new; vintage finds mixed with new pieces can create a quirky look for a teenager, and they might like to customise old furniture themselves.
Clothing is important to teenagers so make sure there is plenty of cupboard and drawer space: a built-in or freestanding wardrobe and a large chest of drawers with dividers to keep things organised.
STUDYING
An organised study area is important for teenagers; they need a desk or table to do homework and to study for exams, as well as for hobbies. Allow space for a computer, and shelving for other papers, pens and pencils and books.
▶ Laundry basket: Buy a large one, it’s a simple way to stop clothes piling up on the floor.
▶ Edit belongings: Get rid of clothes and any outgrown games, books, etc. so as not to clog up storage. Do it together with your teenage son or daughter, never behind their back.
▶ Instant update: Change bed linen, lampshades and rugs if your teenager tires of a scheme, or you want a quick makeover. And colourful, removable stickers are great for updating plain walls.
▶ Floor cushions and beanbags: These provide relaxed seating for chillout areas.
▶ A full-length mirror: Most teenagers like to check out how they look.
▶ Lighting: Flexibility is key; dimmers provide mood changes but make sure there is good light for reading by the desk and at the bedside.
In this grown-up girl’s room, pale pink paint contrasts with a dramatic feature wall and matching curtains.
Adjustable lighting provides both general and specific illumination either for reading in bed or sitting down; the fittings used here are ingenious as well as pretty.
Quirky touches can make childrens’ rooms more fun: here, a sloping picture rail can be used as a marble or toy car run.
Every Lego-lover’s dream: Perspex cubes provide a great way to display creations, while the bricks have been sorted by colour and stored in a handyman’s organiser.
Combine the practical and the indulgent to create a bathroom haven that’s as luxurious as it is good-looking.
When planning a bathroom, ask yourself who will use it and how often, as well as how much space is available. Have you got room for a bath and a walk-in shower? Do you want a bidet, a pair of basins (handy if there are two of you getting ready for work at the same time), a built-in linen cupboard or a heated towel rail? Will space-saving fittings make a difference? It is always a good idea to plan everything carefully on graph paper, noting the positions of pipes, windows and doors, and allowing generous activity space for knees, elbows, drying and so on around each fitting. If possible, it is visually neater to run pipes under floors and behind slim false walls. And it’s not wasted space – punch shallow shelves and cupboards into the false walls and you can create fabulously useful fitted storage.
KEEP IT SIMPLE
Bathroom fittings are available in a multitude of styles and prices, but simplicity is often the best way forward: plain, inexpensive designs can look wonderful when teamed with interesting accessories, and a sensible option is to invest more in moving parts, such as shower doors and taps. How a bathroom feels is vital, in terms of textures and temperatures against bare skin, and underfloor heating gives an efficient, overall heat, while freeing up space against the walls – perhaps for a statement towel warmer. And lighting is important in creating an efficient atmosphere for a quick morning shower, or a more relaxing ambience for an evening bath.
Iridescent mosaic tiles add sparkle to this wetroom design.
1 If you don’t like the colour or pattern of your tiles, paint over them. First, sand the tiles to scuff the surface and then clean both the tiles and the grout scrupulously with sugar soap. Apply tile paint with either a natural bristle brush or a gloss roller. If the colour change is dramatic, you may need a second coat. Leave to dry, then redraw the grout lines with a special pen.
2 Give plain tiles a makeover with stickers – they come in a number of different designs, and are durable, wipeable and, if you change your mind, you can just take them off. They are relatively easy to apply (the surface must be smooth and clean), provided you mark their positions carefully.
3 To rejuvenate discoloured grout, either use a grout pen or, if your grout is beyond repair, remove it with a grout rake, clean up and apply fresh grout. It will look as good as new. You can also freshen up old sealant by scraping it out carefully with a knife blade and reapplying using a mouldresistant type.
A new bathroom is an asset to any home, but before you replace your old one or refurbish an existing one, it’s important to know about basic plumbing and the relevant building regulations.
Once bathroom fittings are plumbed in they are permanent fixtures that you are unlikely to want to change, so planning is essential. Sometimes planning a small bathroom can be easy: given you have to house a minimum of three units – bath or shower, basin and WC – and take account of windows and doors, there may only be one solution in terms of layout. In addition, you must consider the plumbing and drainage. For instance, unless you want to go to great expense of rerouting pipes, the WC has to be sited close to the existing soil stack, so this gives you a starting point.
Plumbing can be costly, so it is worth aiming for a streamlined solution for bathrooms. Bringing water to the bathroom and downstairs loo is more efficient the nearer they are to the source of supply. Unless you have a combination boiler, cold water has to come from the tank (often in the roof space), but hot water comes from the cylinder – bathrooms and cylinders should ideally be placed close to one another, so that the pipe that runs to the boiler or other source of hot water is not too long. A combination boiler heats the water directly from the mains, so there is no need to have a water tank or hot-water cylinder.
If you choose a roll-top bath, make sure your floor is able to take the weight when it is full of water.
Cupboards built under sinks can help conceal pipework as well as providing storage.
Most houses have their waste, i.e. waste from kitchens and bathrooms, run into one main drain, so it is more economical in terms of plumbing to site the kitchen and bathroom on the same side of the house.
BUILDING REGULATIONS
When you are refitting a bathroom with new units, you do not generally need building regulations approval, except possibly for drainage and electricals. However, for new bathrooms in extensions, or where there hasn’t been one before, building regulations approval is likely to be required to ensure that the room will have adequate ventilation and drainage (and meet requirements in respect of structural stability, electrical and fire safety). Check with your local authority.
VENTILATION
In bathrooms, ventilation is vital; moisture in the air can lead to condensation and mould growth, which could spread to the rest of the house. So building regulations are quite strict in this respect. If you wish to know more about the building regulations and ventilation you can download them for free at www.planningportal.gov.uk/ approved documents.
High-level cisterns provide a good flush, but you have to have enough ceiling height to install one.
Bear in mind that in bathrooms surface decoration needs to be tough, waterproof and easy to clean, so it can withstand wear and tear from extremes of temperature, steam and moisture.
FLOORS
First and foremost, bathroom floors need to be waterresistant and easy to clean – a hard surface is preferable. There is a wide range of choices: sheet vinyl or tiles, stone, slate, porcelain or ceramic tiles and laminate flooring (suitable for bathrooms). Wooden flooring can be used in a bathroom as long as it has an appropriate durable finish.
If a new bathroom is installed in a room where the floor is constructed of timber joists and boards, there is a risk of the floor being overloaded from the bath once it is full of water – therefore, the floor may need to be strengthened. A structural engineer will be able to assess the floor and determine this for you.
WALLS
Paint is the easiest and most inexpensive way of decorating bathroom walls, provided they are in good condition. Use a washable paint or wallpaper, or nonwashable wallpaper protected with a clear varnish.
▶ Using colour in a bathroom can provide a welcome accent of vitality and interest – a single colour is enough.
▶ Mirrors are an invaluable way of enhancing space in the bathroom.
▶ Pay attention to detailing; junctions between different finishes should be as neat and inconspicuous as possible.
▶ Reflective surfaces, such as stainless steel and glass mosaic tiles, bounce the light around.
▶ Don’t limit yourself to bathroom-specific shelves and cabinets; consider stainless steel racks from kitchen suppliers or other open-shelf systems.
Ceramic tiles, glass mosaic tiles, tongue-and-groove panelling and the latest wet-wall panels/ PVC cladding are all options. Wet-wall panels and PVC bathroom cladding come in a wide range of designs, from classic stone and marble effects, to modern designs with a sparkling or iridescent finish.
LIGHTING
Direct lighting is essential for applying make-up, grooming and shaving. This could be combined with more indirect light for bathing.
Downlights recessed in the ceiling are neater and safer than pendant lights. Wall lights, either side of a mirror should be aimed at the face. Alternatively, you could always add a mirror with film star-style bulbs around the frame.
Sometimes mirrored bathroom cabinets have built-in lighting, which can be useful.
STORAGE
Restrict visual clutter to essential items only, such as towels, soap and toothbrushes. Try to build in storage wherever possible, underneath basins and between the basin and WC, or at either end of the bath. A cupboard under a basin can conceal pipe work and provide storage at the same time.
A simple solution for the basics – soap, nailbrush and facecloth – is a rack across the bath. These are particularly useful if you have a roll-top bathtub. Gels and lotions also need to be stored in shower enclosures: if possible, incorporate a recess shelf in the wall at the design stage. Otherwise there is a wide range of racks available. In addition, a shelf near to the basin is important for basic toiletries.
Bathroom cabinets are useful for storing medicines and toiletries. Store medicines out of the reach of children; either use a medicine cabinet with a childproof catch or secure a conventional cupboard.
You will need plenty of space for towels; rails should be within easy reach of the bath or shower.
Bathroom fittings determine the look of the whole room. There is a wealth of different types to choose from, but make sure they also suit your needs and your budget.
Wall-hung sinks and a contemporary freestanding bath.
When choosing baths, showers, basins and loos, cast your inhibitions aside. In the showroom, stand in the shower, climb into the bath and sit on the loo. It’s the only way to tell whether they are comfortable and feel well-made. And ask your retailer how products have been tested, whether they conform to British or European standards and what guarantee is on offer.
Baths: The more you pay for a bath, the more variety there is in size, shape and material. A standard bath is a 1,700 x 700mm (67 x 27½in) rectangle, but you can also find double-ended and freestanding baths, and a variety of shapes. Acrylic is most common but, if money were no object, you could choose a bath made from stone, wood, copper or glass.
Showers: Look for three key features: flow control, thermostatic control and easy cleaning. The more you pay, the more features you get, including accurate constant temperature control, a hot-water safety limiter, cool housing, water-saving, adjustable sprays and easy-clean functions.
Basins: The traditional option is a pedestal style in ceramic, but there are lots of other styles, including winged, semi-pedestal, counter-top or wall-hung. You can tell a good-quality basin by its weight and clean, straight lines.
WCs: Basic loos are of the pan and cistern variety, but if you pay a little more you could go for a close-coupled style (the pan and cistern are in one seamless unit), a back-to-wall WC where the cistern is hidden behind either a false wall or furniture, or a swish, wall-hung type.
If you enjoy an indulgent shower then a wet room is an interesting option – it’s simply a waterproof, walk-in shower area (pretty much any shape or size you like), with a drain in the floor, a drenching showerhead and (sometimes) a glass screen. Spacious and stylish, wet rooms are often seen as the last word in luxury, but there are pitfalls. Wet room walls and floors must be made completely watertight by covering with sheeting or sealant. You will also need a suitable drainage slope (or a pre-formed tray), high water pressure and – to prevent condensation and mould – tip top ventilation.
TIME TO RELAX
▶ Hydro-massage baths: Designed to reduce stress, relax and rejuvenate, hydro-massage baths bubble away your aches and pains just like a masseur’s fingers. They can also improve circulation and skin tone, and help you sleep. There are two distinct types of operation: whirlpool baths, which usually have half a dozen or so strong jets of water directed at specific areas, and spa baths, featuring hundreds of tiny holes in the base of the bath which bubble air upwards for a softer, fizzy feeling over the whole body.
▶ Chromatherapy: For the last word in relaxation, try chromatherapy in the bath or shower. A sequence of coloured lights washes through the water or steam, and can be paused, if you wish, to complement your mood. It’s said that reds, oranges and yellows boost circulation and stimulate the senses, while blues, greens and pinks relax the mind and body.
▶ Aromatherapy: Some baths and showers offer builtin aromatherapy, where essential oils are diffused as a gentle, scented mist to aid physiological and mental wellbeing. Lavender, for example, is a staple for relaxation and sleep-inducement, while grapefruit boosts energy and eucalyptus clears the mind.
▶ Super showers: Shower poles (or towers) combine several body sprays, ranging from a fine mist to a powerful drench, the former sometimes mixing air with water for a rain-like effect, the latter perhaps coming from a ‘blade’ showerhead. If you want to get gadgety, digital programming means that you can control the various elements of your shower from a single interface, with pre-programmed massage and temperature therapies for a truly spa-like experience. For an even more multi-functional shower, just add steam. Basic requirements are vapour-tight doors, a steam generator and a seat, but to that can be added foot massage, hands-free telephone, MP3 connection and waterproof TV.
Whirlpool baths give you a spa-like experience in your own home.
Usually, a bathroom will include a bath, shower, basin and loo, but your final choice will depend on the type and size of your bathroom – family, secondary or en suite – personal choice and, of course, how much you want to spend.
Research the market thoroughly so that you are aware of the full range of bathroom fittings available. In a showroom you can stand at a basin, sit on a toilet and even lie in a bathtub, to help you assess whether such fixtures suit you.
BATHS
▶ In a small room you may not have any choice but to position the bath along one wall; however, many manufacturers produce compact fixtures for small bathrooms.
▶ There is no real need to match sanitaryware; many styles of basin go with a Victorian-style roll-top bath, but be aware of non-matching fittings, they may be all white but shades can vary considerably.
▶ Sleek, modern sanitaryware can look good in a featurefilled period home. Equally, traditional-style fittings can look fantastic in modern homes.
▶ For a freestanding bath on a budget, make a frame around it and clad a simple bath in tiles, mirror or stone.
▶ Corner and offset baths can offer a good use of space.
▶ Designer baths are expensive, but when you want to make an impact in your bathroom, consider a freestanding egg-shaped bath, a wooden or glass tub. Generally, this type of bath takes up a lot of space.
▶ Roll-tops are also statement bathtubs; they’ve developed from the standard Victorian cast-iron variety to imposing, luxury copper and zinc bathtubs. Usually, as with designer baths, roll-tops do not work in small spaces, and they are somewhat impractical as there is nowhere handy to put soap and other bath products. Be aware that some reproduction acrylic roll-tops are not well made and can look cheap and tacky.
SHOWERS
▶ Showers are more economical and space-saving than baths. Most people find that they are more convenient, and some question the need for a bath, especially as there are so many fantastic designs for showers available.
▶ Ideally, for the best of both worlds, install a separate shower unit in the bathroom, but if you don’t have room, fit a good-quality shower over the bath, along with a glass door.
▶ Shower enclosure (cubicle) designs have become simpler and less cluttered; there are now walk-in options, curved glass panels and low-level trays.
▶ A custom-built, tiled alcove is a good-looking alternative to a ready-made unit.
▶ Fixed overhead showers can look fantastic, but, remember, getting your hair wet is unavoidable.
▶ Wet rooms, where the shower is not contained, maximise available floor space.
▶ If you have plenty of space, walk-in showers with a ‘dry’ area at one end where you can hang towels are another option.
▶ Most importantly, make sure that there is sufficient pressure to deliver a shower worth having.
BASINS AND WCS
▶ Basins come in all shapes and sizes – round, oval, square and rectangular. Similarly, WCs are no longer standard, and are available in a wide range of designs.
▶ Corner basins and WCs are available and can help make the most of space.
▶ Wall-hung basins and loos keep the floor clear and make a bathroom feel bigger, but you will need to make sure that the wall can take the weight.
▶ Only go for a glass basin if you are happy with the amount of cleaning involved.
▶ Choose a basin that is as large as space permits, deep enough to bend over easily when washing your face, and wide enough to accommodate wet elbows.
Sink units with drawers underneath are another good storage solution.
Mirror-fronted bathroom cabinets combine two useful functions in one.
With some thoughtful finishing touches and a few gorgeous accessories, even the most basic of bathrooms can be transformed into a stylish sanctuary.
TIP-TOP TAPS
Change the taps (a quick and easy job for any plumber) and an old basin will take on a whole new look. In the same vein, it’s also easy enough to replace the handset on many showers.
SITTING PRETTY
Put a new seat on your loo. A simple white style will freshen up the overall look, while a wooden one has a natural, homely effect. Or you could opt for a funky, modern seat featuring bold colours and patterns – anything from a Union Jack to fish, glitter or barbed wire.
SHOWER POWER
Swap a mouldy old shower curtain for a fresh new one – or even replace it with a glamorous glass screen.
TILE STYLE
Changing small areas of tiling need not be too arduous – eye-catching mosaic is ideal, or else a sleek glass panel in a dramatic colour.
MIRROR, MIRROR
A new mirror is great for increasing the sense of light and space, and vital for all sorts of bathroom activities. It can also become a decorative feature in its own right.
A new window treatment makes a world of difference. Blinds are costeffective and can be co-ordinated with your overall scheme, while window film is fun, inexpensive and easy to apply.
SORT YOUR STORAGE
Co-ordinate all your small storage items, from wicker baskets to crackle-glazed pots or bright plastic tubs; it’s all about setting the scene with colour, pattern and texture.
ART ON THE WALL
Add beautifully framed paintings or photographs (though perhaps not in very humid areas) to add character and interest.
HOTEL-STYLE LUXURY
Buy a new set of co-ordinating towels – the larger and fluffier the better. It’s an inexpensive change that will make you feel like a star.
▶ No-frills white bathroom fittings are much cheaper than designer ones – use tiles, taps and accessories to create an elegant and upmarket effect. But remember that not all whites are quite the same shade. It can be tricky to match them if you are buying from a variety of online retailers.
▶ Plan your new bathroom carefully so as to avoid moving existing plumbing – and keep installation costs down.
▶ A radiator that doubles up as a towel rail will save you buying the two items separately.
▶ Save on tiling by only going up to half-height around the room, or else just tile the splashbacks next to the bath and basin. Use paint elsewhere.
Feature walls aren’t just for bedrooms and living rooms – try one in your bathroom, too, with some stunning, colourful tiles.
Wall displays can also be highly effective in a bathroom – they provide a focal point and can complement your design scheme.
These wall-hung sinks exhibit all the features of a high-end basin: clean, straight lines, a good weight and a quality finish.
Roll-top baths are statement pieces, but remember that they are unlikely to work in small spaces.
What’s the difference between four walls and a roof, and a place that is welcoming, nurturing and an all-round great place to be? Well, the former is a house and the latter is a home.
A house may look really smart, but a home is where you kick off your shoes, cook up a storm, cuddle the kids, make a mess, laugh, cry and generally live your life. So, while there are plenty of decorating guidelines to help you put together a picture-perfect house, remember that, in creating a home, you should do what suits you best. If you can create a comfortable space for family and friends who fill the house with fun and laughter, you have that wonderful thing: a happy home.
In a truly comfortable home, every room is as relaxing and welcoming as it is stylish. It looks right but, just as importantly, it feels right in every way. It could be big or small, period or modern, filled with antique treasures or highstreet buys; it could be a single person’s pad or a bustling family house – the key is that you love it, and that you love being in it. In winter, a comfortable home is warm and cosy; in summer, it is light, bright and airy. And the secret to all this? It’s decorating with your senses: sight, touch and, yes, even smell and sound. Colours, patterns, shapes, styles and textures appeal to these first two senses, while the materials you choose (especially for flooring and worktops) will determine whether your home is filled with noises that are loud or soft, tinny or tinkling, high or low.
The art and accessories you choose echo your personal sense of style.
Smells can be generated by creative cooking in a fabulous kitchen, deliciously scented candles or gently fragranced laundry, or something more sinister such as blocked drains or a mouldy cupboard. The way in which you design your home can influence all of these things for good or bad. It may not be obvious, but it is important. With this in mind, your decorative efforts will come together as a gorgeous, holistic whole – and all year round you will have a blissful home that has heart and soul, is calm and energising, refreshes your senses and is a joy to live in.
Small touches can make a big difference: the lavender in the back of this chair not only looks attractive, it fragrances the room, too.
Fun and informal, colourful beanbags are ideal for a family home.
When choosing ironmongery and other finishing touches that will be on show, think about which type suits your home; these details all contribute to the overall look.
Details count not only in terms of style but also practicality – convenience, ease of use, smooth working over time and with low maintenance. Decent handles, doorknobs, window fittings and light switches can be surprisingly costly; it’s worth investing in goodquality designs as it will make a difference. Apart from the huge DIY stores, there are some amazing specialist shops. It is worth visiting some to help you decide exactly what you want before the builder or electrician turns up with their own supply of fittings.
An element of consistency is important, particularly in a small space. Ideally, stick to the same type of detail in the same material in every area of your home. For example, if you have brushed metal door handles in the living areas, you should have the same in the bedroom.
DOOR FURNITURE
With such a wealth of products available it’s not always easy to decide on the right hardware for your front door and internal doors. Take your lead from the age, style and character of your home. Broadly speaking, there are three main categories: contemporary, classic and traditional. If you live in a modern house or flat then it makes sense to go for a contemporary style, such as stainless steel handles on internal doors. A country house looks best with simple wrought-iron fittings on both the front door and internal doors. For a period-style home, choose more elaborate traditional or classic fittings. On a Victorian panelled door you could go for classic, plain white china doorknobs.
Antique hardware, and sometimes even matching sets, can be found in antique, architectural-salvage companies or second-hand shops. Otherwise there is vast range of excellent reproduction hardware to choose from.
WINDOW FURNITURE
Appropriate hardware is important for the security and smooth operation of windows. As with door furniture, the type you choose will depend on the style of your house. Brass, chrome, nickel and antique black are just some of the finishes available. Aim for consistency throughout the home, although you could differentiate between downstairs and upstairs.
LIGHT SWITCHES AND SOCKETS
Electrical fittings are another range of details that count. They have to meet British Standards – a minimum quality for the materials used as well as a minimum requirement for performance and insulation. Make sure all your fittings conform to these standards and then choose the style. There are lots of finishes to choose from, including standard white plastic, brass, brushed steel, chrome, wood and antique copper. You can buy clear Perspex switches and switches that match the colour of your room. However, light switches do not have to be a feature, the most important thing is that they should blend into the wall.
From the softest cashmere to the hardest-wearing denim, you can create your own, individual look and style with irresistible soft furnishings.
Patterned, textured or plain, subtle or spectacular, fabrics can transform a room. But picking the right fabric for covering a sofa or making a blind can be a tricky business. While budget, personal taste and the overall decoration of the room are key factors, they’re not the only considerations. From a practical point of view, it is important to match the fabric to the intended project. So, before you start, make sure you know your silks from your synthetics and your cottons from your corduroys.
HOW TO CHOOSE FABRIC
▶ Always ask for a swatch or, even better, borrow or buy a length of fabric so you can see how it will look in situ.
▶ Wider fabric is often better value. Less sewing may be required, too.
▶ Heavier fabrics are usually too bulky for small projects; lighter fabrics tend to wear more quickly.
▶ Check how the fabric is categorised: for light, general or heavy domestic use. And look for ‘rub test’ figures – 16,000 or above is suitable for general domestic use.
▶ Is it washable, and at what temperature? Will it shrink?
▶ Large patterns require more fabric so that you can match the repeats, and can end up being much more expensive than plains or small patterns.
HOW ARE FABRICS MADE?
Fabrics are composed of natural or synthetic fibres, or blends of them. They can be plain or woven with a pattern. Printing is done by machine or by hand, or digitally using computer technology (which allows small, personalised runs). Most fabrics are available in a variety of weights.
Bouclé has a looped pile.
Corduroy features pile in stripes.
Damasks contrast matt and shiny areas of pattern; usually rather traditional.
Jacquards feature a complex, raised pattern.
Moiré has a watermark pattern; often on silks.
Satin is heavy with a lustrous surface, usually in silk or polyester.
Twill weave produces diagonal or zigzag lines on the surface.
Velvet may be made from a variety of fibres, and features a luxurious, soft pile.
FIBRES
▶ Cotton: Ranging from lightweight muslin to heavy canvas, cotton dyes and prints well, and is easy to care for.
▶ Linen: It has a lovely drape and lustre, but linen creases easily (so is often mixed with other fibres).
▶ Nylon, or polyamide: Man-made fibres are tough and resist abrasion, but tend to produce static electricity.
▶ Polyester: This is a very strong synthetic fibre that mixes well with other fibres. It can be washed frequently and on high temperatures.
▶ Silk: It comes in intense colours and has an attractive, lustrous surface, but silk is delicate.
▶ Viscose: Made from wood pulp, viscose is hardwearing and durable.
▶ Wool: Breathable, warm and naturally water-resistant, wool varies from heavy sheep’s wool to fine cashmere. It will shrink and felt if washed and spun at too high a temperature.
▶ Oilcloth: This is cotton that has been coated with a PVC resin or acrylic to make it waterproof. Although durable and wipeable, it can stain and isn’t heatresistant.
Choose fabrics wisely and you will get the best from them. For covering sofas and chairs, there’s an endless choice of colours, patterns and textures, but practicality is important, too.
Hardwearing, tightly woven fabrics are the best choice for most upholstered furniture, though in some cases (a seldom-used bedroom chair, for example) a more decorative fabric, such as silk, is fine. Medium- to heavy-weight cottons and cotton mixes, linen mixes and wools are all good choices, while corduroy, denim and low-pile velvet have appealing textures and should be long-lasting. Avoid deep piles, which may become crushed, and loose or loopy weaves, which are likely to catch and snag.
Upholstering with plains is pretty straightforward, but make sure that any nap runs in the same direction when all the pieces are made up. Stripes should run straight and be aligned and, if you choose a bold pattern, you will need to centre the motifs on sofa or chair backs, seats and cushions (this can mean buying a lot of fabric). For new and replacement upholstery and loose covers, whatever fabric you choose should usually be fireretardant, though it is sometimes possible to use a non-fire-retardant fabric over a fire-retardant interlining – always check with the manufacturer or retailer.
Fresh upholstery makes a radical difference to old furniture.
It is relatively easy to make a new cover for a beanbag, or to re-cover a seat, box lid or stool.
A great way to give a new lease of life to any fabric-covered furniture, from a sofa to a dining chair, loose covers can also be used to alter a piece’s proportions and even its overall character. Style-wise, they can be sleek and chic, casually unstructured or frilly and flouncy – depending on how they are cut and whether they are designed with a zip or ties, pleats or gathers, piping or a valance. Pick a fabric that is washable, and substantial enough to hold its shape yet soft enough to be comfortable; medium-weight cottons, linens or blends, or light wools, are all ideal.
Take the seat out of the chair frame and carefully remove the old covering. Lay the seat onto your fabric, positioning it carefully so that any pattern is centred or aligned. Draw about 10cm (4in) around the seat and cut the fabric out, then use a staple gun to attach it – quite taut but not overly stretched – first at the centre of each side, then at the corners, and then in-between. Make sure the fabric is even and the corners are neat. Drop the seat back into the frame and re-attach. To re-cover the padded lid of a box, remove its hinges and treat as a chair seat. Screw the hinges back on and re-attach. Give a bean bag a new lease of life with a replacement cover. Remove the old cover (leaving the filling in the liner) and take it apart, then use it as a template to cut out your new fabric. Stitch together securely, adding a zip, hook-and-loop tape or other form of fastening.
Both practical and beautiful, accessories create a unique sense of personal style. Use them in every room of your home.
CUSHIONS
A new cushion will instantly brighten up a boring sofa or chair and add visual interest to a room – use the colour and pattern either to pull a scheme together or create a dynamic contrast. It’s easy to make your own cushion cover – or, if sewing’s not your thing, inexpensive to have them made for you. You can use almost any fabric, within reason and, as you will only need a small amount, you can go for something quite luxurious – a square metre should make four average-sized cushion fronts, then you can use cheaper fabric for the back. Alternatively, try pieces of vintage fabric for an eclectic look, and have fun with different shapes, sizes, trims and fastenings.
TABLE LINEN
For tablecloths, runners and napkins, light- to mediumweight cottons, linens and cotton or linen blends are best. Damasks are a traditional choice, and a handembroidered tablecloth can look very pretty. But above all, if you are going to use them every day, choose fabrics that will withstand frequent washing, reserving the delicates for special occasions. For the last word in ease of cleaning, your best bet is oilcloth, a plastic-coated cloth that simply wipes down with a damp cloth and comes in a massive range of gorgeous colours and patterns.
THROWS AND BEDSPREADS
If you want to transform a bedroom in an instant, simply make up the bed in plain white linens and cover it with a stunning bedspread. Change the cover whenever you wish for an instant injection of colour and pattern – eiderdowns, quilts, blankets and throws are just as versatile, of course. The same applies to your sofa: tuck a throw, blanket or other length of fabric neatly over it – back, seat, arms or all over – for a fresh (and inexpensive) new look.
Quality bed linen will not only feel more comfortable, but will wash well and last for years.
▶ Cotton: Hardwearing, easy to clean and breathable, cotton is a popular choice, and pure Egyptian cotton is considered the finest. Styles include percale, satin, sateen, waffle, jacquard, flannel, jersey and corduroy.
▶ Artificial fibres: Fibres like viscose and rayon are soft, durable and absorbent, but may shrink when washed.
▶ Synthetics: Polyester, acrylic and nylon are great for resisting creases, but can make you uncomfortably hot.
▶ Blends: These include polycotton, and can offer an ideal combination of the qualities of two or more fibres.
▶ Linen: Breathable with a cool, crisp touch, linen gets softer as it gets older – but it does need a lot of ironing.
▶ Silk: Also highly breathable, silk will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer; it’s even said to reduce wrinkles and make your hair glossy. It needs gentle handling.
Make the most of your prized possessions by creating beautiful, eye-catching displays.
DISPLAYS ON WALLS
A wall is the ideal blank canvas for a display of almost any type. Paintings, collages, drawings, photographs and other flat works of art are the obvious choice – there are so many possibilities that it’s easy to cater for any taste and style of interior. Surprisingly, single pictures can be the hardest to hang. Look for convenient alcoves or small walls, as they tend to get lost on their own on a large wall. Pairs of pictures often make more visual sense, while a group of four (two-up, two-down) is smart and sassy.
But why stop at pictures? Textile wall hangings create just as impressive an effect, whether they be gorgeous silk robes, wool tapestries, woven rugs or a good-looking scarf, shawl or banner. And for a really bold display, you can’t beat a wall-mounted three-dimensional object. Something as simple as a line of vintage plates can be really decorative, while hanging up your collection of baskets, handbags, shoe lasts, hats, toy cars and so on is a great way to store them and show them off at the same time.
HOW TO ARRANGE A GROUP OF PICTURES
Pictures that are all the same size and identically framed look amazing hung in regular rows. But it’s harder to hang less co-ordinated pictures. A good method is to lay them out on the floor, with the largest picture near the centre, then stand on a chair to look down and get a sense of how the grouping works. Rearrange as necessary, taking out any pictures that jar. You may also find that some need reframing to work in the group. Avoid hanging pictures in ascending or descending sizes.
These framed maps displayed as a group of four make a smart and effective display.
A mount, cut at an angle to lead the eye into the picture, looks professional and can bring out key colours (though if in doubt, choose off-white). As for frames, choose a style that is in proportion to your picture and complements it without dominating. In general, black, white and silver frames work well with monochrome or muted pictures, and pale frames work best with pale pictures. Dark frames can enhance brightly coloured artwork.
The simplest, most obvious and often most effective way to create a display is by placing objects on a shelf, table, mantelpiece or windowsill, in an alcove or within a cabinet, niche or cubbyhole. Poised and deliberate or delightfully informal, these displays are versatile, space-saving and usually easy to arrange.
What are your options? Well, almost anything can be displayed in this way, from cut-glass perfume bottles to books to pebbles from the beach. Fragile or valuable items are best kept up high or behind glazed doors, of course, and you should avoid putting objects where they will simply become an obstruction (interfering with a blind or taking up space on a coffee table, for example). Consider where they will be in relation to eye level, and ensure that the most interesting features of your display will definitely be visible. Beyond that, enjoy arranging and re-arranging your objects until they suit your style and enhance your space.
Grouping items in different ways on shelves adds variety to a display.
Colourful displays can add interest to simple kitchen schemes.
THE ART OF DISPLAY
▶ Small objects need to be ‘framed’ in their surroundings or they will get lost. Large objects can dominate, and need space to breathe. Ensure your displays are proportionate to the space they’re in.
▶ Try placing a mirror behind a three-dimensional object on a shelf, so you can see its back, too.
▶ Pairs of items are visually very strong. Place them evenly and symmetrically for maximum impact.
▶ When displaying groups, an uneven number of items is usually more visually appealing.
▶ What shape does your display make? Stand back, squint, and try to see an overall outline, rather than lots of individual objects.
▶ Link groups of objects in a display by shape, size, colour and/or texture. Otherwise they can look incoherent.
▶ Striking ways to display objects include under Victorian glass domes, in printers’ trays, test tubes or flower pots, hung from pegs or over a small ladder, up stairs or thrown over a bust or mannequin. Get creative and express yourself.
▶ Lighting will always enhance a display, whether it’s natural light falling through a window, a specially fitted spotlight or a table lamp placed nearby.
Displaying objects in glass domes is a way to unify groups of very different items.
When the structural work is done, your walls are finished, your floors are down and the major pieces of furniture are in the right place, it’s time to add the details that show off your personality and flair.
Thoughtful final touches add an extra decorative element that really demonstrates who you are. What’s more, they are not terribly expensive and can be changed quickly and easily – perhaps with the seasons, or just when you feel like a new look. A few bits and pieces will do the trick. A throw over the arm of a sofa or the back of an armchair is wonderfully appealing, for example, and brings character to even the most boring piece of upholstery. A scattering of cushions – be they square, round, rectangular, bolster-shaped, and featuring piping, buttons or pom-pom trims – has the same effect. A group of vases on a shelf; a row of candles on a mantelpiece; a wicker basket or a coloured plastic tub; a characterful lamp, a carved wooden bowl, a ceramic pot, a pretty mirror – it’s not hard to see how all sorts of gorgeous accessories, thoughtfully put together, can be the making of a most attractive and interesting room.
Clean, white surfaces can be embellished without clutter using glassware and tall, delicate plants.
Turning unloved items of furniture into gorgeous objects of desire is not as challenging as it might sound.
A coat of paint or a new cover will transform many an ugly duckling, and you can even paste wallpaper (or other attractive paper, such as old maps or sheet music) onto the flat panels of furniture to co-ordinate with your new paint job. Alternatively, use mirror or mosaic tiles to cover a boring surface – such as a clean-lined, pine side table. Another simple trick is to change old knobs or handles. Just unscrew the old ones, fill holes as necessary, and attach your lovely new ones.
If you can use a pair of scissors you can cut out and use a piece of sticky-back plastic (now available in plenty of highly desirable patterns) to line a dull chest or wardrobe. The result is not only a smooth, clean surface for your clothes, but also a jolt of visual appeal every time you open the door or drawer. And if you can handle a saw, drill and screwdriver there are all sorts of possibilities, from apple-crate shelving to wheeled-pallet coffee tables. It’s all about ingenuity and the willingness to have a go.
One last word: leave anything rare, valuable or antique to the experts and, even then, it’s best to stick to essential repairs only.
