A Glossary of Specialized Ingredients and Some Substitutions
The majority of the ingredients I use regularly are available in supermarkets. A very few are a bit more exotic, but they can be ordered online. If you can’t find an ingredient locally, here are some good sources:
Amazon, amazon.com
Kalustyan’s, kalustyans.com, foodsofnations.com
Penzeys spices, penzeys.com
The Spice House, thespicehouse.com
ALEPPO PEPPER: Red pepper flakes that are moderately hot and a tad fruity. I have seen the pepper — a native of Syria and Turkey — sold ground, but I prefer the flakes, which are sometimes a bit chewy. Kalustyan’s, Penzey’s and Spice House are good sources for this. Cayenne or crushed red pepper flakes are substitutes.
Asian Sesame Oil: This roasted — or toasted — oil is found in the Asian section of most markets. Its flavor is full and forthright — use it sparingly. While it can be heated, it shines when it’s added to a dish at the last minute — that’s when you get the best of the oil’s fragrance.
Bouillon Base: A paste that can be diluted in hot water to make a broth, bouillon base is particularly convenient when you need only a small amount of broth or want to quickly flavor a soup or stew. Bases, which come in chicken, beef, vegetable, fish and seafood, are concentrated — a teaspoon will make a cup of broth — and serve the same purpose as bouillon cubes. The most popular brand is Better Than Bouillon, but there are others — taste and decide which you like most.
Bulgogi Sauce: This Korean barbecue sauce (there’s also a Korean dish with the same name) is a little sweet but mostly tangy and spicy. Its predominant ingredients are soy sauce, sesame, ginger and a fruit puree (either apple or pear). Bulgogi sauce can be used in marinades, and I like a little of it on a bun for a burger.
Chipotles in Adobo Sauce: Chipotles are smoked dried jalapeño peppers. Sold in cans in the Latin American/Mexican food section of supermarkets, the peppers are packed in a thick rust-colored sauce called adobo. You can use both the peppers and sauce, separately or together, but always sparingly — they’re hot!
Furikake: A Japanese seasoning mix, often sprinkled over rice, furikake can flavor soups, vegetables and fish. There are many different kinds, but the most popular have sesame seeds, dried seaweed and spices, often including chiles. Furikake is sold in jars with shaker tops.
Garam Masala: An Indian spice blend, garam masala does not have a precise recipe. It can vary from region to region, household to household and merchant to merchant. The blend is fragrant and tilts toward the sweet side, with cinnamon an important ingredient. It usually also includes cardamom and nutmeg, as well as more savory spices like cumin, coriander and bay. In addition to online sources, both Simply Organic and McCormick market garam masala.
Gochujang: Sometimes called Korean ketchup or Korean miso, gochujang is a fermented sauce and therefore its flavor is complex. It can be just the least bit sweet, but you’ll know it by its heat. Made of fermented soybeans, red chiles and glutinous rice, it’s a terrific ingredient to add to marinades, beef stews and even mayonnaise. The most popular and most widely available brand is Annie Chun’s — you can find it in some large supermarkets or online. As with many blended condiments and spices, brands differ, so if you find you like gochujang, you might want to taste a few different ones. There really isn’t a substitute for it, but if you don’t have it, try making a paste of crushed red pepper flakes, soy sauce and a small amount of sugar.
Harissa: A ferociously hot North African spice blend, harissa can be bought as a ground spice mix or as a paste in tubes, cans and jars. Chiles, primarily red ones, are the most important and abundant ingredient, but they’re blended with garlic and other spices (like cumin and coriander) and, in the case of the pastes, oil. If you buy harissa powder, you can mix it with oil or water to make a paste. Harissa powders and pastes vary from brand to brand. I find the most variation in the pastes — some are stronger, some are sweeter. If harissa interests you, search for your favorite. Instead of harissa powder, you can use chile powder. For the paste, substitute your favorite hot sauce, Thai red chili paste or sambal oelek.
Kaffir Lime Leaf: These leaves — thick, tough, shiny on one side and dull on the other — are most often found in Southeast Asian cooking, particularly in Thai dishes, and are used in much the same way that bay leaves are used in European cuisines. The leaves are usually sold dried. The aroma is so particular that there is no substitute.
Kecap Manis: Although it’s sometimes referred to as Indonesian ketchup — it’s the most popular condiment in that country — the sauce bears no resemblance to what we know as ketchup. Its color is dark, almost black; its consistency is thick and syrupy; and its flavor is sweet. A mixture of soy sauce and palm sugar, it can be cooked into dishes or used as a condiment.
Lemon/lime oil: Pure lemon or lime oil is intense and should be used sparingly, the way you would a citrus extract, which makes a fine substitute. The most popular brand (and the one I use) is Boyajian.
Miso, LIGHT (WHITE OR YELLOW) and Red: Made from fermented soybeans, miso is sold as a paste in tubs and jars. Stored in the refrigerator, it seems to keep forever. Its flavor is salty and savory, and it’s one of the foods that defines the “fifth flavor,” umami.
Piment d’Espelette: Espelette is a village in the Basque region of France famous for its red chile peppers — after harvest, almost every house in the area hangs peppers out to dry in the sun. Once dried, the peppers are finely ground. Cayenne is a good substitute.
Pomegranate molasses: Although pomegranate molasses is made by boiling pomegranate juice and sugar down to a syrup, it is more sour than sweet. Popular in Middle Eastern dishes, it is good in glazes and sauces for vegetables and poultry. You can find it in most supermarkets.
Ponzu Sauce (sometimes labeled ponzu soy sauce or yuzu soy sauce): This Japanese sauce has a sharp tang that comes from a mixture of vinegar and citrus. Traditional ponzu includes yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit that resembles lemons; today many sauces use other citrus. The soy blends are so full of flavor they can be used on their own as marinades, salad dressings or dipping sauces. Popular brands include Kikkoman, Eden, Marukan and Mitsukan. Ponzu is available in many supermarkets.
Ras el Hanout: This North African spice blend is most closely associated with Morocco. The name means “head of the shop,” implying that the spices come from the vendor’s best selection. There is no fixed recipe for ras el hanout — each merchant blends his own — but you can usually count on there being cardamom, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric and nutmeg, and often many other ingredients, including rosebuds. The blend is always warm and just a little sweet. If you can’t find ras el hanout, opt for garam masala (not the same, but similar in spirit). Ras el hanout is available from spice purveyors and can even be found in some supermarkets under the McCormick label.
Rice Vinegar: Milder than most vinegars, rice vinegar is used to flavor Asian food and also to quick-pickle ingredients like onions and cucumbers. You’ll find it plain and seasoned — the seasoned vinegar is sweetened and, with a splash of oil (olive or sesame), makes a nice dressing for simple salads or steamed vegetables.
Sambal Oelek: A spoonable red chile paste popular in Thai and Malaysian cooking, sambal oelek is thicker than Sriracha, and can be hotter, but it’s made with many of the same ingredients. In a pinch, substitute Sriracha. I sometimes use Chinese chile-garlic paste instead as well.
Sriracha: Slightly sweet, slightly garlicky and certainly spicy, this bright-red chile-spiked sauce is now almost as ubiquitous as ketchup and almost as easy to find. The most popular Sriracha is made by Huy Fong Foods, but other brands provide just as much punch. Sriracha can be used straight, the way you would any other hot sauce, or it can be mixed with other ingredients to season meat and fish.
Sumac: A tangy spice, ground sumac has a flavor reminiscent of lemon. You can find it readily in shops specializing in foods from the Middle East. If you don’t have sumac, substitute freshly grated lemon zest.
Thai Curry Paste, Red or Green: Both red and green Thai curry pastes are made with ginger, galangal, kaffir lime, lemongrass and spices, but the red paste is made with dried chiles and the green with fresh. Both pastes should be used sparingly. Thai Kitchen and Maesri are brands that are widely available.
Thai Sweet CHILI Sauce: The name tells you almost everything you need to know about this popular condiment. Sweeter than it is hot, the orange sauce is thick, pourable and as easy to add to dishes as ketchup. It’s found in supermarkets under popular labels like Thai Kitchen, A Taste of Thai, Kikkoman and even proprietary brands like Trader Joe’s. I use Mae Ploy, found in many specialty markets.
Togarashi: Shichimi togarashi — that’s usually how you’ll see it labeled — is a Japanese blend of seven spices. The primary flavor is peppery, but, depending on the brand and blend, you’ll also taste ginger, orange, sesame and perhaps seaweed. I use S&B brand. It comes in a small shaker tube and may look familiar to you if you eat at ramen or home-style Japanese restaurants — it’s often on the table alongside the soy sauce. Cayenne can be used as a substitute.
Urfa pepper: This Turkish chile pepper is always found dried and crushed into flakes. Even dried, the pepper retains some moisture. Its heat is mild, and it may have the aroma and slightly sweet tang of dried fruit. This chile is optional in many of my recipes; where it’s not, substitutions, such as smoked paprika or crushed red pepper flakes, are suggested.
Yuzu Kosho: A paste made from yuzu, the Japanese lemon-like citrus, and chiles, this comes in both red and green versions (the difference is the type of chiles). Sold in small jars, it is used in very small quantities — it packs a punch. Yuzu kosho is sold in Asian and specialty markets and online. If you can’t find it, substitute Thai curry paste, which is more easily found in supermarkets.
Za’atar: A blend of dried thyme, oregano and marjoram, sometimes mixed with sumac and roasted sesame seeds, za’atar is a popular Middle Eastern seasoning. If you don’t have za’atar, you can substitute ground thyme, oregano or marjoram, or a mix of these herbs, and add sesame seeds or not.