Malaysian Spicy Pan Mee Noodles

Serves 4

IN MALAYSIA, pan mee noodles are consumed throughout the day—at any meal or even as a snack—which is a good indication of just how cherished this spicy dish is. Pan mee literally means “flat flour noodles,” and they are offered fried with sauces and condiments or in soup form.

This very spicy version is from Café D’Lite, an unassuming little family-run eatery that’s been around for 20 years. Chef Lee’s wholesome cooking is reminiscent of a mother’s home cooking, but the plates are nicely presented. Definitely cheap and cheerful, Café D’Lite is famous for its Hainanese Chicken Rice (page 170) and its dessert soups. The restaurant also sells its own sauces in jars.

Look for packaged fresh flat flour noodles in the cooler aisle of Asian supermarkets and Chinese noodle shops.

1 lb ground pork

1½ tsp salt

2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

3 tsp light soy sauce

1 tsp cornstarch

2 to 3 Tbsp dried chili flakes, rinsed, soaked and drained

1 to 2 red hot chili peppers, or to taste

4 shallots, chopped

1 cup + 8 tsp vegetable oil

1 lb fresh flat flour noodles (or Shanghai noodles or fettuccine)

2 tsp oyster sauce

4 Tbsp dried anchovies

¼ tsp white sugar

1 large egg

4 green onions, white and green parts, chopped

IN A LARGE bowl, combine pork with ½ tsp of the salt, 1 tsp of the black pepper, 1 tsp of the soy sauce and cornstarch until well mixed. Set aside.

In a food processor, combine dried and fresh chili peppers, half of the shallots, ½ tsp of the salt, ½ tsp of the black pepper and 3 tsp of the vegetable oil. Pulse for 20 to 30 seconds.

In a wok, heat 1 cup vegetable oil on medium-low. Add the chili mixture and fry for about 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the heat, drain the oil into an airtight container and transfer the chili mixture into a bowl to use as a condiment. (The chili oil will keep, refrigerated, for up to 4 weeks.)

In a large pot, boil 10 cups water. Add noodles, cover and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until water boils again. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and set aside for 5 to 7 minutes. Drain the noodles, then transfer to a large serving platter.

In the wok, heat 2 tsp of the vegetable oil on high. Add the remaining shallots and sauté for 20 seconds. Stir in ground pork and stir-fry for 4 to 6 minutes, or until cooked. Pour in the remaining 2 tsp soy sauce, oyster sauce and ½ cup water, stir and cook for 2 minutes. Season with the remaining ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper, then pour the pork mixture over the noodles.

To the wok, add the remaining 3 tsp vegetable oil and heat on high. Add anchovies and fry for 60 seconds until golden. Stir in sugar and add to the platter.

In a small saucepan, boil 1 cup water on high. Crack egg into the water, turn off the heat, cover and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the egg and add it to the platter. Garnish with 1 tsp of the chili mixture and green onions. Serve immediately.