Explorer’s Guide New Mexico 3E

Capitan, Fort Sumner, Lincoln, Carrizozo, Tularosa, Alamogordo, Ruidoso, Roswell, Cloudcroft, Clovis

Where else can you time-travel between such wildly varied eras as the Old West of Billy the Kid and the Roswell crash of 1947? Between attractions, you have a lot of space, which you will need as there are so many interesting sights and so much information to absorb. It is hot and dry year-round, with few exceptions, such as the historic district known as the “49 blocks” of Tularosa. The mountains of Mescalero, Ruidoso, and Cloudcroft also provide a refreshing break from the desert. Rich in history and natural marvels, this part of New Mexico is an essential tour for the dedicated roadmeister.

GUIDANCE Alamogordo Chamber of Commerce (575-437-6120; www.alamogordo.com), 1301 N. White Sands Boulevard, Alamogordo.

Capitan Chamber of Commerce (575-354-2273; www.villageofcapitan.com; www.smokeybearpark.com), 443 W. Smokey Bear Boulevard, Capitan.

Carrizozo Chamber of Commerce (575-648-2732; www.townofcarrizozo.org), P.O. Box 567, 401 8th Street, Carrizozo.

Cloudcroft Chamber of Commerce (575-682-2733; www.coolcloudcroft.com), 1001 James Canyon Highway, Cloudcroft.

Clovis/Curry County Chamber of Commerce (575-763-3435; www.clovisnm.org), 105 E. Grand Street, Clovis.

Fort Sumner/DeBaca County Chamber of Commerce (575-355-7705; www.ftsumnerchamber.com), 707 N. 4th Street, Fort Sumner.

Roswell Chamber of Commerce (575-623-5695; www.roswellnm.com), 131 W. 2nd Street, Roswell.

Roswell Convention & Visitors Bureau (575-624-7704), 912 N. Main, Roswell.

Ruidoso Valley Chamber of Commerce/Visitor Center (575-257-7395; www.ruidosonow.com), 720 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso.

GETTING THERE To get to southeast New Mexico, take US 380 east off I-25 at San Antonio, 13 miles south of Socorro. Continue east on US 380 through Carrizozo to Capitan and Lincoln and on to the Hondo Valley to Roswell; or south on US 54/70 past Three Rivers into Tularosa, Alamogordo, and White Sands. From Tularosa, follow US 70 north to Mescalero, Ruidoso, and San Patricio, then east to Roswell. From Roswell, go south on US 285 through Artesia to Carlsbad.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY De Baca Family Practice Clinic (575-355-2414), 546 N. 10th Street, Fort Sumner.

Eastern New Mexico Medical Center (575-622-2259), 405 W. Country Club Road, Roswell.

Gerald Champion Regional Medical Center (575-439-6100), 2669 N. Scenic Drive, Alamogordo.

Lincoln County Medical Center (575-257-8200), 211 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso.

Presbyterian Healthcare Services Carrizozo Healthcare Center (575-648-2317), 710 Avenue E, Carrizozo.

Sacramento Mountain Medical Center (Presbyterian Medical Services) (575-682-2542), 74 James Canyon Highway, Cloudcroft.

images — PLAY “FIND THE BURRO” IN THE CROSSROADS TOWN OF CARRIZOZO, WHICH HAS SPROUTED A FEW INTERESTING GALLERIES AND CAFéS

To See

TOWNS Alamogordo lies at the junction of US 54/70 and US 82. The home of Holloman Air Force Base and one of the region’s larger towns at pop. 30,000, with a variety of restaurants, chain motels, and a shopping mall, Alamogordo makes a good overnight stop or a base for exploring White Sands. Here find New Mexico International Space Museum, IMAX Theater, and children’s activities, as well as the Flickinger Center for the Performing Arts.

Capitan, where US 380 meets NM 246 and NM 48, makes an attractive lunch stop where kids will love the Smokey Bear Restaurant, either before or after a tour of the Smokey Bear Historical Park.

Carrizozo, at the junction of US 380 and US 54, at the gateway to the Valley of Fires State Park, has a homegrown art scene and cafés worth checking out. A drive around the streets surrounding downtown reveals a growing number of updated homes. The “Burro Trail” reveals colorful sculptures perched on rooftops and peering around corners.

Cloudcroft. Twenty-six miles east of Alamogordo on US 82, is high in the Sacramento Mountains at 9,100 feet. Originally founded as a railroad town, early on it became a cool vacation escape for El Pasoans. With its superb Lodge at Cloudcroft, unique shops, and galleries on Burro Street, a plethora of B&Bs and other accommodations, tiny Cloudcroft is the perfect base for hiking the Lincoln National Forest and enjoying winter snow sports or a cool getaway in the summer.

Clovis, 67 miles east of Fort Sumner on US 60, named for the French king who converted to Christianity, has roots deep in railroading and agriculture. It is today a superb place for antiquing and for appreciating Pueblo Deco architecture and rock-and-roll history. The home of Cannon Air Force Base, Clovis has ample modern amenities, shopping malls, and motels.

Fort Sumner, 41 miles southeast of Santa Rosa on US 84, holds the legendary gravesite of Billy the Kid. The pleasant little town, which feels as if it has stepped back in time, also has museums and shopping opportunities for Kid souvenirs and memorabilia. Fort Sumner State Monument, where Navajo and Apache people were confined during the 1860s following the Long March from their destroyed homelands in Canyon de Chelly, with the Bosque Redondo Memorial to that epoch sited here.

Lincoln, 46 miles southeast of Carrizozo on US 380, is the quiet, well-preserved site of the Lincoln County War, essentially a rivalry between mercantile factions that indelibly marked New Mexico and western history. Step into that history here at the Lincoln County Courthouse, where Billy the Kid slipped through handcuffs to make his daring escape, and learn the entire story, which is well documented at the Lincoln State Monument museum.

Roswell, at the crossroads of US 285, US 70, and US 380, a major stop on the Goodnight-Loving and Chisum cattle trails of the Old West, has reinvented itself several times. After losing Walker Air Force Base in 1967, the town diversified into a thriving hub of business, education, and tourism. Dairies replaced many cattle operations, and the old downtown is filled with UFO museums and shops marketing UFO-themed curiosities and trinkets. Best of all, the Roswell Museum exhibits a must-see collection of Southwestern artists, in particular Roswell native Peter Hurd and his wife, Henriette Wyeth, whose landscapes and portraits of their Hondo Valley neighbors are seldom seen elsewhere.

Ruidoso, 32 miles northeast of Tularosa on US 70, famous for Ruidoso Downs, home of the country’s richest Quarter horse race, and a bustling community filled with shops, restaurants, and condominiums. In addition to tourists, the town, whose name translates to “noisy water,” for the stream, which runs through town, attracts retirees and vacation homeowners. There’s plenty to do here, with abundant golfing, arts activities, hiking, shopping, horseback riding, and fishing opportunities.

Tularosa, at the junction of US 54 and US 70, is as charming an oasis as exists in New Mexico. Giant pomegranates, poplars, and sycamores sink deep roots into the ditch banks that run throughout the historic district. This district, known as “the 49,” was the original town site established by nineteenth-century pioneers who moved here from Mesilla after their farmlands were flooded. Following the Civil War, Union soldiers of the California Column settled here, married local women, and built homes, many of which have been restored. The variety of vernacular architecture is well worth a stroll. Tularosa has a few eateries but lacks lodgings.

GHOST TOWNS White Oaks. Three miles north of Carrizozo on US 54, 9 miles east on NM 349. A full-fledged ghost town, these quiet remains of an 1880s gold mining boomtown have a historic cemetery, a School House Museum and Miners Museum that are catch as catch can for being open, and the No Scum Allowed Saloon, the place most likely to be open, with a shuttle that runs to Carrizozo. The town has been for some time experiencing a slow-motion revival, with artists occupying the old houses.

HISTORIC LANDMARKS, PLACES, AND SITES images Alameda Park Zoo (575-439-4290), 1321 N. White Sands Boulevard, Alamogordo. Open daily 9–5. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day. Established in 1898, this is the oldest zoo in the Southwest, with 300 animals of ninety species. $2.50 adults and children over age 12, $1.50 seniors, children under age 12, under age 2 free.

Blackdom (no phone), 18 miles south of Roswell, 8 miles west of Dexter. This all-black homesteading town founded in 1911 by 20 families was led by Francis Marion Boyer, who walked from Georgia to New Mexico, hoping to establish a self-sustaining community. Blackdom was abandoned in the 1920s. Very little remains on the site. Free.

Bosque Redondo Memorial at Fort Sumner State Monument (575-355-2573), 3 miles east of Fort Sumner, NM 60/84, 3.5 miles south on Billy the Kid Road. Open Wed.–Sun. 8:30–4:30. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays and major holidays. This moving memorial commemorates and honors Navajo and Apache forced from their homelands in 1864 in the “Long March.” Cultural and historic programs are presented throughout the year. A museum designed by Navajo architect David Sloan and an interpretive trail cast light on this tragic period in US history. $3 adults, children age 16 and under free, Sunday free to New Mexico residents with ID, Wednesday free to New Mexico seniors with ID.

Fort Stanton Historic Site (575-354-0341; www.museumofnewmexico.org). 104 Kit Carson Road, Fort Stanton. East on US 380 from Capitan, right on NM 220. Open daily 10–4. Established in 1855, abandoned during the Civil War, and reoccupied after the Civil War by Kit Carson, this was the base of the Buffalo Soldiers of the Ninth Cavalry. After it was decommissioned in 1896, it served as a TB hospital, later on, it was an internment camp for World War II German POWs and Japanese. A Merchant Marine cemetery is on the site. Living history programs during the summer months. The big annual event is Fort Stanton Live, the second Saturday in July, with Civil War re-enactments, lectures, and food trucks. Admission by donation.

Goodnight Loving Trail (no phone). Originally spanning 2,000 miles between Texas and Wyoming, this cattle trail was blazed in 1866 by Charles Goodnight and Oliver Loving. The New Mexico portion follows the Pecos River to Fort Sumner.

images Smokey Bear Historical Park (575-354-2748), 118 Smokey Bear Boulevard, Capitan. Open daily 9–4:30. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Opened in 1979 in honor of the bear cub found with burned paws after a disastrous 1950 forest fire in the Capitan Mountains, which became the symbol of forest fire prevention. After living at the National Zoo in Washington, DC, Smokey was returned to his home and buried here. Presentations and exhibits on ecology, forest health, and fire prevention, plus a playground, picnic area, and the original Capitan train depot highlight the park. Smokey Bear Days are held the first weekend in May. $5 per vehicle.

Three Rivers Petroglyph National Recreation Site (575-585-3457), 28 miles south of Carrizozo off US 54. East 5 miles from US 54 at Three Rivers on County Road B30; 455 Three Rivers Road. Open daily April–October 8–7, October–April 8–5. Closed Christmas. The mystery of this place is best perceived during the fall, when you are most likely to have it to yourself. The half-mile gently inclining trail contains outstanding examples of 21,000 petroglyphs, or rock carvings, carved by the vanished Mogollon people 1,000 years ago. Another short trail leads to a partially excavated prehistoric village. Caution: Stay on the path as rattlesnakes really do live here—beware. $5 per vehicle.

images Toy Train Depot (575-437-2855), 1991 N. White Sands Boulevard, Alamogordo. Open Wed.–Thurs. 12–5; Fri.–Sat. 10–5; Sun. 2–5. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day. Ride the toy train 2.5 miles around Alameda Park (departures every 30 minutes) and visit the century-old depot with a gift and model train shop. More than 1,200 miles of model train track and toy trains on display, plus historic railroad artifacts to intrigue train buffs. Adjacent Kid’s Kingdom Park is a great place for children to play and let off steam. Admission $5; train rides $5. Bargain rate is $8 for both museum and train ride. Age 3 and under free.

Trinity Site (505-319-6448), 12 miles east of San Antonio on US 380, 5 miles south through Stallion Range Center. Open at Stallion Gate first Saturday April and October only, 8–2. At the north end of White Sands Missile Range is ground zero, where the first atomic bomb was detonated on July 16, 1945. Free.

Tularosa Basin Museum of History (575-434-4438), 1301 N. White Sands Boulevard, Alamogordo. The joys of the local on display here, right next to the visitor center, plus research center and photo archive. Mon.–Sat., 10–4. Free.

MUSEUMS images Billy the Kid Museum (575-355-2380), 1435 E. Sumner Avenue, Fort Sumner. Open May 15–September daily 8:30–5, October–May 15 Mon.–Sat. 8:30–5, closed Sundays. Learn about the Old West, including views of a variety of Billy the Kid memorabilia. $5 adults, $4 seniors age 62+, $3 children ages 7–15, under age 6 free.

Carrizozo Heritage Museum (575-937-6555), 103 12th Street, Carrizozo. March–November, Thurs.–Sun., 10–2. Nice gift shop. major holidays. Emphasis here is on the town’s railroad history and local ranching. Free.

images Hubbard Museum of the American West (575-378-4142; www.hubbardmuseum.org), 26301 Highway 70 W. Ruidoso Downs. Thurs.–Mon. 9–5. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. An affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution. Collection of over 10,000 western items. Exhibits of western and cowboy artifacts, saddles, wagons, Pony Express rig, Kid’s Corral, and the Anne C. Stradling collection of antiques, horse equipment, and memorabilia. Includes the Racehorse Hall of Fame, with exhibits dedicated to Triple Crown Champions, All American Futurity winners, women in racing, as well as memorabilia from world champions. $7 adults, $5 seniors and military, $2 children ages 6–16, under age 6 free.

images International UFO Museum & Research Center (575-625-9495), 114 N. Main Street, Roswell. Open daily 9–5. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Expanded hours during Roswell UFO Festival, first week of July. Find in this vast warehouse-like space the Roswell Incident Timeline, eyewitness testimonies, photographs, maps, and newspaper and radio reports that endeavor to give a complete account of the purported UFO incident that occurred here in July 1947. This center also contains the largest and most comprehensive collection of UFO-related information in the world, as well as records of those who have experienced sightings, abductions, or actual contact. $5 adults, $3 military and seniors, $2 children ages 5–15, age 4 and under free.

Lincoln State Monument (575-653-4025), 12 miles east of Capitan on US 380, Lincoln. Open daily 9–5. Old Lincoln Town’s main street—actually, its only street—is lined with eleven buildings of stone and adobe that make up this National Historic Landmark. Here history seems very close at hand, because this site looks as it did during the heyday of Billy the Kid and Pat Garrett, and just as it did when the Lincoln County War raged during 1878–1881. The Old Lincoln County Courthouse Museum gives some context, with information on Hispanic settlers, Buffalo soldiers, major players in the Lincoln County War, and the politics of the time. $5, under age 16 free. Sun. free to New Mexico residents, Wed. free to New Mexico seniors.

images New Mexico Museum of Space History (575-437-2840). 3198 NM 2001, Alamogordo. Open daily 9–5. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Five stories of space history include artifacts, models, and exhibits celebrating space voyage. The Stapp Air and Space Park displays actual rockets; the International Space Hall of Fame and the Tombaugh Education Center as well as the New Horizons Dome Theater and Planetarium, the first of its kind in the world to create a total immersion experience intriguing to children and adults. $7 adults, $5 seniors and military, $4 children ages 4–12, under age 4 free.

Roswell Museum and Art Center (575-624-6744), 100 W. 11th Street, Roswell. Open Tues.–Sat. 9–5; Sun., holidays 1–5. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The term “regional” in no way diminishes the fine exhibits of contemporary and classic artists of the West shown here. Permanent exhibits of native Peter Hurd and wife Henriette Wyeth are staggering, while works of such renowned artists as Fritz Scholder and Georgia O’Keeffe appear regularly. The Goddard Rocket Museum is included. Free.

Robert H. Goddard Planetarium (575-624-6744), 912 N. Main, Roswell. The planetarium has science exhibits, including Goddard’s rockets as well as star shows and hands on exhibits to foster understanding of space phenomena. Call for changing schedule of full dome planetarium shows and hours. Has recently undergone a complete renovation and shows are spectacular! $5, $3 children 4–15 and seniors and Roswell residents.

NATURAL WONDERS Sierra Blanca. At just under 12,000 feet, this imposing mountain is a snow-capped beacon throughout most of southeast New Mexico.

White Sands National Monument (575-479-6124 www.nps.gov/whsa), 19955 US 70, 15 miles west of Alamogordo on US 70. Closed Christmas Day. Open daily Memorial Day–September 2, 7 AM–9 PM; winter hours 7 AM–sunset. Dunes Drive is 17 paved miles of the 300 miles of pure white gypsum dunes. This place’s vastness and beauty make it seem like a moonscape here on Earth. You can get out of the car, hike, and play in the dunes. Reservations required for monthly Full Moon Nights and accompanying programs. The gift shop is vast, and the bookstore has a rich selection of Southwest and nature reading. $5 per person over age 15; under age 15 free. Ticket good for seven days.

SCENIC DRIVES Billy the Kid National Scenic Byway (575-378-5318; www.billybyway.com). Follows NM 48; NM 220; US 70/380 for 84.2 miles. The Billy the Kid National Scenic Byway Visitor Center, next to the Hubbard Museum of the American West in Ruidoso Downs, is the best place to orient the trip and make the most of it with maps and brochures. The byway links Ruidoso, Lincoln, Fort Stanton, and the pleasant green Hondo Valley. The entire area was Billy’s stomping ground.

WINERIES Arena Blanca Winery (800-368-3081), 7320 US 54 Expressway, Alamogordo, 6 miles north of Alamogordo on US 54. In combination with McGinn’s Country Store at the Pistachio Tree Ranch, Arena Blanca offers free wine tastings plus free pistachio samples. Located on a 111-acre pistachio orchard.

Tularosa Vineyards (575-585-2260), 2 miles north of Tularosa on US 54 at 23 Coyote Canyon. Tasting room open Mon.–Sat. 9–5. Sun. noon–5. Taste award-winning wines made from grapes specially acclimated to New Mexico. This winery specializes in premium reds and highly drinkable whites and blushes. Tours by appointment. Please call ahead if you plan to visit.

To Do

BICYCLING AND WALKING Spring River Recreation Trail (575-624-6700), Spring River Park, 1101 W. 4th Street, Roswell, offers 5.5 miles of paved, gentle, and scenic hiking and biking.

BIRDING See the state parks under Green Space.

BOATING See the state parks under Green Space.

FISHING Bonito Lake. Take a left off NM 48 onto NM 37, 1.5 miles to “Y,” then left to Bonito Dam to a man-made lake. Well stocked during fishing season, with easy to moderate hiking trails and camping areas. Free.

Lake Van is 15 miles southeast of Roswell on NM 256/NM 2, in the hamlet of Dexter. Cool, pleasant Lake Van has lazy fishing, some camping, and swimming, or just picnicking. Free.

Rio Peñasco (505-687-3352), 37 miles east of Cloudcroft on US 82 is the southernmost spring creek in United States.

GOLF Clovis Municipal Golf Course (575-769-7871), 1200 N. Norris Street, Clovis. Nine-hole public course. Very affordable.

Desert Lakes Golf Course (575-437-0290), south end of Alamogordo on US 54. Open year-round. This is an attractive suburban municipal course in the Sacramento foothills with elevated greens and water hazards. Very affordable.

Inn of the Mountain Gods (800-446-2963), Carrizo Canyon Road, Mescalero. Elegant eighteen-hole public course. $40–135.

The Links at Sierra Blanca (575-258-5330), 105 Sierra Blanca Drive, Ruidoso Downs. Open year-round, weather permitting. This challenging, highly rated 18-hole spikeless Scottish-style course was designed by PGA Seniors Tour player Jim Colbert. $35–80.

The Lodge at Cloudcroft (575-682-2089), 1 Corona Place, Cloudcroft. Open April 1–October. High-altitude, mountain bluegrass fairways, and Scottish rules of play make a memorable nine holes. $28–$34.

HIKING Dog Canyon National Recreational Trail (575-437-8284), Oliver Lee Memorial State Park. A 5.5-mile strenuous hike, with panoramic views of Tularosa Basin, Lincoln National Forest, and White Sands, was an ancient Native American Trail. The trail rises about 3,100 feet. Bring water and hiking stick. $6.

Sacramento Rim National Recreation Trail, south of Cloudcroft. Follows rim of Sacramento Mountains 14 miles. Moderate hike. Sprawling views of Tularosa Basin 5,000 feet below.

Cloud Climbing Trestle Trails (Cloud-Climbing Rail Trail) (575-682-2551). The Rails-to-Trails Association has created all levels of hiking paths out of the overgrown railroad beds out of use since trains last toted logs out of the Sacramento Mountains in 1947.

HORSE RACING Ruidoso Downs Race Track (575-378-4431), 2 miles north of Ruidoso on US 70. Open Memorial Day–Labor Day. This track has the reputation as top Quarter horse racetrack in United States, and the richest Quarter horse race, the All American Futurity, where instant millionaires are made, runs Labor Day Weekend. Casino open daily.

HORSEBACK RIDING Chippeway Riding Stables (575-682-2565), 602 Cox Canyon Highway, Cloudcroft. Call for prices and hours.

ICE SKATING James Sewell Ice Rink (575-682-4585), 751 James Canyon Highway,Cloudcroft. Open daily during the season, weather permitting. Skate rentals, and later on warm up with hot cocoa by the inside fireplace.

MOUNTAIN BIKING Rim Trail (575-682-1229), Cloudcroft. Access this steep, difficult 13.5-mile trail, T105, which parallels Sunspot Scenic Byway part of the way for views of the Tularosa Basin. Visit Altitudes, the local mountain bike shop, for detailed trail maps and to explore the possibilities.

SNOW SPORTS Ski Apache (575-464-3600), 6 miles north of Ruidoso on NM 48. Left on Ski Run Road. Owned and operated by the Mescalero Apache Tribe on the Lincoln National Forest; the stated goal is to “provide the best ski experience for all ages and abilities.” Both skiers and snowboarders of all levels find terrain variety on fifty-five trails served by eleven lifts. Lines are rare; elevations between 9,600 and 11,500 feet provide abundant snow that makes for a 180-inch annual average. Children’s programs, rentals, and lessons. Moderate.

images Ski Cloudcroft (575-682-2333), 19201/2 US 82, Cloudcroft. With 21 trails at all levels, three lifts, tubing, snowboarding, and a ski school on 68 acres at 9,000 feet, this tiny area could be just right for the whole family. $20–45.

images Triple M Snowplay Area (575-682-2205), south of Cloudcroft on Sunspot Scenic Highway. Snowmobile rentals, tubing with a lift.

Lodging

BED & BREAKFASTS, INNS, AND MOTELS Fite Ranch B&B (575-838-0958; www.fiteranchbedandbreakfast.com), 7.5 miles east of San Antonio exit off I-25 on US 380. The Fite Ranch B&B is located on a working ranch that has been in existence since the 1930s. In 2002, ranchers Dewey and Linda Brown purchased it from original owner Evelyn Fite and the place is now run with love and care by their family. A home-cooked full and filling breakfast is served every day. The B&B is furnished with antique western decor with a touch of the Southwest. Each of the five lodgings includes at least one bedroom, a kitchen, a personal living area, and a private bath. The ranch borders the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge and is a favorite of birders. Weekly and monthly rates available. Two-night minimum. $125.

images images Smokey Bear Motel (575-354-2253), 316 Smokey Bear Boulevard, Capitan. The convenient Smokey Bear Motel has been operating here for 40 years in this, the final resting place of the original Smokey Bear. The clean, comfortable ersatz-rustic motel has some rooms that include refrigerator and microwave. The Smokey Bear Restaurant, with vintage photos of Smokey, on the premises serves hearty breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with such specials as chicken-fried steak and beef stew seven days a week. The motel is located 13 miles from Ski Apache. RV parking, too. No pets, unfortunately. $60.

images Wortley Hotel (575-653-4300), US 380. Lincoln. Open year-round. So much fun! “No Guests Gunned Down in Over 100 Years” is the motto here in this 1874 creaky adobe building formerly owned by Sheriff Pat Garrett. Western rusticity and a total immersion in the Wild West that was Lincoln County. History comes alive and lives on here. Delicious, cooked to order complimentary gourmet breakfast included. Dietary preferences honored. $120. (If you can’t stay the night, at least try to sit down for a meal. Taco Tuesday is popular with the locals and these tacos have been proclaimed “Best in the Southwest” by many publications. B, L Thurs.–Sun.)

LODGES AND RANCHES Burnt Well Guest Ranch (575-347-2668; www.burntwellguestranch.com), 399 Chesser Road, Roswell. Thirty-five miles southwest of Roswell. Call for exact directions. If you’re looking for a “ranch vacation,” this may be the place. This hacienda-style inn with Old West rustic decor has only two rooms. Three generations of the Chesser family live on the property and run a working cattle and sheep ranch. The hacienda includes an inviting covered porch, and a great room with a checkerboard table, hobbyhorse, and piano. Guests have access to a kitchenette and laundry facilities. Capacity is 10 people with some bunk beds. Guests are invited to join in the daily workings of the ranch, including cattle drives. Dutch oven suppers fixed from ranch-raised meats, old-time storytelling, and riding the range to your heart’s content are all part of the deal. $320 per person per day adults, three-night minimum.

Hurd–La Rinconada Gallery and Guest Homes (575-653-4331), 105 La Rinconada Lane, San Patricio. Twenty miles east of Ruidoso on US 70 at Mile Marker 281. The exquisite gallery and five guest homes are located on the historic and splendid Sentinel Ranch, home of the first family of American art, the Hurd-Wyeth family. Stay in the Helenita, for example, named for family friend Helen Hayes. Located among quiet rolling hills near the Rio Ruidoso River, the original ranch-hand quarters on Sentinel Ranch have become utterly romantic guest houses with modern conveniences. They are filled with antiques and designer furnishings and art created by the Hurd-Wyeth family. Each of the houses has a private patio. On the southeast corner of the family polo field is an impressive gallery of original works by members of the Hurd-Wyeth family. Rates are based on the number of people in your party, ranging from $150 for two to $350 for six; two-night minimum. Additional fees for single-night stay. Weddings!

Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort and Casino (575-764-7059), 287 Carrizo Canyon Road, Mescalero. Four miles south of Ruidoso on NM 48. The 273-room, stunning, exciting Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort and Casino is set in the picturesque Sacramento Mountains next to shimmering Lake Mescalero. Recreational activities include the Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort Championship Golf Course, a fully equipped workout facility, indoor pool, fishing, horseback riding, and sport clay shooting. Ski Apache is approximately 45 miles away. Las Vegas–style casino gaming at the resort offers everything from penny slots to high roller games. Dining options include steak-and-seafood fine dining at Wendell’s, casual barbecue meals including breakfast at Apache Summit BBQ Co., the superior Gathering of Nations Buffet, and burgers, sandwiches, and beer at the casual Big Game Sports Bar and Grill. No need to leave the resort, once you check in. Some great deals to be had here folks. Rooms are gorgeous, spacious, and light. Rates vary dramatically, depending on weeknight versus weekend and time of year. $70–279.

images The Lodge Resort and Spa at Cloudcroft (800-395-6343), 601 Corona Place, Cloudcroft. The Lodge Resort & Spa is located in Cloudcroft at 9,000 feet elevation in the Sacramento Mountains, surrounded by the Lincoln National Forest. The resort offers fifty-nine rooms and suites. The original resort was destroyed by fire, and the current property is said to be haunted by characters from its past, in particular a wronged maid named Rebecca. Every New Mexico governor has slept in the elegant Governor’s Suite. Amenities include a heated outdoor pool, year-round sauna and outdoor hot tub, fitness room, nine-hole traditional Scottish format golf course, and hiking trails. A variety of treatments are available at the Spirit of the Mountain Spa. Rebecca’s, named after the resident ghost, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, plus an elaborate Sunday brunch. Rebecca’s Lounge, which was once owned by Al Capone, serves drinks throughout the day as well as light lunch fare. The Lodge has had several famous guests: Judy Garland, Clark Gable, and Pancho Villa. If you climb to the top of the bell tower, you can see where Clark Gable inscribed his name. In the 1930s, the resort was managed by Conrad Hilton, who was born and raised in San Antonio, New Mexico. According to reports, Hilton was familiar with The Lodge and wanted to be closer to his family while his hotel chain took off. Words cannot do this delightful and beautifully well-managed place justice. It is simply divine, one of my favorite New Mexico escapes, where you can truly make the world go away. Sit by the fire and you’ll agree. My highest recommendation, whether for romance, celebration, or relaxation. It is especially lovely at Christmastime and Valentine’s Day. Murder Mystery weekends are a hoot. Great deals Wed.–Sun. starting at $98. Average $164.

CABINS AND CAMPING For camping, see the state parks listed under Green Space.

Cabins at Cloudcroft (575-682-2396), 1000 Coyote Avenue, Cloudcroft. The sixteen delightful cabins at Cloudcroft are open year-round in the aspens and pines, yet still within village limits. Cabins include full kitchens, baths, and firewood, and a coin-operated laundry is on the premises. Guests may choose between a wood-burning stove or a fireplace. Propane grills and picnic areas are available during the summer months. Two night minimum; one-night stay negotiable. Small pets allowed. $109–129.

Story Book Cabins (888-257-2115 or 575-257-2115), 410 Main Road, Ruidoso. Located amid the tall pines of Ruidoso’s Upper Canyon along the “noisy” Ruidoso River, these “upscale rustic” cabins feature hot tubs, Jacuzzis, fully equipped kitchens, fireplaces, grills, private porches, and patios, as well as cable TV and DVD. The knotty-pine cabins have between one and six bedrooms. Secluded, yet close to in-town dining, galleries, and shops. Two night minimum. $134.

Where to Eat

DINING OUT Can’t Stop Smokin’ BBQ (575-630-0000), 418 Mechem Drive, Ruidoso. Open Tues.–Sun. 10–7. L, D, delivery. Wow! Head over here when the big barbecue craving hits. The slow-smoked brisket, ribs, and chicken are fall-off-the-fork tender, and the place can be a tad rowdy and a lot of fun. The “secret spice” mixture is MSG- and preservative-free. Really, really, really yummy. Inexpensive.

images Gathering of Nations Buffet (800-545-9011), Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort and Casino, Mescalero. Open daily. B 7–10; L 11–3:30; D Sat. 4:30–10, Sun.–Thurs. 4:30–9. This is quite possibly the best, biggest, tastiest, freshest of the casino buffets. Watch out for holiday specialties, prime rib, seafood extravaganza and crab leg nights. The food, plus the warmly lit atmosphere, make it a favorite. Prices still under $15 for dinner make this a bargain. Inexpensive.

Martin’s Capitol Cafe (575-208-5161), 110 W. 4th Street, Roswell. Mon.–Sat. 6 AM–8:30 PM. B, L, D. Martin’s has been downtown so long, it must be doing something right—and it is! Absolutely authentic, tasty New Mexican red and green chile, just hot enough to be serious, served in a warm, Mexican-style dining room. Martin’s has been discovered so is usually busy. Try for the off-hours. Inexpensive.

Old Road Restaurant (575-464-4674), 692 Old Road, Mescalero. Open daily 9–9. Guaranteed some of the most delicious New Mexican food you will ever put in your mouth. Go for the red combination, or just the red enchiladas. Chef-owner Henry Prelo Jr. makes his chilies rellenos fresh every morning. A comfortable log cabin atmosphere with local art and stellar service. A favorite with the motorcycle set. Inexpensive.

Rebecca’s (575-682-3131), The Lodge, 1 Corona Place, Cloudcroft. B, L, or a very special dinner. Classic fine dining. Try châteaubriand for two, served and sliced before your eyes with an elegance fit for Queen Victoria. Famous for its deluxe Sunday brunch buffet and panoramic view of the Tularosa Valley from the Conservatory. The finest restaurant in the area. When you’ve really got something to celebrate. Moderate–Expensive.

Rockin’ BZ Burgers (575-434-2375), 3005 N. White Sands Boulevard, Alamogordo. L, D Mon.–Sun. Only one reason—and it’s a swell one—to come to this formica-sterile café near the mall: the State Fair Championship–winning green chile cheeseburgers served here. They’re stuffed with grilled onions, topped with Hatch green chile and Wisconsin Cheddar—delish! Inexpensive.

Smokey Bear Restaurant (575-354-2253), 310 Smokey Bear Boulevard, Capitan. See Smokey Bear Motel listing. Inexpensive.

Tinnie Mercantile Store & Deli (575-622-2031), 412 W. 2nd Street, Roswell. 10–5:30 Mon.–Sat.; closed Sundays. Ladies who lunch and business folk alike come to dine on the awesome fresh salads and sandwiches. No better lunch spot in town, and if you have to wait, the shop stocks many lovely gifts, from stationary to jewelry. Inexpensive.

images Village Buttery (575-257-9251), 2701 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso. Voted Lincoln County’s “Best Lunch” many times. Yes, there are plenty of ladies dining here, but the food goes way beyond “ladies lunch” fare. If you have only one lunch to eat in Ruidoso, you’d be wise to head here. Three house-made soups every day, delicious overstuffed sandwiches, daily affordable comfort food specials like pot roast, roast turkey, sour cream enchiladas, plus a display case of luscious desserts. Dine outside on the deck in sunny weather. Inexpensive.

Wendell’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant (575-464-7842), Inn of the Mountain Gods Casino & Resort, Mescalero. Open D only Mon.–Thurs. 5–9; B, L, Fri.–Sat. 8–2, D 5–9; Sunday brunch 11–2, D 5–9. Steaks galore, with a $66 Kobe-style filet mignon in truffle sauce headlining the menu, plus pan-seared fresh halibut, New Mexico elk tenderloin in apple brandy reduction, and other delights. Expensive. The café adjacent Wendell’s Lounge serves soup, burgers, sandwiches, and salads daily 11–10. Inexpensive.

Yum Yum Donut Shop (575-585-2529), 460 Central Avenue, Tularosa. It is worth going out of your way to stop at this tiny, modest-looking café that is so much more than a doughnut shop. Although you won’t want to pass up a fresh daily “wildcat paw” or maple doughnut, do not, repeat, do not miss the brisket burrito with green chile. Mrs. Abeyta, who has lunch here every day, says the brisket is so tender she can “take her teeth out to eat it.” 5 AM–3 PM, but can have erratic hours, so call first. Inexpensive.

Twin Cronnies Drive-In, (575-763-5463), 709 Commerce Way, Clovis. The last working cronnie machine in existence, so they say. What is a cronnie? It is a mini-hotdog cooked by circulating over a gas flame grill. Daily specials, like fried catfish Fridays. Many diner treats: cherry coke, lime rickey, all the stuff so bad for you from the good old days. A must-do for nostalgia hunters.

Foxy Drive-In, (575-763-7995), 720 W. 7th Street, Clovis. Don’t ever, ever tell your cardiologist you went here. Everything is fried. Deep fried. Said to be the place where Buddy Holly, Roy Orbison, Waylon Jennings, and other musicians who recorded with Norman Petty at the 7th Street Studios hung out between sets. Inexpensive.

Entertainment

Flickinger Center for the Performing Arts (575-437-2202), 1110 New York Avenue, Alamogordo. “The Flick” is a remodeled venue for a lively season of music, theater, and dance entertainment the family can enjoy together.

Le Cave at Le Bistro (575-257-0132), 2800 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso. This is a special place for a glass of wine of an evening. A venue for live music.

Ruidoso Downs Race Track and Casino (575-378-4431), 26225 US 70 E, 2 miles north of Ruidoso on US 70. Open Memorial Day–Labor Day. Summer country music stars.

Sacred Grounds Coffee and Tea House (575-257-2273; www.sacredgroundscoffee.net), 2825 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso. Sunday night movie; Friday night open mic. Winter hours: B, L Sun.–Thurs.; B, L, D. Fri.–Sat. Freshly baked goodies, quiche, wraps, light meals. Serving an expanded B, L, D menu during the summer, open 7:30 AM–9 PM, with daily happy hour 4–6, featuring local wine and NM beer. Fair Trade coffee, vegan, and gluten free dishes.

Spencer Theater for the Performing Arts (575-336-4800), 108 Spencer Drive, Alto. Presenting a full season of outstanding theater, dance, and music September–May. Headliners have included Moscow Festival Ballet, violinist Natalie MacMaster, and Mel Tormé. The theater itself, with Dale Chihuly glass decor, is worth seeing.

Selective Shopping

Burro Street, Cloudcroft. Find here a worthwhile row of local craft shops, boutiques, antiques stores, galleries. You can stuff a teddy bear or get a gelato, have a beer in an Old West bar or find yoga attire.

Heart of the Desert: Eagle Ranch Pistachio Groves (575-434-0035), 7288 US 54 Expressway, Alamogordo. Open Mon.–Sat. 8–6, Sun. 9–6. Hop on a free tour of these family-run pistachio groves, munch red and green chile–flavored nuts, shop for New Mexico gifts, and splurge on homemade pistachio ice cream.

Sudderth Street, Ruidoso’s premier shopping street. The place to find stylish household decor, western wear, women’s clothing—at Rebekah’s and Michelle’s, featuring American-made SW-style clothing—and lunch and a cold one.