SANTA FE TRAIL REGION

Capulin, Cimarron, Clayton, Des Moines, Eagle Nest, Folsom, Raton, Roy, Springer, Wagon Mound, Mosquero

The Old West is alive and well out here, where the code of the West still rules and the economy traditionally ran on ranching, railroading, and mining. It’s pretty quiet, quiet enough to hear a meadowlark warbling. This is an excellent area to take your own wildlife photo safari. Springtime is windy, so you’ll likely be dodging tumbleweeds, and there’s a good chance you may get snowed in during winter. Not to worry; it can melt off pretty quick when the sun comes out. If you are sincere, and down to earth, Colfax County folk will befriend you; if you’re not, don’t expect them to be real sociable. Some of the oldest ranches in the country are located here, and many are run by the third and fourth, and even the fifth generation. The Santa Fe Trail winds through the country, and the ruts inscribed on the landscape by Conestoga wagons are still visible. Memories are long with history, and there’s probably a cowboy with a good story sitting next to you at the St. James Hotel bar.

GETTING THERE By car: Private automobile is the only realistic way to travel and see the sights up here. From Albuquerque, drive north on I-25 for 123 miles to Las Vegas. Continue north on I-25 another 102 miles to Raton. Cimarron is 41 miles from Raton via I-25 south to US 64. Clayton is 90 miles east of Raton on US 64. Or, at Springer, exit I-25 and travel US 53 to Gladstone, then on to Clayton.

By train: Amtrak stops once daily, both north and southbound, in Raton and Las Vegas.

GUIDANCE Please be aware that in small towns, chambers of commerce are often staffed by volunteers and may be closed during posted hours of operation, which may also be irregular. Patience and some advance planning will help cut down on frustration. In general, they are open during the week—generally 10–2 is the safest times to find the staff in—and tend to be closed weekends in the smaller towns (or at best, open a half-day on Saturday). Some do not have a physical location, and others may just ask you to call back.

Cimarron Chamber of Commerce (575-376-2417), 104 N. Lincoln Avenue, Cimarron. A tiny wooden office in the town’s central park off US 64 beside a statue of Lucien B. Maxwell is the place to find out about local happenings.

Clayton/Union County Chamber of Commerce (800-390-7858 or 575-374-9253), 1103 S. 1st Street, Clayton, is professional and will return phone calls in a timely manner. It’s good to make contact here for specific directions and drive time to more remote locations.

Eagle Nest Chamber of Commerce (575-377-2420), 284 E. Therma Drive, Eagle Nest. Hours are catch as catch can.

Raton Chamber & Economic Development Council Inc. (575-445-3689), 100 Clayton Road, Raton.

Raton Visitor Information Center (575-445-2761), 100 Clayton Road, Raton, is a spacious, comfortable place offering an abundance of regional literature, weather information, and free Wi-Fi, staffed by friendly local volunteers

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Miners’ Colfax Medical Center (575-445-3661), 203 Hospital Drive, Raton.

Union County General Hospital (575-374-2585), 300 Wilson Street, Clayton.

Alta Vista Regional Hospital (505-426-3500), Legion Drive, Las Vegas.

To See

SANTA FE TRAIL COUNTRY TOWNS Capulin. A place name frequently encountered in New Mexico, the word is Spanish for “chokecherry,” or “wild cherry.” Here it refers to the hamlet 28 miles southeast of Raton on US 64/87 near the border of Colfax and Union counties. The main attraction is the dormant volcano that is the centerpiece of Mount Capulin National Monument. It was originally a settlement of Hispanic farmers founded sometime after the Civil War.

Cimarron. Four miles southwest of Raton. South on I-25 to exit 419, then US 64 west. Cimarron is located at the junction of US 64 and NM 58 and 21. While the exact meaning of this word is not certain, as it may refer either to wild Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep or the wild plum or wild rose that once grew here abundantly; the word wild is applied with accuracy to the town, which still exudes a Wild West flavor. Founded in 1841 as the headquarters for the Maxwell Land Grant and home of land baron Lucien Bonaparte Maxwell, it became known as a hideout for desperados as well as a gathering spot for traders, miners, and travelers on the Santa Fe Trail. The Las Vegas Optic once reported, “It was a quiet week in Cimarron. Only three shootings took place.” Nearby are the Philmont Scout Ranch and the home of Kit Carson. Cimarron is a pleasant stop for exploring Santa Fe Trail history, browsing the unpretentious shops and galleries, and absorbing the energy of a place still inhabited largely by cowboys, ranchers, old-timers, and artists. The saloon of the St. James Hotel, with 27 bullet holes in the ceiling, is a good place to meet up with as many characters as you deserve to.

Clayton. Ninety miles east of Raton on US 64/87. Dating to 1888, Clayton was born with the arrival of the railroad, when it became a major cattle-shipping point. It remains to this day a center of ranching activity that pioneer descendants still call home. Among its historic treasures are WPA murals of the New Deal, the 1916 Luna Theater, the Herzstein Memorial Museum, and the recently restored 125-year-old Eklund Hotel. Nearby are Clayton Lake State Park and the Dinosaur Trackway, the second-largest preserved field of dinosaur tracks in the western hemisphere. The town was named for Sen. Stephen Dorsey’s son, Clayton. Dorsey was a crony of Albert Fall, of Teapot Dome notoriety. Originally home to Indians, then a resting point for Santa Fe Trail settlers, Clayton grew from a campground for cattle drovers. The railroad came through in 1888, and the town subsequently became a prosperous shipping and supply station, as well as a target for Black Jack Ketchum, a notorious train robber. Clayton High School has a WPA museum, but appointments must be made in advance to see it. Check with the chamber of commerce.

Des Moines. Thirty-eight miles southeast of Raton on US 64/87 at the junction of US 64/87 and NM 325. Originally a village of homesteaders founded in 1887 when the railroad came through, Des Moines is named for the town of the same name in Iowa and pronounced with an audible s at the end of Moines. It supposedly got its name when two cowboys, wondering what to call the place, noticed a railroad car and saw the words Des Moines painted on the side. Today it remains a proud, small community of ranching folk and, if you are an artist or photographer, it’s a gold mine of opportunities for making images of weathered barns, windmills, and tumbledown houses.

Eagle Nest. Sixty-four miles southwest of Raton, at the junction of US 64/87 and NM 38. The hamlet, in the shadow of 13,161-foot-high Wheeler Peak, the state’s highest, is the gateway to Cimarron Canyon. Originally called Therma, for the daughter of the postal inspector, Eagle Nest is a lovely mountain village on the shore of Eagle Nest Lake State Park, a haven for fishermen, ice fishermen, and RV campers. Back in the day, Eagle Nest was known as a wide-open gambling town patronized by politicians traveling across the state. Now it is a quiet, restful place to kick back and enjoy the clear mountain air and excellent fly-fishing. Fourth of July is celebrated with a mighty fireworks display over Eagle Nest Lake; New Year’s Day is celebrated with the Polar Bear Plunge.

Folsom. Across scenic Johnson Mesa, which may be closed in winter on account of snow, 38 miles east of Raton off NM 72, lies sleepy Folsom. When President Grover Cleveland’s wife, Frances Folsom, came through on the train in 1888, the little railroad settlement known as Ragtown changed its name in her honor. Today the tiny town is known as the place where George McJunkin, the observant African American foreman for the Crowfoot Ranch, in 1926 made a remarkable discovery. He found large bones in an arroyo containing ancient Pleistocene bison skeletons and nineteen chipped stone spear points that revised estimates of how long man had inhabited this area—for at least 10,000 and as much as 15,000 years. The originals are housed in the Denver Museum of History and Science, and the Folsom site is designated a National Historic Landmark. Folsom was proclaimed a State Monument in 1951. It is also the site of Folsom Falls, a spring-fed waterfall on the Dry Cimarron River, 4 miles northeast of Folsom on NM 456. But beware of rattlesnakes if you go there! Folsom Museum is housed in the historic 1896 Doherty Building. The Folsom Hotel was built in 1888 and was originally the Drew & Phillips General Mercantile Store.

Raton is 225 miles north of Albuquerque on I-25. Originally called Willow Springs, this town on the edge of Raton Pass into Colorado was a watering stop for military and Santa Fe Trail travelers coming over the Mountain Route. The town came to life in 1880 as a support stop for the Santa Fe Railway roundhouse and shops. Yet earlier, following the Civil War, the government mail stage carrying passengers descended challenging Raton Pass and stopped at the Clifton House Stage Station below Red River Peak for dinner, then galloped into Cimarron on the way to Fort Union. Raton has vintage motels and eateries left over from the era of La Mesa Racetrack, a well-preserved historic walking district alongside the railroad tracks, and a museum packed with coal mining history, and it makes a good base for exploring the area. Locals appreciate the recent additions of downtown coffee shops, pizzeria, and brewpub.

Roy. Nine miles east of the Canadian River, Roy was originally a homesteading community that found its reason for existence when the railroad came through. Founded by Frank Roy and three brothers from Canada, it became a ranching center that was then decimated by the Dust Bowl. Today it is a sleepy village in the middle of Harding County, the biggest county in New Mexico by area, but with only 900 inhabitants.

Springer is 131 miles north of Santa Fe on I-25, at the junction of US 56. Formerly the capital of Colfax County, today Springer is the site of the Colfax County Fair and Rodeo held in early August, and the Santa Fe Trail Interpretive Center and Museum.

Wagon Mound. Twenty-five miles southwest of Springer on I-25, and a stop of the Santa Fe Trail, the town is named after the butte on its eastern edge that resembles a covered wagon, a Santa Fe Trail landmark. Its previous name was Santa Clara.

HISTORIC LANDMARKS, PLACES, AND SITES Black Jack Ketchum’s Grave (575-374-0953), Clayton Cemetery, Princeton Avenue, Clayton. This is the final resting place of the notorious train robber who was hanged in 1901 at Union County Courthouse. His last words were reputedly, “I had breakfast in Clayton, but I’ll have dinner in hell!” Free.

Dawson is a ghost town 5 miles northwest of Colfax, formerly a prosperous Phelps-Dodge mining town. In its heyday it was one of the liveliest towns in northeast New Mexico, known for its many winning teams, particularly baseball. Here miners of various ethnic backgrounds and their families lived, worked, and played together. While the town has been dismantled, the Dawson Cemetery, where hundreds of miners killed in tragic accidents in 1913 and 1923 are buried beneath simple white crosses, remains a moving sight and highlights an important, if often overlooked, chapter in the history of the West. Free.

Historic 1st Street, Raton. Paralleling the railroad tracks, this four-block historic district includes the Old Pass Gallery, occupying a former Wells Fargo freight office; the classic California Mission Atchison; Topeka & Santa Fe Railway station, antiques shops; and well-preserved late-nineteenth- to early-twentieth-century buildings.

Mandala Center (575-278-3012), 35 miles east of Raton on US 64/87, Des Moines. An ecumenical spiritual retreat center open to all, the Mandala Center on Sierra Grande Mountain offers workshops year-round, as well as opportunities for private retreats and workshops for leadership, spiritual development, writing skills, and health and wholeness, as well as personal renewal. Based on Christian religious principles, it is indeed welcoming to people of all faiths. And the food is wonderful!

Santa Fe Trail (SFT) sites: Point of Rocks, 23 miles east of Springer on US 56, north on County Road 52. Seven miles from rest area, 2 miles east, then 1 mile north, look for SFT sign-in box at ranch house, which is on the Santa Fe National Historic Trail. Wagon ruts, graves, Indian campsites. McNees Crossing (575-374-9653), 25 miles north of Clayton on NM 402. Santa Fe Trail site named for trader killed there in 1828. Nearby are Santa Fe Trail wagon trail ruts.

DESERTED CALIFORNIA MISSION–STYLE RAILROAD STATIONS PUNCTUATE US 60

AT THE MANDALA CENTER, TIBETAN MONKS CREATE SAND PAINTINGS THEY WILL BEGIN TO DESTROY AS SOON AS THEY ARE FINISHED

Philmont Scout Ranch (575-376-2281), 137,000 acres 10 miles southwest of Cimarron on NM 21, Rayado. Oklahoma oilman Waite Phillips donated this lush property to the Boy Scouts of America. Each summer, it is used by scouts from all over the world for backcountry camping.

Shuler Theater (575-445-4746), 131 N. 2nd Street, Raton. Completed in 1915, this European Rococo jewel box of a theater, with WPA murals depicting the history of the area, continues to host a variety of outstanding theater and music productions year-round, from ballroom dance to mariachi, Neil Simon to Brazilian dance to Chinese acrobats. Tours by appointment.

MUSEUMS Aztec Mill Museum (575-376-2417), 220 W. 17th Street, Cimarron. In Memorial Day–Labor Day, 1–4. Originally known as the Aztec Mill, it was built by land baron Lucien Maxwell in 1864 to grind wheat and corn flour for nearby Apache and Ute, as well as Fort Union, with whom he had contracts to supply provisions. You can easily spend half a day wandering the three floors that tell the history of the Maxwell Land Grant, Native Americans, ranchers of the area, and scouting. $3 suggested donation. Call ahead to check hours, staffed by volunteers.

Folsom Museum (575-278-2122), junction NM 325 and NM 456, 101 Main Street, Folsom. Open daily 10–5 Memorial Day–Labor Day, weekends only May and September 10–5, winter by appointment only. Displays of Folsom Man, whose points (arrows) were first found in this area by African American cowboy George McJunkin. It has been a long time since this museum was updated, and the crowded walls recall a bygone, nostalgic perspective on the world. $1.50 adults, $.50 children ages 6–12, age 5 and under free.

Frank Brownell Museum of the Southwest (575-445-3615), NRA Whittington Center, 10 miles south of Raton on US 64. Open Mon.–Fri. 8–5, Sat.–Sun. 9–4. A celebration of firearms and the Second Amendment. There’s much to learn about the region and the wars of the twentieth century here. Free.

Herzstein Memorial Museum (575-374-2977), corner 2nd and Walnut Street, 22 S. 2nd Street, Clayton. Open May–August Tues.–Sat. 10–5, September–April 10–4. The museum, donated by the pioneer Herzstein family, is home of the Union County Historical Society, which lovingly tends the collections housed in a former 1919 church. Collections include a wealth of homesteader artifacts, memorabilia, furniture, and art, and the museum makes for a surprisingly refreshing experience. Donation.

Kit Carson Museum (575-376-2281), Philmont Scout Ranch, Rayado. Eleven miles south of Cimarron on NM 21. Open June–August daily 8–5; September and May Mon.–Fri. 8–5. This hacienda, and home of Indian scout and mountain man Kit Carson, was actually the original Fort Union, protecting the frontier from Indian raids, built before the fort now bearing that name was constructed. As historically accurate as it can possibly be, down to the flour sacks in the storehouse, this living museum is an excellent way to get a true feel of the Santa Fe Trail day, the fur trade, and the early settlement of New Mexico. A really special experience is the Wednesday 7 PM candlelight and storytelling tour, June–August, $3. Reservations necessary. Free.

Philmont Museum and Seton Memorial Library (575-376-2281), 17 Deer Run Road, Cimarron. Open year-round. Ernest Thompson Seton, the father of scouting, is recognized here and will be hailed even more so in the future, as a multi-million dollar Boy Scout of America museum is planned for this site. Bookstore carries fine selection of western books and excellent Native American jewelry. Free.

Old Pass Arts Gallery (575-445-2052), 145 S. 1st Street, Raton. Open Tues.–Sat. 10–4. Closed major holidays. Here you will find exhibitions of local watercolorists and photographers, as well as art of regional interest and a renovated Wells Fargo freight office. Free.

WILD TURKEYS ROAM FREE AT THE PHILMONT SCOUT RANCH

Raton Museum (575-445-8979), 108 S. 2nd Street, Raton. Open Wed.–Sat. 10–4. A collection of mining, railroad, Santa Fe Trail, and ranching artifacts that provides a history lesson for all who want to understand this place. Upstairs are changing exhibits of local contemporary artists. Free.

Santa Fe Trail Interpretive Center and Museum (575-483-5554), 606 Maxwell Avenue, Springer. Open Memorial Day–Labor Day 9–5; hours otherwise variable. This collection is housed in the 1882 former Colfax County Courthouse. Here you will find a tangled trove of Santa Fe Trail exhibits, historic photos, artifacts, old letters and maps, and information on the New Mexico Territorial period and pioneer life in northeast New Mexico. Free.

Villa Philmonte (575-376-1136), Philmont Scout Ranch, Rayado. Ten miles south of Cimarron on NM 21. Guided tours offered spring and summer. Please call for times and dates. This grand, elegant Mediterranean summer home of oilman Waite Phillips and his wife, Genevieve, is now the property of the Philmont Scout Ranch, of which Phillips is the benefactor. Built 1926–27; all art and furnishings remain intact, as does the splendid original tile work. Free.

NATURAL WONDERS Capulin Volcano National Monument (575-278-2201), Crater Rim Trail, Capulin. North of Capulin 5.5 miles on NM 456. Closed major holidays. Open Memorial Day–Labor Day 7:30–6:30, Labor Day–Memorial Day 8–4. This natural cone of a relatively young volcano, only 7,000 years old, is one of the few places in the world where you can hike inside a cinder cone. Visitors may walk 2 miles round-trip into the 415-foot-deep crater and hike along the 1-mile rim trail overlooking much of the Raton-Clayton volcanic fields. From the rim trail, you can see four states, and to the west, view the snowcapped Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Watch for monthly summer star parties—the stars up here are amazing! Capulin recently received the Gold, or highest, International Dark Skies rating. $5 per vehicle.

SIGHTING THE TOOTH OF TIME MEANT ONLY SEVEN MORE DAYS TO SANTA FE FOR THE PIONEERS

Sierra Grande. Ten miles southeast of Folsom, off US 64/85, is the largest single mountain in the United States, measuring 40 miles around the base, covering 50 square miles, at an altitude of 8,720 feet.

Tooth of Time is a prominent, tooth-like rock formation visible from Cimarron that was significant to Santa Fe Trail travelers. When trail pioneers saw the Tooth of Time, they knew they only had seven more days to reach Santa Fe.

SCENIC DRIVES For information on New Mexico’s Scenic Byways, visit www.newmexico.org/things-to-do/scenic-byways/.

Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway NM 406 north to NM 456, it extends 40 miles north of Clayton. The Dry Cimarron River ran mainly underground but would surface occasionally. This mostly deserted scenic road runs through Union and Colfax counties, and it has served as an alternate route between Clayton and Raton. There is much history in the way of Santa Fe Trail wagon ruts, old mining camps, and many landmark features. The drive brings the traveler through high prairie, national grasslands, nature preserves, volcanoes, mesas, and colorful geologic formations.

Johnson Mesa is 41 miles from Raton to Folsom along NM 72. Spectacular views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains are yours here above Raton, and there is no better place for stargazing in the entire state. Settlers believed this was a paradise of rich grasslands. Many of the early settlers worked in the coal mines. When winter came, survival became difficult. The little stone church on the mesa is always open. This is truly a scenic byway, but it’s not passable for much of the winter. Summertime, the mesa is covered with white flowers and herds of antelope gallop, while the land serves as summer pasture for local ranchers. Homesteader cabins and dugouts are visible still, and a few hardy souls continue to live up here.

Santa Fe Trail National Scenic Byway (www.newmexico.org/things-to-do/scenic-byways/santa-fe-trail-national/). Follow the actual path of the Santa Fe Trail wagons and see wagons and abandoned forts in the rugged landscape of mountain canyons. The byway extends 480 miles altogether. If you are following the route, you can go to Santa Fe via Clayton, Raton, Cimarron, and Springer, to Las Vegas. In New Mexico, highlights include Fort Union National Monument in Watrous, Kiowa National Grasslands in Clayton, Pecos National Historical Park, Pecos, and the Santa Fe National Forest.

To Do

FISHING Charette Lakes (505-827-7882), 35 miles southwest of Springer. I-25 exit 404 and west on NM 569. Boating and fishing as well as primitive camping are yours on the shores of this deep natural volcanic lake, which can be windy in the evening.

Cimarron Canyon State Park (575-377-6271), 28869 Highway 64, Eagle Nest. One of the state’s prime German brown trout fisheries, with 9 miles of fly-casting along the Cimarron River. Hiking, camping, picnicking. $5 day use; $10–18 camping.

Eagle Nest Lake State Park (575-377-1594), 42 Marina Way, NM 64 north of Eagle Nest. Boating, fishing, and ice fishing are popular on this 2,400-acre lake that yields some of the finest trout and Konkani salmon fishing in the state. The patient wildlife watcher will see elk, deer, bears, and eagles. This is a beloved lakeside summer picnic area. $5 per vehicle.

Springer Lake (no phone), 4 miles northwest of Springer on CR 17. Picnicking, camping, and fishing for northern pike and catfish make this small lake a favorite with locals. Free.

Lake Maloya. See Sugarite Canyon State Park under Green Space, Route 66 Country.

GOLFING Raton Country Club and Municipal Golf Course (575-445-8113), 510 Country Club Road, Raton. Voted “Best Nine Hole Course in New Mexico,” this lovely 6,500-foot-high course, with plenty of hazards, was built in 1922 by a coal baron. Greens fee for nine holes: $16.

MOUNTAIN BIKING See Sugarite Canyon State Park under Green Space, Route 66 Country. You can just about choose your own level of terrain here, with this uncrowded, premium area that is pretty much an insider’s secret. Here are challenging up-and-down trails and sweet flats packed with greenery, wildflowers, meadows, forests, and lake views. It’s a fairly easy ride through ride former coal camp, around Lake Maloya, to the Colorado border. The visitor center provides trail maps. $5.

SNOW SPORTS Enchanted Forest Cross-Country Ski Area (575-754-6112). At the summit of Bobcat Pass, just north of Red River, the Enchanted Forest is the state’s premier cross-country and snowshoeing venue, offering everything you could want or need, including rentals, yurt rentals, and lessons. There are almost 20 miles of groomed Nordic ski trails for varied skill levels, and close to 10 miles of snowshoe trails, plus designated dog trails, though you may use the trails if you are pet-free. Under $20. Warning: as of press time, there is talk this place may be closing.

Lodging

BED & BREAKFASTS, INNS, AND MOTELS Best Western Kokopelli Lodge (575-374-2589), 702 S. 1st Street, Clayton. Clean, light, spacious rooms with Southwest decor and all conveniences make this a most pleasant stop. A café serving a better-than-average complimentary hot buffet breakfast, swimming pool, and a swell gift shop are on the premises. $127.

Budget Host Melody Lane (575-445-3655), 136 Canyon Drive, Raton. My out-of-town guests rave about the in-room steam baths. Continental breakfast, pet-friendly (to small pets), friendly service, too. Although affiliated with a chain, this twenty-six-room lodging retains its local ambience. $51.

Raton Pass Motor Inn (575-445-3641), 308 Canyon Drive, Raton. “The home of vintage cool,” with its remodel and new owners, this place has become a happening favorite of road-trippers and motorcyclists. Many special events throughout the year. Definitely an experience. Try a stay in Bettie’s Boudoir, the Wildlife Room, or the Man Cave. Lots of amenities. $60.

Casa Lemus Inn and Restaurant (575-445-2737), 350 Clayton Road, Raton. Well-managed, clean old-time motel with spacious rooms at inexpensive rates. Gets good marks from friends, and the on-site restaurant (B, L, D Sun.–Sat.) serves decent Mexican food, including good fajitas, American diner fare, and breakfast.

Heart’s Desire (575-445-1000), 301 S. 3rd Street, Raton. This sweet three-story, 1885 Victorian home in comfortable walking distance of downtown, the historic district, and train station happens to be run by an antiques lover. This bed & breakfast reflects the charm and cozy clutter of her love. Plus, if you feel like doing a little shopping, many of the collectibles are for sale. You will feel cared for and catered to here, with evening snacks, chocolates, and egg puffs for breakfast. The third-floor Hunting and Fishing Room, with its views of nearby mountains, is truly a getaway, and the Blue Willow Room will romance the heart of any lady. An evening at this retreat into the past would make a darling Valentine’s Day surprise. $69–$120.

Oasis Motel (575-445-2221), 1445 S. 2nd Street, Raton. With a popular café on the premises, and fourteen clean and serviceable rooms in classic motel decor, this locally owned and operated motel is a good choice. $75.

Express St. James Hotel (See “Historic Hotels,” here).

Plaza Hotel (See “Historic Hotels,” here).

LODGES AND RANCHES Vermejo Park Ranch (575-445-3097), 100 NM 555 Vermejo Road, Raton. Once part of the Maxwell Land Grant, later the private getaway of Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks, this piece of grand history is today the property of media mogul Ted Turner. Former guests include presidents, industrialists, and celebrity movers and shakers from Hollywood to Washington, DC. An exclusive hunting and fishing lodge for the privileged, it is possible, for a price, to visit and enjoy the Vermejo, with its twenty-one stocked lakes, legendary trout streams, and abundant herds of elk and bison. Since Turner purchased the property in 1996, the Vermejo has actively sought to restore the ecology and bring back native animals, including black-footed ferrets and wild wolves. Two-night minimum required, guide services extra. Gourmet meals, served in the clubby dining room overlooking the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, are included. Fishing season is May–September. Starts at $1250 per double occupancy room per night and up, meals included; (non-peak season), children under 12 free with two adults. Winter season is divine.

CABINS AND CAMPING Summer-Land RV Park (575-445-9536), 1900 Cedar Street, Raton. With forty-two full hookups, tent camping, cabins, a playground, laundry, store, free Wi-Fi, and even minor RV repairs available, this pet-friendly, handicapped-accessible park has a reputation for friendliness and service. It’s at 7,000 feet, so nights can be chilly, but it’s a great place for stargazing and wildlife watching. Located on a frontage road off I-25, it somehow manages to be a quiet spot. $28.50. Pet restrictions.

Where to Eat

DINING OUT Dining Room, St. James Hotel (888-376-2664), 167 S. Collinson, Cimarron. D only. Steaks, Mexican food, and salad bar. Warmth emanates from the hearth-like fireplace in the center of this refurbished western saloon, and cowboy photos and memorabilia grace the walls. Originating in 1873 as a saloon operated by Lincoln’s chef, Henri Lambert, this fine establishment offers a convivial full bar adjacent to the dining room. Today it is part of the Express Ranch empire. Moderate–Expensive.

Pappas’ Sweet Shop Restaurant (575-445-9811), 1201 S. 2nd Street, Raton. Open daily, B, L, D. Sun. 8–2. A place for a nice lunch or dinner out, especially if there is business to be conducted, with decent prime rib, home-cooked stews, homemade soup daily, and dessert created by a respected local chef, plus a sense of itself as a bastion of gentility in a fast-food world. The new ice-cream parlor is pure nostalgia. It’s still in the family, generations after the original Mr. Pappas started out selling candy to the coal miners. Wine and beer. Moderate.

Plaza Hotel Dining Room (See “Historic Hotels,” here).

Eklund Hotel Dining Room (See “Historic Hotels,” here).

EATING OUT Colfax Tavern, Cold Beer, New Mexico (575-376-2229), 11 miles east of Cimarron on US 64. You can see the tall white letters on the red-painted building from a mile out. The only establishment in the ghost town of Colfax, this bar has been here since Prohibition, so they say. Right up there with the best cowboy bars, with live music and lots of locals who’d never let the truth stand in the way of a good story. It’s friendly and comfortable, with live music and dancing on weekends in summer on the outdoor dance floor. Burgers and pizza and pub food is what’s on the menu. Just like an old-time roadhouse. Inexpensive.

Colfax Ale Cellar (575-445-9727), 215 S. 2nd Street, Raton. Grassroots microbrewery. Unpretentious, local hangout, very good seasonal brews, live music, food on the side, or order a pizza from Bruno’s. Inexpensive.

Bruno’s Pizza (575-445-9512), 133 Cook Avenue, Raton. Popular pizza spot beer and wine, vintage western building, convivial atmosphere, good service. Very tasty pie with a chewy crust.

Elida’s Cafe (575-483-2985), 801 Railroad Avenue, Springer. With plastic tablecloths, fluorescent lighting, and a menu tilted south of the border, Elida’s couldn’t be a more real, down-to-earth stop for homemade, from scratch, every day, sopaipillas, Frito pie, or a torta—a “Mexican sub.” Try the gorditas, a homey, hard-to-find specialty of fried masa (cornmeal) stuffed with ground beef and served with beans and rice. The service is caring and thorough. Inexpensive.

The Historic Ice House (575-445-0003), 945 S. 2nd Street, Raton. Open 11–8 daily, closed Sundays. Barbecue/smokehouse with brisket, chicken, salads, tacos, cobbler, and chocolate pudding pie. Desserts made fresh daily. Good family choice. Moderate.

The Art of Snacks (575-707-8020), 1117 S. 2nd Street, Raton. Closed Sundays. Hawaiian shave ice, cinnamon rolls, doughnuts, Frito pie . . . what’s not to like? A snack for every appetite and time of day and season. Local art, too. Inexpensive.

Willie’s Smokehouse (719-680-3607), 1005 S. 2nd Street, Raton. Willie’s smoker is going from early in the morning, producing smoked barbecue pulled pork and chicken strips, hot dogs . . . he’s got a sign up telling passersby what’s cooking. Drive-thru, inexpensive.

Enchanted Grounds Espresso Bar & Cafe (575-445-2219), 111 Park Avenue, Raton. Closed Sundays. 7–4 daily; may close earlier on Sat. Wi-Fi, fine lattes, wholesome soups and sandwiches, breakfast burritos, plus occasional live music and open mic on weekends, served in the old Silver Dollar bar. Read the paper, check your email, and catch up on the local gossip. Excellent coffee, house-baked pastries. Friday is Frito pie day, but you’d better get there early. Moderate.

Gladstone Mercantile (575-485-2467), 4618 US 56, Gladstone. Mon.–Fri. 8:30–5; Sat. 8:30–2. Just when you thought there was nothing out there but the high lonesome sky and the wind, along comes the quintessential stop in the road, where you can find a welcome with fresh hot coffee, hot soup, yummy barbecue brisket sandwiches, gifts to warm the heart of any cowgirl, and books by local authors. The place also doubles as a local grocery store. Serving a home cooked special every day. In-house baked goods, too. Mon.–Sat. Inexpensive.

Zayra’s Cafe (575-483-2813), 42 US 56, Springer. Mon.–Fri. 7–7. Wash down those cheeseburgers and fries with a chocolate malt or a thick, creamy milkshake at this old-fashioned, roadside stop. Tacos get raves. You’ll have trouble spending more than $7 on lunch or dinner. Inexpensive.

Mulligan’s Restaurant & Bar (575-445-8501), 473 Clayton Road, Raton. Soups, salads, pizza, pasta, appetizers, American fare, convivial bar. Since opening in the remodeled Best Western, spacious, comfortable Mulligan’s has become the most popular local hangout in town. Moderate.

Rabbit Ears Cafe (575-374-3277), 1201 S. 1st Street, Clayton. The local favorite lunchtime destination in town. Hardly gourmet fare, but the lunch counter menu is filling and tasty. Standard burgers and Mexican fare. Inexpensive.

Selective Shopping

Cimarron Art Gallery (575-376-2614), 337 9th Street, Cimarron. They’ve got it all! Strong coffee, hand-dipped ice cream treats at the old-fashioned counter, beautiful regional jewelry, hand-carved wooden wares, handmade pottery, and fine art. Best of all, they have the kind of friendly service that will keep you coming back.

Pack Rat (575-445-3242), 134 S. 1st Street, Raton. Lively collection of ceramics, regional books, gifts of all sorts, as well as ice cream and cold drinks. A good stop if you’re waiting for the train.

Solano’s Boot and Western Wear (575-445-2632), 101 S. 2nd Street, Raton. You’ll look like a cowboy if you shop here, where all the most beloved brands are in stock—and in your size. Boots and jeans, belts and hats come in a wealth of styles and colors. They have vintage-look and retro fashion, too. Check out the collection of well-worn hats on the wall. Each has a story to tell. This family business has been around a long, long time, and does quite a bit of business online, too.

Patchwork Phoenix (575-445-8000), 228 S. 1st Street, Raton. So much more than a quilt shop, under the guidance of Hal and Laura Brewer, Patchwork Phoenix is something of a community center, with games, ice cream cones, a selection of fine tea, snacks, local art. Classes and workshops and always something fun going on!