Makes 6 to 8 servings
If you’ve never made stuffed cabbage, I urge you to stop everything and do it now. Earthy and rustic, stuffed cabbage is beloved in many cultures, revered in Europe and known to cause arguments among cooks who are convinced that their recipe is superior to all others. My version, which mixes beef, pork, rice and my mother-in-law’s long-secret addition, ketchup, is idiosyncratic but one I’d argue for. Passionately. I make my stuffed cabbage in bundles, the way I had it when I was growing up. It’s a nod to childhood memories, but I do it this way partly because I enjoy the arts-and-crafts nature of the project. That it makes the dish easier to serve and more attractive is a bonus. For me, the sauce, both pungent and a little sweet, is the prize: It’s built on tomatoes, sweetened with apple juice and spiked with vinegar. The cabbage packets are layered between the sauce and a cushion of grated apples, shredded onions and cabbage and braised for 3 hours — the aromas draw everyone into the kitchen.
Working Ahead
I like to make this a day ahead if I can. An overnight in the fridge gives you the chance to easily spoon off and discard any fat, and it gives all the flavors a chance to deepen.
To make the cabbage ROLLS: Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Meanwhile, pull off and discard any tough outer leaves from the cabbage. Turn the cabbage upside down and, working carefully with a heavy knife, cut out the core. I usually have to do this in increments — cutting out a divot and then going back in to cut away more. Pull off the outer 18 or so leaves (the largest on the head). Drop a couple of leaves at a time into the boiling water and leave them there for a minute or two, just until they’re softened. Shake off the excess water as you remove the leaves from the pot and then pat them dry.
Working with one leaf at a time, spread it out on a cutting board, with the outer part — the side where the thick center rib sticks up — facing up. Using a paring knife or a strong vegetable peeler, cut or shave down the thick rib so that it’s (kind of) even with the leaf and, most important, flexible — don’t worry about being precise. Set the trimmed leaves aside; they’re the ones you’ll stuff. Thinly slice the remaining cabbage — think thick-cut coleslaw — and set aside for the sauce.
Put the ground chuck and sausage in a bowl, add all the remaining ingredients and mix together as though you were making meatballs — be thorough, but try not to knead or work the stuffing too much.
To construct the bundles, lay a cabbage leaf inner (cup) side up on a work surface. Shape about ¼ cup of the stuffing into a little log. Place the log horizontally across the cabbage, keeping it within the bottom third of the leaf, and lift the bottom of the leaf up and against the meat — or over it, if you have enough leaf. Fold the two sides over the log and then start rolling the log up in the leaf until you get to the top. (Imagine that you’re making a burrito and the cabbage leaf is the tortilla.) Make the roll as compact as you can and secure the seam with a toothpick. Repeat with the remaining leaves and stuffing.
To make the sauce and cook the bundles: Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees F.
Open the cans of tomatoes and, using kitchen scissors and working in the cans, snip the tomatoes into small pieces (alternatively, you can break them up with your hands). Pour the tomatoes and juice into a large bowl and stir in the apple juice, brown sugar, vinegar, salt and cayenne. In another bowl, toss together the sliced onion, grated apple and reserved sliced cabbage.
Pour one third of the sauce into a large Dutch oven or a large ovenproof sauté pan with a lid. Cover with half of the apple mixture and top with half of the cabbage bundles. Repeat with half of the remaining apple mixture and the rest of the cabbage bundles. Finish with a layer of the remaining sauce and apple mixture. Cover with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit snugly inside the pot and against the ingredients (or seal the top of the pot with aluminum foil). Cover with the lid and slide the pot into the oven.
Let the stuffed cabbage cook undisturbed for 3 hours. Taste the sauce, which will be thin, and add more sugar, vinegar, salt or cayenne if you think it needs it. Then test a cabbage bundle to make certain that the rice is tender. If it isn’t — unlikely, but . . . return the pot to the oven until it is.
The stuffed cabbage can be served now or cooled, refrigerated and reheated when you’re ready — I think the flavors get even better after an overnight rest.
Storing: You can keep leftover cabbage bundles and sauce in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. The stuffed cabbage can be frozen for up to 2 months packed in an airtight container. If frozen, gently thaw before reheating in a covered pot.