Explorer’s Guide New Mexico 3E

Acoma Pueblo, Crownpoint, Laguna Pueblo, Gallup, Grants, Ramah, Zuni Pueblo

Making a journey to northwest New Mexico is as close as a traveler can get to the mysteries of a civilization that thrived, then vanished, long before Europeans dreamed of setting foot on this continent. The precisely made monumental structures of Chaco Canyon, the restored Great Kiva at Aztec Ruins, and the solstice marker that keeps time as well as a Swiss watch at Salmon Ruins all provoke awe in even the most worldly traveler.

The sight of these magnificent ruins raises more questions than we can answer. Was Chaco Canyon a trading or ceremonial center? A laboratory of ancient astronomy? Or the home of a priestly class? Were its arrow-straight roads, which lead to outliers throughout the Four Corners region, also related to religious traditions? How far did trading extend—to Mesoamerica, to the Andes? Did the inhabitants depart their homes because of drought, illness, or war? The best we can do is to speculate.

Long known as the Anasazi, now referred to as the Ancestral Pueblo, the people who lived here are now believed to be the forbears of contemporary New Mexico Pueblo Indians. Yet in this region one encounters, with the exceptions of Acoma, Laguna, and Zuni, not the Pueblo, but the Navajo, whose reservation extends throughout four states. For those who admire the fine weaving, silver and turquoise jewelry, and sand paintings of the Navajo, there are no better places to see these wares and shop for them than in the trading posts of Gallup and Farmington, or at the monthly Crownpoint Rug Auction.

To savvy fly-fishermen, the San Juan River outside Farmington is a holy grail, which is not to underestimate the attractions of the region for golfers, hikers, cavers, birders, and mountain bikers.

The rich, multilayered history of the exploration of the Southwest is vividly recorded on El Morro, or Inscription Rock, which bears the signs of those who passed by this water source. Petroglyphs, signatures of Spanish conquistadors, of US Calvary, of homesteaders and miners, all tell a centuries-old story. From before the time Coronado passed through in 1540 on his search for the fabled “Seven Cities of Cibola” in his quest for gold and long after, this harsh yet lush high-desert landscape—with its black lava, rich farming land, red buttes, and its resources of wood, coal uranium, natural gas, and oil—has long held out the promise of fortunes to be made.

The name “Cibola” refers to a mythic city. In medieval Europe, a popular legend told of Seven Cities of Antilia located across the Atlantic Ocean. Spanish explorers came here searching for legendary cities, in hopes of discovering the same riches of gold as they had found in the southern hemisphere, among Mayan, Aztec, and Incan cities. In 1539, explorer Cabeza de Vaca first saw Zuni, and his report fueled Coronado’s quest. Zuni was believed to be the smallest of the fabled cities.

In this region you can stand at the point where four states meet, cross the Continental Divide, witness the all-night winter ceremonial of Shalako at Zuni Pueblo, and travel long stretches of the Mother Road, Old Route 66. Many of the sights and experiences that make the West the West are found here. Best of all, these experiences can be had on a personal scale. These places remain true to themselves. They are not overwhelmed with or by tourism, but somehow manage to absorb visitors in a comfortable fashion, still moving at their own pace. While ample selections of amenities are available, this is not an area of high-end lodges, upscale boutiques, or fine dining opportunities. Rather, it is a place to chat with old-timers in a local café, watch sunsets flame the sky, bask in the quiet of really wide open spaces, and, if you are lucky, see a mountain lion leap across the road. It is a place where adventure and discovery are still possible.

images — CHACO CANYON IS ALWAYS WORTH THE JOURNEY

By making a giant loop, it is possible to travel through Ancestral Pueblo country without covering the same territory twice. However, this country may also be traveled conveniently in two sections: Sky City Country, linked by I-40 and anchored by Acoma Pueblo with Gallup as a base destination; and Chaco Country, linked by US 550 and anchored by Chaco Canyon with Farmington and surrounds as a base.

GUIDANCE Sky City Travel Center (505-552-5700), Acomita.

Gallup Convention & Visitors Bureau (505-863-3841), 103 W. Route 66, Gallup.

Gallup/McKinley Country Chamber of Commerce (575-722-2228), 106 W. Route 66, Gallup.

Grants/Cibola County Chamber of Commerce (505-287-4802), 100 N. Iron Avenue, Grants.

Laguna Pueblo (505-552-6654), 22 Capital Road, Laguna Pueblo.

New Mexico Route 66 Association (www.rt66nm.org).

Northwest New Mexico Visitor Center (505-876-2783), 1900 E. Santa Fe Avenue, off I-40 at exit 85, Grants. Open 8–5 MST, 9–6 MDT (summer). This stop is a must-do for trip planning to Chaco, El Morro, El Malpais, and all the area attractions, with an abundance of maps, books, and experience available.

Zuni Tourism (www.zunitourism.com).

GETTING THERE From Albuquerque, take I-40 west 221 miles to Gallup, passing Acoma Pueblo, Laguna Pueblo, and Grants, while following the direction of Route 66.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Cibola General Hospital (505-287-4446), 1016 Roosevelt Avenue, Grants.

Rehobeth McKinley Christian Hospital (575-863-7000), 1901 Redrock Drive, Gallup.

To See

TOWNS AND PUEBLOS Acoma Pueblo, or Sky City, is said to be the oldest continuously inhabited community in North America. Acoma people have lived here for 2,000 years. After exiting I-40 at exit 102, 65 miles west of Albuquerque, follow Indian Route 23 south to Sky City Cultural Center. Tours with native tour guides take you by bus to the top of the 357-foot-high mesa, the original village site of 300 adobe structures, and the remarkable San Esteban del Rey Mission Church. Acoma is well-known for fine pottery, which may sometimes be purchased from the makers on the pueblo tour and during feast days. Feast days and traditional observances open to the public are December 24–28, September 2, August 10, and the first or second weekend in February.

Crownpoint is situated 24 miles north of the Thoreau exit off I-40 on NM 371 and is notable for its second Fri. of the month Navajo rug auction. From here, it is about 40 rough miles farther on unpaved NM 57 to the south entrance of Chaco Canyon.

Gallup claims title as “the Indian jewelry capital of the world,” with over 100 trading posts. It is the home of the annual Intertribal Ceremonial, held in late July or early August, as well as a noted Route 66 stop, and in its heyday, it was a coal mining and railroading center. The town is a gateway to the Navajo Reservation, a base for exploring Canyon de Chelley and Monument Valley, as well as a trading, shopping, medical, and educational center for the Navajo and Zuni.

Grants, a Route 66 stop and formerly “the uranium capital of the world” at the base of Mt. Taylor, is a good place to rest en route to Chaco Canyon and Crownpoint Rug Auction.

Laguna Pueblo. Inhabited as early as 3000 BC, this area has been occupied by Mesa Verde migrants since the 1300s. Laguna was named for a lake that no longer exists and was first mentioned in accounts of Coronado’s 1540 exploration party. Old Laguna Village is now the ceremonial center of several neighboring villages. Feast days are March 19 and September 19. The stone San Jose de la Laguna Mission Church and Convento is a landmark seen from the north side of I-40 about 35 miles west of Albuquerque.

Ramah, chiefly a Mormon and Navajo town with one small museum, located along NM 53, is the home of Ramah Navajo Weavers Association, and Ramah Lake is 2.5 miles northeast of town. The Ramah Museum, open Fri. 1–4, tells the story of the town.

Zuni Pueblo, 32 miles south of Gallup on NM 53. The first Native American village encountered by Coronado on his search for the Seven Cities of Gold, it is believed Zuni was the inspiration for this conquistador legend. Shalako, the annual all-night winter ceremony held late November or early December, is noted for the dancing of the 10-foot-tall Shalakos representing guiding spirits. Today’s Zuni dwellers are known for fine inlay and turquoise needlepoint jewelry, their fetishes carved of semiprecious stones, and, of course, their hand-carved kachina figures. This is the largest of the pueblos, and the people speak their own language, Zuni, unrelated to any Pueblo languages. The restored mission church, Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de la Candelaria de Halona, originally established 1630–66, has life-size restored murals.

HISTORIC LANDMARKS, PLACES, AND SITES Continental Divide. Approximately 170 miles west of Albuquerque on I-40 is the pinnacle of a geological ridge that separates the nation’s waterways. East of the Divide all waters flow east to the Atlantic Ocean, while those west of the Divide flow towards the Pacific.

El Morro National Monument (505-783-4226), 42 miles southeast on NM 53 from Grants. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day. Visitor center open daily October 2–DST 9–5; trails open 9–4. Check for summer hours. El Morro is also known as Inscription Rock for its 2,000 inscriptions and prehistoric petroglyphs. In 1640, Francisco Coronado wrote “Paso por aqui” (I passed by here) in the sandstone formation. It is the pool, the reliable water source beneath the huge boulder, that caused travelers to stop here throughout history. There is a paved 0.5-mile loop trail from the visitor center to Inscription Rock and a two-hour round-trip moderate hike to the mesa-top, which features thirteenth- and fourteenth-century pueblo ruins. $3, under age 16 free.

MUSEUMS A:shiwi A:wan Museum and Heritage Center (505-782-782-4403) www.ashiwi-museum.org), 02 E. Ojo Caliente Road, Zuni. Open Mon.–Fri. 9–5. Closed during religious ceremonies. The heritage center displays artifacts retrieved when the ancient city of Hawikku was excavated in 1920. The center is located on the site of one of Zuni’s first trading posts. Tours, exhibits, and programs about the village and the environment make this a sensible place to begin a visit. Free.

Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway Depot/Gallup Cultural Center (505-863-4131), 201 E. Route 66, Gallup. Open Mon.–Fri. 10–4. This restored depot contains exhibits and a gift shop, plus the Storyteller Museum and Gallery of the Masters. Indian dances are performed nightly at 7 in summer. Free.

Navajo Code Talkers Room (505-722-2228), 106 W. Route 66, Gallup. Open Mon.–Fri. 8:30–5. During World War II, members of the Navajo Nation volunteered for a special mission. They translated intelligence documents into the Navajo language, a code that the Japanese could never break. Memorabilia and photos commemorate their contributions. Free.

New Mexico Mining Museum (505-287-4802), 100 N. Iron Avenue, Grants. Open Mon.–Sat. 9–4. Visit the world’s only underground uranium mining museum, learn about rocks of the region, and ride “the cage” down an actual mineshaft. $3 adults, $2 seniors and children.

Rex Museum (505-863-1363), 300 W. Route 66, Gallup. Open Mon.–Fri. 8–3. Housed in a century-old stone building, the former home of the Rex Hotel, the museum displays memorabilia and history of this railroad and coal mining community. $12 adults, $5 children.

Sky City Cultural Center and Haak’u Museum (505-552-7861). Mesa tours are available daily on the hour May–September 8–6 (last tour 5 PM) and October–April 8–4:30. Please call ahead to confirm hours. The cultural center displays pottery, jewelry, history, and significant individuals of Acoma. Cultural center free. Tours $25 adults, $22 seniors, $17 children, $15 still camera permit.

NATURAL WONDERS Bandera Volcano and Ice Cave (505-783-4303), 25 miles southwest of Grants off NM 53. Open daily from 8 AM until one hour before sunset. Closed November 1–March 1. The temperature in the ice cave is 31 degrees Fahrenheit year-round, kept that way by 20-foot-thick ice on the cave floor. Bandera is the largest of twenty-nine extinct volcanoes in the region. It is a 40-minute hike to the volcano, and a 20-minute hike into the ice cave. Both are reasonably easy, but the ice cave involves some intense stair climbing. There is an old-time trading post on the premises. $12 adults and teens, 10 percent off for seniors and military, $6 ages 6–12.

La Ventana Natural Arch (www.explorenm.com/hikes/LaVentana/). Access from NM 117. La ventana means “the window,” and that is exactly what this 165-foot-wide natural golden sandstone arch appears to be, a window onto the sky. Free.

SCENIC DRIVES Ancient Way (byways.org/explore/states/NM), NM 53 as it parallels the ancient trade route between Acoma and Zuni pueblos and the route originally taken by Coronado. Take exit 81 off I-40 for a 73-mile scenic drive to Zuni Pueblo that leads en route to El Morro, or Inscription Rock. En route, pass the villages of San Rafael, San Mateo, and Cebolleta.

Old Route 66. Driving east on I-40 between Albuquerque and Gallup affords many opportunities to get off the interstate and hop onto original stretches of Route 66, the Mother Road, as author John Steinbeck named it, with several Route 66 markers, such as the Rio Puerco Bridge, in evidence. The road from Chicago to Los Angeles was opened in 1926, then it was realigned in 1937 and subsequently made famous by songs and television shows that celebrated it as a road of freedom and discovery for postwar America.

Zuni Mountain Historic Auto Tour. From Santa Fe Avenue in Grants, go west to NM 53, cross I-40, and go right on Zuni Canyon Road. This tour leads 60 miles as it winds through Zuni Canyon to Agua Fria Valley to the historic town of Sawyer, and loops back to Grants via Bluewater Lake. It follows Forest Service dirt roads to trace the history of logging and railroading in Cibola National Forest with old railroad grades, town sites, and trestle remnants en route.

To Do

BICYCLING For trail maps and information on area races, call 800-448-1240.

Aztec Mountain Biking and Hiking Trails (505-334-9511) includes three main trails: Aztec Trails, Mountain View Trails, and Alien Run. The system starts near the city limits and leads to Hart Canyon, the site of the alleged 1948 UFO crash. Aztec offers almost 30 miles of trails.

WILDER PLACES

Angel Peak Recreation Area (505-564-7600), 30 miles southeast of Farmington on US 550. Take the 6-mile gravel road northeast into the site. No water or services, but accessible camping and picnic areas are available, as are hiking trails and wildlife viewing. Angel Peak is a striking 40-million-year-old, 7,000-foot-high geologic formation crowning 10,000 acres of rugged wilderness in ancient seabed. Fossils and petrified wood are visible in these badlands formations. An amazing perspective on the history of the planet. This area is not recommended for RVs. Free.

Bisti Badlands/De-Na-Zin Wilderness (505-599-8900 or 505-827-4400); www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/wilderness/bisti.html). Roughly 50 miles south of Farmington off NM 371, 2 miles down gravel road #7297. Remote, 42,000 acres administered by the BLM. This wind-sculpted shale and sandstone formation with its fantastic, colorful landforms might well be a journey to the moon. The best formations may be reached by hiking 2 miles east from parking area. Motorized vehicles not permitted. Primitive camping is possible, but no services. Best to visit late spring or fall. Free.

Cabezon Peak (505-761-8700; www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/rio_puerco/cabezon_peak.html). Go west on US 550 onto CR 279, approximately 20 miles northwest of San Ysidro. Continue 12 miles past village of San Luis to Cabezon turnoff onto BLM Road 1114. The pavement ends just beyond San Luis. At intersection of CR 279 and BLM Road 1114, pass the ghost town of Cabezon. Follow 1114 for 2.9 miles to a dirt road that leads to a trailhead. Check road conditions before attempting this journey. Cabezon translates as “big head,” and it is the most prominent volcanic neck in the Mt. Taylor lava fields, rising 8,000 feet above sea level. This is considered a sacred site by Pueblo and Navajo peoples. It is not recommended for children or pets. The trail, only for the fit and the adept, involves some Class 3 climbing and is accessible year-round, making it a popular climb for the well-prepared and the experienced. Caution: Rattlesnakes are active in warmer weather. Primitive recreation. Camping for 14 days or less is okay. Free.

Mount Taylor (5o5-346-3900). An 11,301-foot-high volcano visible from Albuquerque, Mount Taylor is a sacred site known as Turquoise Mountain in Navajo culture and within Cibola National Forest. The Mt. Taylor Quadrathlon is a grueling 44-mile race held every Presidents’ Day weekend, starting from downtown Grants to the summit and back. The race includes biking, running, skiing, and snowshoeing. Trail 77 is a moderate 6-mile round-trip hike near the top—with phenomenal views. Go north on 1st Street in Grants to NM 547 (Lobo Canyon Road) for 13 miles, right on FR 193 for 5 miles to trailhead.

Ojito Wilderness (575-761-8700; www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/wilderness/ojito.html). From Albuquerque, go north on I-25 for 16 miles, then exit on US 550 at second Bernalillo exit. Go 20 miles northwest toward Cuba on US 550. Two miles before San Ysidro, turn left onto Cabezon Road (CR 906), follow the left fork 10 miles to the Ojito Wilderness sign. This remote, austere, quiet place is a roadless area with no facilities, no services, and no water. The 11,000 acres are full of steep canyons and rugged cliffs to challenge experienced hikers. Horseback riding and primitive camping are allowed in this increasingly popular exploration site. You might see fossils, petroglyphs, petrified trees, and even seashells. Free.

Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary (505-775-3032; wildspiritwolfsanctuary.org), 378 Candy Kitchen Road, Ramah. Go 2 miles past El Morro on NM 53 (approximately 50 miles southeast of Grants), left on BIA 125 for 8 miles, right on BIA 120 for 4 miles; sanctuary on left. Open Tues.–Sun. Closed Mondays. Guided tours at 11, 12:30, 2, 3:30. Meet wolf-dogs and wolf captives born in the Zuni Mountains, as well as wolf and wolf-dog rescues. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $4 children, under age 7 free. $15 camping. $10 guided tour.

BOATING See the state parks under Green Space.

FISHING Ramah Lake (no phone), 2.5 miles northeast of Ramah. Fishing, boating, and picnicking.

San Juan River/Quality Waters (505-632-2194; www.sanjuanriver.com/RiverUpper.htm), 26 miles northeast of Aztec off NM 173 and NM 511. Year-round fishing in 12 miles of open water. Sought-after trophy trout fly-fishing in the waters west of Navajo Lake Dam brings fishermen to the San Juan to catch the big ones. But those big ones swimming around your waders are wily, as they have been caught and released so many times. Enormous rainbow trout that feed well makes this one of America’s top 10 trout fishing waters. A section of the river for 6 miles south of the dam flows through a magical, scenic sandstone canyon. There are four wheelchair-accessible fishing piers along the river and an easy hiking trail that runs for 1.5 miles along the north side of the San Juan River. Quality waters have special restrictions. Free.

HIKING Pyramid Rock, in Red Rock Park. At the summit, one can see 50 miles on a clear day. The 3-mile round-trip takes you through amazing rock formations, with a summit elevation of 7,487 feet. Church Rock Trail begins at Outlaw Trading Post parking lot, with great views of Church Rock Spires. From Gallup, go 6 miles east on Route 66/NM 118. Turn north onto NM 566 for 0.5 mile. Turn left into Red Rock Park, follow the signs. Check with the visitor center for maps.

Zuni-Acoma Trail in El Malpais National Monument traverses the Continental Divide, which stretches from Canada to the southern border of the United States. You need strong shoes to hike from cairn to cairn across the lava of this ancient trade route, a segment of an old Indian trail connecting Acoma and Zuni pueblos. Bring lots of water for this lifetime hike. It will take 5 or 6 hours and is quite strenuous, ranging from easy to moderate to difficult.

MOUNTAIN BIKING Farmington Lake has many trails through all types of terrain that can be accessed off the Road Apple Trail.

Farmington Trails (farmingtonnm.org/choose-your-journey/outdoor-adventures/hiking/) include Road Apple Trail, behind San Juan College, with sandy washes and arroyos, hilly jumps, and steep climbs; Kinsey’s Ridge, at the end of Foothills Drive, with 6 miles of rolling hills and great views; and Pinon Mesa, 3 miles north of Main Street on NM 170, with a trailhead marked by a large cottonwood on the west side of the highway.

High Desert Trail System. A mountain bike trail on the high mesas northwest of Gallup has a stacked loop trail with trailheads near Gamerco and Mentmore, former coal mines. To get to Gamerco, go 2 miles north of I-40 on US 491, and left at Chino Loop traffic signal; the trailhead is on the left just after the curve. The trail heads west for 2.25 miles around the mesa top with expansive viewpoints. Or turn right at Six Flags, continuing on to Second Mesa. The third mesa is higher to the south. Challenging.

See Zuni Mountain Historic Auto Tour under To See, “Scenic Drives.” Many of these old logging roads along the way are suitable for mountain biking.

SNOW SPORTS Best to check out opportunities at nearby Purgatory Resort (www.purgatoryresort.com/) and Wolf Creek Ski Area (wolfcreekski.com/).

WINERIES Wines of the San Juan Tasting Room (505-632-0879), 689 Oso Ride Route, Grants. Open Mon. and Wed.–Sat. 10–6, Sun. 2–6. Closed Tuesdays. Find this rustic tasting room 6 miles below Navajo Lake State Park on NM 511 at Turley. The San Juan region is the ideal microclimate to produce these rich, fruity wines.

Lodging

BED & BREAKFASTS, INNS, AND MOTELS images Cimarron Rose, Zuni Mountain Bed & Breakfast (800-856-5776; www.cimarronrose.com), 689 Oso Ridge Road, 30 miles southwest of Grants on NM 53. To preserve your solitude and privacy, breakfast is delivered to your room. Local artists display their wares for sale in this “green” retreat located on the Great Divide. A Zuni Mountain Inn. Each of the three rooms has its own bath. $195–210.

El Rancho Hotel (505-863-9311), 1000 E. Route 66, Gallup. One block south of I-40 at exit 22. With twenty-four rooms, each named for a movie star, and the mezzanine decorated with black-and-white photos of all the stars that stayed here while shooting movies, this 1937 hotel is the epitome of Hollywood gone western nostalgia. The hot pink neon beckons you to stop, and the pool, lounge, and quite decent restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner make this the top choice for a Gallup stay. Most of the rooms are on the small side; you can stay, however, for a not unreasonable price, in the Presidential Suite (a.k.a. the Ronald Reagan Room). The open lobby with curving wooden staircases on either side, decorated in Navajo rugs and rustic western furnishings, with a floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace, is one of the most welcoming sights along the road. $75–120.

The Inn at Halona (505-782-4547; www.halona.com), 23 Pie Mesa Road, Zuni. Located in the middle Zuni Pueblo in the historic 1940 home of trader Bernard J. Vanden Wagen and operated by his granddaughter, Elaine, this eight-room bed & breakfast imparts a sense of a faraway adventure, in comfort. Several of the rooms are graced with comfortably furnished private patios. Breakfast is included. $85.

RANCHES AND LODGES Apache Canyon Ranch B&B Country Inn (505-377-7925), 4 Canyon Drive, Laguna. Bordered by Indian lands, not far from Old Route 66, the ranch’s views and the peace and quiet are unmatched. It’s somewhat surprising to find an upscale lodging all the way out here, but there you are. The inn sits on several acres, and the main quarters has rooms and courtyards, a grand parlor for tea, a six-hole putting green, and a guest cottage with a whirlpool tub and kiva fireplace. Of course, the breakfast is gourmet quality, and dinner, should you choose to remain on the premises rather than zip over to the Route 66 Casino, may be prepared on request. $99–$250.

images Z Lazy B Mountain Retreat (888-488-5600), Fort Wingate. Open year-round, weather permitting. The descendant of the original homesteaders on this land now lives here with her husband, and together they raise horses in this somewhat desolate and wild Zuni Mountain area that was formerly a busy logging territory. There are five comfortably and completely furnished log cabins, nothing shabby here, each sleeping eight to ten people, each with kitchen, bath, lounging, and private areas, and guests may choose to have the staff cook for them or prepare their own meals. A hearty meat and potatoes freshly cooked breakfast is included, at any rate. The lodge is also known for horseback riding, offering trail, pony, and wagon rides May–October. And they will cook all meals for you, on request. $120 night double occupancy, $15 each extra person.

CABINS AND CAMPING El Morro RV Park & Cabins & Ancient Way Café (505-783-4612), 4018 NM 53, Ramah. Open year-round. Just down the way from El Morro National Monument are cozy cabins in the pines at the base of San Lorenzo Mesa with sleeping accommodations for four, and full hookup RV sites in a pet-friendly place with free Wi-Fi. The friendly café serves home-cooked breakfast, lunch, and dinner and is a gathering place where locals mingle with visitors for plenty of storytelling. The food is healthy, delicious, and sometimes gourmet. Perfection! $84–$99 cabin; $15 tent site.

Where to Eat

DINING OUT Don Diego’s Restaurant and Lounge (505-722-5517), 801 W. Route 66, Gallup. Open Mon.–Sat. 8–9. Closed Sundays. B, L, D. Nightlife, such as it is, may be found here, along with pretty tasty New Mexican food and good hot red chile. Inexpensive.

EATING OUT Eagle Cafe (505-863-2233), 220 W. Route 66, Gallup. Open Mon.–Sat. 9–5. Closed Sundays. B, L, D. You can still hear the trains rolling in on the tracks across Old 66. Now a for-real Mexican restaurant. Inexpensive.

images images Earl’s Family Restaurant (505-863-4201), 1400 E. Route 66, Gallup. Open daily. B, L, D. Rightly called “Gallup’s living room,” this is the place to eat reasonably priced green-chile-smothered enchiladas, but if you’re not accustomed to the local cuisine, plenty of real mashed potatoes and gravy are served with popular daily specials of fried chicken and meat loaf. Shop while you eat, as vendors circulate showing off their wares. If you don’t care to be bothered, you can get a sign indicating so from the management. If you have time for only one meal in Gallup, by all means eat at this 40-year-old family restaurant. Inexpensive.

images Virgie’s Restaurant & Lounge (505-863-4845), 2720 W. Route 66, Gallup. Closed Sundays. Open Mon.–Sat. 7 AM–9 PM. B, L, D. In the glow of Virgie’s neon, feast on enchiladas in true Old 66 splendor. Virgie’s is at least as much a roadside institution as it is a restaurant serving steaks and Mexican food. Virgie’s beef stew and the chico steak smothered in green chile and cheese are favorites. Or go for the crème de la crème, the crispy chicken taquitos. This fine family restaurant started serving its homemade pie around 1960. Love Virgie’s! Inexpensive.

Ancient Way Cafe (505-783-4612), 4018 Ice Cave Road/Highway 53, El Morro. Open daily 9–5 daily. B, L, D. Exceptional food where you least expect to find it in this wonderful roadside cafe. Varied menu of healthy options, dinner specials. Salads, omelets, barbecue, pan-fried trout, creative entrees. Inexpensive.

Entertainment

Summer Theater Series in Lions Wilderness Amphitheater (877-599-1148; www.fmtn.org/sandstone). June 20–August 2. Repertory Theater under the stars in a natural golden sandstone arena. A most pleasant venue for light and family-oriented productions. $10 adults, $7 seniors, $5 children.

Totah Theater (505-327-4145), 315 W. Main, Farmington. A renovated 1948 movie house downtown. The facility books performances by local theater groups, such as Theatre Ensemble and traveling performers. Movies, music, smorgasbord of events.

Selective Shopping

Old School Gallery (505-369-4047), 53 NM 46. Open Thurs.–Sun. 11–5. An enterprise of the El Morro Area Arts Council, here you can find current exhibits and work of local artists in diverse media for sale. Lectures, workshops, cook-offs, tarot classes, yoga, Zumba, and special events and celebrations also go on at this gallery. A busy schedule. Call for exact directions and schedule of events.

Richardson’s Trading Co. (505-722-4762), 222 W. Route 66, Gallup. Open Mon.–Sat. 9–5. The selection of the best turquoise, coral, and silver Navajo and Zuni jewelry; Navajo rugs; sand paintings; pottery; and old pawn fills every nook and cranny of this creaky trading post established in 1913. As much a museum as a store. The staff is patient and knowledgeable, and Richardson’s is as reliable a place (with fair prices) to make a purchase as you can find. There are treasures here at all price levels. Be prepared to take your time—it’s difficult to choose!

Perry Nunn Trading Company (505-863-5249), 1710 S. 2nd Street, Gallup. Fabulous array of native work arranged by artist. Price range to accommodate all budgets. Reliable. Full disclosure: I collect silver work by Alex Sanchez here. The store itself is a work of art.

Tanner’s Indian Arts (5905-863-6017), 237 W. Coal Street. By appointment only. Fourth generation trader is a must-stop of serious collectors and those who would aspire to become so.