When the National Road opened the way west, a good team of oxen could make only ten to twelve miles per day before having to stop and rest. No doubt, the human passengers were equally weary. Horses could do slightly better, but the need for frequent lodging along the major thoroughfares was great. Highlighted in this chapter are inns and hotels whose registers over the years have read like a veritable who’s who, from drovers and past presidents to modern-day guests. Some still provide overnight accommodations, and all serve meals to sate even the hungriest of travelers.
649 HIGH STREET
WORTHINGTON, OH 43085
614-885-2600
In 1816, a Connecticut gentleman by the name of R. W. Cowles came to this part of Ohio to earn his fortune. Two years later, he married Laura Kilbourne, and together they had nine children. For the mere sum of $250, he purchased three lots in Worthington’s downtown area. In 1835, he built an impressive residence on the land. Unfortunately, Cowles enjoyed it for only seven years before passing away. During his tenure as a Worthington resident, he was a prominent businessman, a county commissioner, a justice of the peace, and postmaster.
Ten years after Cowles’s death, Theodore Fuller purchased and enlarged the home. Two years later, the structure was again sold, this time to William Bishop. Under Bishop’s ownership, the residence operated as an inn known as The Bishop House. For just a dime, guests were served a meal of beef stew or potato soup, along with biscuits or cornbread. For an additional twenty-five cents, they could spend the night. When the property was purchased by Nicholas Van Loon, the name was changed to the Central Hotel. After just three years, the hotel passed into the hands of Robert Lewis. It became known as the Union Hotel and later as the Hotel Stand.
In 1889, the building returned to the Van Loon family when it was purchased by Nicholas’s son, George, who brought back the name his father had used for the inn. It was during his time at the helm that the third story and the mansard roof were added. A fire had damaged part of the original roof, and George Van Loon thought it was a good opportunity to add a third-floor ballroom. William Van Loon, a member of the third generation of the family, took over from his father in 1926. The family retained ownership until 1936. As with many such structures, changes in ownership happened more frequently than needed maintenance. By 1983, time had taken its toll. But the inherent beauty of the building was evident when the process of restoration began.
We came in out of the snow through the side entrance and up a marble staircase that brought us into a casual eating area. The backbar took up one wall, and another wall was highlighted by a lovely stained-glass picture of the inn. Each of the dining rooms has its own unique décor, in keeping with the history of the structure. The room where we were seated looked out over the wide front porch, marked by a colonnade and a spindled balustrade.
Both the lunch and dinner menus are short but extremely interesting. Karen would choose the Chilled Cucumber Soup—served with smoked salmon, dill, and chives—every time, as it is one of her favorite flavor combinations. Debbie had difficulty choosing between the crunchy Red Oak Salad, sprinkled with candied pecans, goat cheese, and apples, and the Thai Beef Salad, accompanied by soba noodles, marinated shiitake mushrooms, spinach, and pine nuts. The Halibut, coated in an almond and coriander crust, is a favorite choice for dinner guests, as is the Beef Worthington in Cabernet and Oyster Mushroom Sauce. Remember to save room for a delicious Coconut Cream and Green Tea Parfait or a selection of wonderful house-made sorbets. For any meal, the Worthington Inn is worth every bite!
MUSSELS IN
CHARDONNAY BROTH
1 teaspoon minced garlic
½ cup diced mushrooms
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
¼ cup chopped scallions
½ cup diced yellow onion
12 mussels, cleaned
3 tablespoons white wine
1½ teaspoons lime juice
1 teaspoon ground saffron
salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon butter
chopped parsley for garnish
Sauté garlic and mushrooms in olive oil until light brown. Add next 3 ingredients and heat until onions are translucent. Remove from heat and reserve mushrooms and onions, leaving liquids in pan. Add mussels and steam until they start to open. Add 2 generous tablespoons mushroom mixture, wine, lime juice, saffron, and salt and pepper. Toss lightly to coat. Whisk in butter to smooth out sauce. Sprinkle with parsley and serve. Serves 4 as an appetizer.
DIVER SCALLOPS
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
24 large scallops
salt and pepper to taste
2 shots Absolut vodka
32-ounce bottle Bloody Mary mix
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon cornstarch
8 tablespoons crème fraîche for garnish
24 Parmesan chips
1 sprig rosemary
Heat olive oil in a medium sauté pan. Season both sides of scallops with salt and pepper. Sear on both sides about 3 to 5 minutes to cook through. Pour Absolut into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Add Bloody Mary mix and reduce by a third. Combine water and cornstarch in a small bowl. Whisk into Bloody Mary mixture to thicken. Season with salt and pepper. Pour ¼ cup sauce onto each of 8 plates. Drizzle plates with crème fraîche. Alternate scallops and Parmesan chips on center of plates and top with fresh rosemary. Serves 8.
313 EAST BROADWAY
GRANVILLE, OH 43023
740-587-0001
Henry Ford’s name appears on the 1938 guest register. Fifty years later, the inn was featured on the back of boxes of Uncle Ben’s Rice. The origins of this noteworthy inn extend back to 1801, when a small band of men left Granville, Massachusetts, for the more fertile land of central Ohio. One of the first settlers was Samuel Thrall, who claimed the land on which The Buxton Inn now stands. Eleven years later, the land passed to Orrin Granger, who built an inn for stagecoach travelers. Following Mr. Granger’s death in 1815, the inn had a succession of owners until 1861, when James Dilley bought the building. During that time, the inn housed young women who were students at Granville Female Academy across the street. Subsequent to Mr. Dilley’s tenure, Major Buxton operated the hostelry, giving it its current name. The major is one of the ghosts said to be seen around the inn. When current owners Audrey and Orville Orr first bought the inn, the staff still set a place at the dinner table for the major. He’s also been seen sitting in a rocking chair by the fireplace.
Fred Sweet, son of one of the twentieth-century innkeepers, first wrote about the apparitions in a 1932 alumni bulletin from nearby Denison University. He described the ghost of Orrin Granger, encountered one night in the pantry during Sweet’s quest for a piece of apple pie. Many other ghostly experiences involve “the Lady in Blue,” Ethel Bounell, who moved from New York City to the inn in 1934. Her spirit was seen walking across the balcony during the Orrs’ restoration of the property. A medium from Cincinnati also described a friendly presence dressed in elegant blue that accompanied her from room to room during her visit.
Guests flock to Rooms 7, 8, and 9 in an attempt to experience these prior innkeepers. Quite by chance, we were assigned to Room 9 for the night. We anxiously anticipated what might occur. After checking in, we went downstairs for dinner, starting with the delicious Curried Chicken Soup with toasted almonds and grapes. That was followed by Karen’s dinner of Wild Mushroom Stroganoff, filled with five or six different varieties of mushrooms. Debbie went traditional, dining on Ham, Green Beans, and a Baked Sweet Potato. For dessert, we shared a piece of Gingerbread topped with Lemon Sauce, very different from the English variety Karen grew up with, but equally delicious.
Before heading upstairs to settle in for the evening, we looked through the other dining rooms. The largest one, located just off the lobby, is decorated in red and has red plaid draperies hanging at the windows. Down the hall is a more casual room that has oil paintings on the wall and an interesting bar at one end. Downstairs is the tavern, festively decorated with bright quilts on the tables. This is where coach drivers once cooked their own meals at the great open fireplace and slept on beds of straw. We were fortunate to have more comfortable accommodations. As has been the case to date, we slept soundly and well, meeting none of the expected ghostly personalities.
GARLIC VICHYSSOISE
2 to 3 whole heads garlic
4 cups chicken stock
4 potatoes, peeled and quartered
¾ cup chopped celery
1 carrot, chopped
1 cup chopped onions
1 cup half-and-half
1 cup or more heavy cream
chopped garlic chives for garnish
Put garlic and stock into a 2-quart pot and bring to a simmer. Remove garlic when soft, after about 15 minutes. Add vegetables and cook for 10 minutes over medium heat until tender. Allow to cool, then purée in a blender. Taste for garlic flavor. If it’s not strong enough, blend in peeled cloves of cooked garlic to taste. Add half-and-half and heavy cream and blend well. Chill. Serve in chilled bowls. Garnish with garlic chives. Serves 8.
PEACH MELBA
12 scoops vanilla ice cream
6 scoops raspberry sherbet
24 fresh peach slices
1½ cups Melba Sauce (see below)
6 generous dabs sweetened whipped cream
almond slivers
6 maraschino cherries
In order, place 2 scoops ice cream, 1 scoop sherbet, 4 peach slices, ¼ cup Melba Sauce, a dab of whipped cream, almond slivers, and a cherry in each of 6 stemmed goblets. Serves 6.
MELBA SAUCE
½ cup currant jelly
1 cup raspberries, sieved, or ½ cup red raspberry jelly
1 teaspoon cornstarch
teaspoon salt
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon brandy
Bring currant jelly and raspberry juice or jelly to a boil in a 3-cup saucepan. Separately mix cornstarch, salt, sugar, and brandy. Add to jelly mixture. Cook, whisking well, until mixture is clear and thick. Remove from heat, then chill well. Yields 1½ cups.
THE GOLDEN LAMB
27 SOUTH BROADWAY
LEBANON, OH 45036
513-932-5065
When we started the research for this book, the one place everyone mentioned was The Golden Lamb. The history of what is claimed to be Ohio’s oldest inn began December 23, 1803, when Jonas Seaman appeared in Warren County Court to request a tavern license for the building where he resided. Seaman’s two-story log home was at the very center of the new village named Lebanon, situated at the crossroads of the main north-south and east-west trails. His father had been a tavern keeper in New Jersey, so the nuances of the business were familiar to Jonas. His wife, Martha, was industrious, thrifty, and a good cook. Soon, the tavern gained a reputation as a fine place to stop.
In 1815, a Federal-style two-story brick building replaced the original log cabin, although one of the main-floor dining rooms of today is situated where the log tavern once stood. Additions were made as the inn’s popularity grew during the era of coach travel. Since many drivers and other travelers were unable to read, they were simply instructed to go to “the sign of the Golden Lamb.”
Since its beginning, the inn has been host to many famous and influential people. Presidents Garfield and McKinley, William Henry Harrison, Benjamin Harrison, Van Buren, John Quincy Adams, Hayes, Grant, Taft, and Harding all stayed here. Mark Twain’s slow drawl could be heard as he rehearsed for his performance at the Lebanon Opera House. Had you visited in 1842, you may have been as surprised as innkeeper Calvin Bradley to find that the small, rather disagreeable man sharing his negative opinions about the United States was none other than Charles Dickens. Many of these notables have bedrooms named after them, as do others such as Harriet Beecher Stowe and De Witt Clinton. Each of the eighteen uniquely furnished overnight rooms is open for viewing, provided no guest has checked in.
We enjoyed a quiet lunch in the Dickens Dining Room. Because of the inn’s reputation for traditional American fare, Debbie chose the Smothered Steak with Mashed Potatoes. It was filling and good. Karen opted for a more modern choice, the Fresh Fruit Plate. Watermelon, pineapple, strawberries, and oranges were served in a beautifully arranged portion. The Red Raspberry Sorbet that accompanied the fruit was delicious, and the Raisin Nut Bread gave the meal the perfect touch.
We finished with a piece of Sister Lizzie’s Shaker Sugar Pie, although we were tempted by the Weary Willie Cobbler because of its story. Weary Willie was a name given to Union soldiers during the Civil War. Legend has it that a tired soldier once stopped at a farmhouse asking for a meal. Food was scarce, and the mistress had little even for her family. All she had managed to scrape together for them to eat that day was a cobbler of cherries and gooseberries. True? That’s for you to decide.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH
3 cups diced butternut squash
1 stick butter, divided
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon brown sugar, divided
¼ teaspoon salt
dash of white pepper
1 unpared Jonathan apple, cored and sliced
½ cup cider or apple juice
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 cup crushed cornflakes
¼ cup chopped pecans
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Boil squash for 10 minutes. Drain. Add ½ stick butter, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, salt, and white pepper. Heat 1½ tablespoons butter in skillet. Add apples and cider. Sprinkle with granulated sugar. Cover and simmer over low heat about 5 minutes until barely tender. Spread squash and apples in a 3-quart casserole. Mix cornflake crumbs with pecans. Melt remaining butter, combine with remaining brown sugar, and stir into cornflake mixture. Sprinkle over squash. Bake for 30 minutes. Serves 8.
CELERY SEED DRESSING
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon celery seed
¼ teaspoon grated onion
1 cup salad oil
cup vinegar
Mix together dry ingredients. Add onions. Add a small amount of the oil and mix well. Add vinegar and oil alternately, ending with oil. Yields approximately 2 cups.
SISTER LIZZIE’S SHAKER
SUGAR PIE
cup flour
1 cup brown sugar
9-inch unbaked pie shell
2 cups light cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons butter
nutmeg
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Thoroughly mix flour and brown sugar. Spread evenly in bottom of pie shell. Add cream and vanilla. Slice butter into pieces and distribute evenly over top of pie. Sprinkle with nutmeg. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes until firm. Serves 6 to 8.
101 FRONT STREET
MARIETTA, OH 45750
740-373-5522
The S. D. H. House Salad was a creation of S. Durward Hoag, whose family owned and operated this hotel from 1918 through 1974. Marietta’s version of Cobb salad, it is served with warm Russian Black Bread and the house dressing, Creamy Raspberry Dijon. It was one of the items we decided to share. The other was the Chicken Salad Melt, topped with tomato slices and cheddar cheese, all baked in tender, flaky puff pastry. Both were delicious, as was the side of Potato Salad served with them.
The dining room at The Lafayette Hotel is known as the Gun Room Restaurant because of the private collection of flintlock long rifles that hangs on the walls. These handcrafted relics date from 1795 to 1880. Among the collection is a percussion rifle made by J. J. Henry and his sons, who accompanied Benedict Arnold in 1775.
Other memorabilia pays homage to the influence of riverboats on this establishment. As a matter of fact, the entire dining room looks like a replica of a steamboat. A captain’s bell hangs by the entrance, gingerbread trim encircles the room, and black columns fashioned after steamboat smokestacks stand in the archway between the two dining areas. Even the carpet carries the motif, with paddle-wheelers and the Lafayette L forming a repeating design.
The Lafayette Hotel, named for the 1825 visit of the Marquis de Lafayette, actually began as the Bellevue Hotel, constructed in 1892. Unfortunately, the Bellevue burned to the ground on April 26, 1916. Two years later, Marietta businessmen rebuilt the hotel, changed its name, and hired Reno G. Hoag as manager at a salary of $150 per month, plus board for his family. It was during his tenure that one of the most interesting stories about the hotel evolved. Residents were suspicious about how a young bellhop working at the hotel could afford shiny new cars. The answer floated up the lobby steps during a flood, as several pint bottles of moonshine bobbed atop the rising water. It seems the enterprising bellhop had been acquiring and storing liquor under the stairs, then selling it to guests at quite a profit! Although Mr. Hoag fired the bellhop, the marketing skills the young man had acquired selling booze came in handy. He went on to employment with Montgomery Ward and worked his way from assistant clerk to executive vice president in just two years!
Tourism is thriving in Marietta, thanks to the town’s eleven museums and its strong ties to the Underground Railroad. In fact, some claim that the Underground Railroad began here. Marietta is an official stop for the Delta Queen Steamboat Company. Several times a year, the Mississippi Queen, the Delta Queen, and the American Queen dock at the Ohio River levee beside The Lafayette Hotel. When the Delta Queen comes to town, it’s particularly special, because it’s the only time and place where one Historic Hotel of America visits another!
CREAMY BAKED
CAULIFLOWER WITH
FETA CHEESE
1 head cauliflower
4 cups heavy cream
1 cup crumbled fresh feta cheese
1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Clean cauliflower, cut or break it into large pieces, and place in a small casserole dish. Pour cream over cauliflower. Sprinkle feta evenly over top. Season with nutmeg and salt and pepper. Bake covered for 25 minutes. Uncover, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and bake uncovered for 8 to 10 minutes more. Serves 8.
ALASKAN
SOCKEYE SALMON STRUDEL
2 sticks butter, melted
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
2 pounds sockeye salmon
16 ounces sour cream
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
salt and pepper to taste
1 package phyllo dough
1 cup pesto
In a small bowl, combine butter, parsley, thyme, and basil. Set aside. Cut salmon into thin strips. In a food processor, combine sour cream, garlic, tomatoes, and oregano. Season with salt and pepper and continue processing until smooth. Lay out 1 sheet phyllo dough on parchment paper. Brush with butter mixture. Place another layer of phyllo on top and brush with butter mixture. Continue until you have 7 layers. Spread evenly with sour cream mixture, leaving 1 inch on each side. Arrange salmon strips evenly over top and brush generously with pesto. Roll up dough and brush with butter mixture. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown. Slice and serve immediately. Serves 8. Note: The chef suggests serving Alaskan Sockeye Salmon Strudel with Lobster Cream Sauce.
123 NORTH BROAD STREET
LANCASTER, OH 43130
800-654-2477
Located in a National Register Historic District, Shaw’s Restaurant & Inn practically rubs shoulders with history itself. Just down the road, visitors can find the Sherman House, birthplace of Civil War general William Tecumseh Sherman and his younger brother, United States senator John Sherman, the author of the Sherman Antitrust Act. No less popular with tourists is the Georgian Museum, located in the opposite direction. It’s a strikingly beautiful restored 1832 mansion complete with furnishings from the period. It would be hard to find a finer collection of nineteenth-century mansions and homes in the Midwest. At the end of a long day of sightseeing, Shaw’s is the perfect place to go to be sure of a warm welcome and a delicious meal.
Shaw’s was erected at the location of the Pitcher Inn, a popular tavern of the very early 1800s. Rumor has it that the original owner, Rudolph Pitcher, lost the tavern in a poker game in 1806. Hungry travelers in need of a good meal have long made their way here. Indeed, Henry Clay and Daniel Webster could often be found dining on the premises. Current owners Nancy and Bruce Cork have been serving fine food and wine here for long enough to win not only local acclaim but also major accolades including a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.
The menu is short and changes every day, but it always includes a selection of meats, fresh fish, poultry, and pasta. Although we were there for lunch, we checked out the dinner menu and were delighted with the selection. From Ginger-Lime Baked Salmon to Char-Grilled Marinated Elk Chop with Poached Stuffed Pear, it all sounded delicious. We sat in the lower dining room among the local businessmen and the bridge club set. The richly paneled walls with hunt-style sconces and the double valances with pull-back draperies at each of the large windows gave an opulent air to the room. Karen had no difficulty in choosing the Stir-Fried Coconut Curry Chicken with Bok Choy, an extremely creative favorite that came highly recommended. Debbie was intrigued by the Macadamia Nut-Crusted Baked Scrod with Papaya-Basil Sauce.
The inn, one of four hundred North American locations that make up the Select Registry, boasts twenty-two individually decorated suites and guest rooms, many with enormous whirlpools and thematic decorations. Shaw’s Restaurant & Inn is definitely making history here in Lancaster, Ohio.
BUTTERMILK-ROASTED
LEG OF LAMB
6-pound leg of lamb
3 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon soy sauce
¼ teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup buttermilk
½ cup dry white wine
1½ cups beef broth, divided
2 sprigs rosemary
1 tablespoon butter
salt and pepper to taste
Using a knife, pierce holes in top of lamb. Cut 1 clove of garlic into slivers. Insert a sliver of garlic in each hole. Chop remaining 2 cloves of garlic. In a small bowl, mix together garlic, mustard, soy sauce, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Slowly beat in oil. Slowly add buttermilk. Pour mixture over lamb. Let stand in refrigerator for at least 6 hours, basting often. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place lamb on a rack in a roasting pan, reserving buttermilk mixture. Roast lamb for 15 minutes. Combine buttermilk mixture, wine, and ½ cup of the beef broth. Pour around lamb. Add rosemary. Reduce temperature to 300 degrees and continue roasting 15 minutes per pound for medium-rare. Add remaining broth as juices dry up. Remove lamb from pan and set aside. Remove excess fat from sauce. Add butter to finish. Season with salt and pepper. Serve sauce with lamb. Serves 12.
FRENCH BREAD PUDDING
5 eggs
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 cup sugar
dash of cinnamon
1 tablespoon vanilla
¼ cup raisins
12 1-inch slices French bread
½ stick butter, cubed
Whiskey Sauce (see below)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, combine eggs, cream, sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and raisins. Mix well. Grease bottom of a 9-by-12-inch pan. Pour mixture into pan. Lay slices of bread in mixture and let stand for 5 minutes. Turn bread over and let stand another 10 minutes. Dot with butter. Put pan into a larger pan filled halfway with water. Cover with foil and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, uncovering for the last 10 minutes so top lightly browns. Serve with Whiskey Sauce. Serves 12.
WHISKEY SAUCE
1½ cups sugar
½ cup bourbon
1½ sticks butter
cup water
1 teaspoon cornstarch
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Simmer, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens. Serve warm over French Bread Pudding. Yields 1½ cups.
35 WEST JACKSON STREET
MILLERSBURG, OH 44654
330-674-1457
We arrived at Hotel Millersburg ahead of the normal lunch crowd and took advantage of being the only guests by looking around. The pictures hung on the peach-papered walls depicted scenes from around town. Among those displayed were a picture of the stately courthouse from 1884, one of workmen and horse-drawn wagons, and one from the mid-1920s showing a prosperous downtown. Other photos showed the homes of prominent citizens, including the William T. Hull residence. According to the placard beneath the photo, William McKinley was an overnight guest there in 1895 before making a campaign speech on the courthouse steps the following morning.
Hotel Millersburg was built in 1847. By 1864, the inn was expanded. It soon became the hub of social activity in the town. Over the years, the strain of maintenance began to tell, and the hotel fell into disrepair and ultimately closed. In 1980, Millersburg businessman R. Gene Smith began the slow, tedious process of renovation. Ten years later, local natives Thomas and Cheryl Bird purchased and reopened the hotel, with its handmade bricks and its woodwork painted sage green, burgundy, and gold-toned cream. Other buildings in this section of downtown are also quite interesting. The structure to the left, now a law office, has attractive purple stained-glass transoms. Maxwell’s, the building to the right, has lettering on the second-story windows stating, “Trunks and Bags Since 1866.” Just down the street is a well-kept emporium.
In the lobby area of the hotel, the owners have maintained the original tin ceiling and oak trim, in keeping with the National Register of Historic Places designation. The formal dining room is available by reservation for up to fifty people. We lunched in the hotel’s tavern, a casual room with booths and butcher-block tables. Shortly after we seated ourselves, the restaurant began to fill with business people and local residents. Debbie chose the special of the day, the Open-Faced Roast Beef Sandwich, served with Mashed Potatoes and Applesauce. Karen opted for the Maurice Salad, which contained mixed greens and diced chicken and was served over toasted Sourdough Bread. The tavern offers traditional fare for lunch. Among the nine appetizer choices are Beer-Battered Mushrooms and Potato Skins. There are twelve sandwich options, three of which are highly regarded burger selections. For dinner, five different cuts of beef are advertised. We thought the Pork Tenderloin Medallions with Apricot Sauce sounded like something one of us might choose.
Holmes County, Ohio, is touted as having the largest Amish settlement in the world. If you’re in the area for a bit of sightseeing, Hotel Millersburg will fill you up and allow you to save your pocketbook for some of the crafts that can be found along the country roads.
PORK MEDALLIONS WITH
MUSHROOM CAPS
12-ounce pork tenderloin
cup flour
salt and pepper to taste
3 tablespoons butter
2 cups mushroom caps
¼ cup burgundy wine
¼ cup demi-glace
Slice tenderloin into 6 2-ounce medallions. Mix together flour and salt and pepper in a flat container. Roll medallions in seasoned flour. Melt butter over medium heat in a large sauté pan. Place coated medallions in pan. Brown slightly on both sides. Reduce heat to low. Continue cooking until medallions are almost done, turning once. Drain butter. Add mushroom caps. Deglaze pan with burgundy. Add demi-glace. Reduce liquid by half. Plate medallions and top with mushrooms. Drizzle burgundy reduction over top. Serves 2.
CHICKEN IN MUSHROOM
CREAM SAUCE
½ cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon herb of your choice
4 8-ounce chicken breasts
¼ cup clarified butter
½ cup cream sherry
4 ounces mushrooms, sliced
1 green pepper, julienned
2 cups heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a shallow dish, mix together flour and seasonings. Pound chicken breasts to ½-inch thickness and dredge in seasoned flour. Heat butter in a large, heavy skillet. Brown breasts on 1 side, turn, then place in oven for 15 minutes to finish cooking. Remove skillet from oven and set chicken aside. Drain butter and deglaze pan with sherry. Add mushrooms and peppers and cook about 3 minutes until tender. Add cream, bring to a boil, and reduce sauce to desired thickness. Replace chicken in skillet and warm through. Serves 4.
27 BROADWAY STREET
TOLEDO, OH 43602
419-241-1253
During the War of 1812, Major William Oliver served as a scout. He was stationed at Fort Meigs in nearby Perrysburg, under the command of William Henry Harrison. After the war, he and his Cincinnati partners bought as much land as possible in the Port Lawrence area. Although Oliver built Toledo’s first warehouse, he was not immediately successful in his business speculations. He suffered many financial setbacks as he lobbied to have the Lucas County seat moved from Maumee to Toledo.
By 1853, his business ventures had finally succeeded to the point that he commissioned a palace-like hotel to be situated on the highest point of his landholdings. The hotel was to have the finest modern conveniences, including gas lights, running water, and a central courtyard. The courtyard was planned to maximize air circulation and natural sunlight for the 171 rooms.
Eventually, because of its location, the hotel was sold for industrial purposes and gutted. Riddle Lighting occupied the building from 1919 to 1947, followed by Toledo Wheel and Rim until 1967. Successful Sales next used the structure for display and storage of its novelty items.
Today, what remains of the former luxury hotel are its brick exterior, two ornamental marble mantels, wallpaper, and the black walnut and white ash floor in the lobby. The spacious upstairs dining room of Maumee Bay Brewing Co. occupies what was once the hotel’s ballroom. It provides views of the Maumee River and area landmarks. Behind a glass enclosure, the fermenting tanks give diners a glimpse of the brewing process.
I sat in a comfortable booth and enjoyed the simplicity of the dining room’s atmosphere. The house brews have been given names that evoke the area. The Buckeye Beer is the lightest on tap. The brewery also creates Glass City Pale Ale and Fallen Timbers Red Ale, among others. I made my dinner choice accordingly, choosing from the list of appetizers the Wings glazed in a dark stout. The serving size was ample enough that I needed to make no other selection. However, the Polynesian Salmon, the Almond-Crusted Pork Medallions, and the Steak and Mushroom Pie were all options that I’ll consider on another visit. The desserts were equally appealing, among them Boston Cream Pie, Chocolate Truffle Tart, and Mud Hen Pie, named for the city’s minor-league baseball team. It contains Coffee Ice Cream with toffee pieces in a Mint Cookie Crust, all drizzled with Chocolate Sauce and Caramel Sauce. I’ll have to try it on my next visit, because it contains an interesting combination of flavors but more calories than I could in good conscience expend on that particular day. Perhaps Karen will be free to come with me next time to share the delicious burden.
STEAMED MUSSELS
2 pounds mussels, rinsed
½ cup coconut milk
2 tablespoons finely diced red pepper
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Place all ingredients in a medium sauté pan. Cover and let steam for 5 minutes. Divide equally between 2 large soup bowls. Serves 2.
ALMOND-CRUSTED PORK
MEDALLIONS
16-ounce pork loin
3 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons dark oyster sauce
¼ cup crushed almonds
Slice pork loin into eight 2-ounce medallions. Heat oil in a large sauté pan. Place medallions in oil and brown on both sides for approximately 4 minutes. When cooked to desired doneness, divide equally between 2 plates. Drizzle with oyster sauce, then sprinkle with almonds. Serves 2.
CHEDDAR BEER SOUP
¼ cup oil
¼ cup diced carrots
¼ cup diced celery
¼ cup diced onion
¾ cup beer
8 cups milk
½ teaspoon thyme
½ teaspoon white pepper
½ tablespoon granulated garlic
½ tablespoon salt
1 small bay leaf
1¼ pounds cheddar cheese, shredded
½ pound provolone cheese, cubed
¼ pound American cheese, shredded
Heat oil in a large pan and sauté carrots, celery, and onions. Whisk in beer, milk, spices, and cheeses. Continue whisking until cheeses melt and mixture is creamy. Serves 10 to 12.
81 WEST MAIN STREET
WILMINGTON, OH 45177
937-383-4141
As in many such communities across the United States during the 1920s, prominent citizens of Wilmington, Ohio, led by Matthew Rombach Denver, had a dream of building a first-class hotel. The town’s position between Columbus and Cincinnati seemed ideal for such a venture. During its heyday, the structure contained not only guest rooms and an elegant dining room but also a barbershop, a soda fountain, and a tavern. Not surprisingly, it quickly became a center of business and social life for the community of Wilmington.
Built in 1928, the hotel was named for General James William Denver, considered one of Wilmington’s most adventurous citizens. He was a hero of both the Mexican War and the Civil War, a governor of the “Bleeding” Kansas Territory, and a United States legislator serving both California and Colorado. He was also the man for whom Denver, Colorado, was named.
Today, the exterior—with its dark brick, stucco, and cross timbers and its large crest over the entry—provides downtown Wilmington with a decidedly European flair. That feel continues in the small lobby with its simple desk, dark wood, terra-cotta tile floor, and elaborate wall sconces.
To the left of the lobby is the tavern area, its simple bar decorated with memorabilia related to firefighting. Simple burgundy curtains hung at the Gothic-inspired windows as we considered our lunchtime choices. The special of the day was Lasagna, Green Beans, and Garlic Bread, an option that was quite popular with the other guests. We chose another comfort food option—the Cheesy Broccoli Soup, accompanied by the Bacon and Grilled Cheese Sandwich. Both were quite tasty and made a satisfying midday meal.
Dinner and Sunday brunch are served in the more formal dining room, located to the right of the lobby. There, floral carpeting and crisp white linen tablecloths provide a pleasant backdrop for the dining experience. The brunch menu includes traditional fare like Buttermilk Pancakes and Eggs Benedict alongside items with a Western influence, such as Breakfast Burritos, the Fiesta Scramble, and a Denver Breakfast Bake. Entrées such as Grilled Chicken Salad, Turkey Croissants, and Tomato Herb Penne provide alternatives for those wanting something other than breakfast fare.
For dinner, guests can begin with a traditional Shrimp Cocktail or a more casual order of Loaded Nachos. Those looking for light fare may want to try the Black Bean Chili or sample the salad choices. Four pasta choices are available for dinner, including Stuffed Ravioli and an interesting Southwest Pasta tossed with black beans, corn, red peppers, and Red Cream Sauce. Among the house favorites are the Fire-Roasted Steaks, the Bourbon and Honey Pork Chops, the Chicken Cordon Bleu, and the Tilapia à la Vandervort, topped with a delicious Cucumber Relish.
Innkeepers Mark and Molly Dullea invite guests to slow down, step back in time, and enjoy a visit to The General Denver Hotel. We certainly did.
PURKEY’S PUB STEAK
SANDWICH
2 tablespoons sliced onions
2 tablespoons butter, divided
salt and pepper to taste
garlic to taste
1 tablespoon balsamic vinaigrette
2 pieces thinly sliced sourdough bread
2 tablespoons horseradish sauce
¼ cup fresh baby spinach
4 ounces thinly sliced sirloin, grilled medium-rare
In a medium sauté pan, sauté onions in 1 tablespoon butter. Season with salt and pepper and garlic. Add balsamic vinaigrette to onions and continue to caramelize. Butter sourdough with remaining butter and grill until toasted. Spread 1 tablespoon horseradish sauce on each slice of bread. Build sandwich with spinach, onions, and sirloin. Serves 1.
DEVILED CRAB TILAPIA
8 4-ounce tilapia fillets
½ stick plus 2 tablespoons butter, melted, divided
¼ cup salt, pepper, and garlic blend
1 pound lump crabmeat
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese blend
½ cup breadcrumbs, divided
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon thyme
¼ cup diced tomatoes
¼ cup diced onion
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place fillets in a baking pan. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and garlic blend. Combine remaining melted butter, crabmeat, cheeses, ¼ cup breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, granulated garlic, thyme, tomatoes, onions, and cilantro until well blended. Top fillets with equal amounts of crab mixture. Sprinkle evenly with remaining breadcrumbs. Bake for approximately 15 minutes until fillets are flaky and white. Serves 4.
