Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, was a Cincinnati resident. The book, which relates the story of an escaping slave and one of the stops she finds on the Underground Railroad, was born out of a visit that Harriet made to Kentucky. She was so moved by the conditions she witnessed in her first experience with slavery that she returned to Ohio to pen the story. The establishments in this chapter are linked by their role as stops on the Underground Railroad, where slaves on the run from authorities in the South could rest before continuing their quest for freedom.
SPREAD EAGLE TAVERN
10150 HISTORIC PLYMOUTH STREET
HANOVERTON, OH 44423
330-223-1583
With one quick turn off US Route 30 onto Historic Plymouth Street, the modern world disappears. It wouldn’t have surprised me if my minivan had been transformed into a horse and carriage without a single abracadabra having been uttered. At the end of the block sits the Spread Eagle Tavern. Access to the restaurant is around back, where guests enter through an adorable log cabin. This is the restored stable of the property, rebuilt by owner Pete Johnson from authentic materials of the era. Booth seating has been crafted from old horse stalls, and a cozy nook holds the old blacksmith’s fireplace. The tables were handcrafted, as was the cherry paneling on the walls. If you know where to look in a piece of wood near the door, you’ll see part of a bullet found by the craftsman as he planed the wood. The slug was buried deep in a tree on his property, which he cut for this specific purpose.
As I toured, I found one dining room as interesting as the next. The one with the large kitchen fireplace is particularly homey. Through that room and into the main part of the old inn is the Hanover Room. One of the photos on the wall is of the daughter of the first owner. According to many reports, her presence is still felt. She was quite a music student in her day and is still credited with playing the piano at odd times and with turning radios on and off inexplicably.
Across the street is Dr. Robertson’s house, once a stop on the Underground Railroad. The home was built with a secret room accessible only from an exterior second-story window. Dr. Robertson didn’t accept payment for his services to escaping slaves. Instead, they were required to rob graves and bring back the cadavers to further the doctor’s study of his profession. Tunnels connected the doctor’s house to others on the street, including the Spread Eagle Tavern.
Downstairs in the tavern is Gideon Gaver’s Rathskeller, where the old tunnels and crawlspaces are lined with bricks from Mr. Gaver’s mansion. Pete Johnson dismantled the home, cleaned the bricks, refired them for strength, and then put them to use in this lovely series of rooms. Upstairs once again, I ordered the Country Pâté, served with gherkins and Lingonberry Sauce. It was delicious but quite a large serving, so I saved half to share with Karen, who was unable to accompany me. That was followed by the excellent Sierra Salad.
As I munched, I contemplated what the politicians might have chosen when they were here. Republicans as far back as Abraham Lincoln have visited. George W. Bush even paid a visit while stumping the campaign trail in 2000. Regardless of guests’ political affiliations, the fabulous ambiance and wonderful food of the Spread Eagle Tavern are things everyone can agree upon.
SIERRA SALAD
¾ cup olive oil
juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
8-ounce bag mixed greens
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
1 cup Chinese noodles
1 cup pecans, roasted
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together oil, lime juice, poppy seeds, ginger, vinegar, and soy sauce. Just before serving, whisk once more. Add remaining ingredients and toss gently until all greens are coated. Serves 8.
CHICKEN POT PIE
1 stick butter
2 cups diced onion
2 cups diced carrots
2 cups diced celery
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
¼ cup flour
8 cups chicken stock
2 cups diced potatoes
2½ pounds chicken breasts, boned and diced
1 cup cream
1 cup frozen peas
salt and pepper to taste
4 sheets puff pastry
Melt butter in a large saucepan. Add onions, carrots, celery, thyme, and bay leaf. Sweat vegetables but do not burn. Add flour and stir. Add chicken stock, potatoes, chicken, cream, and peas. Stir. Simmer for 15 minutes. Add salt and pepper. Cut puff pastry to size required for top of individual pot-pie dishes. Place pastry on a greased cookie sheet and bake as per directions on package. Divide chicken mixture evenly among 8 individual pot-pie dishes and place a baked pastry on top of each. Serve immediately. Serves 8.
123 NORTH MARKET STREET
WAVERLY, OH 45690
740-947-2181
When the Ohio & Erie Canal was completed in 1832, James Emmitt quickly saw its business potential. Over the next twenty years, he made a fortune hauling grain, operating a mill, and building a distillery. Even with all this development, he felt like Waverly’s economic growth would be limited as long as the county courthouse was located in Piketon. He and a group of Waverly businessmen agreed to finance the process of petitioning the Ohio General Assembly in an effort to convince it to move the county seat, a goal they later accomplished.
Emmitt was so sure of his eventual success that he commissioned a new hotel to be built along the canal at the corner of Water and Market streets. In the construction of the hotel, Emmitt employed a master carpenter who had come to Pike County in the early 1830s. The superb workmanship of Madison Hemings was unparalleled in the area. Not only is Hemings of interest because of his skill, but also because of his parentage. It was rumored at the time—and never denied—that he was the son of Thomas Jefferson and a slave by the name of Sally Hemings. Research over the years has further substantiated that lineage.
Upon completion, the Emmitt House quickly developed a reputation as a fine hotel. It was a particular favorite of hardware and dry-goods salesmen, who would display their sample cases in the front room, known as the Drummer’s Room.
Today, that room is still known by the same name, though it contains a dining area rather than wares. There are several other dining rooms as well, including The Lounge with its large mural of area sights, The New Room, which is not so new anymore, though the name stuck, and the Bar and Booth area. Through the lobby in the same part of the hotel as the Drummer’s Room are The Parlor and The Canal Room, where we were seated. The Canal Room boasts lovely patterned tin walls, in addition to the tin ceiling also visible in the other dining rooms.
Karen chose the Mexican Chicken, served with side dishes of Spanish Rice and tortilla chips topped with melted cheese. It was delicious. Debbie chose the Warm Cashew Chicken Salad, served with a wonderfully moist Carrot Muffin. When it came time for dessert, Karen’s eyes were immediately alight when she noticed the Fried Ice Cream on the menu.
Prior to dinner, we’d toured the old hotel from top to bottom. In the basement, we saw the doorway that led to a tunnel stretching under US Route 23. Locals believe it was intended for escaping slaves, allowing them to move between the hotel and Emmitt’s office and home down the street. We didn’t meet the female ghost that many staff members and the bank employees next door have experienced. Don’t let the faces at the upper windows fool you. They’re just a touch of whimsy left over from previous owners.
EMMITT HOUSE CHILI
3½ pounds ground beef
1 large onion, chopped
green pepper, chopped
red pepper, chopped
2 pounds canned crushed tomatoes
1 packet taco seasoning
2 cups salsa
2½ tablespoons sugar
Brown ground beef in a large pot until slightly pink. Add onions and peppers and cook over medium heat until beef is thoroughly cooked. Drain. Return mixture to pot and add remaining ingredients. Simmer slowly for at least 1 hour, stirring frequently. Serves 10 to 12.
MEAT SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTI
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1½ pounds ground beef
1 pound sausage
3 cups chopped fresh tomatoes
1½ pounds canned crushed tomatoes
2 cups tomato purée
2½ tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons oregano
1½ tablespoons salt
½ tablespoon pepper
1 bay leaf
In a large pot, cook onions and garlic in olive oil until tender. Add beef and sausage and cook until no pink remains. Remove from heat and drain. Return mixture to pot and add remaining ingredients. Cook over medium heat for about 1 hour. Discard bay leaf. Serves 10.
8092 COLUMBIA ROAD
OLMSTED FALLS, OH 44233
440-235-1223
Clementine’s was originated by two very enterprising women, Anne Shier Klintworth and Doris Rundle. They began by managing their own wholesale bakery, creating a large number of cakes and pastries for local hotels and restaurants. However, they wanted to sell their wares directly to the general public and thought that a Victorian tearoom would be ideal. Started as a place that served soup and bread, high tea, and a selection of wonderful teas and coffees, Clementine’s was very soon a great success. Gradually, the menu was expanded to include sandwiches and salads, and a Victorian restaurant emerged.
Today, Clementine’s is located in the very center of Grand Pacific Junction. This small area is filled with beautiful historic buildings and interesting shops, all linked by brick walkways. The buildings have been lovingly restored by Clint Williams, who owns the local realty company. The largest building is the Grand Pacific Hotel, built in the 1830s. Constructed as a girls’ seminary, it was moved across the river to its current location in 1858 and is rumored to have been a stop on the Underground Railroad. Clementine’s is located in a late-1800s building that was at one time a livery stable for visitors to the Grand Pacific Hotel.
We sat in the back parlor, known as the Garden Room. This charming room has its original wide-plank floors and an overhanging hayloft above the sliding livery door. It is attractively decorated with tables and chairs and hanging plants. Small rugs and just a hint or two of lace at the windows and on the mantels give the room a warm, cozy feel. The tall loft ladder set against the wall in one corner of the room reminds guests of the original use of the building.
We talked with Doris about her love for this old building as we sipped our choice of teas—traditional Earl Grey Tea with just a hint of bergamot oil for Karen and a refreshing Berry Jubilee Tea for Debbie. Several soups and a large number of salads and sandwiches are on the menu. Debbie enjoyed her Broccoli Quiche, made with Clementine’s Hash Brown Potato Crust and served with a large helping of seasonal fresh fruit. Karen chose the Roasted Eggplant Sandwich, which was made with roasted red peppers and Basil Aioli and served with creamy Macaroni Salad. The list of desserts was enormous. We had considerable difficulty in choosing just one to sample. Eventually, we got up from our table and wandered out to the cake case in the shop to see the marvelous selection for ourselves. Finally selecting a Lemon Tart to share, we were not disappointed. The pastry was crumbly, and the lemon filling was tangy and mouth-wateringly good.
There is plenty to see here. Guests enjoy not only the fabulous pastries they can purchase and take home but also the shelves and tables upstairs stocked with fine china and Victoriana. The large glass-fronted case at the bottom of the staircase contains the most delectable homemade chocolates. We bet you won’t be able to resist one!
GRANDMA’S STUFFED
CABBAGE SOUP
2 cups diced onions
1½ pounds ground beef
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup brown sugar
1 small head cabbage, diced
2 14½-ounce cans diced tomatoes
4 cups beef broth
2 28-ounce cans tomato sauce
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 cups cooked white rice
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
croutons for garnish
In a large soup pot, sauté onions and ground beef in oil until meat is browned. Do not drain. Add sugar and cabbage and mix well. Add next 4 ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours. Add rice and simmer 10 more minutes. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with croutons. Serves 12.
SAUSAGE AND FENNEL
SOUP WITH PASTA
1 pound sweet Italian sausage
1 bulb fennel
¾ cup diced onions
1½ teaspoons minced garlic
3 tablespoons olive oil
14½-ounce can diced tomatoes
14½-ounce can crushed tomatoes
4 cups chicken broth
¾ cup orzo
2 cups fresh spinach, stemmed and torn into small pieces
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Asiago cheese for garnish
In a large skillet, sauté sausage until well browned, breaking into small pieces. Drain sausage and set aside. Cut off top of fennel. Wash and dice white part of bulb. Sauté fennel, onions, and garlic in olive oil until onions are soft and translucent. Add diced tomatoes, crushed tomatoes, and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Add sausage and orzo and cook until orzo is just done. Add spinach and cook another 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with Asiago. Serves 12.
792 MENTOR AVENUE
PAINESVILLE, OH 44077
440-354-8200
The Prime Rib and the Potato Leek Soup are house specialties, made from recipes found in the attic of this structure. The inn, built by Joseph Rider, is situated along US Route 20, which was once the Oregon Trail. Stagecoach stops were located every sixty to seventy miles—the distance a horse could travel in a day. Registers from the inn show that as many as one hundred guests were there in a single day. How this was accomplished in the limited space available is quite a puzzlement until you consider that many of the stagecoach drivers stayed only about four hours, just long enough to bathe, eat, and catch a couple of hours of shuteye on narrow benches upstairs. The rooms for today’s guests are much more attractive, spacious, and comfortable.
Mr. Rider came to the area as part of a surveying team for the Connecticut Land Company. He was accompanied by Mr. Moses Cleveland, Mr. Willoughby, and Mr. Paine. Their efforts made Lake County the first planned urban community in the world. We found the history behind this absolutely fascinating. Much of Connecticut was pro-British, the government of the colony technically being a proprietorship of the king. Prior to and during the Revolutionary War, the primary currency was pounds sterling. Of course, after the war, that currency was worthless here, and an alternate way to pay the soldiers was needed. The Connecticut Land Company had investors from other states, and so had acceptable currency. The company purchased property in this area, which it used to pay the soldiers. Within five years of beginning their endeavor, these gentlemen had taken the area from log cabins to clapboard houses and an organized system of streets.
The War of 1812 impacted the area, too. A local army company was commissioned into the navy. The members of that company were attacked at Put-In Bay before they had been trained in naval tactics, so they fought as soldiers would. This caught the British quite by surprise, resulting in an American victory.
Rider’s 1812 Inn also figured prominently in the Underground Railroad. Estimates indicate that three thousand slaves went through its basement. Participation in the abolitionist movement in this area was multifaceted. Some chose to help because of their abhorrence of slavery. Others, tired of being undersold by crops from slave states, participated in the Underground Railroad in an attempt to reduce competition for their Ohio crops, farmed with paid labor.
The table in the main dining room at which we were seated was above one of the basement tunnels used for escape. The room was decorated with light blue and cream wainscoting. Karen enjoyed the creamy Lemon Cake and Debbie reveled in the White Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake as we discovered one historical fact after another. Our favorite piece of information concerned Harvey Johnson. Mr. Johnson was a slave who made his way to freedom via the inn. After the Civil War, he returned to Painesville, where his son and grandson became successful businessmen. Wendell Walker, his great-great-grandson, served as the president of Painesville’s city council. Now, that’s a success story.
ORANGE ROUGHY
STUFFED WITH SMOKED
SALMON MOUSSE
4 ounces smoked salmon
1 egg
¼ cup heavy whipping cream
salt and pepper to taste
brandy to taste
2 4- to 6-ounce orange roughy fillets
Purée salmon in a food processor. Add egg and cream. Add salt and pepper and brandy. Blend well. Set aside and chill. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a baking pan. Spoon mousse equally into center of fillets. Roll and secure. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Serves 2.
FROSTED PUMPKIN
PECAN DROP COOKIES
2 sticks butter, room temperature
1 egg
1 cup canned pumpkin
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
teaspoon allspice
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup pecans
¾ stick butter, melted
1 cup brown sugar
2 cups powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cream together butter and egg. When light and fluffy, add pumpkin, sugar, cinnamon, salt, and allspice. Mix in flour, baking soda, and pecans and blend until smooth. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto a baking sheet. You won’t need to leave a lot of space between cookies, as they won’t spread. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. In a small saucepan, cook melted butter and brown sugar until smooth. Blend with powdered sugar and vanilla. Cool slightly before using. Frost cooled cookies. Yields approximately 4 dozen cookies.
Note: Recipes reproduced with permission of Rider’s 1812 Inn.
13664 PEARL ROAD
STRONGSVILLE, OH 44136
440-572-1111
Ebenezer Pomeroy and his wife, Violatra, introduced “Pomeroy hospitality” when they opened a tavern in 1822. Their son, Alanson, and his wife, Keziah, continued the tradition after Ebenezer met his death, thrown from a wagon when his horse shied.
Alanson was active in community affairs as a Strongsville trustee and justice of the peace. In 1850, three years after building a large manor house, he established the Strongsville General Store adjacent to his home. This area was known as Town Square, because it was here that people met and socialized. Men pulled chairs up to the potbelly stove at the store, waiting for the stagecoach to bring the newspaper, which Alanson’s ten-year-old daughter would read.
The citizens of Strongsville were avid supporters of the abolitionist cause. “Pomeroy hospitality” extended to escaping slaves. Harlan Pomeroy recalled seeing his mother carrying trays of food to the cellar. At the time, no explanation was given to the children. Later, Alanson explained to Harlan that slaves were brought from Oberlin by night, hidden in a load of hay. They were then harbored in the cellar until notice was received that a “Freedom Boat” would be leaving. The runaways were loaded again amid the hay and taken to nearby Rocky Road, where they boarded a boat bound for Canada.
The Pomeroys opened their home at every turn, including Sunday afternoons. Many members of the Congregation church traveled too far to go home between the morning and afternoon services. Those families were invited to share Sunday dinner with the Pomeroys before returning to worship.
Members of the family lived in the home until Gertrude, granddaughter of Alanson, moved to Florida in 1963. Left empty, the structure quickly began to decline. In 1966, during preparations for the town’s sesquicentennial, the local Women’s League developed a plan to open the house for viewing. Donations came from all corners of the community, but the effort failed to raise enough money to save the home. A second open house was held, but by the early 1970s, efforts to prevent its destruction seemed hopeless.
In June 1975, about the same time that the home went on the National Register of Historic Places, Don Strong realized the potential of the property as a restaurant. Restoration began in 1979. It included revitalizing the original interior woodwork around the doors and windows. The stair rail had to be re-created from the example of a single spindle found floating in the flooded basement.
We were seated in deep wing chairs at a cozy table in the main dining room, known as “The Library.” Across the room were booth areas, each its own separate nook complete with book-laden shelves. A large fireplace at one end of the room and rich cherry paneling completed the warm ambiance.
Seafood is the house specialty, with choices changing daily. The Voodoo Shrimp—bacon-wrapped shrimp roasted with Jamaican Curry Marinade—made our mouths water. Never one to pass up mangoes, Karen ordered the Mango Shrimp Salad, which was beautifully presented and equally delicious. The spirit of “Pomeroy hospitality” lives on in this place full of history and excellent food.
SAMBUCA-SEARED
DIVER SCALLOPS
¼ cup olive oil
20 scallops
½ cup flour
¼ cup sambuca
Roasted Red Pepper Brie Cream (see below)
fresh greens
Heat olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Dust scallops lightly in flour. Sauté scallops until brown. Pour sambuca into pan to deglaze. On each of 4 plates, place 5 scallops in a pool of Roasted Red Pepper Brie Cream. Garnish with fresh greens or other items of choice. Serves 4 as an appetizer.
ROASTED RED PEPPER
BRIE CREAM
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon minced fresh garlic
1 tablespoon roasted and diced shallots
2 cups heavy cream
½ cup lobster stock
6-ounce wheel Brie with rind
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 roasted red peppers, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
salt and pepper to taste
Heat oil in a medium saucepan and lightly brown garlic. Add shallots, cream, and stock. Reduce by half and remove from heat. Stir in Brie, tomato paste, roasted peppers, and thyme. Purée in a blender until smooth. Add salt and pepper. Yields approximately 2 cups.
MANGO SHRIMP SALAD
1 pound 70-110 count shrimp, cooked, shelled, and deveined
1 cup mayonnaise
1 cup diced mango
½ cup chopped pecans
cup raisins
½ bunch scallions, finely diced
2 teaspoons minced cilantro
¼ cup honey
1 tablespoon finely diced red onion
mixed greens
Blot shrimp with a towel to remove excess moisture. Combine all ingredients except greens. Refrigerate. Serve atop mixed greens or as desired. Serves 4.
261 WEST HIGH AVENUE
NEW PHILADELPHIA, OH 44663
330-339-4444
Local residents remember the house at 261 West High Avenue as the Board of Education Building. Others have known it as the Evans or the Broadhurst Funeral Home. Today, it is Dante’s Pizza & Pasta House.
At one time, Augustus Beyer owned the home. At the age of twenty-two, he entered the milling business in Michigan. In 1862, he returned home to New Philadelphia and continued his profession. He purchased River Mills and established a new milling system, the second “All Roller” mill in Ohio. The mill continued successfully for thirty-five years until fire destroyed it in 1897. Beyer rebounded by building the Tuscarawas Electric Power and Light Company on the same site. He received an exclusive contract to furnish electric lights to the communities of Canal Dover (now Dover) and New Philadelphia, which resulted in New Philadelphia’s being labeled the “Best Lighted City in Ohio.” The first home to receive electricity was that of Beyer himself.
He purchased the home in 1884 from George Dougherty, who had owned the property since 1848. The exact date of construction is unknown, although some records indicate the 1860s. Features of the house discovered during renovation for Dante’s Pizza suggest that it was built slightly earlier. A tunnel leads from the basement away from the house, under what is now the parking lot. During the construction of the parking lot, a piece of machinery tipped into a room-sized space when the earth gave way. Dan Drabik, who owns Dante’s with his wife, Betty, asked around to see if anyone knew about the room. A few stories circulated about escaping slaves being hidden there. Others had heard about a rock garden in that location with a large rock that pivoted to cover a hole leading to the tunnel.
The history of this home-cum-restaurant so fascinated Betty Drabik that she purchased a 1908 Tuscarawas County atlas. The book contained photos of prominent businessmen and their homes, as well as information about their personal histories. We flipped through it in the most private of the restaurant’s three dining rooms. Lace curtains and valences softened the windows. Original wainscoting lined the wall, and a built-in cupboard still stood in the corner. The wooden mantelpiece piqued our curiosity because it’s said to have a secret compartment. Karen looked for that compartment, convinced of its location by a directional clue incorporated in the surrounding tile. The other dining rooms were equally attractive. The front one was graced with a beautiful black marble fireplace.
We were treated to several delicious items and can’t wait to go back for more. We started with slices of Italian Sausage Braid and Roasted Vegetable Bread. Both were absolutely fabulous. We brought half of each home to our most appreciative families. We also sampled a delicious Chicken Breast marinated in the unique House Dressing. It, too, was yummy. Wonderfully gracious about our sampling, Betty sent along pieces of the tasty homemade pies being served that day—Caramel Apple and Strawberry Rhubarb. Enjoying them later in the day allowed us to experience Dante’s that much longer.
BRUSCHETTA
24 slices Ciabatta or Italian bread
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cups diced Roma tomatoes
¼ cup finely chopped onion
1 cup chopped parsley
1 tablespoon minced garlic
¼ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons Italian seasoning
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
½ cup shredded Romano cheese
20 to 24 slices provolone cheese
Brush bread lightly with olive oil. Toast bread. In a large bowl, combine all remaining ingredients except cheeses. Spoon onto toasted bread. Sprinkle with Romano. Top with provolone and broil just until cheese melts. Yields 2 dozen Bruschetta slices.
ITALIAN VEGETABLE SOUP
1 pound Italian sausage
2 cups chopped onion
3 cloves finely chopped garlic
6 cups beef consommé
6 cups water
1½ cups chopped Roma tomatoes
1 cup prepared spaghetti sauce
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
4 carrots, pared, sliced, and steamed
1½ cups chopped zucchini
15-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained
8 ounces rotini pasta, cooked and drained
In a large pot, brown sausage, onions, and garlic. Drain fat. Add consommé, water, tomatoes, sauce, pepper, and Italian seasoning. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and add carrots, zucchini, beans, and pasta. Heat through. Serves 10 to 12.
204 SOUTH MAIN STREET
MONROE, OH 45050
513-779-4747
The Brandywine Inn was once reputed to be the tallest building for miles around. Today, its white-painted brick exterior and stacked-stone retaining walls invite visitors to step back in time to stagecoach days. Built in 1850 by David Boggs, it was originally a stop on the Great Miami Turnpike, which ran between Cincinnati and Dayton. The ground floor was constructed into a steep hillside, forming a large, cavelike room at one end. Local legend has it that this hidden room was used to harbor slaves escaping from the South. The Red Onion Tavern was also housed on this floor. An enormous picture of an onion was displayed outside to announce the tavern’s location to its many patrons—and to slaves who could not read the written signs. There was no access to the inn from the tavern. Overnight guests had to climb the stone stairway at the rear of the building to enter the main doors. This floor housed the dining rooms and kitchen. Guest rooms were on the third floor. On the top floor, a large hall accommodated visiting lecturers and traveling road shows. Alas, that room no longer exists. In the early 1900s, there was a fire on the top floor. The owner took the opportunity to remove the walls and reroof the building, since it was slowly sinking into the ground, thanks to its heavy, twelve-inch-thick walls.
Today, there are three dining rooms on the second floor. Debbie was unable to accompany me the day I visited. I sat in the farthest original room, which has exposed brick and rough-paneled walls. The doorways are framed with planks of wood from the original floor, complete with square-headed nails. The flickering lamps reflect off the highly polished surfaces, giving a cozy, intimate feel to the room.
The current owners, George and Doris Bernas, wanted to create a haven for fine dining and to make the evening meal the highlight of their guests’ day. To that end, the inn serves a prix fixe dinner. The chef changes the menu every week, and the inn boasts that he has not repeated a menu in more than twenty years!
The meal began with a Phyllo Triangle stuffed with wild mushrooms, olives, and goat cheese. It was a tangy and flavorful start to an entirely delicious meal. My waiter, Anthony, was professional and swift, describing each course as it arrived. A tart Cranberry Ice followed, then an entrée of Roasted Pork Loin with Hazelnut Sausage Stuffing. The serving size was restrained, allowing me to finish each course with an expectation of being able to indulge in dessert. Chef George had concocted sweet pastry topped with baked apples, walnuts, and dried cherries and served with homemade Vanilla Ice Cream. I chatted with the charming couple at the next table, who had been eating at the inn once a week for the past eighteen years. Everyone agreed that George and Doris have created a haven of which to be proud.
MAKE-AHEAD
TURKEY BREAST
8 cups turkey stock
6-pound whole turkey breast, skinned
1 teaspoon olive oil
½ teaspoon dried thyme
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon pepper
Herb Stuffing (see next column)
In a large stockpot, bring stock to a boil and add turkey breast. Return to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 1½ hours until turkey reaches 170 degrees. Remove turkey from stock, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Rub surface of turkey with oil, then sprinkle with seasonings. Wrap turkey tightly in foil and bake for about 2 hours until thoroughly heated. To serve, remove turkey breast from bone and slice. Serve with Herb Stuffing. Serves 6.
HERB STUFFING
1 stick butter
1 cup diced onion
1 cup diced celery
16 cups stale bread cubes
2 teaspoons poultry seasoning
1 teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon dried tarragon
½ teaspoon dried rubbed sage
¼ teaspoon pepper
2½ cups turkey stock
Preheat oven to 250 degrees. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onions and celery and sauté for 3 minutes. Stir in bread cubes and seasonings. Add stock and bake for 1 hour and 55 minutes. This can be baked at same time as Turkey Breast. Serves 6 generously.
SPIRITS BISTRO AT SNOW HILL
11093 STATE ROUTE 73
NEW VIENNA, OH 45159
937-987-2491
If you enjoy a good ghost story, then plan to visit Snow Hill during the fall as the staff hosts its “Dinner and a Ghost” events. Another opportunity to experience the phenomenon is via the Haunted Midnight Lantern Ghost Tours. During the lantern tours, participants are actually included in on-site research conducted by Ghost Investigations of Ohio. Shelly Suitor, one of the principal investigators, states that there is no anecdotal information indicating any unusual tragedy, illness, or death that would explain the significant paranormal activities that have been reported. Yet patrons and employees have story after story of unusual occurrences, while photos and film footage taken on site have captured additional activity.
The history of the structure dates back to the 1820s, when Catherine and William Harris came west from Snow Hill, Maryland. Over the course of five years, the couple built Snow Hill as a travel lodge designed to accommodate travelers whose sights were set on locations even farther west than Ohio. The inn was immediately successful and quickly became Clinton County’s social hub. Local lore also indicates that the inn became a stop on the Underground Railroad, a possibility reinforced by a tunnel running at one time from Snow Hill’s basement to another home located almost a mile away.
Snow Hill continued its service as a popular gathering spot. Catering to golf enthusiasts and the area’s elite, a country club was established in 1924. It was used as a private club into the 1980s, when the recession and the draw of exclusive clubs caused a decline in membership. In order to save the business, the golf course was opened to the general public and the dining facility focused on special events.
Ownership changes have inevitably occurred since then, bringing with them significant alterations. The year 2005 saw the opening of Spirits Bistro, a full-service restaurant serving lunch and dinner in the old Harris home, whose brick is now painted a crisp white. Just inside the door is the first of the dining rooms, clad in traditional navy and hunter green, with windows festooned in Federal-style valences. An antique chest of drawers, antique mirrors, two fireplaces, and framed prints of George Washington add to the historic feel. The second dining room is bedecked in raspberry wallpaper and contains both an original fireplace and the original staircase to the second floor. Doors with wrought-iron hardware add to the historic ambiance.
The lunch menu offers a variety of salads and a lengthy list of sandwiches, including a Baked Italian Sub, a French Dip, and my perennial favorite, Pulled Pork Barbecue. The Rum-Fired Shrimp with Southwestern Dressing caught the eye of my daughter, Dori. She was my traveling companion for this visit, since Karen had other commitments back in Pittsburgh. The dinner menu has traditional appeal, offering selections such as Cranberry Barbecue Chicken, Shrimp and Scallop Linguine, Honey Pecan Chicken, and Beef Tips Hunter.
Today, guests at Snow Hill Country Club can enjoy not only a round of golf but also a tasty meal at Spirits Bistro—or a good ghost story. Several guest rooms have been added on the second floor, making Snow Hill a getaway destination.
KEY LIME PIE
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
¼ cup sugar
1 stick butter, melted
4 14-ounce cans sweetened condensed milk
12 egg yolks
1 cup Key lime juice
zest and juice of 2 limes
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Combine graham cracker crumbs, sugar, and butter. Press into the bottom of a lightly greased 10-inch cake pan. In a large bowl, combine remaining ingredients with a hand mixer until smooth. Pour over crust. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until center is set. Cool thoroughly before serving. Serves 6 to 8.
BOURBON-GLAZED TUNA
¾ cup bourbon
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup water
2 cups granulated sugar
4 8-ounce tuna steaks
¼ cup vegetable oil
Combine bourbon, soy sauce, water, and sugar. Simmer over medium-low heat until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon or until a candy thermometer reads 220 degrees. Cool and reserve. To prepare tuna, brush steaks with vegetable oil. Grill to desired doneness. Brush steaks with glaze 2 minutes before removing from grill. Serves 4.
