* The only thing missing was for the waitress to have me sit on her lap before serving me! I doubt that Heston and the gang would dare to repeat this little interlude at The Duck today. It is just a little too provocative, a little too “out there” for those gastrotourists who can afford the £295 price of admission, now that the restaurant has firmly established itself as one of the grand temples of modernist cuisine. But others have since taken up the baton from Heston and his ilk, such as Dabiz Muñoz, the “bad boy” of modernist cuisine, at DiverXo, in Madrid.