These restaurants certainly do! All were stores during some part of their existence. Today, however, instead of racks of clothing or cases of merchandise, they offer up a wide selection of menu items. Even though the penny candy and the pickle barrel are gone, we met a few people who’d worked in those old emporiums. And we even saw one or two checkerboards ready for a game.
400 NORTH WHITEWOMAN STREET
COSHOCTON, OH 43812
740-622-4001
In 1816, James Calder laid out a town named Caldersburgh. Fourteen years later, Leander Ransom and Noah Swayne petitioned the state legislature to rename the village Roscoe, in honor of William Roscoe, an English author and abolitionist of the period. The opening of the Ohio & Erie Canal had a strong impact on the community, transforming it from a humble settlement into one of the largest wheat-shipping ports along the 308-mile waterway. Canals continued to operate until the great flood of 1913. But the flood, along with the success of the railroads, marked the passing of the Ohio & Erie Canal’s heyday.
The idea for a historical restoration in Roscoe Village was born at the dedication of a mural painted for Coshocton County’s sesquicentennial celebration. The artist, Dean Cornwell, had chosen an 1850s canal scene as his subject. Seeing this rendition, local industrialist Edward Montgomery and his wife, Frances, were inspired to return the town to its proud past.
Today, State Route 16 runs where the canal once did. Alongside it is a four-story building that once housed grain, wool, hides, and produce on the lower floors and dry goods on the floors above. It is now an eatery known, appropriately, as the Old Warehouse Restaurant. Arnold Medbery purchased this property in 1838 from Ransom and Swayne and built an establishment he called The Mill Store alongside the canal. The lowest floor was open at the back, so barges could pull up and transfer their cargo easily.
We arrived not by canal barge but by car, driving through the village before parking in front of the restaurant. Just inside the front door is a charming waiting area, complete with a potbelly stove. Downstairs, the massive sandstone blocks of the original foundation are still in place. Antique implements hang on the walls. Many of them have to do with the making of apple butter, which is a big event in this area during the fall.
The main dining room is to the right of the entryway. Its plank flooring and rough-hewn beams are original, as are some of the bills of sale and deeds that hang on the walls. You’ll also see wagon wheels, feed sacks, and other items of the mid- to late 1800s. Debbie’s meal choice, a delicious bowl of Ham and Bean Soup, was in keeping with the time period and the chilly weather outside. At the recommendation of our server, Bill, an Apple Dumpling soon followed, making Debbie feel as if the calendar might just have been turned back. Karen’s lunch of Stuffed Pork Loin, served with Mashed Potatoes and Sautéed Vegetables, was every bit as good. We left completely sated, wishing we had more time to spend enveloped in the delightful past of Roscoe Village.
1 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
¼ teaspoon Italian seasoning
¼ teaspoon onion powder
salt and pepper to taste
4 chicken breasts, boned
1 large onion, chopped
1 large green pepper, chopped
4 ounces mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons butter
8 slices provolone cheese
In a large bowl, combine oil, garlic, Italian seasoning, onion powder, and salt and pepper. Marinate chicken in this mixture in refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight. Remove chicken and grill to 165 degrees. Discard marinade. Sauté onions, peppers, and mushrooms in butter for about 5 minutes. Top each chicken breast with sautéed vegetables and 2 slices of provolone. Place under broiler until cheese bubbles. Serves 4.
BREAD PUDDING
1 loaf white bread
½ cup raisins
6 eggs
3 cups milk
teaspoon cinnamon
pinch of ground cloves
½ cup sugar
¼ cup cinnamon sugar
vanilla ice cream
Tear bread into pieces. In a large, shallow bowl, whip together next 6 ingredients until thoroughly combined. Add bread and let sit for at least 2 hours. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 16-by-9-by-2-inch baking dish and add mixture. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and serve hot with vanilla ice cream. Serves 8 to 10.
127 OHIO STREET
MARIETTA, OH 45750
740-374-2233
Marietta, established in 1788, was the location of the land-grant office for the Northwest Territory. Consequently, the town was a hub of activity as settlers passed through, full of hope and the promise of a better future, picking up their deeds at a wooden structure that still stands today.
During that time, the Ohio and Muskingum rivers were a major source of transportation and trade. The riverbanks were lined with shops, hotels, taverns, and restaurants. Today, the only original river-front structure that remains is the building that houses The Levee House Café. It was completed around 1826 for Dudley Woodbridge, the first merchant in the Northwest Territory, and was used originally as a dry-goods store. Because of the Flemish-bond brick pattern used in the construction, the building has been credited to Colonel Joseph Barker, whose most famous work is the Blennerhassett Mansion.
The oldest part of The Levee House Café contains the Woodridge Room, a cozy dining room with interesting seating made right in Marietta. The eye-catching black chairs are a special design once made for Chester A. Parsons’ Virginia Street Tavern, a place notorious for its bar brawls. Mr. Parsons went through so many chairs that the manufacturer created this special design with no glued joints, so the parts of the chair could easily be put back together after a fight. Other décor in the room has a history as well. The ceiling came from an old clothing store and the light fixtures from a hardware establishment. The marble window sills once served as teller counters in a local bank.
We dined in the main dining room, a sunny addition from 1912 that houses an Underground Railroad display for about nine months of the year. Partner Harley Noland shared his impressive knowledge of local history as we perused the lunch menu. He chose his favorite, Pasta Verde, and offered us a sample before we dug into our individual meals. It was a delightful combination of spinach, chicken, ricotta cheese, and fettuccine. Pasta was the order of the day, as Debbie had the Barbecued Shrimp Pasta, sweet and tangy, while Karen enjoyed one of her favorite flavor combinations in the Chicken and Cucumber Pasta.
Faithful employee Margaret makes desserts on the premises. She’d been off for a couple of days when we visited, so Noland apologized for the selection—eight choices instead of the normal twenty! The kitchen sent out a sampler, and the three of us nibbled on Chocolate Pear Tart, Rum Coconut Custard Pie, Fresh Apple Cheesecake, Pumpkin Pie, Oreo Cheesecake, Chocolate Chip Walnut Tart, Truffles, and Black Magic Cake, which has been declared “the Best in Ohio” by Ohio Magazine. With such dessert choices, entrées made to order, and a lovely river view, The Levee House Café is a treasure for today that allows guests to also treasure its yesterdays.
CHILLED CHERRY SOUP
½ cup raisins
6 thin slices orange
6 thin slices lemon
¼ cup lemon juice
1 stick cinnamon
2 cups water
2 cups sliced peaches
1½ cups sweet or sour cherries, pitted
½ cup sugar
dash of salt
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
whipped cream for garnish
Place raisins, oranges, lemons, lemon juice, cinnamon stick, and water in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Turn down heat and allow to simmer for 20 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick. Add peaches, cherries, sugar, and salt and bring to a boil. Blend cornstarch with a little water and add it to the fruit. Cook for about 1 minute until clear. Adjust sweetening if necessary. Set aside to cool, then refrigerate. Garnish with whipped cream just before serving. Serves 6.
COCONUT MOUSSE
3 cups plus 6 tablespoons milk, divided
2 cups sugar
pinch of salt
6 egg yolks, beaten
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2½ tablespoons gelatin
1½ cups grated coconut
3 cups heavy cream, whipped
1 tablespoon vanilla
toasted coconut for garnish
Place 3 cups of the milk, sugar, and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer. In a small bowl, blend egg yolks, cornstarch, and 3 tablespoons of the milk. When blended, stream mixture slowly into simmering milk and stir continuously until thick. Remove from heat. Dissolve gelatin in remaining 3 tablespoons milk. Slowly add hot milk mixture and stir well. Place in refrigerator to set. When firm, beat with an electric mixer until smooth. Add coconut, whipped cream, and vanilla and blend well. Spoon into serving glasses and garnish with toasted coconut. Serves 8 to 10.
161 NORTH HIGH STREET
COLUMBUS, OH 43215
614-228-0500
The Elevator Brewery & Draught Haus is housed in the old Columbia Building, a structure built in 1895 for commercial purposes. The Bott Brothers Manufacturing Company moved into the space in 1905 after commissioning the architectural firm of Stribling and Lum to design and build the storefront. Stained-glass arches in the Tiffany style span the front windows, with leaded-glass bands that spell out the names Bott Brothers Billiards and Bott Brothers Cigars. The Bott brothers made and sold billiard tables, bar fixtures, refrigerators, and other equipment for cafés and billiard halls. By 1909, they were conducting the largest and most prosperous business in the city. Although the brothers outfitted many bars throughout Columbus, the only remaining examples of their work are in the Elevator Brewery.
From 1905 until Prohibition in 1919, what was considered one of the finest cafés in the United States operated on these premises. During Prohibition, the establishment served milk shakes, and patrons entertained themselves by playing chess or checkers. After Prohibition’s repeal, the café reopened as The Clock Restaurant, in honor of the large timepiece just outside the front door. Even today, many Columbus residents refer to the location by that name.
The Elevator Brewery & Draught Haus, owned by Richard Stevens and his son, Ryan, takes its name from their brewery business, which they began several years prior to delving into the restaurant world. At the far end of the restaurant are antique pool tables from the eatery’s earlier days. Today, guests may enjoy a game of billiards or step up to the dartboards while waiting for their meal. Hanging on the wall nearby is a picture commissioned by Richard Stevens that depicts what the second story must have looked like in its heyday, when men fought over and bet on what happened at the forty billiard tables lining the room.
Rather than knock around the eight ball, we relaxed in our booth and enjoyed the collection of art on the walls. The senior Mr. Stevens, who has quite an eye, enjoys displaying his acquisitions for the clientele. He chatted with us until lunch was served, promising to return after we’d finished. We both thoroughly enjoyed the Potato and Bacon Soup and the Spinach, Pear, and Almond Salad. The Smoked Chicken Egg Roll, served with Apricot Dipping Sauce, was absolutely the most delicious of its kind that either of us had ever tasted. The eatery is known for its stone cooking, in which tenderloin fillets and Ahi tuna steaks are cooked on heated Finnish Tulikivi stones. The edible result is a unique gastronomic marvel. For those not quite that adventurous, the menu also includes Crab Cakes, Red-Meat Trout, and Blackberry BBQ Ribs.
On our way out, we looked at old photographs and marveled at how like the original the room still is. The ceiling is lovely in its opalescence. Behind the tiger cherry bar built by the Bott brothers, friendly bartenders still serve guests. Even the display cases still house wares. Since the Elevator Brewery’s famous Chocolate Stout Cake wasn’t available during our visit, we’ll drive down High Street on another day and stop at the clock to give it a try.
CHOCOLATE STOUT CAKE
4 sticks unsalted butter
2 cups stout beer
1¼ cups cocoa powder
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups cake flour
4 cups sugar
2½ teaspoons baking soda, sifted
4 extra-large eggs
1 cup sour cream
Chocolate Stout Frosting (see next column)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place butter, stout, and cocoa powder in a medium sauce-pan and heat until butter just melts. Set aside to cool. Sift together salt, flours, sugar, and baking soda in a large bowl. Set aside. When stout mixture is cool, place in a large mixer bowl. Mix on medium for 1 minute. Add dry ingredients all at once and mix carefully. Beat on high for 1 minute. Add eggs and sour cream, mix carefully, then beat on high for 2 minutes. Cut parchment or wax-paper circles for the bottom of four 8-inch or 9-inch round cake pans. Grease pans. Sift a small amount of additional cocoa powder and use it to coat sides of pans. Tap out excess cocoa. Place a paper circle in bottom of each pan. Divide batter evenly among pans. Bake for 20 to 35 minutes until a toothpick stuck into center of cake comes out clean. Cool cakes completely. Spread Chocolate Stout Frosting between layers and over top and sides to make a 4-layer cake. Serves 12 to 16.
CHOCOLATE STOUT
FROSTING
1½ cups heavy cream
½ cup stout beer
6 cups powdered sugar
24 ounces semisweet chocolate
2 sticks unsalted butter
¼ cup Kahlua
In a medium saucepan, combine cream and stout. Stir in sugar and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Chop chocolate in a food processor. Add butter and pulse to combine. With processor running slowly, add boiling stout mixture. Add Kahlua and process until smooth. Pour into a bowl and allow to cool, stirring occasionally. Whip for 1 to 2 minutes when cool. Yields enough frosting for one 4-layer Chocolate Stout Cake.
35 EAST MAIN STREET
TIPP CITY, OH 45371
937-667-0007
The Coldwater Café was a treasure we discovered one day while browsing the picturesque shops along Main Street. The tiny, ten-table café is reminiscent of street-side cafés in Paris, with its French country décor toile tablecloths and matching wallpaper. Visitors will note the original plank floor and the exposed bricks. One of the bricks is missing. Proprietress Betty Peachy has replaced it with an egg snuggled in its own small nest. Black-and-white plaid draperies on café rods adorn the windows, and French photographs are hung here and there on the yellow plaster walls.
One of the first things that intrigues guests about the Coldwater Café is that the chairs don’t match. Written on the menu is an explanation. It seems that when Betty Peachy opened the café, she invited close friends and family to the very first dinner. The price of admission to this gala event was … a chair. So each chair in the dining room has its own story to tell, as do many of the other items. It is interesting to note that the name of the café comes from Betty’s late father, Joe “Coldwater” Peachy. He grew up in the small mountain community of Belleville, Pennsylvania, where he built his house right next to Coldwater Creek.
The building looks much the same on the outside as it did back in the 1800s. It was erected in 1835 and became a general store under the management of Sidney Chaufee in 1840. By 1875, Albert M. Heckner took over the store. “Wholesale and Retail Dealer in Groceries and Provisions” was how he advertised himself, as was painted along the length of the building. Since those days, the structure has housed a bakery, a confectionary and ice-cream parlor, and a tailor shop. In the 1930s, the first restaurant opened here, operated by Charles Priller. It was followed by a succession of eateries until February 8, 1994, when the Coldwater Café began.
Seated at a round table in a sunny window, we prepared ourselves for a treat. A large selection of sandwiches is on the menu, all served on freshly baked breads. Or guests can choose a salad with a basket of homemade breads on the side. The Chicken Pecan Salad sounded tempting, as did the Black Bean and Rice Salad. We checked out the house specialties served in the evening. We liked the sound of the Lobster Crab Cakes with Remoulade Sauce and the Vegetable Lasagna Pinwheels, and Betty Peachy was kind enough to give us the recipes for them.
It was a difficult choice, but we eventually opted for a Chicken Pecan Salad Sandwich and a Vegetable Pita Sandwich. When they arrived, we promptly halved them so we could sample each. And we couldn’t resist trying the Coldwater Café’s signature dessert, the English Teacake with Warm Butter Sauce. It was fabulous. We’re not going to describe it. You’ll just have to visit and try it for yourself!
½ pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked and flaked
¾ pound lobster meat, cooked and chopped
¾ cup finely chopped red bell pepper
¾ cup finely chopped yellow bell pepper
¾ cup finely chopped green onions
1 cup finely chopped red onion
2¼ cups fresh breadcrumbs, divided
½ cup mayonnaise
9 tablespoons peanut oil, divided
3 cups remoulade sauce
In a medium bowl, stir together crabmeat, lobster, peppers, onions, 1½ cups of the breadcrumbs, and mayonnaise. Form into 18 cakes about 2½ inches in diameter and ½ inch thick. Place remaining breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl. Dredge 6 crab cakes 1 at a time in crumbs and transfer to a plate. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Cook crab cakes about 6 minutes until golden brown on both sides and heated through. Clean skillet after each batch. Cook remaining cakes in batches of 6 in 3 tablespoons oil. Serve with remoulade sauce. Serves 9.
VEGETABLE LASAGNA
PINWHEELS
12 ounces lasagna noodles
32-ounce can plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup chopped zucchini
1 cup chopped broccoli
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon dried red pepper, crushed
3 cups low-fat cottage cheese
4 cups marinara sauce
4 tablespoons shredded Parmesan cheese
Prepare lasagna noodles according to package directions, but do not add salt to water. Drain noodles and set aside. Drain and chop tomatoes, reserving liquid. Heat oil in a large skillet and sauté onions and garlic until golden brown. Add zucchini, broccoli, tomatoes, reserved liquid, and spices. Simmer covered for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lay 3 noodles side by side, touching each other. Layer cottage cheese and vegetable sauce on top of noodles. Roll up each noodle separately and place in a casserole dish. Continue procedure until all noodles are used. Cover noodles with marinara and top with Parmesan. Bake for 25 minutes. Serve immediately. Serves 3 to 4.
3 EAST SHARON AVENUE
GLENDALE, OH 45246
513-771-5925
When Larry Youse was working in business management and his wife, Cindy, was an advertising art director, friends urged them to open a restaurant. Finally, in the spring of 1975, the two were convinced and went out looking for a location. On their first outing, actually within the first hour of searching, they found the site that was to open on August 6, 1975, as the Grand Finale.
The building they’ve revitalized had been purchased around the turn of the twentieth century for $750 by J. J. Kelley. He established a saloon, which quickly became a popular stop along the main thoroughfare between Cincinnati and Dayton, now State Route 747. Photos show a horse-drawn Wiedemann beer wagon making deliveries in front of the tavern. Prohibition closed the bar, but Kelley’s daughters remained in business by running a grocery store on this street corner in Glendale. Many residents remember stopping in for penny candy after school. Kelley’s Corner Grocery remained until 1970.
When the Youses made their discovery in April 1975, canned goods still lined the shelves. Larry and Cindy chose to restore much of what remained, including the tin-tile ceiling. Victorian bric-a-brac, a bounty of fresh flowers, brass lanterns, and antique tables and chairs round out the décor of the main dining areas. Upstairs is a veritable treasure trove of antiques. This is the fun and funky bar area of the restaurant, no doubt called “the Attic” because it is full of an eclectic mix of memorabilia such as antique art-work, prams, skates, bowling pins, and much, much more.
We were seated in an enclosed back-porch area, where French doors and striped awnings give way to year-round patio dining. Hanging plants created a garden feel, and a collection of birdcages added a whimsical touch. Cindy’s beautiful artwork is displayed throughout this dining area.
In the late 1970s, five ambitious young people joined the Youses’ management team. Today, those same talented professionals are still running the Grand Finale. Virginia Chambers, Joe and Elise Mills, Victoria Ray-buck, and Chuck Emmons now proudly share the ownership of this eatery.
When the restaurant first opened, crepes and desserts were the mainstays of the menu. Examples of the crepes include Shrimp Lawrence Crepes, consisting of shrimp and diced asparagus in a mild Paprika Sauce, and Crepes Coq au Vin, filled with chicken breast in White Wine Sauce with toasted almonds. The menu has expanded to include such dishes as Artichoke Fritters, Chicken Ginger, and Veal Morel. Other items that we found particularly tempting were the Herbed Filet Mignon Brochette and the Shrimp Tango in Green Peppercorn Sauce.
The name Grand Finale was chosen for the restaurant to showcase Larry’s luscious award-winning desserts. Chocolate Cordial Pie, Caramel Custard, Red Raspberry and White Chocolate Fudge Pie, and Coconut and Macadamia Nut Fudge Pie are all available for your sweet tooth. We opted for the Limelight Pie, a fresh lime pie in a Hazelnut Crust. What will your grand finale be?
GRAND TRIFLE
4 cups pound cake or yellow cake chunks
1 cup fresh or frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed
½ cup port wine
½ cup cream sherry
8 large scoops vanilla ice cream
1 cup sweetened raspberry purée
1½ to 2 cups heavy cream, whipped
¼ cup slivered almonds, toasted
8 maraschino or chocolate-covered cherries for garnish
In 8 large brandy snifters or a 2-quart clear-glass bowl, layer first 8 ingredients in the order given. Garnish with cherries. Chill at least 1 hour to blend flavors. Serves 8.
STEAK SALAD ANNIE
6-ounce filet mignon, trimmed
¾ cup vinaigrette dressing
3 cloves garlic, finely diced
3 shakes hot sauce
3 cups mixed salad greens
½ cup thinly sliced mushrooms
½ cup cubed Swiss cheese
12 medium Gulf shrimp, cooked and chilled
4 strips crisp bacon, crumbled
1 scallion, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons chopped parsley
Char-grill filet mignon medium-rare. Thinly slice into bite-sized pieces. Combine vinaigrette, garlic, and hot sauce. Marinate meat in this mixture for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Arrange greens in a chilled serving bowl. Top with mushrooms and cheese. Arrange shrimp in a circle, then place filet mignon in center. Sprinkle with bacon, scallions, and parsley. Use reserved marinade to dress salad. Serves 2 as an entrée or 4 as a side salad.
112 COURT STREET
POMEROY, OH 45767
740-992-6840
Former Jefferson Airplane band member Jorma Kaukonen occasionally stops by to play a riff. Other nationally known musicians such as Eddy “the Chief” Clearwater have also performed at the Court Street Grill. Artists on their way from a performance in Pittsburgh to their next show in Cincinnati or Indianapolis frequently play for an evening. The restaurant, in conjunction with the Pomeroy Blues & Jazz Society (known as “PB&J”), sponsors free summer concerts. Through the years, the influence of PB&J has spread, and it now promotes the Big Bend Blues Bash, a multi-day event that is one of the largest blues festivals in Ohio. Ohio Magazine has recognized the Pomeroy destination as “The Best Place to Catch the Blues!”
During our first visit to Court Street Grill, we dined with Karin Johnson of the Meigs County Tourism Board and thoroughly enjoyed chatting with her and owner Jackie Welker. Karen tried the soup of the day, Chicken Tortilla, topped with shredded cheddar cheese and a dollop of sour cream. It had just enough zing and was delicious. We sampled the Yamma Damma Doo’s, french-fried sweet potatoes glazed with a brown-sugar mixture. Debbie may have finally found a way to get her family to eat sweet potatoes for Thanksgiving! We shared the Court Street Griller, a large grilled ham sandwich topped with melted Swiss, cheddar, and provolone cheeses. It was served with light, crunchy potato chips on the side and a large stack of napkins. The food here is meant to be enjoyed right down to the last drop on your chin. Save those napkins for dinner, too, as the Baby Back Ribs are quite tasty. Other entrées include seafood and steak selections.
After all that food, we certainly didn’t have room to try the famous Bungtown Burger, a past winner at the Amsterdam Burger Festival. The name Bungtown comes from the community of Burlingham, just down the road from Pomeroy. According to one story, during Prohibition, many of Burlingham’s influential women went around removing the bungs, or corks, from their husbands’ stashes of liquor. Word spread, and from that day on, locals have called the area Bungtown. As we sat and enjoyed the casual atmosphere of the restaurant, Jackie said he didn’t even know Bungtown wasn’t the formal name until someone mentioned Burlingham to him when he was in high school. Another version about the origin of the name Bungtown relates to Burlingham being home to quite a few moonshiners and bootleggers. Local men knew if they wanted to imbibe, all they needed to do was head to Burlingham to get “bunged up.” Both stories are just whimsical enough to put a smile on your face.
The restaurant was fashioned from a building constructed in 1864. The space once housed a pharmacy but has been a restaurant of some sort since 1935. Jackie says he and his regulars enjoy the distressed look of the original brick walls, the plank floor, and the once-painted tin ceiling. It’s an unpretentious tavern with faithful customers greeted by first name as they walk in.
SUPER SECRET SLAW
½ head cabbage
4 red peppers
4 green peppers
½ pound carrots
½ bunch celery
3 medium onions
1½ cups coarse salt
6¼ cups sugar
1 cup white vinegar
Shred vegetables and mix thoroughly in a large bowl. Add salt and stir. Let stand for at least 4 hours. To strain out remaining salt, place vegetables in a colander and rinse; press and squeeze firmly to remove salt. Return vegetables to bowl. Add sugar and vinegar, mixing thoroughly. Serves 12 generously as a side dish.
YAMMA DAMMA DOO’S
vegetable oil
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and julienned
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter, melted
Heat oil to approximately 350 degrees in a medium pot. Deep-fry sweet potatoes for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from oil and drain. Sprinkle with brown sugar and drizzle with butter. Serves 2.
CHUM BUCKET
12 ounces beer
1 pound large shrimp, shells on
1 tablespoon pickling spice
1 to 2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning
1 lemon, quartered
¼ cup cocktail sauce
¼ cup drawn butter
In a medium saucepan, bring beer to a boil. Add shrimp and pickling spice. Boil for about 4 minutes; don’t overcook shrimp! Drain shrimp, then toss in Cajun seasoning. Serve with lemon quarters, cocktail sauce, and drawn butter. Serves 2 as an entrée or 4 as an appetizer.
80 NORTH PAINT STREET
CHILLICOTHE, OH 45601
740-779-0440
This delightful coffee house is located in the Preservation District of downtown Chilli-cothe. Surrounded by other historic buildings and just a short walk from Yoctangee Park, it is ideally located for dropping in for a steaming cup of coffee on a sunny morning. Constructed in the 1860s, the building once housed The Dreamland, a silent-movie house that was very popular with local residents at the turn of the twentieth century. Unfortunately, once talkies were in vogue, The Dreamland closed and audiences moved to larger theaters to enjoy their favorite film stars. This space was then occupied by Schlegel’s Jewelers. Visitors to the building today can still see the original name in stained glass over the front door. The jewelry store was successful, continuing in business until the early 1970s. The building then remained vacant for two decades.
In the mid-1990s, Bob Etling took over the building and began a complete restoration. The second and third floors have been turned into upscale apartments, while Schlegel’s Coffee House is housed on the first floor. This three-story building is typical of stores of its era—long and thin. The first floor, painted in pale colors and complemented by a white tray ceiling, feels cool and spacious. Old-fashioned ice-cream-parlor seating adds charm, as do the many antiques and curios located around the room.
The current owner was careful to restore the ground floor with an eye to the past. Incorporated into the décor are the original Art Deco wall sconces and the old popcorn machine from Chillicothe’s Royal Theater. An old theater seat and an automatic ticket taker also remind visitors of the building’s illustrious past. Other interesting artifacts include an old coffee percolator, a coffee grinder located in the window display, and an old phone booth. A shiny copper espresso machine is located on a very attractive antique backbar restored to its original 1890s shine. Recovered from the old Miller’s Café, located next to Poland Park in Chillicothe, it looks wonderful.
To the right of the backbar is a large pastry case. We stood and examined the goodies, trying to decide among Muffins, Biscotti, Cookies, and a variety of sumptuous Cakes and Tortes. Since Schlegel’s advertises “the finest coffees and desserts that Chillicothe has to offer,” we were looking forward to our selection. Debbie eventually chose a slice of Caramel Pecan Cheesecake, and Karen, who almost always opts for chocolate on such occasions, chose a slice of Chocolate Truffle Cheesecake. Both selections were yummy. There was a large selection of Coffees, Lattes, Espressos, Cappuccinos, Teas, and Phosphates from which to choose. Karen picked a Mocha Latte, which was lovely. Debbie opted for the more adventurous Cherry Italian Cream Soda, which also got top marks. It is always a treat to find such a building so lovingly restored. Why don’t you treat yourself to an experience you won’t forget?
CAFE MOCHA
scant ¼ cup espresso
scant ¼ cup caramel syrup
1 cup chocolate milk
whipped cream as desired
Combine espresso, caramel syrup, and chocolate milk. Steam. Pour into a large mug and top with whipped cream. Serves 1.
PIÑA COLADA ITALIAN
CREAM SODA
½ cup very small ice cubes
2 tablespoons coconut syrup
2 tablespoons pineapple syrup
scant ¼ cup half-and-half
1 cup sparkling water
whipped cream as desired
Put ice cubes into a 12-ounce glass. In a mixing cup, combine syrups and half-and-half and stir well. Mix with sparkling water. Pour over ice and top with whipped cream. Serves 1.
524 CLINTON STREET
DEFIANCE, OH 43512
419-782-1116
My mother and I arrived on a July morning, ready for a hearty breakfast. We shared a Farmer’s Omelet, filled with ham, cheese, and potatoes, as well as a bowl of Biscuits and Gravy. We were both stuffed and still left a significant amount of food on our plates. For later in the day, there is a wide variety of sandwiches and burgers on the menu, almost thirty in all, including a Reuben, which would have been my choice. The dinner menu offers appetizers such as Chili Cheese Fries, Cheese-Filled Bread Stix, and Fried Pickle Spears, one of Karen’s favorites. Entrée selections range from chicken and chops to steaks and seafood. Each is served with a potato, a choice of a side dish, and dinner rolls. If I lived in the area, I’d be a regular on Friday nights for the Walleye special.
Constructed in the late 1880s, the building that houses Kissner’s was home to a dry-goods and grocery store for many years. In 1901, George Wilsnoff opened a tavern here. A few years later, the ornate mahogany-and-cherry backbar, built by the Brunswick-Balke-Collender company, took its place along one of the establishment’s long walls. There it sits today, still as magnificent as it was more than one hundred years ago. Around 1919, the Van Brackel family took over. With Prohibition in full force, they focused on the breakfast and lunch trade, building a thriving business. During the 1920s, the establishment passed into the hands of Bill Widmer, and then J. M. Kissner and Sons on October 30, 1928. They continued the Van Brackels’ focus, the establishment becoming known as “the working man’s place to eat.”
Although Prohibition outlawed the serving of alcoholic beverages, certain customers of good standing were able to get real beer rather than the nonalcoholic variety known as “near beer.” Bottles of unmarked home brew and labeled bottles of near beer were cooled in water. After a while, the labels fell off the near beer and floated to the top of the water. The detached labels were then adhered to previously unmarked bottles of home brew so that authorities would be none the wiser.
J. M. Kissner and Sons was hit hard by the Depression, just as other businesses were. It survived by continuing to cater to the working man, allowing anyone who was employed to run a tab, charging meals until payday rolled around each week. From the end of World War II into the early 1950s, the same service was available to migrant workers newly located in the area. Kissner’s worked together with local clergy, who often sent folks in to get a hot meal and a little help in getting back on their feet.
Kissner’s got a little help of its own from a local police officer back in the 1980s. He was making his rounds through town one evening after the restaurant had closed for the day. As he cruised past, he noticed a glow that wasn’t quite right, got out of his car, and peered in the front window for closer inspection. The glare he’d seen happened to be flames reflected in the mirror of the backbar. Had he been just a few minutes later, smoke would have obliterated the glow, and that backbar and Kissner’s could easily have been destroyed.
POTATOES MARGARET
5 or 6 medium potatoes
salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon dried onion
1 cup sour cream
1 cup milk
1 cup shredded cheese
Cook potatoes until firm but not mushy. Slice. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 10-by-6-by-2-inch baking dish. Place half the potatoes in the baking dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a medium bowl, mix together onions, sour cream, and milk. Spread half the mixture over potatoes. Sprinkle with half the shredded cheese. Repeat the layers. Place in oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Serves 6.
CHICKEN AND NOODLES
3 or 4 chicken legs
3 tablespoons chicken base, divided
1½ teaspoons pepper
1 bay leaf
1 stalk celery
16 cups water
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon parsley
2 carrots
1¼ pounds noodles
In a stockpot, combine chicken legs, 1 tablespoon chicken base, pepper, bay leaf, celery, water, salt, parsley, and carrots. Simmer for 2 hours. Strain broth and debone chicken. Return broth and chicken to stockpot. Add remaining chicken base and additional salt to taste. Bring to a boil. Add noodles and continue to boil gently until noodles are tender. Serves 4 to 6.
602 LAGRANGE AT HURON
TOLEDO, OH 43604
419-246-3466
Mickey Finn’s is a very friendly pub. Everyone in the place greeted us when we walked in, even though we had never been there before. We patted the dog and took our seats in one of the high-backed wooden booths. Marveling at the long, curvy bar that extends almost the full length of the pub, we eventually ordered a pint of Old Speckled for my husband, Gordon, and a pint of Blackthorn Cider for me. We both felt right at home immediately and started to relax after our hard day.
The menu here is short, but every item is delicious. A friend had highly recommended the Onion Rings, served with Marinara Sauce, and she was right—they were absolutely wonderful. Gordon really enjoyed his Fish and Chips, and I was equally delighted with my Mickey Finn Burger, served with Donegal Fries. There was only one dessert on the menu, and we just couldn’t resist sharing a slice of Baileys Irish Cream Cheesecake. I was sorry that Debbie could not join us on this occasion. I know she’d have loved it.
This interesting red brick building was constructed sometime in the early 1870s by Ignatius Wernet and John Streicher. We could not discover the purpose for which it was built, but records show that from 1879 to 1933, the ground floor was home to a grocery store, and the floors above housed several apartments. The grocery store was fairly successful. However, when the end of Prohibition came and the owners acquired one of the first liquor licenses in Toledo, everything changed. The grocery store began to sell alcoholic beverages, changed its name to Bouton’s Café, and stayed in continuous operation for the next sixty-three years.
In 1996, Mickey Finn purchased the property, not knowing what surprises were in store for him during the massive renovation of the building. One of the first things to go was the old hung ceiling. As it was removed, the original tin ceiling was revealed. Three almost perfectly intact windows were discovered as the old siding was pulled off the outside of the building. Most interesting of all was the discovery—once all the inside paneling had been removed—of a wooden staircase and an unexpected archway leading to the building next door. Great care was taken to recondition the brick walls. Old photographs have been hung on the walls, and fans slowly whirl above. Even the neon Bouton’s Café sign still hangs at one of the windows. The final result easily transports guests back to the 1870s.
Through the newly revealed archway is a large room just made for entertainment. It has a raised stage in one corner, a billiards table in another, and plenty of small tables and chairs. Tricia and Mickey Finn are proud to offer the finest in local and international entertainment. There’s something for everyone—from the well-stocked bar and the delicious pub grub to “Gorilla Poker” to Wolfstone, a Celtic rock band from Scotland. Everyone is sure to receive a warm welcome at Mickey Finn’s Pub.
SMASHLEY’S MARTINI
4 tablespoons Baileys Irish Cream
2 tablespoons Kahlua
2 tablespoons Frangelico
3 tablespoons vanilla Stolichnaya
splash of half-and-half
4 maraschino cherries
Place all ingredients except cherries into an ice-filled cocktail shaker and shake vigorously for 10 seconds. Place 2 cherries on a cocktail stick at the bottom of each of 2 chilled martini glasses. Pour martini mixture equally into glasses. Serves 2.
GALWAY TURKEY
SANDWICH
1 kaiser roll
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
2 slices Swiss cheese
1 small tomato
1 large lettuce leaf
3 slices smoked turkey breast
Cut roll in two. Spread both cut sides with mayonnaise. Place cheese slices on bottom half of roll. Slice tomato and place on top of cheese. Tear lettuce into roll-sized pieces and place on top of tomato. Place turkey slices on top of lettuce. Place top half of roll onto turkey and serve. Serves 1.
