Makes 6 servings
Squash is the Zelig of the vegetable world. Zelig, a character in the Woody Allen film of the same name, is a chameleon who fits into any situation, a guy whose personality turns with every wardrobe change. We don’t know if Zelig has his own personality, and I’ve got similar doubts about squash, doubts that make me love it. What cook doesn’t love an ingredient with variable texture and the uncanny ability to welcome disparate flavor combos?
For this soup, I give the squash every opportunity to take on layers of flavor. It’s brushed with a mix of oil, soy, maple syrup and spices and roasted, along with carrots, onion and garlic. Then it’s simmered in broth with ginger and star anise, pureed and accented with vinegar. You might not be able to pinpoint the flavors in the soup, and it’s not likely you’ll be able to say that it comes from a particular region or country. Instead you’ll just think that, like Zelig, it belongs wherever you are.
Both the vegetables and seasonings are on the sweet side, so I like to finish the soup with a splash of cider vinegar. As vinegars go, apple cider vinegar is not too strong, but it’s got enough acidity to tip the soup’s balance. I also often drizzle a little cream over the soup. You could think about adding a spoonful of minced fresh herbs. You can also float a few croutons or toasted pumpkin seeds in it — crunch is never a bad idea.
Working Ahead
The soup can be made up to 4 days ahead and refrigerated in a tightly covered container, or frozen for 2 months.
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet or roasting pan with foil.
Working in a large bowl, whisk together the oil, maple syrup, soy, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, the cinnamon and cayenne.
Trim the ends of the squash, then cut it in half from top to bottom. Scoop out and discard the seeds and strings (or clean and roast the seeds, if you’d like). Put the squash cut side down on the cutting board and cut each piece into half-moons about 2 inches thick (keep the skin on). Toss the pieces into the bowl with the oil mixture.
Cut the onion into 8 wedges. Cut the carrots in half the long way and then cut each half into 3 chunks. Toss the onion, carrots and garlic into the bowl, turning all the vegetables around until they’re coated.
Scoop the vegetables onto the baking sheet and spread them out, putting the halved garlic head cut side down. Pour over any remaining liquid. Roast the vegetables for 30 to 45 minutes (it’s hard to give an exact time here), or until they are fragrant, have some color and, most important, can be easily pierced with a small knife. (If any of the vegetables are done earlier than the others, pull them out.)
As soon as the vegetables are cool enough to handle, scrape the squash out of the skin and put it in a Dutch oven or large saucepan. Squeeze the garlic cloves out of their skins and add to the pot. Spoon the onion and carrots into the pot, along with any juices.
Pour the broth into the pot, add the ginger and star anise and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, partially cover and simmer for 30 minutes; add more salt and pepper, if you’d like. Remove the star anise from the soup. Using a blender (stand or handheld) or food processor, puree the soup, in batches if necessary, until it’s very smooth. (You can make the soup ahead and refrigerate it, once cooled, in a tightly covered container for up to 4 days; reheat before serving.)
Ladle out the soup and drizzle 1 to 2 teaspoons cider vinegar over each portion. If you’d like, drizzle over some heavy cream too.