Poke to Play Around With

Makes 4 servings

I’m absolutely positive that this poke (pronounced “poke-ay,” meaning literally “to cut or slice” in Hawaiian) is not traditional in Hawaii, the dish’s homeland, but I’m not ready to call it inauthentic. Poke, like ceviche, has been riffed on by so many that the only real imperative is that it be extremely tasty.

At its most simple, poke is usually chunks of raw tuna briefly marinated with soy and sesame oil. It’s not a fancy dish — more like a snack you’d eat when you’re wearing flip-flops — and it’s not a dish with rigorous rules. These days, though, the tuna might be replaced by another type of seafood, tofu or vegetables; the marinade might include just about every spice and hot sauce from around the globe; and the add-ins might be salad greens, onions, avocados, mangoes, tomatoes or whatever else is good with fish and bold seasoning.

I’m so crazy about this sweet-salty-hot marinade that I also use it as a dressing for coleslaw, kale and apple salad, beets (I love beet poke) and raw cauliflower. And because it and the fish are versatile, I have fun choosing the add-ins. When summer’s the season and the heat and humidity are high, you can’t beat poke with very cold watermelon.

I know you’re going to have fun with this recipe. Actually, the only “recipe” is for the marinade — the rest is up to you.

• For the marinade
• 2 tablespoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce) or other soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
• 1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
• ¾ to 1½ teaspoons Sriracha (to taste)
• ½ teaspoon oyster sauce
• ½ teaspoon unseasoned rice vinegar
• 1 pound (454 grams) very cold thick-cut sushi-grade tuna or salmon
• Add-ins to pick and choose from
• 1 teaspoon sesame seeds, white and/or black
• Sliced jalapeños or serrano chiles
• Diced bell pepper
• Sliced scallions
• Chopped onions (rinsed in cold water and patted dry)
• Slivered garlic
• Halved cherry tomatoes
• Cubed mango
• Cashews, macadamias or peanuts
• Broken nori (briefly pan-toasted, or not)
• Go-alongs to pick and choose from
• Strong salad greens, like mizuna, kale or arugula
• Coleslaw
• Roasted beet cubes
• Cold watermelon cubes

Working Ahead

You can make the marinade up to 3 days ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator. You can also marinate the tuna or salmon for as long as 3 hours.

To make the marinade: Put all the ingredients in a jar, cover and shake well to blend. (The marinade can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

To marinate the fish: Cut the tuna or salmon into bite-sized cubes and toss them into a bowl. Pour the marinade over, stir to coat the fish, cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or for up to 3 hours, stirring occasionally.

If you’re using the sesame seeds or any of the add-ins, stir them into the poke just before serving. If you’re using one of the go-alongs, place on a plate and top with the poke, or mix everything together.

 

Storing: You can marinate the tuna or salmon for longer than 3 hours, but its texture will soften. Once the poke is on the table, it’s best to polish it off, since it won’t really keep after that.