TAOS AND THE ENCHANTED CIRCLE

Taos, Questa, Red River, Angel Fire, Taos Ski Valley, Arroyo Seco

Warning: the beauty and magic of the Taos area may change your life. Taos Mountain is famous for doing that—as well as for bringing out the dreams and creativity you have long yearned to express. The natural splendor of this area had a huge impact on D. H. Lawrence, Millicent Rogers, Georgia O’Keeffe and Mabel Dodge Luhan, to name a few. Aldous Huxley picked up a few ideas here, and Julia Cameron wrote her seminal book, The Artist’s Way in the shadow of Taos Mountain. Add art, history, Native American and Hispanic culture, fine dining, and outdoor activities of hiking, skiing, rafting, and fishing for the sum of a destination with four-season appeal. You are guaranteed to love this region whenever you visit—and may it be soon.

GUIDANCE Angel Fire Convention and Visitors Bureau (575-377-6555; www.angelfirefun.com), 3365 Mountain View Boulevard, Angel Fire.

Eagle Nest Chamber of Commerce (575-377-2420; eaglenestchamber.org), 284 E. Therma Drive, Eagle Nest.

Red River Visitor Center (575-754-1708; www.redriver.org), 220 E. Main, Red River.

Taos Visitor Center (800-348-0696; www.taos.org), 1139 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos.

Village of Taos Ski Valley Chamber of Commerce (800-776-1111; www.taosskivalley.com), 122 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Christus St. Vincent Regional Medical Center (505-946-3233), 455 St. Michaels Drive.

Española Hospital (505-327-0360), 1010 Spruce Street, Española.

Holy Cross Hospital (575-751-5835), 1397 Weimer Road, Taos.

Los Alamos Medical Center (505-662-2932), 3917 West Road, Los Alamos.

Taos Urgent Care (575-758-1414), 330 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos.

Railyard Urgent Care (505-501-7791), 831 St. Francis Drive, Santa Fe.

GETTING THERE From Santa Fe, go north on NM 68. It’s a slow 67 miles to Taos. From Taos, take NM 522 north, about 25 minutes, to Questa and the Enchanted Circle. Also from Taos, take NM 150 to Taos Ski Valley, a half-hour drive.

To See

TOWNS Angel Fire. A town of many second-home condominiums and rentals with a resort at the center, yet also with a small, involved community of year-round citizens. It is a good place to stay and play year-round. It was the fall meeting grounds of the Ute and took its name from the Indian “breath of spirits,” later Christianized by Franciscan friars to “breath of angels.” Hiking, mountain biking, cross-country skiing, snowboarding, tubing, and zip-lining are its leading attractions, in addition to skiing. It is also home to Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park.

Arroyo Seco. This pretty little village on the road to Taos Ski Valley has cafés, shops, and a historic church.

Questa. The drive north of Taos to Questa along NM 522 passes several interesting potential explorations, including the valley of Arroyo Hondo and Lama Mountain, where the Lama Foundation—an ecumenical retreat center founded in the 1960s, still survives. Questa was for many years primarily a mining community where molybdenum, an agent used for hardening steel, reigned, but it is now home to a combination of artists, organic growers, and multigenerational Hispanic families.

Red River. A family resort town created for fun, with a ski area, plenty of lodging, cafés, and shopping that is a pleasant four-season family escape. At 8,750 feet, it is the highest town in the state. Founded in 1892 by homesteaders; prospectors followed suit and found their way to the settlement. The Red River takes its color after rains due to the high mineral content.

Taos. The legendary town of artists and the home of the multi-storied 1,000-year-old Taos Pueblo has a magnetism and mystique like nowhere else. Established in 1615 as a northern outpost of New Spain, it was the site of the annual autumn rendezvous and trade fair of mountain men who hunted and trapped for the beaver trade. The town itself is a historical composite of three parts: Ranchos de Taos on the south, Don Fernando de Taos in the central part of town radiating out from the Plaza, and Taos Pueblo. Eventually, these three sections grew together to form a unit we think of today as Greater Taos. In addition to its arts, Taos is also known as the home of larger-than-life characters such as Kit Carson, Padre Martinez, Mabel Dodge Luhan, and D. H. and Frieda Lawrence. With close to a dozen coffee houses, several outstanding brewpubs and wine tasting rooms, diverse restaurants, film, theater, literary events, and music galore, there’s an outsized cultural life to ensure no one ever gets bored.

PRAYER FLAGS WAVE OVER THE RIO GRANDE GORGE ATOP LAMA MOUNTAIN

Taos Ski Valley. Located in the old mining area of Twinings, TSV is the state’s premier ski resort, internationally known for its challenging runs. Summer activities, such as concerts by Taos School of Music, are scheduled along with winter fun, including snowboarding.

HISTORIC LANDMARKS, PLACES, AND SITES Hacienda de los Martinez (575-758-1000), 708 Hacienda Way, off Lower Ranchitos Road, Taos. Two miles south of the plaza on NM 240 or 4 miles west of Ranchos de Taos on NM 240. Open Mon.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. noon–5; call for winter hours, likely to be closed Wednesdays, and open only until 4 PM. If you want to see what a nineteenth-century hacienda looks like, come here and experience the fortress-like restored building designed to keep out Comanche and Apache raiders. Exhibits explain trade on the Camino Real, and Spanish colonial culture of New Mexico. It is furnished authentically, with demonstrations of quilting, colcha embroidery, weaving, and other traditional crafts. $8 adults, $4 under age 16, under age 5 free.

Kit Carson Cemetery (no phone), Kit Carson Park. History makes strange bedfellows Stroll this historic cemetery in the center of town to find graves of Mabel Dodge Luhan, Padre Martinez, and Kit Carson within a stone’s throw of one another.

Picuris Pueblo (575-587-2519), NM 75 at MM 13, Peñasco. Attractions at this tiny Pueblo on the High Road to Taos include a museum, the ancient Pot Creek Pueblo site, and historic restored church. The Pueblo is known for its golden-flecked mica pottery. The haunting Matachine dances are performed here December 24–25.

Pot Creek Cultural Site (575-587-2519). Nine miles from Taos on NM 518. Open late June–early September. Wed.–Sun. An easy 1-mile trail leads to a reconstructed pueblo that includes a ceremonial kiva. This site was inhabited by the Ancestral Pueblo people between A.D. 1100 and A.D. 1300. Many pots were found here when the Spanish arrived, hence the name. Free.

Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument (www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/fo/taos_field_office.html) is one of the nation’s newest national monuments. In March 2013, President Barack Obama declared these 27 million acres of Rio Grande Rift and Taos Plateau a nationally significant landscape to be preserved permanently. Encompassing several Native American pueblos, rock art, wildlife, native grasslands, geologic features formed over 70 million years, and much more, the area is a haven for hiking, rafting, fishing, hunting, and sightseeing.

MUDDING THE RANCHOS DE TAOS CHURCH IS AN ANNUAL SPRING COMMUNITY EVENT

Rio Grande Gorge Bridge (no phone), at intersection of NM 68 and NM 150 (Taos Ski Valley Road), go left 17 miles on US 64. Completed in 1965, at 650 feet above the Rio Grande, this bridge is the nation’s second-highest span: 2,000 feet from rim to rim across the gorge. The winding Rio Grande below and view of the Taos Plateau is a look into the deep heart of New Mexico. From this height, river rafters on the Taos Box look like tiny specks. Hang on to your hat! The wind always blows hard up here. Free.

San Francisco de Asis Church (“Ranchos Church”) (575-758-2754), Ranchos de Taos. Four miles south of Taos on NM 68. Open Mon.–Sat. 9–4. This building, the most frequently painted and photographed church in the United States, was built sometime between 1776 and 1813. Its massive adobe walls change appearance with the changing light. $3 to see video and Mystery Paintings in Parish Hall.

Taos Pueblo (575-758-1028), 2 miles north of Taos off NM 68. Feast days: September 29–30, San Geronimo. Open Mon.-Sat. 8–4:30. Sun. 8:30–4:30. Closed during private Pueblo events. Pueblo may be closed during February–March and August. Taos was well established long before Europe emerged from the Dark Ages, and the ancestors of today’s people have been in this area for at least 1,000 years. About 150 people live on the Pueblo full-time, and about 2,000 are living on Taos Pueblo lands. This is the only living American Indian community that is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Landmark. The present Pueblo has been occupied since about 1450 AD. To honor the residents’ traditions, there is still no indoor plumbing or electricity at the Pueblo. The Rio Pueblo, running from the sacred Blue Lake in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, courses through the Pueblo. The Feast of San Geronimo is a highlight of the year, as is Christmas Eve. Local artists are known for their micaceous, gold-flecked pottery, which is sold on the Pueblo. Entrance fees include a guided tour. It is appropriate to tip your guide. $16 adults. Parties of 8 or more, $14 per person.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park (575-377-6900), 34 Country Road, Angel Fire. 24 miles east of Taos on US 64. Visitor center open daily 9–5. Chapel open daily, 24 hours. Established in 1971 by Dr. Victor Westphall to honor his son, David, killed in Vietnam in 1968, this is the only state park in the country dedicated as a Vietnam Veterans Memorial. The 6,000-square-foot visitor center offers informative and deeply touching videos, exhibits, and memorabilia. Architect Ted Luna designed it with the idea “such that no person entering it could leave with quite the same attitude toward peace and war.” Free.

MUSEUMS Ernest L. Blumenschein Home (575-758-0505), 222 Ledoux Street, Taos. Mon.–Tues. 10–4; Sat. 10–4, Sun. noon–4; call for winter hours. Closed Wednesdays and Thursdays. Taos Society of Artists founders Ernest and Mary Greene Blumenschein lived and worked in this 1797 Spanish colonial adobe. Meticulously restored, the house appears much as it did in their day, with original colors and artwork brought back to life. $8 adults, $4 under age 16, under age 5 free.

Couse/Sharp Historic Site (575-751-0369; admin@couse-sharp.org), 146 Kit Carson Road, Taos. Now on public view, studios of members of Taos Society of Artists, almost exactly as they appeared when in use by the artists. Open and tours by appointment.

Harwood Museum of Art (575-758-9826), 238 Ledoux Street, Taos. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Open Wed.–Fri. 10–5, Sat.–Sun. noon–5. Closed holidays. Here is a treasury of Taos art, housed in an exemplary nineteenth-century Spanish-Pueblo adobe structure. Founded in 1923, the Harwood contains the work of the artists who made Taos famous: Victor Higgins, Ernest Blumenschein, Andrew Dasburg, and Patrocinio Barela, as well as that of contemporary artists, such as Larry Bell, Fritz Scholder, Anita Rodriguez, and Melissa Zink. Of special note is the Agnes Martin Gallery, where seven canvasses of the nation’s most acclaimed minimalist and Taos resident for contemplation in a light-filled chamber. $10 adults, $8 seniors and students.

Kit Carson Home and Museum (575-758-4945), 113 Kit Carson Road, Taos. Open daily 11–5. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter. Famed mountain man and Indian scout Kit Carson and his wife, Josefa, lived in this twelve-room adobe for a quarter-century. It is authentically furnished, and guides in period costume give tours. Next door is the Carson House Shop, an excellent showcase of Indian and folk art, jewelry, Christmas ornaments, and the work of Taos artist Valerie Graves. $5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 teens, $2 children, under age 6 free.

THE 1,000-YEAR-OLD ADOBE DWELLINGS OF TAOS PUEBLO SHINE WITH BEAUTY IN ALL SEASONS

Millicent Rogers Museum (575-758-2462; www.millicentrogers.org), 1504 Millicent Rogers Road, Taos. Four miles north of Taos off NM 522. Turn left on Millicent Rogers Road and follow the museum signs. Open daily 10–5 November–March. Closed Mondays and Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s. This outstanding private museum was founded in 1953 by relatives of Millicent Rogers, a model, heiress, and socialite who moved to Taos in 1947. Her love of regional architecture and Indian and Spanish colonial art, including Penitente Brotherhood artifacts, inspired an extensive collection of jewelry, textiles, basketry, pottery, and paintings. Here find one of the most important collections of black pottery by San Ildefonso Pueblo artist Maria Martinez and her family. A trip here makes a great immersion into the art of the region. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $6 students. Group rates available. Fantastic gift shop.

Taos Art Museum and Fechin House (575-758-2690), 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. Open summer Tues.–Sun. 10–5; winter hours Tues.–Sun. 10–4. A Russian-style adobe home designed by artist Nicolai Fechin features his woodwork, paintings, collection of Asian and Russian art, plus many fine works by members of the Taos Society of Artists. $8 adults; $7 seniors. Free every Sun. to Taos County visitors.

To Do

BICYCLING US 64 between Taos and Angel Fire. An approximately 25-mile ride through narrow Taos Canyon (which can back up with traffic) and over 9,100-foot Palo Flechado Pass. Hairpin turns as you travel around the mountain down into Angel Fire.

CLIMBING Mallette Park, Red River. At the west end of town three blocks from Main Street is a granite face with six bolted routes. The wooded park also has a disc golf course.

FARMERS’ MARKET Taos Farmers’ Market (575-751-7575), on the plaza, Mid-May–late-October, Sat. 8–1. Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado growers from the San Luis Valley sell the most remarkable array of produce, baked goods, flowers, preserves, bath products, and beans.

FISHING Costilla Creek/Valle Vidal. Open July 1–December 31. Catch and release of the native Rio Grande cutthroat.

Latir Lakes. It takes a moderate 4-mile hike to reach the nine glacier lakes that form the Latirs, which hold trophy cutthroats. The views and the wildflowers make it a worthwhile trek. The Latirs are the headwaters of the Rio Costilla.

Rio Grande. The confluence of the Rio Grande and Red River near Questa and just below John Dunn Bridge in Arroyo Hondo.

Rio Hondo. Parallels NM 150 from Arroyo Hondo up to Taos Ski Valley.

Los Rios Anglers Fly Shop & Guide Service (575-758-2798), 126 W. Plaza Drive, Taos. The professional fly-fishing guides here are some of the best in the state. A complete fly-fishing shop offering gear, information, and year-round pack-and-float trips—including trips into the Rio Grande Gorge and isolated fishing on private lands.

Solitary Angler (575-758-5653), 226C Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. To book a guided trip on local public water or on the Solitary Angler’s 11 private miles of Culebra Creek or the Cimarron Holy Water, give a call. There’s also a club for serious fisher people.

Eagle Nest Lake State Park Eagle Nest Marina (575-377-6941), 28386 NM 64, Eagle Nest, can give you information on boat rentals and activities. Eagle Nest Lake: This 2,400 surface acre lake offers some of the best trout and kokanee salmon fishing in the state. Seasonal recreation opportunities include boating, hiking, picnicking, and cross-country skiing, with opportunities to see an abundance of birds and other wildlife, including elk, dear, bears, and eagles. Set in the scenic Moreno Valley and surrounded by two of the state’s highest peaks, Baldy Mountain and Wheeler Peek. At 8,300 feet in elevation, the park offers a cool retreat from the summer heat for fisherman, boaters, campers, and wildlife enthusiasts. A state of the art green visitor center features exhibits, a classroom, and expansive patio overlooking the lake, making Eagle Nest Lake an ideal location for wildlife viewing. In the winter, ice fishing and snowmobiling are popular sports when ice thickness permits. Snowmobiling is limited to the lake surface.

FOLK LIFE FESTIVAL AT THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM

GHOST TOWNS Elizabethtown, 4 miles north of Eagle Nest on NM 38. The first incorporated town in NM in 1868, E-town, named for a founder’s daughter, was a boom-and-bust gold mining settlement. The ruins of several buildings and the cemetery linger.

GOLFING Angel Fire Golf Course (575-377-4488), Angel Fire Resort, 10 Miller Lane, Angel Fire. At 8,600 feet, this is one of the highest and most lushly wooded regulation courses in the world. Usually open mid-May to mid-October, it’s an 18-hole, par-72 course with driving range and putting greens, club and cart rentals, and a restaurant, snack bar, and bar. The clubhouse is glorious. Greens fee, including cart, for guests, $95.

Taos Country Club (575-758-7300), 54 Golf Course Drive, Ranchos de Taos. Open year-round, weather permitting. Tee times are required and take up to a seven-day advance reservation. Open to the public, at 7,000 feet this is a forgiving desert course of 18 holes. $43–48.

HIKING West Rim Trail (575-758-8851). From the Plaza, north on Paseo del Pueblo Norte 4 miles. Left at signal at the intersection with US 64, west 7 miles. Cross the bridge and turn left at the rest stop immediately west of the bridge. A well-maintained bathroom and water are available. Nine miles each way—go as far as you like—are flat, easy to moderate views of clouds and mountains. Recommended as a beginning mountain biking trail. Careful in summer, snakes are common; can be dangerous for your four-footed friends.

Williams Lake. The trailhead is above Taos Ski Valley, past the Bavarian Restaurant about 1.3 miles. The best time to go on this classic Taos hike, rated moderate, is during July–August, when the wildflowers are at their peak. Plan for 4 miles on a well-marked trail, at an altitude of 11,450 feet to Williams Lake at the base of Wheeler Peak.

Wild Rivers and Orilla Verde Recreation Areas (www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/taos/orilla_verde.html), 16 miles south of Taos off NM 68. Twenty-two miles of rim and river trails, easy to intermediate, amid rocky lava flows and following the winding path of the Rio Grande. Plenty of riparian areas with good birding and wildlife viewing.

HORSEBACK RIDING Cieneguilla Stables (575-751-2815), 13 miles south of Taos Visitor Center on east side of NM 68, near Pilar. Custom rides or ride to the miner’s cabin Rio Grande Gorge canyon country.

Taos Indian Horse Ranch (575-758-3212), Pinon Road off NM 150, Taos. Horseback rides, sleigh rides, cookouts, Indian storytellers, and Taos Mountain music. Reservations required. About $100 per person for a two-hour ride.

Nancy Burch Roadrunner Tours, NM 64, Angel Fire. The ultimate “City Slicker” experience. Lessons, one-hour to all-day rides, sleigh rides, romantic wedding and engagement rides into the Carson National Forest and along the Enchanted Circle.

NATIVE CUTTHROAT TROUT ROVE THE RIO COSTILLA

MOUNTAIN BIKING For detailed information, visit the BLM Pilar Visitor Center (575-751-4899), 15 miles south of Taos on NM 68 or the BLM Taos office (575-751-4899) on Cruz Alta Road.

Rio Grande Gorge West Rim Trail, the Rio Grande Gorge Rest Area at US 64. An easy 9-mile one-way trip with great rewards. Check out the Rio Grande Gorge from the bridge south to NM 567.

Wild Rivers Recreation Area, 35 miles north of Taos on NM 378 east of Cerro. From the 6-mile Rinconada Loop Trail and the 5-mile Red River Fault Trail to the 2-mile Red River Fault Trail, this trailhead offers rides from easy to difficult. Maps are at the Wild Rivers Visitor Center or any BLM office. $3 day use.

NATURAL HOT SPRINGS Blackrock (John Dunn) Springs are located on the west bank of the Rio Grande just below the John Dunn Bridge. From Taos Plaza, go north on US Highway 64. Continue straight onto New Mexico 522 at the traffic signal where US Highway 64 turns left. Six miles past the intersection with US 64, just over a small bridge on the Rio Hondo, turn left onto the paved County Road B005. Drive slowly through the village of Arroyo Hondo. In 1 mile, the pavement ends. Cross another bridge and climb a short hill. Bear right in 0.1 mile and ignore the many side tracks as the main road snakes to the top of the hill before descending into the Rio Hondo Canyon. The road into the canyon is rough but passable. Cross the Rio Grande on John Dunn Bridge and continue 0.2 mile.

Manby (Stagecoach) Springs are located on the east bank of the Rio Grande. Access is from US 64, then onto a private road. From Taos, drive north on US Highway 64 to the intersection with New Mexico Highway 522. Continue straight on New Mexico Highway 522. In 5.3 miles, just before the road begins a long descent, turn left on County Road B007. Continue 2.3 miles on this gravel road, and turn left onto a very rutted dirt road. From this point, a high-clearance vehicle or mountain bike is recommended. Follow the main track, taking care to stay out of driveways along the way. After a half-mile on the rutted track, take the left fork, then the right fork in another 0.8 mile. Reach the parking area on the rim of the Rio Grande Gorge at the unmarked trailhead in another half-mile, 1.8 miles from County Road B007. Note that the roads to the trailhead are impassable during wet weather.

BUFFALO THUNDER IS A STUNNING RESORT OUTSIDE SANTA FE

RIVER RAFTING The Taos Box and the Racecourse are two of the most popular white-water stretches on the Upper Rio Grande. If runoff is good, you can be on the river from May through July. Adrenaline is the name of the game. Be prepared for Class IV rapids.

Cottam’s Rio Grande Rafting (800-322-8267; www.cottamsriogranderafting.com), 207 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos.

Los Rios River Runners (575-776-8854; www.losriosriverrunners.com), P.O. Box 2734, Taos. In business more than 40 years.

SCENIC DRIVES Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway (877-885-3885). US 64 and NM 522 and 38. Setting out from Taos, the Enchanted Circle links the communities of Angel Fire and Eagle Nest, circling Wheeler Peak, the state’s highest mountain. Return to Taos via Bobcat Pass through Red River and Questa. The best time to do the 84-mile Enchanted Circle is when the aspens are turning, usually the last weekend in September, but it’s beautiful any time. The road takes you over Bobcat Pass, with its 9,820-foot summit, so named for the many bobcats that lived there. This was once all part of the Maxwell Land Grant, the largest private land holding in the Western Hemisphere during the nineteenth century.

High Road to Taos (no phone). Pick up the High Road by driving north on NM 68 out of Santa Fe through Española. Go right at NM 76 and continue on through the towns of Chimayo, Truchas, Ojo Sarco, Peñasco, and on to Taos on NM 75. Cordova is a jog to the right between Chimayo and Truchas. This is a scenic drive any time of year, during a golden fall, a green spring, or a snowy winter, but always be alert to weather reports and fast-changing weather, whatever the season. Pack a picnic, binoculars, camera, and fishing gear, and bring your hiking boots and multiple layers of outdoors wear. Each village has its historic Spanish colonial church, and each village lives much as it has for centuries, making them almost living history museums. The Sangre de Cristo Mountains offer heart-stopping views. Investigate the galleries, cafés, roadside stands, and historic churches along the way. Easily an all-day trip, particularly for shutterbugs.

River Road to Taos. From Española, continue north on NM 68 for 47 miles to Taos. The road follows the course of the Rio Grande and swoops past the green agricultural villages of Alcalde and Velarde, then Embudo, then past the landmark Ranchos Church in Ranchos de Taos. In fall, produce stands along the way are filled with the new harvest—local apples, cider, plums, pears, squash, melons, and preserves. From late May on through midsummer, you are likely to see river rafters down below. It’s fun to stop at the little store and café in Pilar, a.k.a. the Pilar Yacht Club, where rafters put in. If you have time and inclination, you can turn right on NM 76 toward Dixon and take the remaining High Road to Taos through Peñasco, Ojo Sarco, and on into Taos along NM 76-75.

Wild Rivers Back Country Byway (www.newmexico.org/things-to-do/scenic-byways/wild-rivers/), 26 miles north of Taos, goes west on NM 378 off NM 522, north of Questa. This is a phenomenal 13-mile ride that parallels the Rio Grande and Red rivers along NM 378, with access to Wild Rivers Recreation Area north of Taos. Scenic overlooks above the Rio Grande Gorge into the canyon will have you in a state of wonder. You must return the same way you drove in. A word of caution: If you are thinking of hiking down to the river, be prepared for a Grand Canyon–Bright Angel Trail–style return—in other words, the hike up and back is only for those in shape, wearing good hiking boots. While it is not a difficult hike, it is extremely steep and seems to become longer with every step. And there are no mules to come rescue you.

SKIING For cross-country ski instruction and tours in the Taos area, call Millers Crossing (575-754-2374; 800-966-9381), 417 W. Main Street, Red River. The place to go touring near Taos is the Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area (575-754-6112), 29 Sangre de Cristo Drive, Red River. Just east of Red River atop Bobcat Pass, it offers 30 kilometers of groomed and ungroomed trails amid 600 forested acres. Here, you’ll find not only dog-friendly trails and prime ski terrain for classical, freestyle, and Telemark, but also instructors, patrols, warming huts, and rentals, plus snowshoeing and special events. $10 a day; rentals $12 a day; or $27 for three days

Angel Fire Resort (575-377-6401; 800-633-7463 information, snow report, and reservations; www.angelfireresort.com), 10 Miller Lane, Angel Fire; 22 miles east of Taos via US 64 and NM 434. With 10,677 ft. peak elevation; 2,077 ft. vertical drop; 210 in. average snowfall; snow-making over 52 percent of the area; trails: 67 downhill (31 percent beginner, 48 percent intermediate, 21 percent advanced); groomed 35-kilometer cross-country track; lifts: 5 chairlifts (2 high-speed quads, 3 doubles, 2 Sunkid Wondercarpets); $64 adults, $48 half day; $44 ages 7–12; 6 and under/70 and over free; sightseers may purchase a single lift ride to the summit for $20. Today, it is known as a family resort and a “cruiser’s mountain,” featuring a variety of long, well-groomed trails (the longest is 3.5 miles). Angel Fire is predominantly tailored to beginning and intermediate skiers; however, it also offers a number of outstanding expert runs, including the addition of a new expert trail called C-4. A short 15-minute hike from the top of the Southwest Flyer chairlift, C-4 will top the adventurous skier and boarder’s must-hit list on any fresh powder day. Widespread snow-making guarantees 2,000 vertical feet of skiing even in the driest of years, and only in the very busiest of times does the lift line require more than a five- or ten-minute wait. Another plus is the large picnic pavilion on the mountain that can accommodate several hundred skiers at a time.

With 3,000 beds, Angel Fire has one of the largest, most affordable lodging bases in the state. The resort also boasts more major events than almost any other area—for example, the world shovel race championships, featuring the wild antics of riders careening down the mountain at more than 60 miles an hour on scoop shovels.

Angel Fire Resort has also bolstered its freestyle parks with exciting features, helping cement Angel Fire’s position as snowboarding capital of the state. They have added more than a dozen high-quality freestyle rails and fun box features, including the most popular flat rails, rainbows, double-kinks, C-rails, tabletops, and a few surprises—open challenges to freestyle skiers, as well as boarders.

The Angel Fire Resort Nordic Center offers 10 kilometers of groomed classic and skate cross-country ski trails of graded levels, plus snowshoeing lanes and a family snow play hill for sledding. Lessons, equipment rental, retail, and pull-sleds are available in the full-service winter sports shop downstairs. When you’re done playing outside and need to warm up, come into the Club and grab a hot chocolate and enjoy the beautiful views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Snowboarding lessons are available at the ski school. Other opportunities for outdoor fun include a terrain park, zipline, tubing, polar coaster, and cross-country skiing.

Red River Ski Area (575-754-2223 information, snow report; 800-331-SNOW reservations; www.redriverskiarea.com), P.O. Box 900, Red River; 37 miles north of Taos via NM 522 and NM 38. With 10,350 ft. peak elevation; 1,600 ft. vertical drop; 214 in. average snowfall; snow-making over 85 percent of area; trails: 57 downhill (32 percent beginner, 38 percent intermediate, 30 percent advanced); cross-country available nearby at Enchanted Forest; lifts: 7 lifts (2 double chairs, 3 triple chairs, 2 surface tow); $64 adults, $49 half day; $58 teens; $49 children and seniors, over 70 and under 3 free. Red River was started in 1961 by a well-loved oilman and character named John Bolton, and its first lift consisted of used derricks and cables that Bolton imported from an oil field in Texas. Located in the northern arc of the Enchanted Circle, Red River is another family-friendly ski area, a great place to learn, with extensive snowmaking and numerous wide beginner and intermediate trails. Runs such as Kit Carson and Broadway allow plenty of room for everybody to fall down, while expert speedways like Cat Skinner and Landing Strip are enough to get anyone’s adrenaline pumping. The area rents about 1,000 pairs of skis, with another 2,000 pairs available in Red River. It also hosts on-slope bars and restaurants.

“That was sick” is one of the most common phrases you’ll hear out here. Red River has three terrain parks tiered for every level of expertise, and its modern park designs will keep you coming back for more. Graduate from Pot O’ Gold Terrain Park, located on Gold Rush Hill, cruise into Bobcat Terrain Park, located on Bobcat Run, or head over to Hollywood Terrain Park, where your freshest tricks can be seen from the new triple chair.

Red River features a 4,500-bed lodging base less than a block from the ski area. During February’s Mardi Gras in the Mountains, the whole town turns to cooking Cajun food and dresses in festive southern garb. There’s a moonlight ski and snowshoe event, and Spring Break Torchlight and Fireworks show. Red River has a Kinderski school for ages four to ten and Buckaroo Child Care for ages six months to four years.

Claiming to offer the best value among Rocky Mountain ski areas, Red River caters to juniors, teens, small children, and families. There’s tubing, snowboarding, and a well-respected ski school. You can enjoy excellent skiing on the 10,350-foot mountain, which rises from the middle of town toward the Old Western mining sites of the 1800s. High in the southern Rockies, skiers tackle 57 powder-covered runs. Gaining popularity is the “Moon Star Mining Camp,” where the family can ski to a replica of the Moon Star Mine of the 1890s. $76.

Taos Ski Valley (575-776-2291; 800-776-1111; www.skitaos.com), P.O. Box 90, Taos Ski Valley; 18 miles northeast of Taos via US 64 and NM 150. With 12,481 ft. peak elevation; 3,281 ft. vertical drop; 300 in. average snowfall; snow-making 100 percent, beginner and intermediate; trails: 110 downhill (24 percent beginner, 25 percent intermediate, 51 percent advanced), no cross-country; lifts: 10 chairlifts (4 quad, 1 triple, 5 double), 2 surface lifts; $110 adults; $70 children 7–12.

The indefatigable founder of Taos Ski Valley, Ernie Blake, long dreamt of his own resort, spending countless hours flying his small plane over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, scouting for the perfect site. The valley he finally located got an inauspicious start as a ski resort, with unreliable investors and near inaccessibility. But Blake persevered.

When Taos Ski Valley opened as a fledgling family ski area in 1955, a 300-foot, diesel-driven T-bar was its first lift. Taos Ski Valley has never looked back.

The tradition at Taos Ski Valley is service, and that begins with excellent engineering and design. From lift-line management to trail marking, cafeteria food, and ski school programming, the pattern is consistently high quality. Even with a record-breaking abundance of snow and people, the whole system usually works flawlessly. Exceptions are the parking lots, which because of the lay of the valley tend to be long and narrow.

Lowlanders will definitely feel the elevation here. Drink plenty of water and take frequent rests. The views across the valley and from the top of Kachina Peak (12,481 ft.) are worth a pause. The skiing is challenging, even for experts, but there are plenty of intermediate and novice slopes as well, including a few from the very top. The combination of trails called Honeysuckle, Winklereid, and Rubezahl can bring even a first-day skier down safely from the peak. If you’re into pushing the envelope, you’ll do no better than to bump and pump your way down such mogul-studded trails as the infamous Al’s Run (under the newly installed high-speed quad on Lift 1), or to try the steep trails off the West Basin Ridge.

Amenities are provided at midstation snack bars (Phoenix and Whistlestop) and in numerous lodges and restaurants at the base. Families are efficiently accommodated, with daycare for tots ages 6 weeks and up, ski school for the kids, convenient lockers and storage baskets, and a most welcome addition: ski patrollers who actually patrol the slopes and slow traffic down in tight quarters.

SNOWMOBILING A.A. Taos Ski Valley Wilderness Adventures (575-751-6051).

Carson National Forest. Access from Angel Fire tour from Forest Road 76 or the Elliot Barker Trail on Palo Flechado Pass.

Red River. Greenie Peak and Midnight Meadow are north of town.

There’s an exhilarating network of trails for snowmobilers through both the Santa Fe and Carson National Forests. Many of these regularly groomed mini-highways twist and turn through thick forests to high-alpine meadows where speedsters can zoom across wide-open spaces to their hearts’ content. Be sure to check with district forest service offices before you choose a trail. Three of the best are Fourth of July Canyon, Old Red River Pass, and Greenie Peak in the Questa Ranger District (575-758-6200) near Red River. A number of businesses in Red River also provide safe, guided snowmobile tours, complete with mountaintop hot dog cookouts. And in January, the Angel Fire Ski Area (575-377-3055) hosts the Angel Fire Snowmobile Festival, with races, free rides, buffet dinner, and prizes.

SNOWSHOEING See Angel Fire, Taos, Red River, and Enchanted Forest ski areas for snowshoeing fun. Many trails are located in the Carson National Forest as well, which are often shared with cross-country skiers and snowmobilers.

STATE PARKS Cimarron Canyon State Park (575-377-6271), P.O. 28869 US Highway 64, Eagle Nest; 3 miles east of Eagle Nest via US 64. A 33,000-acre mountainous preserve with numerous wonderful trails and camping and picnic areas.

Kit Carson Memorial Park (575-758-8234), 115 Civic Plaza Drive, Taos. Offers short walks and a playground on 22 acres.

Rio Grande Gorge State Park (contact state parks number above; 16 miles southwest of Taos on NM 570). Includes shelter, barbecues, trails, drinking water, and campgrounds along the road by the river, as well as boating at Orilla Verde.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park, 34 Country Club Road, Angel Fire. Established in 1968 by Dr. Victor Westphall and his wife, Jeanne, to honor their son David, killed in Vietnam in 1968.

Eagle Nest State Park (575-377-1594), 42 Marina, Eagle Nest. Located along the Enchanted Circle in the Moreno Valley, the lake here is stocked with salmon and trout. Boating, wildlife viewing, camping, it’s a cool, pristine, high mountain refuge in summer, ringed by mountains.

Lodging

BED & BREAKFASTS, MOTELS, AND HOTELS Air B&B and VRBO offer numerous listings in Taos.

Taos Lodging (575-751-1771), 100 Brooks Street, Taos.

Angel Fire Resort (575-377-6401), 10 Miller Lane, Angel Fire. With 157 rooms, Angel Fire Resort is by far the biggest lodging establishment in town. The decor is contemporary Southwestern, and the ski area is right outside the window. The inn has two restaurants, a lounge, and an indoor pool and hot tub. It is quite comfortable. $99–220.

American Artists Gallery House B&B (800-532-2041; aagh@newmex.com; www.taosbedandbreakfast.com), 132 Frontier Lane, Taos; 1 mile south of the Plaza. As the name implies, artists and their art are celebrated at this peaceful B&B on a secluded Taos lane. The hosts are warm and the breakfast scrumptious. The inn displays more than 300 works of art, and artists are sometimes invited to discuss their work. Kiva fireplaces and knockout views of Taos Mountain contribute to your developing love of place. With ten rooms and three very private, luxurious Jacuzzi suites in the southwestern-style complex, this B&B offers an ideal opportunity to relax and catch up on some genuine R&R. One room with partial handicapped access. $139.

The Blake at Taos Ski Valley (888-569-1756; theblake.com). Eighty-room rustic-elegant base area lodge adjacent to Lift #1, The Blake is the new face of Taos Ski Valley. A hotel where less is more, much more, where there is comfort in the use of natural materials, the display of fine local art, and sophisticated understatement rules, highlighting the light and beauty of the surroundings. There is a hush here. It is the hush of old money, or new money dressed as old, and if you have to ask the price, you probably can’t afford it. On-site dining and bar. Suites with gas fireplaces, kitchenettes, and laundry facilities, and pet-friendly lodging available. $200–300 per night.

Best Western Kachina Lodge, Resort Hotel & Meeting Center (575-758-2275), 413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos; 4 blocks north of the Plaza. Learn to time travel in Taos. Just north of the city center, this Best Western is a classic roadside motel straight out of the 1950s. Don’t miss the circular Kiva Coffee Shop, dominated by a bizarre hand-carved totem pole. Hot breakfast is included. All 118 guest rooms look onto a spacious courtyard with a broad lawn, tall pine trees, and a large outdoor heated swimming pool. The grounds have a country club feel. The Indian decor is laid on a bit thick, and there are even Indian dances on summer nights, but that’s how they did things 40 years ago. What makes this place is that it evokes nostalgia without really trying. Close to town, homey, and the price is right. Seven rooms with partial handicapped access. $89.

Casa Benavides Historic Inn (575-758-1772; www.casabenavides.com), 137 Kit Carson Road, Taos; one block east of the Plaza. Airy, light, and colorful, this sprawling B&B boasts thirty-eight guest rooms in six different buildings on 5 downtown acres. Five of the buildings are traditional southwestern adobe, and one is a western Victorian home. The rooms are spacious and modern with all the usual southwestern accents: Navajo rugs, flagstone floors, ceiling fans, skylights, Indian pottery, and kiva fireplaces. There are even a few surprises, including deerskin drums and an authentic Indian tomahawk. Owners Tom and Barbara McCarthy are native Taoseños who’ve headed a number of different retail businesses in town. Return for afternoon tea to the aroma of freshly baked cookies. The big breakfasts include homemade tortillas and waffles, Mexican eggs, and homemade muffins. A short walk to the Plaza. Guests are inevitably pleased. One room with full handicapped access. $155.

LOVERS OF ROADSIDE MEMORABILIA WON’T WANT TO MISS THE CLASSICAL GAS OUTDOOR MUSEUM ALONG THE RIVER ROAD TO TAOS

Cottonwood Inn (575-776-5826; www.taos-cottonwood.com; cottonoodinn@gmail.com), HCR 74, Box 246092, State Road 230, El Prado, Taos. Located just off the route to Taos Ski Valley, Cottonwood Inn is the brainchild of two delightful and charming California refugees who are very much in love with their renovated classic and live on-site. Pueblo estate, formerly the residence of flamboyant local artist Wolfgang Pogzeba. Cottonwood Inn is now a two suite rental. With kiva fireplaces, balconies, viga ceilings, Jacuzzis, wet bars, and skylights in most rooms, all guests need to do is kick back and enjoy the spectacular views and fabulous breakfasts. Winters bring the warmth of a roaring fire, while summer is the time to enjoy the lovely gardens on 4 acres of paradise. One room with full handicapped access. Moderate–expensive.

Dreamcatcher Bed and Breakfast (575-758-0613; 888-758-0613; www.dreambb.com), 416 La Lomita, Taos; about 1 mile southwest of the Plaza. Done up in true southwestern style, the seven cozy rooms, each with fireplace, have some unusual touches, like an aqua-colored tile floor (with radiant heat, most appreciated in winter). Big country breakfasts are served. Within walking distance of the Plaza, this casual B&B with hot tub tucked away in a country-like setting, makes for a most comfortable stay. The emphasis here is on green; much of the produce is garden fresh, grown in the garden on the premises. And there is no more delightful hostess than Prudie. She and husband John exited the corporate world for Taos, and they are now “living the dream.” Two rooms with full handicapped access. $130.

El Monte Sagrado Living Resort (575-758-3502; www.elmontesagrado.com), 317 Kit Carson Road, Taos. The phrase green grandeur might best describe the eco-friendly opulence of this resort. Some might find it a bit over the top. It feels like a tropical jungle transplanted to the high desert, and it is known for its claims of environmental purity and innovative recycling. The eighty-four lodgings include five casitas, each with its own private courtyard, and eight Global Suites, each with a wet bar, private courtyard, and gas-burning fireplace. The themes run from Native American to Marrakesh. You may stroll the exquisitely landscaped grounds studded with cascading waterfalls and crystal ponds. In addition to the Living Spa, with exotic body treatments you’ve never even heard of, this oasis offers a fabulous Aqua Center with salt-water pool, hot tub, and fitness center. The restaurant, De la Tierra, strives for elegance, while the light-filled Gardens serves a more casual breakfast and lunch. Pet friendly with fee. Three rooms with full handicapped access. $200 a night.

Hacienda Del Sol (575-758-0287; stay; www.taoshaciendadelsol.com), 109 Mabel Dodge Lane, Taos. Shaded by giant trees, this B&B was chosen by USA Today Weekend as one of America’s ten most romantic inns. Two of the eleven guest rooms are located in the main house, a beautiful 180-year-old adobe; five are in a casita, with an additional room found in a separate casita; and three are attached to the main house. Brick floors, Saltillo tiles, and hardwood floors are found in the main building, as are Pueblo-style archways, viga-and-latilla ceilings, bancos, nichos, and stained-glass windows. Four rooms have their own steam bath, while the honeymoon suite has a double-sized black Jacuzzi with a skylight for stargazing. The luxuirous level of comfort provided by the hosts, who have experience as an executive chef and cruise director, is superlative. You could easily wake up here from a restful night on the most comfortable bed in the world, look out at Taos Mountain and weep for joy, have a vision, and decide to move to Taos! Super-romantic. One room with full handicapped access. Moderate–expensive.

Hotel La Fonda de Taos (575-758-2211; www.hotellafonda.com), 108 S. Plaza, Taos; on the Plaza. If you want to be in the thick of the action, here’s the place for you, directly on the Plaza. The historic 1937 La Fonda, the grande dame known for years as the gallery of D. H. Lawrence’s paintings, underwent a complete renovation a while back. The art-embellished lobby is still sheltered by giant vigas, and the mezzanine, where continental breakfast is served, retains a mood of old-fashioned comfort. Many of the twenty-four beautifully redecorated rooms now have kiva fireplaces and a view of the Plaza below. To stay here is to travel back in time (without sacrificing any contemporary amenities) and experience the nostalgia of Taos’s heyday, when such movie stars and celebrities as Gary Cooper, Judy Garland, and Tennessee Williams visited here. One room with full handicapped access. Moderate–expensive. (Note: As of press time, we hear Hotel La Fonda has been acquired by the local chain, Heritage Hotels, so may be in for something of a makeover.)

Inn on the Rio (575-758-7199; www.innontherio.com), 910 Kit Carson Road, Taos; 1.5 miles east of the Plaza. Brilliant flower gardens and brightly painted flowers adorn this charmingly renovated 1950s-style motor court inn with heated outdoor swimming pool and hot tub, all beautifully tended by Robert and Julie Cahalane, who will do whatever it takes to make your stay perfect. Julie is a master baker who provides fresh-baked quiche, lemon poppy-seed cake, and blueberry blue corn muffins each morning to accompany a full, hot, hearty breakfast. This vintage inn, with baths whimsically hand decorated by Taos artists, is a superb place to really kick back and relax—and a great family spot as well. Featured as a choice destination in numerous national magazines with an AAA Three Diamond rating. Four rooms with partial handicapped access. Moderate.

La Doña Luz Inn (575-758-9000; 800-758-9187; www.stayintaos.com), 114 Kit Carson Road, Taos; 0.5 block east of the Plaza. If you want to be surrounded by colorful folk art and have the Plaza right out your front door, this 200-year-old inn is the place for you. These walls contain enough history and stories to keep you intrigued during your entire visit. The five guest rooms in this centrally located—practically on the Plaza—inn are all dazzlingly different—decorated with a collection of angels from around the world or filled with authentic Indian artifacts nestled in nichos or displaying a Franklin stove, claw-foot tub, blacksmith’s tools, or Winchester rifle. One room features hand-carved teak woodwork, Afghani rugs, a Kuwaiti chest, and a Balinese fertility goddess suspended over the queen-sized bed. Much of this amazing array comes from a trading post on the property. Rooms are located in three different buildings (including an adobe compound with its own courtyard). Four rooms have their own hot tub, and seven have whirlpools. One room with full handicapped access. Inexpensive–expensive.

La Posada de Taos (575-758-8164; 800-645-4803; laposada@laposadadetaos.com), 309 Juanita Lane, Taos; 2.5 blocks west of the Plaza. Opened in 1982 with the claim to being Taos’s “first B&B,” this inn has an air of romantic seclusion, perhaps because it’s located at the end of a quiet dirt road that may take a bit of patience to find. Or maybe it’s the honeymoon suite with a skylight directly over the bed. Whatever it is, this is an especially wonderful place to stay. The house, built by a founding member of the Taos Society of Artists, is replete with kiva fireplaces and private patios. The owners have installed their personal antique collection from England, making the six-room inn a distinctive blend of Southwest style and English country. The two styles make a harmonious blend. Limited handicapped access. Moderate–expensive.

Blue Sky Retreat at San Geronimo Lodge (575-751-3776; www.sangeronimolodge.com), 1101 Witt Road, Taos; 1.4 mi. from the Plaza, east off Kit Carson Road/US 64. To immerse in the essence of Taos, and to float in Taos’s only chile-shaped swimming pool, book a stay in this 1925 inn, the town’s first resort. If you have the heart of a time traveler, if you yearn for old New Mexico as it was in the heyday of the Taos Society of Artists, this eighteen-room lodge is your place. Thick adobe walls and viga ceilings envelop the visitor in a sense of the past as authentic as the imagination fancies. Authentic period art and New Mexican wooden furniture contribute to the well-worn elegance; kiva fireplaces create a glow at day’s end. It’s off the beaten path yet, once you know the way, it’s close to town, on its northern end, toward Taos Ski Valley. Situated beside an acequia, with a clear view of Taos Mountain, amidst ancient cottonwoods and lush apricot and pear trees, San Geronimo is a place to escape to, relax, and wrap up in the romance of the distinctive locale that is Taos. A labyrinth and prayer path trail, open to guests and to the public, enhance meditative moments. Dog-friendly rooms may be shared with your beloved pooch, and dietary needs are graciously honored—advance notice requested. A luscious hot breakfast, included in the price of a stay, is highlighted by fresh fruit and house-made jams, salsas, and chutneys. Specialties like blue corn–blueberry pancakes, apricot scones, and green chile strata make breakfast an event every day. No wonder guests are known to break into song when the host plays the piano! Two wheelchair-accessible rooms. Moderate–expensive.

Mabel Dodge Luhan House (575-751-9686; www.mabeldodgeluhan.com), 240 Morada Lane, Taos; 1 mile north of US 64. Set on five acres at the edge of a vast open tract of Taos Pueblo land, this rambling three-story, twenty-two-room adobe hacienda is Taos history. This is primarily because of Mabel Dodge Luhan, famous patroness of the arts who arrived in New Mexico in 1918. Let’s face it, if people are still telling stories about you fifty years after you’re gone, you’ve lived quite a life. She came at the urging of her husband at the time, artist Maurice Sterne, who was in Taos to paint Indians. Sterne eventually left, but Mabel stayed, married Taos Pueblo Indian Tony Luhan, and bought and renovated this 200-year-old structure. It quickly came to be known as the Big House, where she lived, wrote such classics as Winter in Taos, and entertained. Partial handicapped access. Moderate.

MABEL DODGE LUHAN’S HOME, LOS GALLOS, IS NOW A TAOS BED & BREAKFAST

From the 1920s through the 1940s, the Big House was visited by artistic and literary figures, including D. H. Lawrence, Georgia O’Keeffe, Carl Jung, Aldous Huxley, and Willa Cather. After Mabel died in 1962, the property was bought by actor-producer Dennis Hopper, who lived there during the filming of Easy Rider. In 1977, it was bought by a group of academics as a center for seminars and study groups. It became a B&B in the early 1980s, although workshops are still held here.

The house is filled with viga-and-latilla ceilings, arched Pueblo-style doorways, fireplaces, and dark hardwood floors. Just to curl up in the living room is to inhale the essence of what makes Taos, well, Taos. Mabel’s Bedroom Suite still contains her original bed; Tony’s Bedroom opens out onto a sleeping porch; and the Solarium, accessible only by a steep, narrow staircase, is literally a room of glass (Mabel sunbathed in the nude here)—and as legend has it, D. H. Lawrence himself painted the windows to avoid seeing Mabel’s supposed attempts at seduction. There are nine rooms in the main house, a cottage for two, and a guesthouse containing eight southwestern-style rooms. Breakfast, included in the room rates, is served in the spacious dining room. If you want to immerse in Taos history, sleep here.

Old Taos Guesthouse Inn (575-758-5448; www.oldtaos.com), 1028 Witt Road, Taos; 1.8 miles east of the Plaza. Nestled amid a stately grove of trees in a rural area just east of Taos, this 200-year-old adobe hacienda has plenty of rural Spanish charm—not to mention wonderful views of the nearby Sangre de Cristo range and Taos Plateau, a nature trail of its own, and a traditional acequia (ditch). Its nine guest rooms, with handmade aspen furniture and all sorts of thoughtful little touches, look out onto a lovely courtyard, and the century-old central living area is classically southwestern in design and decor with a red oak floor. Spa services and facials available on site. No handicapped access. Moderate.

Adobe & Pines Bed & Breakfast (575-751-0947; www.adobepines.com), 4107 Road 68, Taos. A highly acclaimed 1830s adobe where rooms have a kiva fireplace and soaking tub. Lovely gardens surround the flagstone courtyard, and there is a labyrinth to walk and meditate in that is also open to the public. Full gourmet breakfast included. Although just off the highway south of Ranchos de Taos, the place retains a serene, secluded feel. A top choice. Moderate.

El Pueblo Lodge (575-758-8700; www.elpueblolodge.com), 412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos; 0.5 mile north of the Plaza. My family, which includes an English springer spaniel and an Airedale terrier, loves staying in this convenient, unpretentious 1940s-style motel with hot tub and pool. A satisfying breakfast with many choices, including gluten-free and vegetarian, is included in the warm breakfast room. Popular with skiers. It’s a perfect location—you can walk everywhere. Hot chocolate, coffee, and tea until midnight, freshly baked chocolate chip cookies when you check in, and chips and salsa at teatime make it even nicer. Moderate.

Sagebrush Inn and Suites (575-758-2254; 800-428-3626; www.sagebrushinn.com), 1508 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos; 2 miles south of the Plaza. The Sagebrush has recently changed hands and the rooms have been refreshed. The posh Sagebrush has some amazing deals for you, with surprisingly reasonable rates. Opened in 1929 to cater to the trade between New York and Arizona, the Sagebrush Inn is one of Taos’s oldest hotels. Built in Pueblo Revival style, the inn is a sprawling structure with ninety-seven rooms, two restaurants, a famously friendly bar, a swimming pool, and two indoor hot tubs. The decor, both Indian and Spanish, includes a rich collection of paintings by southwestern masters, along with Navajo rugs. You may want to stay in the third-floor room where Georgia O’Keeffe painted. The separate Executive Suites offer alternative family lodging, including spacious suites (sleeping up to six people each) with fireplaces. A complimentary breakfast is included in the rate. The inn is pet-friendly, with pet fee and advanced booking. Restaurant and cantina on the premises. Two rooms with partial handicapped access. Moderate.

Taos Inn (1-877-807-6427; www.taosinn.com), 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos; 0.25 block north of the Plaza. If immersion in the colorful atmosphere of New Mexican arts, crafts, history, and legend is your cup of tea—or shot of tequila—you can do no better than to stay at the 1936 Taos Inn. You would join a guest register that includes the likes of Greta Garbo, Thornton Wilder, and D. H. Lawrence. It has National Landmark status and was thoroughly restored and modernized in the early 1980s. The lobby is both an art gallery and a people-watcher’s paradise, and the Adobe Bar is fondly known as “Taos’s living room,” with events from Dia de los Muertos community altars to open mike and live music every night. Doc Martin’s Restaurant, winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, is popular and atmospheric. Two rooms with full handicapped access. Moderate–expensive.

Each of the forty-four guest rooms in four separate buildings at the inn is graced with a distinct personality. Most have pueblo fireplaces, Taos-style antique furniture, bathrooms with Mexican tile, handwoven Indian bedspreads, and even cable TV. Several rooms open onto a balcony overlooking the lobby, while several more open onto a quiet courtyard in the rear. You may have to choose between the character of the main inn and the updated amenities of the back properties. The inn offers specials—if you stay three nights, you get the fourth one free, for example. A swimming pool is available in warm weather, and for weary skiers, a Jacuzzi bubbles invitingly in the plant-filled greenhouse.

Touchstone Inn Spa & Gallery (575-779-1174; www.touchstoneinn.com), 110 Mabel Dodge Lane, Taos; 1 mile north of the Plaza. Located on the edge of Taos Pueblo lands, bordered by tall trees, with splendid views of Taos mountain from the two-acre grounds, Touchstone Inn is a lovingly restored historic adobe that fulfills every fantasy of Taos. Optional breakfast is vegetarian and gluten-free; artist studio space avaialble for rental. In-room Jacuzzi tubs, outdoor hot tub, lovely gardens, and historic associations with salon diva Mabel Dodge Luhan, the spa treatments more than complete an already perfect experience. Most of the nine rooms, named for artists, have fireplaces. Spa packages available. No handicapped access. Moderate–expensive.

CAMPING Golden Eagle RV Park (575-377-6188; 800-388-6188), 50 W. Therma Drive, off US 64 in Eagle Nest. A 531-space RV park, including twenty-nine pull-throughs, restrooms, cabins, showers, RV supplies, propane, and game room. Open year-round. $39.95 nightly.

Questa Lodge (575-586-9913), 80 Lower Embargo Road, Questa. Motel and RV park with twenty-six full-service hookups, six cabins, tent sites, laundromat, restrooms, and children’s playground, pet park. Open year-round.

Road Runner RV Resort (575-754-2286), 1371 E. Main Street, Red River. Camping for 150 vehicles with 89 full hookups, laundry, showers, tennis court, restrooms, cable TV, playground, barbecue area, picnic tables, fire ring, tepees, Wi-Fi, and gazebo. $45 nightly.

Red River RV Park (575-754-6187), 100 High Cost Trail, Red River. Pet friendly, open year round, Wi-Fi, cable, full hookups, three yurts, and river fishing.

Taos Valley RV Park and Campground (575-578-4469), 120 Este Es Road, Taos. Complete commercial campground including thirty-five full hookups, seventy-five water and electric hookups, eighteen tent sites, playground, rec room, showers, phones, convenience store, and laundromat. Open year-round. $42 nightly.

See Carson National Forest (here), where you can camp virtually anywhere.

Questa Lodge (575-586-9913), 8 Lower Embargo Road, Questa. Open May–October on the Red River, only a quarter-mile off NM 522, there is a motel and RV park with twenty-six full-service hookups, five cabins, and tent sites. $32 RV site; $60–150. A 28-acre campground has it all, including almost 100 full hookups, laundry, tennis court, wildlife, and playground. $32–37.

Where to Eat

DINING OUT Lambert’s of Taos (575-758-1009), 123 Bent Street, Taos. Open daily. L, D, Sunday brunch. In addition to having what is widely considered the most complete and intriguing wine list in town, Lambert’s delivers a fine meal in a relaxing atmosphere conducive to high enjoyment. This is one of those rare places that will feel like a bargain despite the considerable tab. Appetizers featuring fresh lobster, like lobster gazpacho, and other seasonally available ingredients are creative, light, and scrumptious, like the vanilla saffron poached pear salad. The house special of ancho and espresso-rubbed lamb loin with red wine demi-glace, the Harris Ranch all-natural filet mignon, and the Maple Leaf duck two ways are but a few examples of the grace and flair demonstrated here. The menu changes seasonally. Sitting at the Treehouse Lounge, open at 2:30 PM daily, is where you’re likely to find the locals. Dinner over the budget? Lunch is served daily, while the Sunday brunch is legendary. Partial handicapped access; reservations recommended. Expensive–very expensive.

Love Apple (575-751-0050), 803 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos. D only. The food is quirky, the menu limited, and everything served from the tiny kitchen in this crumbling adobe former chapel is delish, starting with the cornbread all the way to the chocolate mousse. Free range and locally sourced ingredients, intriguing salad combinations, New Mexican traditional dishes made with nontraditional ingredients, all served with casual elegance by candlelight make this one romantic adventure. Some interesting deconstructed dishes. Call ahead to be sure the menu is diverse enough for your party. The steaks are scrumptious, and, for the daring, so is the wild boar. The menu changes often. Wines are excellent, and do save room for the homemade desserts, particularly whatever is chocolate. One memorable evening guaranteed. The “love apple” refers to an antique moniker of the tomato. No handicapped access; reservations strongly recommended. Expensive.

The Bavarian Ski Restaurant & Lodge (575-776-8020), 100 Kachina Road, Taos Ski Valley, Taos. Open daily during winter; call for summer hours. L, D, après ski. This is one hopping place at lunchtime during ski season. Warm and cozy as a German beer hall, it is the place to dine and unwind. You can ski to this mid-mountain European log lodge or call for a van to pick you up at Taos Ski Valley. Featuring German and European specialties such as Wiener schnitzel, bratwurst, Hungarian goulash soup, apple strudel, and beer imported from the oldest brewery in Munich. Bask in the winter sunshine on the sundeck surrounding this re-creation of an Alpine ski lodge. Handicapped access; reservations recommended. Expensive.

Martyrs Steakhouse Restaurant (575-751-3020), 146 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Open daily. L, D. White linen, excellent beef, fancy cocktails, and elegant service fill a dining void Taos didn’t know it had. Oysters, veal, local lamb, and free-range chicken are all served with otherworldly side dishes. Whether you choose the lovely patio or indoor dining room, you will enjoy fine dining here. The prime rib is especially succulent, and unless you’ve just been skiing all day, the serving is generous enough to share. Expensive.

Old Martina’s Hall (575-758-3003), 4149 NM, Ranchos de Taos. Open daily, B, L, D, brunch. The restoration of the former Ranchos de Taos 68 roadside eyesore does not disappoint. The food is French-ish, or you might say, “American continental,” creative, and exquisitely presented. Stop in for a meal or wine and moules. Gorgeous bar. Superb baked goods. Early bird prix-fixe three-course menu. Moderate.

Trading Post Café & Gallery Italian Restaurant (575-758-5089), 4179 NM 68, Ranchos de Taos. L–D. Closed Sundays, Christmas, and New Year’s. Located in the former general store and meeting place in town; this is a place to choose on a chilly night, in front of the fireplace or at the bar, an excellent place to dine if solo. Order a glass of fine wine and peruse the extensive menu that includes salads, fish, pastas, soups, roast duck, chicken Vesuvio, paella, and a large selection of daily specials. In warm weather, try the patio. This is the spot for casual sophistication. Moderate–expensive.

Taos Diner (575-758-2374), 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Open daily. B, L. Although Taos Diner has opened a second kitchen on the south end of town, I prefer the original, quintessentially Taos-funky location for huevos rancheros with red chile, Cobb salad, local natural burgers, and general deliciousness. You can order half a salad. Much of the food is locally sourced. The red chile is good and hot. No wonder locals flock here. Check out the upscale food emporium next door for goodies for your special picnic and extra-healthy snacks. Partial handicapped access; no reservartions. Inexpensive.

Michael’s Kitchen Restaurant & Bakery (575-758-4178), 304C Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos; 0.3 mile north of the Plaza. Open Mon.–Thurs. 7–2:30; Fri.–Sun. 7–8, closed major holidays. B, L, D. You can’t avoid Michael’s Kitchen while in Taos. The menu has something for everyone, the doughnuts are beloved, the red chile is just right, and parking is no problem. And the price is right, too. Don’t be put off if there is a line. It moves quickly. Michael’s Kitchen serves delicious hearty dishes from fried chicken to enchiladas, chosen from a tabloid-sized menu. As you walk in the door, you will notice the large display cases full of breakfast pastries, breads, pies, and other mouthwatering desserts baked fresh daily at the restaurant. Once you finish gawking at the salad-plate-sized cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing and confetti sprinkles on top, have a seat at the counter or at a table in one of the main dining rooms and settle in for a while. Partial handicapped access; no reservations. Inexpensive.

Bearclaw Bakery & Café (575-758-1332), 228A Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos; 0.3 miles north of the Plaza. Open daily 8 AM–3 PM B, L. The former pastry chef from Taos Inn has gone out on her own and is serving gorgeous baked goods, including fabulous pastries as big as actual bearclaws and specializing in gluten free cookies, coffee cakes, and other assorted goodies. The creative menu includes spins on local traditional dishes like breakfast fajitas with organic eggs and coffee and includes an alternative serving of greens for carbs, a delicious dish of lightly sautéed chard and kale. Omelets and blue corn pancakes star at breakfast; lunch starts at 11 AM and features salads, homemade soup of the day with housemade bread, bison burger, and lamb gyro. Anthony’s Bearclaw Reuben is the best! Partial handicapped access; reservations. Inexpensive–moderate.

Ranchos Plaza Grill (575-758-5788), 6 St. Francis Plaza, Ranchos de Taos. Closed Mondays. B, L. Sit on the patio, in view of the most painted and photographed church in America, the old Ranchos San Francisco de Asis Church made famous by Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams. Then dig into some of the most savory red chile you’ll find anywhere. The blue corn cheese enchiladas with red chile are pure New Mexico. The Ranchos Plaza Grill specializes, most appropriately, in classic New Mexico cooking, served in an ancient rambling adobe hacienda. Partial handicapped access; reservations recommended. Inexpensive.

Taos Pizza Out Back (575-758-3112), 712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Open daily; closed Thanksgiving, Christmas. L, D. Don’t miss this funky little pizza joint slightly outside the Taos town limits. Don’t be put off by its “back in the day” appearance. The undisputed local favorite pizzeria, Out Back is one of the hippest pizza parlors you’ve ever seen, complete with an old-fashioned gas pump in the corner and customers’ crayoned works of art hanging on the walls. It specializes in “Taos-style gourmet pizza,” lovingly made to order from organic Colorado wheat. Because the place is so often packed, you may want to order in advance or do take-out. Try the Florentine, with chicken, garlic, and herbs sautéed in white wine, or the portobello mushroom pie. Servings are more than generous, and they don’t scrimp on the toppings. One slice will fill you up, but it’s so delicious, you’ll want more. The salads are fresh and generous as well. Partial handicapped access; no reservations. Moderate.

Orlando’s New Mexican Café (575-751-1450), 1114 Don Juan Valdez Lane, Taos; 1.8 miles north of the Plaza on left. Open daily, closed Sundays and Christmas. L, D. If you’re in the market for authentic northern New Mexico cooking without the lard, you can’t do better than Orlando’s. The decor of colorful Mexican folk art, in lime and hot pink, accentuated with punched tinwork, and the scrumptious desserts all contribute to a delightful experience. Try the chile bowl “with everything,” or go for one of the best Frito pies in northern New Mexico. Summer dining on the patio is a joy, though it can be very crowded during peak times, so plan accordingly. No handicapped access; no reservations. Inexpensive.

Gutiz (575-758-1226), 8128 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos; 1.5 miles north of the Plaza on left. Open Tues.–Sun. 8 AM–3 PM B, L. A local favorite with luscious crepes and French toast for breakfast and outstanding soups and salads at lunch. The place for a croque monsieur, paella, or specialty sandwich. A little pricey but worth it. Go for the Gutiz grilled cheese—three varieties melted together. Bonus: sinfully good chocolate truffles in exotic flavors like cardamom and green tea, sold here and here only. No handicapped access; reservations. Moderate.

Five Star Burger (575-758-8484), 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos. Open daily. Get your burger in bison, lamb, turkey, veggie, or the old-fashioned way, with green chile, cheese, and Harris Ranch beef. Go for the crispy sweet potato fries. A bit pricier than your chain burger, but oh so worth it. Truly satisfying and, ultimately, a reasonable place to take the family for lunch or dinner. Money can’t buy happiness, but it can buy satisfaction. At least here it can. The decor is a bit sterile and chainlike, but don’t let that deter you. Inexpensive.

Elevation Coffee (575-779-6078), 1110 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Conveniently located on the way to Taos Ski Valley, Elevation serves up creamy lattes that are a work of art.

Bent Street Deli & Cafe (575-758-5787), 120 Bent Street, Taos; in the Dunn House complex. Tasty soups, salads, and sandwiches.

Coffee Spot (575-758-8556), 900 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Open daily 6 AM–6 PM. Small plates, breakfast and lunch all day, fine baked goods and decadent desserts, including fudge and rice krispy treats, cheesecake and pie.

El Gamal (575- 613-0311), 112 Dona Luz, Taos. A Middle Eastern café serving fresh bagels, pita sandwiches, and hummus.

Shotgun Willie’s (575-754-6505), 403 W. Main Street, Red River. Homemade barbecue by the pound, hand-breaded catfish, and New Mexican cuisine hearty enough to appease any starving skier. Looking, as it does, like a small shack of a place, you might be tempted to pass Shotgun Willie’s by. Don’t make that mistake. This place serves by far the best barbecue (and remember, there are a lot of Texans in Red River) and the fattest breakfast burritos, and the paper plates don’t hurt a bit. Inexpensive.

Taos Cow Ice Cream Scoop Shop Café & Deli (575-776-5640), 485 NM 150, Arroyo Seco. Open daily 7–6. You might think you’re in a time warp here with the longhairs and Rastafarians, but we all know a good thing when we see it. If you’re an ice cream lover, head up the Taos Ski Valley Road to the ice creamery that has the creamiest, most exquisite all-natural and rBGH-free ice cream you’ve ever tasted, in delectable seasonal flavors, such as peach and lavender, and the chocolate variations will win your heart. Freshly roasted organic Fair Trade coffee and Wi-Fi, too. Sandwiches and soups will satisfy your lunch cravings. Inexpensive.

Tim’s Stray Dog Cantina (575-776-2894), 105 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley. Open daily 8–9 winter, 11–9 summer. This is the place for a lively, if not rowdy, après-ski libation. Plenty of big portions of standard American fare and “famous margaritas” await. Inexpensive.

Zeb’s Restaurant & Bar (575-377-6358), 3431 Mountainview Boulevard, Angel Fire. Open daily. L, D. This big pub serves up Mexican food, burgers, steaks, and salads at reasonable prices. It may remind you of your college hangout, but there’s no problem feeding a hungry family after a day of skiing. It’s not gourmet fare, but it’s been around a long time. Inexpensive–Moderate.

Entertainment

Alley Cantina (575-758-2121), 121 Teresina Lane, Taos. Said to be Taos’s oldest building, the place draws crowds of tourists and locals who dance into the late hours to the live music every night. Happy hour is a bargain.

Best Western Kachina Lodge (575-758-2275), 413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Local bands play here weekend nights.

Bull O’ The Woods Saloon (575-754-2593), 401 E. Main Street, Red River. Live music nightly at 9 PM. Dancing, too. This is the nightlife scene in Red River. It’s a historic bar with shuffleboard, pool, and karaoke.

El Taoseno Restaurant and Lounge (575-758-4142), 819 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos. If you want to mingle with the locals, hang out here on a Friday night. One of them might ask you for a turn on the big dance floor.

Eske’s Brew Pub and Restaurant (575-758-1517), 106 Des Georges Place, Taos, is still the best place to relax with a microbrew, brats, and green chile stew.

Metta Theater (575-758-1104), 1470 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Innovative, offbeat, premier, and serious theater featuring true local talent. Worth checking out.

Sagebrush Inn (575-758-2254), 1508 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos. Live music most nights at 9 PM, with some of the best local country and western performers and dancing.

Taos Center for the Arts (575-758-2052; www.taoscenterforthearts.org), 133 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. The Taos Community Auditorium here is a venue for music, theater, exhibitions, film, and concerts of all varieties.

Adobe Bar, Taos Inn (505-758-2233; www.taosinn.com), 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Long considered “Taos’s living room,” there is a huge variety of live entertainment here most nights in the Adobe Bar to accompany your margarita. (May I recommend the Baby Buddha?) Walk right in and make yourself at home. The place can get elbow-to-elbow on weekend evenings. In warmer weather, the street side patio is the place to hangout with your adult beverage.

Selective Shopping

Brodsky Bookshop (575-758-9468), 226 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. An almost “legacy” intimate shop with a wide range of western and southwestern fiction and nonfiction, general interest titles, and used books—plus maps and cards. The scent of the old days wafts through. An indie bookstore of 40 years.

Twirl Toy Store and Play Space (575-751-1402), 225 Camino de la Placita, Taos. Those who say there are not enough activities for kids in Taos have not been to Twirl. Part playground, part activity and crafts center, and mostly just the most magical toy store–for all ages—you have ever seen, Twirl gives kids the world from their point of view.

Overland Fine Sheepskin & Leather (575-758-8820), 1405 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Shearling coats to see you through the coldest winters, plus hats, slippers, mittens, and more. Imported fine Italian leathers and gorgeous beaded leather jackets. Find something fine to fit the budget—belts, gloves, slippers, wallets—or splurge on a lifetime purchase. Items sold here will never go out of style. Look for the spring sales, starting around Valentine’s Day.

GAMING

In addition to serving as venues for Las Vegas–style gaming and dining, Indian-run casinos are popular venues for celebrity performers.

Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino (505-455-5555), 30 Buffalo Thunder Trail, on US 84/285 north of Santa Fe. The newest and most exciting place to try and win your fortune.

Camel Rock Casino (800-GO-CAMEL), 17486A US 84/285, 10 minutes north of downtown Santa Fe. Run by Tesuque Pueblo, Camel Rock offers slots, blackjack, bingo, roulette, and a restaurant.

Cities of Gold Casino (505-455-3313), 10-B Cities of Gold Road, on US 84/285, 15 miles north of Santa Fe. Cities of Gold is run by Pojoaque Pueblo and has more than 700 slot machines, in addition to other games, as well as an extravagant 24-hour buffet spread, simulcasting.

Ohkay Casino (505-747-1668), 68 New Mexico 291, Ohkay Owingeh, along US 84/285, just north of Española. Operated by San Juan Pueblo, this popular casino is well known for its breakfast buffet.

Taos Mountain Casino ((575- 737-0777), 700 Veterans Highway, Taos. The only nonsmoking casino in the state, Taos Mountain offers 200 slots, restaurant, gaming tables, smoke shop—but no bingo.

Hilton Santa Fe Buffalo Thunder (505-455-5555), 20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Santa Fe. Actually located out of town on US 84/285, this is the newest and most deluxe resort in the area, with a knockout art collection, revolving tower gallery, four great restaurants, lovely pool, spa, fabulous golf course, and accessible casino. The only glitch is it is difficult to pin down rates, which are highly negotiable depending on occupancy and time of week and year. Rates are a tightly held secret, and no rate sheet exists.

THE RUSTIC-ELEGANT BLAKE HOTEL IS TAOS SKI VALLEY’S NEWEST RESORT

TWIRL IS A TOY STORE WHERE KIDS CAN REALLY PLAY

Steppin’ Out (575-758-4487), 120 Bent Street, Taos. Two floors of fine leather goods, from shoes to belts to handbags, is the last word in style. Some high-end waterproof boots make bad weather not only endurable but a chance for chic. Also a selection of stylish clothing to flatter the world traveler.

Starr Interiors (575-758-3065), 117 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Step into Starr and bring home the aura of the Southwest. Known for hand-crafted Zapotec Indian weavings “to last a lifetime,” this shop also features benches, tables, and trasteros (cabinets) hand-carved and hand-painted by Taos artisans. Oaxacan masks and more. A reliable decor source since 1974. Columbian art. An excellent selection of books on Navajo textiles.

At Home in Taos (575-751-1486), 117 S. Plaza, Taos. Everything you didn’t know you wanted but simply must have! Housewares, clever gifts, jewelry, pottery, cards, accessories in a huge space for browsing. Can be dangerously addicting and difficult to leave.

Moxie: Fair Trade & Handmade (575-758-1256), 216 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. OK, this is where I shop. Imports from Africa, Latin America, Nepal, cottons, felts, tie dyes, wearables, unusual decor, socks, hats, toys, all that is colorful and comfortable.

Wabi-Sabi (575-758-7801), 216 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. As serene as a tea ceremony. Japanese aesthetics and the goods you need to create “less is more” Zen beauty on your person or in your home.

Made in New Mexico (575-758-7709), 104 W. Plaza, Taos. The official home of real New Mexico products, this is the place, right on the Plaza, to purchase salsa, blue corn pancake mix, chokecherry syrup, foodstuffs, and any New Mexico memorabilia you want to bring home. Good for souvenirs and gifts.

Monet’s Kitchen (575-758-8003), 124 Bent Street, Taos. A nicely apportioned kitchen shop with espresso makers, woks, pottery, aprons, and table linens. Some gourmet foods and coffees as well, for a complete gift basket.

Taos Cookery (575-758-5435), 113 Bent Street, Taos. Besides featuring general kitchenware, Taos Cookery also represents many local potters. Among the most eye-catching designs are the multicolored productions of Ojo Sarco Pottery, whose husband-and-wife team creates dishwasher- and microwave-safe pottery emblazed with patterns taken from the New Mexico landscape.

Artwares Contemporary Jewelry (575-758-8850), 129 N. Plaza, Taos. Known for its stylized Zuni bears, executed in precious metals and used to adorn earrings, necklaces, and pins. There is fine lapidary work, and a mix of Native American and contemporary-style jewelry in a reasonable price range.

FX/18 (575-758-8590), 103 Bent Street, Taos. Whimsical sculptures, retro items, silver jewelry, and dining and household wares with a playful touch. The store shows the work of younger cutting-edge local jewelers, as well as locally made soaps, notecards, and gifts.

Taos Blue (575-758-3561), 101 Bent Street, Taos. Saints and angels brush halos and wings in this gift shop specializing in objects with divine inspiration—from pottery to paintings on wood to luscious hand-knit sweaters. The place to find a unique gift by a local craftsperson.

Artemesia (575-737-9800) 117 Bent Street, Taos. Definitely the place to splurge on a handwoven chenille wrap or hand-dyed silk top. It’s all wearable art and fabulous, made by locals and other artists well-selected. Seriously to die for, and the quickest way to look like a knockout at the big event on your calendar.

Francesca’s Clothing and Jewelry Boutique (575-776-8776), 492 NM 150, Arroyo Seco; 1018 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Voted the favorite shop of Taos women, packed with colorful and relaxed pieces to mix and match in unusual ways. Perfect for après-ski fun. Totally geared to the Taos imagination and look, perhaps best characterized as something of a “gypsy-cowgirl-nostalgia princess.”

Spotted Bear (505-758-3040), 127 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos. One of the most extraordinary clothing stores anywhere, Spotted Bear is worth a pilgrimage. Women’s clothing here is exotic and exquisite, from velvet animal-print scarves to amusing flowered hats. There are dresses of hand-painted silk and vintage designer outfits, as well as unique raincoats in rich materials. Choose your era, from a period look to right-now metallic and faux leopard. If you shop here, it’s guaranteed no one else will be wearing anything at all resembling your outfit. And you can do well on the sale racks, especially if you are short in stature.

CHOKULA, LOCATED JUST OFF TAOS PLAZA, IS A MUST-DO FOR CHOCOHOLICS, WITH UNFORGETTABLE HANDMADE SWEETS, MOUSSE, ICE CREAM, AND BEVERAGES

EACH PONY ON THE VENERABLE CAROUSEL KNOWN AS TIOVIVO WAS DECORATED BY A WELL-KNOWN TAOS ARTIST

OptiMysm (575-741-8545), 129 Kit Carson Road, Suite E, Taos. Taos’ metaphysical bookstore has a lovely atmosphere and outstanding service. Go slowly along Kit Carson or you might miss it. The shop is tucked away down the alley.

Somos Bookshop (575.758.0081), 108-B Civic Plaza Drive. A bookstore to get lost in, to be inspired by, to find what you didn’t know you were looking for. An old-fashioned readers’ bookshop that supplies writers with the resources they need to create. Bargain prices for excellent books on every subject. A calendar of readings and book events. Browse on!

Cid’s Food Market (575-758-1148), 623 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Closed Sundays and major holidays. Since Cid’s opened in 1986, owners Cid and Betty Backer have made it a point to purchase the freshest, purest food available. In addition to an array of organic, locally sourced fruits and vegetables and gourmet items, Cid’s offers natural soaps, herbs, vitamins, non-animal-tested cosmetics, and biodegradable cleansers. At the same time, it has a great selection of treats such as Lindt chocolates and locally made salsas. Cid’s has a first-rate meat department, with bison, fresh fish, and the best cuts of lamb, beef, and pork. Those looking for sugar-free or gluten-free products will find them here. It’s also the place to run into everyone you know in town and catch up on the latest. There’s a salad and hot food bar where you can eat in or take out. You can sip your smoothie in the little glassed-in café space out front.

Taos Farmers Market (575-751-7575), Plaza. Runs Mid-May–late September, Saturday mornings 8 AM–12:30 PM A bonanza of local growers, bakers, bee keepers, and crafters.

Taos Market (575-758-7093), Next door to Taos Diner. Delightful potpourri of fresh organic groceries, treats, body care, herbals, local products, and much more.

Arroyo Seco Mercantile (575-776-8806), 488 NM 150, Arroyo Seco. Anyone who loves to shop will adore this 1895 general store stocked with vintage textiles, quilts, toys, gifts, books, and garden ornaments. So much fun it should be illegal!

Weaving Southwest (575- 758-0433), Arroyo Seco. Three decades of hand-dyed locally grown fine yarns and everything the weaver of knitter’s heart could desire. A mecca for craftspeople. Unsurpassed color and quality.